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Old 05-22-2020, 02:54 PM   #941
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if you really hate cutting it with a grinder and a cut-off wheel/then try it and a sawzall then you will like the grinder and cut-off wheel better.
but oxy/acetylene is king.
as far as the chop saw the blade takes an 1/8 so leave your line/mark when you cut dont go for the center of the mark.
looking good
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Old 05-22-2020, 03:02 PM   #942
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mark it square and keep your cut on the mark cause that thin blade is only made to cut on its edge and you will not adjust course without blowing it out and possibly getting hurt.
the thicker grinding wheels or made for grinding on there face or edge but not there back side.
have fun and be safe
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Old 05-22-2020, 04:57 PM   #943
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mark it square and keep your cut on the mark cause that thin blade is only made to cut on its edge and you will not adjust course without blowing it out and possibly getting hurt.
the thicker grinding wheels or made for grinding on there face or edge but not there back side.
have fun and be safe
I actually use one of these for demo: https://www.lowes.com/pd/LENOX-Metal...ory/1000680493. Doesn't do quite as well as a zip wheel but I feel a lot safer with it than with a blade that can catch and come apart (which has happened to me twice already).
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Old 05-23-2020, 09:26 AM   #944
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8-window FE spotted in the wild

This bus has been parked in front of a truck repair place near where I live. Hasn't moved in a few years so probably not a for sale candidate. Not sure if this is really an 8-window in terms of length since four of the windows seem extra-wide (or maybe the back ones are extra-narrow). Bonus points for the "ROUTE 420" sign.

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Old 05-23-2020, 03:20 PM   #945
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milwaukee demon carbide tip sawzall blades are pretty good but they are a little spendy but nothing beats a cut-off wheel on a grinder or cut off saw especially the 9-14 inch one.
just takes practice to learn the tool and how not to use it?
they all hurt when they come apart but thats the reason for PPE and a grinder should not have a switch that locks on it should have a trigger style switch.
i have seen runaway grinders with more than the user hurt more because of no guard than anything else but most blade bind up is cause of the user trying to change course once they start a cut out of square?
start square and stay square or score your cut line all the way down before you bury the disk and you dont have to bury the disk at all it only cuts on the edge. you can work your line.
more motion for you but safer also.
then thicker metal the guy doesnt work the line and gets tired with one hand and changes to the other hand and the angle isnt the same so of course the wheel binds and blows?
once you start a cut with a cut off disc and bury the blade you are committed to that cut.
in the scoring phase is when you make a definitive mark and follow that mark or you will blow cutting wheels.
no cutting wheel ever needs to be fully buried unless of course you are trying to cut metal thicker than what the wheel can do but thats another story that doesnt usually involve skoolies.
sorry about the long post but i weld for a living and have seen to many grinder accidents?
sorry the post is long but hope it helps someone.
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Old 05-23-2020, 03:41 PM   #946
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hope you dont feel like i hyjacked your thread?
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Old 05-23-2020, 03:44 PM   #947
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hope you dont feel like i hyjacked your thread?
musigenius
Ha, I don't mind at all.

I'm beginning to wonder, though, if a majority of users here think my username is actually musicgenius (or some variant) instead of musigenesis (which is neither music nor genius).
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Old 05-23-2020, 04:30 PM   #948
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Ha, I don't mind at all.

I'm beginning to wonder, though, if a majority of users here think my username is actually musicgenius (or some variant) instead of musigenesis (which is neither music nor genius).



We just think you are crazy ... and we are afraid to ask you what it means
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Old 05-23-2020, 04:40 PM   #949
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How about MG then?
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Old 05-23-2020, 04:41 PM   #950
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We just think you are crazy ... and we are afraid to ask you what it means
It was a piece of software I wrote some years ago to do music composition - it's a combination of "music" and "genesis".
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Old 05-24-2020, 12:02 PM   #951
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I thought of your build when I saw this... Thought I should pass on. I'm thinking about buying one to try as much as I use a cut off wheel.

https://www.harborfreight.com/safety...ers-61680.html

It might makie straight cuts easier?
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Old 05-24-2020, 12:08 PM   #952
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Ha, I don't mind at all.

I'm beginning to wonder, though, if a majority of users here think my username is actually musicgenius (or some variant) instead of musigenesis (which is neither music nor genius).
Until right now I thought you were just a big Phil Collins fan.
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Old 05-24-2020, 12:11 PM   #953
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Until right now I thought you were just a big Phil Collins fan.
Are you kidding me? Peter Gabriel all the way.
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Old 05-24-2020, 07:32 PM   #954
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Tinted windows

Painted up two more of my salvaged emergency exit windows. Also use SEM self-etching primer and Rusto enamel, but this time I used the SEM primer from a rattle can which works so much better than the brush-on stuff. Also used semi-gloss black enamel instead of gloss. Really happy with the finish on these last two, they look factory unless you get up really close and see how sloppy I was with the masking tape.

