I seem to remember reading articles years ago where organic gardeners sprayed soapy water as a pesticide for some bugs, but I don't remember the details. I know i would make an exit if someone was trying to drown me in soapy water.
Turning some chickens loose (no roosters -noisy neighbors) might work also. Where did those chickens come from??
The "standard" napalm for lanternflies is water with soap and vinegar (I'm not sure if any rigorous experimentation has been carried out on the formulations for these critters, but it seems to work although not instantaneously). There're just too many of them on this little tree, and even if I killed them all the tree would be full of them the next day.
The "standard" napalm for lanternflies is water with soap and vinegar (I'm not sure if any rigorous experimentation has been carried out on the formulations for these critters, but it seems to work although not instantaneously). There're just too many of them on this little tree, and even if I killed them all the tree would be full of them the next day.
You just have to keep doing it until the egg bank is used up. Think of it as doing your civic duty to defeat the invading aliens. There may also be some gov agency interested in wiping them out, not sure if I would want the gov involved though.
You are in a minor slump. It happens. Take a moment, take a beer break, bake some bread ... anything but work on the bus. You'll be back at it in no time.
Window frame, 1x3 ripped to 2.25", routed out on the back to fit over the window projections.
Clamped in place over the window so I can build the wall to fit it exactly.
Decided to run the door jamb piece all the way to the floor for aesthetics.
Routed a dado for the top jamb.
Two small pieces to connect the jamb and the window frame.
This additional piece on the left is because this corner will be free-standing (with temporary insulation over part of the window tucked behind it from the cab) so this will give it rigidity.
Wall will be faced off with 1/4" plywood, which will be flush with the window frame and door frame (I'll add trim later).
Insulated wall part will be attached with screws from the cab size, using 2" square blocks of plywood as essentially washers.
I'll pre-paint this part of the frame, then add additional small pieces and dowels for attaching to the metal wall.
I'd hate to go back and count the days, but I think this bulkhead wall in the end will have taken me more time than the wheel well floor repair. And if I'd made it out of just wood it probably would have taken a day.
Weatherstripping to seal between my window frame and the window itself. I wasn't sure how I was going to do this, but I happened to have this peel-and-stick stuff lying around and it's actually perfect.
Screwed the "frame" into place from the cab side with decking screws and 2" square pieces of wood. Really easy way to attach these walls. I had originally planned to do the welding-on-screws things on this wall like the floors, but that would have been even more difficult than the floors, I think.
Five screws into a little block of 1X was too much to ask, but I managed to take this out and get another one to work. On the other side, I'm going to make these two little blocks out of 2X.
Top piece of XPS in place. I pre-cut the notches for the additional supports ...
.. then pushed in the 3" long supports and screwed them in place from the outside of the trim and also from the cab side.
Bottom piece was a little more involved.
Have to redo this block. For some dumb reason I chose a really old, dry piece of wood to use for these block washers.
Little pieces of XPS on each side of the window. I've been cutting my XPS with a hand saw but for this wall I started using my circular saw. I was thinking it would make a really messy cut, but I have a plywood blade in it and the cuts are actually incredible smooth.
I think this is the first time this wall has been really visible in pics.
The weatherstripping/gasket stuff works really well to seal with the slightly irregular window surface.
Had to add some dowels for good measure. These are way easier to put in here than on the floor since they're just screwed into from both sides. I of course miscounted and didn't have enough dowels and wooden washers to finish the job.
Opposite side will be slightly more complicated since I have to mill a slight bevel into the jamb on that side, to allow the inner panel on the door to swing out without catching.
Home Depot screwed me for the day by giving me low-grade 1x3s which I can't use for my window and door trim, so I decided to delete my rear escape hatch since I have a few days here with no rain predicted. I would have left it except it's only a foot from where I'll be putting in a big vent fan for the shower and it's right above the 3" step-up from the kitchen floor to the back section, so if I put an insulated cover over it I would probably have been hitting it with my head.
Up close on the lantern fly poop.
I thought about putting a piece of Lexan over the hole, but I want to simplify the work I have to do on the ceiling, and not having to frame out around a skylight makes it easier. So just a painted piece of 16 ga. will do.
You can always do the Lexan skylight thing later on if you want.
Heh, I didn't get the patch on yesterday so I taped some plastic sheeting over the hole. When I went in the back with this impromptu skylight, I was like "this is really nice". But it will be less nice once I have the back built out; it will be so crammed there wouldn't be anywhere to sit under that skylight - except the toilet.
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