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Old 10-12-2020, 03:38 PM   #1381
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Bus back from the shop, finally

Lots of baking in the meantime.

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Kitty.

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My new full exhaust. Shiny.

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I should have asked for my 4' section of flex pipe back, since it was nearly new.

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Back to work on my rear wall.

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I completely forgot what I was going to do next on this. It's been two weeks, I think. (Yikes, more like three - I lost some prime converting weather to this)

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So, new exhaust, new front brakes, new high-pressure oil pump and assorted auxiliaries, all new fluids and filters. Bus is working great, wallet is making strange gurgling sounds.

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Old 10-12-2020, 04:56 PM   #1382
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Originally Posted by musigenesis View Post
Lots of baking in the meantime.

Attachment 49863

Kitty.

Attachment 49864

My new full exhaust. Shiny.

Attachment 49865

Attachment 49866

I should have asked for my 4' section of flex pipe back, since it was nearly new.

Attachment 49867

Back to work on my rear wall.

Attachment 49868

Attachment 49869

I completely forgot what I was going to do next on this. It's been two weeks, I think. (Yikes, more like three - I lost some prime converting weather to this)

Attachment 49870

So, new exhaust, new front brakes, new high-pressure oil pump and assorted auxiliaries, all new fluids and filters. Bus is working great, wallet is making strange gurgling sounds.
One of the first things I did was perform an initial service on my bus. I sank over $1000 into that with a big chunk of it going to fluids; 4 gallons of engine oil, 4 gallons of diff. fluid, 3 gallons of tranny fluid and 3 gallons of coolant.

It turns out there was a dealership of high repute within a couple miles of where I was working on the bus so I just bought International parts. We'll see what's out there besides International parts next time. I replaced all three of the hot side aftercooler connectors and one was almost $100, the cheapest of the three was over $30.
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Old 10-13-2020, 04:54 PM   #1383
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Rerouted the passenger side wiring behind the new framing and up along the top.

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Priming and sealing the rear door sill.

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Starting on the first rear window frame.

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A strange coincidence that the radius of a school bus window exactly matches that of a corn hole.
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Old 10-13-2020, 05:05 PM   #1384
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Urg, got a quote from the mechanic to fix my ABS light: $6000. Says I need new harnesses for both the left and right wheels, and need the ABS unit reprogrammed. I don't think he's scamming me because he also recommended not doing it and I'm not going to. I will give it the ol' electrical tape fix.

I suspect an ABS light would cause me to fail a safety inspection, which will be interesting in the future.
It well could. It will definitely fail a DOT inspection, which you can argue is not required if titled as an RV. Depends on how anal the inspector in question is.

A suggestion -- Not sure if it would really apply here, but if your bus is over 25 years old, it is considered an antique if not being used commercially. Antique registrations typically are not required to pass a full inspection annually in most states - they only need be roadworthy.

Of course, this comes with some caveats -- limited usage, for one. But I doubt many members here are traveling more than once a month.
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Old 10-13-2020, 11:36 PM   #1385
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Nice job on the radiused window frames!
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Old 10-14-2020, 05:58 AM   #1386
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Nice job on the radiused window frames!
Thanks! I'm very happy there are only two of these windows in the bus.
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Old 10-14-2020, 09:34 PM   #1387
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Every time I start on a woodworking project now, I have to glop on a thick layer of wood filler to remind myself that you can't do that. I had to scrape all of this off eventually because it never solidified.

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The stuff with the hardener that you have to mix is always what I need, I just keep hoping there's an easier way.

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Small gap needs to be filled with XPS. After much struggling with trying to cut XPS foam accurately, I realize that table saw + miter saw is the way.

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Some slight imperfections in the corners but not terrible. I'm spending way too much time on these as it is.

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Old 10-14-2020, 09:37 PM   #1388
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It well could. It will definitely fail a DOT inspection, which you can argue is not required if titled as an RV. Depends on how anal the inspector in question is.
I assume they check for bits of electrical tape on the dash?

A serious question: if I removed my dashboard entirely and replaced it with a tablet, would I fail a DOT inspection? I assume a functioning physical dashboard is a requirement.
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Old 10-14-2020, 10:50 PM   #1389
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That is an interesting question. I do not have an answer. Logic says the function is what is needed, but what bureaucracy is logical?
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Old 10-14-2020, 11:04 PM   #1390
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DOT inspections do not apply when titled and registered as RV. Which is why I mentioned it.
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Old 10-15-2020, 10:20 AM   #1391
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Regardless of the wood filler, your work looks amazing! As I get older, I lose patience and have to pay someone to do the finer things!
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Old 10-15-2020, 04:59 PM   #1392
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Old 10-15-2020, 05:01 PM   #1393
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Regardless of the wood filler, your work looks amazing! As I get older, I lose patience and have to pay someone to do the finer things!
Thank you! All my money lately has been going to the mechanic, so I have to do the finer things myself.
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Old 10-15-2020, 07:11 PM   #1394
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I assume they check for bits of electrical tape on the dash?

A serious question: if I removed my dashboard entirely and replaced it with a tablet, would I fail a DOT inspection? I assume a functioning physical dashboard is a requirement.
A removable tablet would likely fail. A permanently mounted and powered electronic dash does exist in some commercial vehicles and should then reasonably be accepted.
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Old 10-16-2020, 03:15 AM   #1395
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Bravo! Very fine work indeed!


Your use of successively smaller pieces of XPS made me think ... are you planning on removable panels for access to your lights from inside?
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Old 10-16-2020, 06:57 AM   #1396
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Bravo! Very fine work indeed!


Your use of successively smaller pieces of XPS made me think ... are you planning on removable panels for access to your lights from inside?
Thanks! I'm still thinking that "slow" is the best descriptor of this process.

I originally had plans for some elaborate removable panels/hatch covers to allow access to the lights, but they were getting pretty ridiculously overcomplicated. My paneling is going to be screwed into place, so to access the lights I would just have to unscrew it and remove the XPS. Hopefully that will never be necessary - if I just need to replace a light I can do it from the outside.

The successively smaller pieces was because I couldn't find a single piece of scrap XPS big enough.
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Old 10-16-2020, 11:15 AM   #1397
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Thanks! I'm still thinking that "slow" is the best descriptor of this process.
Looks great. I can't help but think of people who think- "I'll buy a cheap bus and make my own camper- It'll be easy". There is no easy in this process!
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Old 10-16-2020, 03:10 PM   #1398
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My bus has been sitting (perfectly level) at my house all day in a hard rain, and none of the windows are leaking, except a new leak at one or both of the rear-most driver's side windows. I think I can see from the outside sealant what the problem is. I need to be able to not just find and stop leaks but also to be able to identify a potential leak just from the outside, since once my walls go up I probably won't see any leaks until my wall starts rotting.

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Starting on the other side of my rear wall. Everything is so much easier the second time around.

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Old 10-18-2020, 11:23 AM   #1399
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Old 10-18-2020, 09:09 PM   #1400
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Did some more chopping on my extra hatch. I have my 2'x2'x1/4" piece of Lexan; my plan is to rivet the Lexan to the top of this hatch, then clamp it down over a frame of some sort and use a jack to push up a bowl or something in the middle while heating the Lexan with a heat gun, to give it a convex shape on top.

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Not sure how I'm going to handle the gap between the top and bottom parts of this hatch, exposed when I cut out the middle section here. I'll probably try to soldering-iron-weld plastic strips over it. Or maybe some kind of wood trim inserts.

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