Thanks for the windows, @inhof009. Sorry I had to chop them up to use them.

IMG_1411.png

IMG_1412.png

IMG_1417.png

I'm also trying an experiment with the SEM to see how well it adheres to galvanized steel. But if you ever need to paint your bare aluminum windows black - and I don't know why anyone would want to do that - I definitely recommend the SEM self-etching primer.
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Old 05-24-2020, 10:37 PM   #955
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I noticed a curious thing today working on these aluminum windows. I used my angle grinder to cut a 1/4" notch through all four corners of each window, which I'm going to use to mount them in my bulkhead wall and door. I was surprised to see no sparks coming off, which actually made it sort of difficult to figure out which way to hold the grinder so it didn't shoot flecks of aluminum into my face.

I assume this is common knowledge with anyone who's worked with aluminum, but I'd never heard of it before. It seems one explanation is that aluminum is soft so the grinding wheel doesn't generate high enough temperatures to ignite it. Another is that the bits of aluminum quickly form an outer oxide layer that prevents further burning/oxidation (same reason it doesn't rust).
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Old 05-24-2020, 11:44 PM   #956
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I noticed a curious thing today working on these aluminum windows. I used my angle grinder to cut a 1/4" notch through all four corners of each window, which I'm going to use to mount them in my bulkhead wall and door. I was surprised to see no sparks coming off, which actually made it sort of difficult to figure out which way to hold the grinder so it didn't shoot flecks of aluminum into my face.

I assume this is common knowledge with anyone who's worked with aluminum, but I'd never heard of it before. It seems one explanation is that aluminum is soft so the grinding wheel doesn't generate high enough temperatures to ignite it. Another is that the bits of aluminum quickly form an outer oxide layer that prevents further burning/oxidation (same reason it doesn't rust).
Be careful cutting aluminum with an abrasive unless it's rated for aluminum. I've always heard/been told not to cut too much aluminum with an abrasive wheel. It can ball up in the wheel and heat the disc up and the disc can fail. I've never actually researched to verify if this is true or not... And I've done exactly what you've done, but I've changed my wheel out after that...

Yes aluminum is weird with oxidation. You really learn that when you TIG weld it. If you don't clean well, by the time you burn through the oxidation layer, your puddle is formed very quickly and you must back off the pedal to avoid burn through.. fun stuff!
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Old 05-25-2020, 12:45 AM   #957
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Yeah, I've not done it, but I do know that aluminum requires a different type of grinding/cut-off wheel. It is indeed softer and melts at 1221 degrees F whereas steel melts at 2750 degrees F.
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Old 05-27-2020, 03:55 PM   #958
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Rear floor reinforcement

There was just room here with the bumper end cap off to get this 92" piece of 1.5"-3/8 angle steel in and flush with the rotten (more rotten) crossmember.

IMG_1424.png

I cut away the rotten parts of the crossmember, which didn't leave much on the ends.

IMG_1425.png

IMG_1426.png

On the inside are two 45" pieces of 2.5"-1/8 flat bar bolted through to the new angle steel on the underside. I might weld them into one piece for the hell of it.

IMG_1427.png

IMG_1428.png

IMG_1429.png

I'm going to leave these bolt ends up and screw dowels onto them for the plywood, as elsewhere. Just have to drill bigger holes for these ones.

IMG_1430.png

IMG_1431.png
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Old 05-28-2020, 12:56 AM   #959
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There was just room here with the bumper end cap off to get this 92" piece of 1.5"-3/8 angle steel in and flush with the rotten (more rotten) crossmember.


I cut away the rotten parts of the crossmember, which didn't leave much on the ends.

On the inside are two 45" pieces of 2.5"-1/8 flat bar bolted through to the new angle steel on the underside. I might weld them into one piece for the hell of it.

I'm going to leave these bolt ends up and screw dowels onto them for the plywood, as elsewhere. Just have to drill bigger holes for these ones.

I love it when synergy takes over! I like it that you were able to get the angle iron in there with relative ease. It is also good that your reinforcement is only needed at the end of the floor ... not much stress there compared with over the wheelhouses.


Do yourself a favor ... put a chunk of wood over those bolts you have sticking up ... your toes will thank you.
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Old 05-28-2020, 04:58 AM   #960
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I love it when synergy takes over! I like it that you were able to get the angle iron in there with relative ease. It is also good that your reinforcement is only needed at the end of the floor ... not much stress there compared with over the wheelhouses.


Do yourself a favor ... put a chunk of wood over those bolts you have sticking up ... your toes will thank you.
Ha ha, I kick and step on the bolts sticking up from my floor constantly, and it's about to get worse as I'm going to be welding on wood screws instead of bolts. I'm definitely going to put little bits of wood over them until I can get the floor fully painted and installed. It will be easier than trying to tape them over and getting the tape off, at least.

Whatever merits my method has, safety is not one of them.
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