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08-30-2020, 02:47 PM
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#1301
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 3,856
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Thomas Built Bus
Chassis: Freightliner FS65
Engine: Caterpillar 3126E Diesel
Rated Cap: 71 Passenger- 30,000 lbs.
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You are still in prototype/alpha stage.
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08-30-2020, 03:46 PM
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#1302
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 18,846
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
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I think all of us are in some stage of alpha / prototype all the time with our builds
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08-31-2020, 09:38 PM
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#1303
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 7,000
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: CE 300
Engine: DT466e
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
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Spent the weekend building a shelter for my house generator, back on the bulkhead door today.
Hacksaw blade is pretty accurate with this stuff. Not sure why I thought a wood saw was the way to go.
XPS carved out to fit around the latch mechanism. I was thinking how fun it would be to have: 1) a lidar-equipped iPad to 3D map my door, and 2) a CNC router. Sure would make this task easier.
Some night painting so I can be done with this thing tomorrow.
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08-31-2020, 10:34 PM
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#1304
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 3,856
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Thomas Built Bus
Chassis: Freightliner FS65
Engine: Caterpillar 3126E Diesel
Rated Cap: 71 Passenger- 30,000 lbs.
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There always seems to be a point in a project where you just gotta press forward until the wee hours to pass a milestone. I am glad you did it for the barrier.
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08-31-2020, 10:40 PM
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#1305
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 7,000
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: CE 300
Engine: DT466e
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Native
There always seems to be a point in a project where you just gotta press forward until the wee hours to pass a milestone. I am glad you did it for the barrier.
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I need to start forcing myself to work some full days before the weather gets cold again, like 5 am to midnight kinda stuff. I find it too easy to let minor logistics stuff like letting paint on something dry allow me to knock off for the day, when there's always other stuff I could be doing while the paint dries. I should really have 2 or 3 projects going at the same time so I always have something to work on.
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08-31-2020, 11:19 PM
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#1306
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 3,856
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Thomas Built Bus
Chassis: Freightliner FS65
Engine: Caterpillar 3126E Diesel
Rated Cap: 71 Passenger- 30,000 lbs.
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Wow, with all the progress you make I thought you were already doing that! Watch out thread ... you are about to explode with progress!
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09-01-2020, 04:46 PM
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#1307
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 7,000
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: CE 300
Engine: DT466e
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
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09-01-2020, 11:32 PM
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#1308
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 3,856
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Thomas Built Bus
Chassis: Freightliner FS65
Engine: Caterpillar 3126E Diesel
Rated Cap: 71 Passenger- 30,000 lbs.
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I'll say here that you bulkhead is looking GREAT!
Do you plan on painting or covering the driver compartment side of the bulkhead?
[I know you have painted the expanded steel ... ]
Now that you have a full wall up with a door, has your impression of the back of the buss changed?
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09-02-2020, 05:43 AM
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#1309
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 7,000
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: CE 300
Engine: DT466e
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Native
I'll say here that you bulkhead is looking GREAT!
Do you plan on painting or covering the driver compartment side of the bulkhead?
[I know you have painted the expanded steel ... ]
Now that you have a full wall up with a door, has your impression of the back of the buss changed?
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Thanks!
The wall doesn't look great from the cab side, that's for sure. I was thinking I might cut squares of 1/4" plywood to at least cover the door (screwed into the little blocks of wood holding the inner panels in place), but I might not be able to depending on where I have to put the screen door tensioner rod. I was originally going to paint the cab side of the foam board, but that was dropped into the "too big of a pita" category. I kind of like the contrast of the safety blue on the metal and the light turquoise (?) of the foam board. If I'd used the pink foamular I would have had to paint it for sure.
The back seems like much more of a potential normal living space now that the cab is cut off. I keep planning to lay out all my stuff (furniture, appliances etc.) in the bus, not because I'm worried about the layout but because I just want to see everything in one place. But that would be such a massive physical effort for me as one person; fortunately I keep talking myself out of it.
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09-02-2020, 07:48 AM
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#1310
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Bus Nut
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Wamego Ks
Posts: 617
Year: 2007
Chassis: Collins
Engine: 6.6L LMM Duramax
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Door and bulkhead are looking great and we'll insulated!!!
Are you still needing windows? I have windows I took out of my 2007 chevy collins. Im going to use a few for a future project, but if they are right size you can have 2-3-4 whatever you want. Not sure what shipping from Kansas would cost tho! I can measure and let you know.?
__________________
2007 Collins (Chevy Express 3500)
LMM Duramax Diesel with newly rebuilt 4L85E Transmission!
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09-02-2020, 07:54 AM
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#1311
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 7,000
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: CE 300
Engine: DT466e
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frochevy
Door and bulkhead are looking great and we'll insulated!!!
Are you still needing windows? I have windows I took out of my 2007 chevy collins. Im going to use a few for a future project, but if they are right size you can have 2-3-4 whatever you want. Not sure what shipping from Kansas would cost tho! I can measure and let you know.?
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That's a very kind offer. I wonder if a collins would use the same type of window? I'll measure mine today and get the exact size (and some detailed pics).
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09-02-2020, 08:01 AM
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#1312
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Bus Nut
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Wamego Ks
Posts: 617
Year: 2007
Chassis: Collins
Engine: 6.6L LMM Duramax
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Quote:
Originally Posted by musigenesis
That's a very kind offer. I wonder if a collins would use the same type of window? I'll measure mine today and get the exact size (and some detailed pics).
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Sounds good. Mine are black frame with a dark tint fyi... Let me know size and I'll measure mine. Thanks
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09-02-2020, 10:35 AM
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#1313
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: So Cal
Posts: 3,231
Year: 1935
Coachwork: Superior
Chassis: Chevy
Engine: 317 ci/tid / Isuzu
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Can't say I blame you for not wanting to lug everything into the bus. A quick and dirty alternative is to do your proposed layout with masking tape on the floor (or a felt pen) that way you will be able to tell if stuff and you really fit. Stand back and look it over. Will you be able to fully open cupboard doors? Will it be possible to make up the bed? Is the bathroom so small that you'll have to stand up to poop? Will the necessary plumbing easily line up with the structure of the floor etc.
Jack
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09-02-2020, 05:03 PM
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#1314
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 7,000
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: CE 300
Engine: DT466e
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
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Snap of the edge of the window where the little rubber foot attaches.
Making an L-shaped replacement that will keep the window up a little higher and also not press down right in the corner.
It fits and works, although I'm sure it's going to fall out.
Re-sealed the leaky front window. Hopefully this time it will stick without the rubber foot pressing down on it.
Put in all the remaining dowels for bulkhead door.
Somehow I made a bunch of them too thick. I tried sanding them down but these are oak so it's hopeless.
Had to pull a bunch, trim them and reinstall.
Test-fitting of the screen door tensioner. It works and pulls the door straight, but I have to figure out how to attach these. I can't weld them on since I've already installed the insulation on the door. I guess I could just do it and then replace the melted-out bits of foam.
So annoying, I knew the tensioner wouldn't show up in time so I went ahead with the door insulation. Then the tensioner arrived before final install and I could have welded it on then, but I was on autopilot by that point.
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09-02-2020, 05:31 PM
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#1315
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Golden Valley AZ
Posts: 1,036
Year: 1993
Chassis: ThomasBuilt 30'
Engine: need someone to tell me
Rated Cap: me + 1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by musigenesis
Snap of the edge of the window where the little rubber foot attaches.
Attachment 48615
Making an L-shaped replacement that will keep the window up a little higher and also not press down right in the corner.
Attachment 48617
It fits and works, although I'm sure it's going to fall out.
Attachment 48618
Attachment 48619
Re-sealed the leaky front window. Hopefully this time it will stick without the rubber foot pressing down on it.
Attachment 48620
Attachment 48621
Put in all the remaining dowels for bulkhead door.
Attachment 48616
Somehow I made a bunch of them too thick. I tried sanding them down but these are oak so it's hopeless.
Attachment 48622
Had to pull a bunch, trim them and reinstall.
Attachment 48623
Test-fitting of the screen door tensioner. It works and pulls the door straight, but I have to figure out how to attach these. I can't weld them on since I've already installed the insulation on the door. I guess I could just do it and then replace the melted-out bits of foam.
So annoying, I knew the tensioner wouldn't show up in time so I went ahead with the door insulation. Then the tensioner arrived before final install and I could have welded it on then, but I was on autopilot by that point.
Attachment 48624
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Screws/bolts/epoxy?
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09-02-2020, 05:51 PM
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#1316
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 7,000
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: CE 300
Engine: DT466e
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kidharris
Screws/bolts/epoxy?
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I don't think epoxy would hold, but maybe I'm underestimating epoxy. Screws and bolts would be tricky because of the oddness of where the tension rods have to be attached. I don't want this thing crossing the window and being visible from the inside, so the only place it go is on the bottom and the geometry of the door is just weird at both attachment points. It just annoys me that I could have easily welded this on when I first built the door a couple of months ago and knew then that it wasn't squared up.
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09-05-2020, 07:59 AM
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#1317
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Bus Nut
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Wamego Ks
Posts: 617
Year: 2007
Chassis: Collins
Engine: 6.6L LMM Duramax
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Can you purchase little brackets or make brackets that bolt to door and tensioner goes through?
The windows I have are as follows. 28 3/4" wide by 28 3/8" tall. Let me know if they will work for you.
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09-05-2020, 09:27 AM
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#1318
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Communist State of New Jersey
Posts: 964
Year: 2004
Coachwork: IC
Chassis: CE200
Engine: T444e
Rated Cap: 27,500
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Regarding the tensioner, how about if you cut out a piece of the insulation in the area to be welded with a thin bladed implement, do the required welding then glue the now "custom cut patch" back in?
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09-05-2020, 12:02 PM
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#1319
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,482
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frochevy
Can you purchase little brackets or make brackets that bolt to door and tensioner goes through?
The windows I have are as follows. 28 3/4" wide by 28 3/8" tall. Let me know if they will work for you.
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Optics I'm sure, but that top pic doesn't look like a "square" window. Looks much taller than wide.
__________________
I Thank God That He Gifted Me with Common Sense
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09-05-2020, 01:04 PM
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#1320
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Bus Nut
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Wamego Ks
Posts: 617
Year: 2007
Chassis: Collins
Engine: 6.6L LMM Duramax
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o1marc
Optics I'm sure, but that top pic doesn't look like a "square" window. Looks much taller than wide.
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Yep you're right. It's probably the way I took the picture. Lol but the tape measure doesn't lie...
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