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10-18-2020, 10:18 PM
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#1401
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 3,856
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Thomas Built Bus
Chassis: Freightliner FS65
Engine: Caterpillar 3126E Diesel
Rated Cap: 71 Passenger- 30,000 lbs.
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Ain't it interesting how new challenges pop up as you repurpose old parts?
I like te idea of plastic-weld of the edge strips. I know cabinet shops do this regularly when installing new countertops.
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10-19-2020, 05:42 PM
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#1402
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 6,995
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: CE 300
Engine: DT466e
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
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10-19-2020, 11:01 PM
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#1403
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 6,995
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: CE 300
Engine: DT466e
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
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Just found one of these for $90: https://www.etrailer.com/RV-Vents-an...00A04301K.html. It was "used, like new" from Amazon and is in damaged packaging. I'm not really ready to use this yet (the shower is a long ways off) but since I'm about to insulate and panel the ceiling, I need to install the fan first so this is going to be the one.
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10-19-2020, 11:19 PM
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#1404
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Sandpoint, ID
Posts: 533
Year: 2003
Coachwork: Girardin Microbird MB-IV
Chassis: Ford E450
Engine: 7.3 Diesel
Rated Cap: 25
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Lucky you! I ordered a Maxxfan a month ago and it's still on backorder.
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10-20-2020, 03:14 PM
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#1405
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 6,995
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: CE 300
Engine: DT466e
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
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10-20-2020, 11:30 PM
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#1406
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 3,856
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Thomas Built Bus
Chassis: Freightliner FS65
Engine: Caterpillar 3126E Diesel
Rated Cap: 71 Passenger- 30,000 lbs.
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Are you planning to insulate the door as well?
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10-21-2020, 05:18 AM
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#1407
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 6,995
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: CE 300
Engine: DT466e
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Native
Are you planning to insulate the door as well?
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Yes, in a removable sort of way, although I'm not exactly sure how yet. Either a couple of XPS foam panels that cover the door, or maybe a large sort of curtain thing made out of rock wool or fiberglass. My bed frame is going to project in front of the door by a few inches, so I have to install it first before I can figure out how to insulate the door.
If I could do it all over again, I would probably attach insulation to the back door itself, similar to how I did the bulkhead wall door.
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10-21-2020, 11:49 AM
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#1408
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Brazoria County, Texas
Posts: 819
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International
Engine: T444E
Rated Cap: 32 Passenger
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I think you’re on the right track. I’ve struggled myself with the rear door setup. Especially banging my head on the frame.
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10-21-2020, 02:40 PM
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#1409
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 3,856
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Thomas Built Bus
Chassis: Freightliner FS65
Engine: Caterpillar 3126E Diesel
Rated Cap: 71 Passenger- 30,000 lbs.
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With the way the door swings out, I am thinking it is difficult to get a good insulation seal unless you have an insert as you are planning. You might also consider a second insert for the window for both privacy and insulation value.
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10-21-2020, 03:36 PM
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#1410
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 6,995
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: CE 300
Engine: DT466e
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
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Demo complete ... after a mere 21 months
Took my pancake compressor and my air hammer over to the bus and knocked out all the remaining ceiling rivets and removed the last scraps of my ceiling panels. My pancake compressor does indeed suck for this, and I was only able to knock out about 4 or 5 rivets at a time then I had to wait for a minute or so for the compressor to build the pressure back up. But even with that, not too bad - took about two and half hours for four full ribs worth of rivets. With a decent compressor I think an entire ceiling might take an hour.
Attempting to cut out my ceiling panels when I first got the bus was my biggest mistake so far. Lots of wasted effort and all my windows have little flecks of steel embedded in them since I didn't think to cover them as I was cutting the panels; they're not really noticeable but it still sucks.
Now I just have to figure out how I'm going to attach my furring strips to the hat channel, going to do some experiments tomorrow. I'm thinking about strips of 16 ga. steel screwed into the back of the furring strip and then plug-welded to the rib. Self-tapping screws would probably be simpler, but I'm getting to the point with arthritis where excessive amounts of vibration from drilling (especially into steel) causes me a lot of hand pain, so the welding approach would be easier and less painful.
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10-21-2020, 04:00 PM
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#1411
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 6,995
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: CE 300
Engine: DT466e
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Native
With the way the door swings out, I am thinking it is difficult to get a good insulation seal unless you have an insert as you are planning. You might also consider a second insert for the window for both privacy and insulation value.
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You mean an insert within the insert? Insertception?
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10-21-2020, 05:12 PM
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#1412
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Mesa, AZ
Posts: 787
Year: 1993
Coachwork: 44' Newell Coach
Engine: 8v92T Detroit
Rated Cap: 2 adults and two pigeons
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Nice ob on the ceiling removal! Yes, once you get the hang of popping them rivets off, you'll find out it is all not that bad. I had my ceiling completely taken down in 2 hours working on my own.
__________________
--Simon
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10-21-2020, 09:54 PM
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#1413
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 6,995
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: CE 300
Engine: DT466e
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
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Quote:
Originally Posted by musigenesis
Just found one of these for $90: https://www.etrailer.com/RV-Vents-an...00A04301K.html. It was "used, like new" from Amazon and is in damaged packaging. I'm not really ready to use this yet (the shower is a long ways off) but since I'm about to insulate and panel the ceiling, I need to install the fan first so this is going to be the one.
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Hmm, I just noticed that the product info says this:
Quote:
Note: Not for use above tubs, showers, or range cooking surfaces.
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I was planning on installing this Maxxair fan vent above my shower, naturally. Since it fits a standard 14"x14" opening, I suppose I could just install it and wait for it to die from the excessive humidity, and then replace it.
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10-22-2020, 12:21 AM
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#1414
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 3,856
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Thomas Built Bus
Chassis: Freightliner FS65
Engine: Caterpillar 3126E Diesel
Rated Cap: 71 Passenger- 30,000 lbs.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by musigenesis
You mean an insert within the insert? Insertception?
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LOL ... well, more like an insert (foam insulation block) for the bottom portion andone for the window. The bottom insert would be more like the walls in decor stye and the window insert anything you like, even a painting on the inside ... or a painting of a fireplace!
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x - XPS foam (covered)
= - Top/bottom edge of foam insert "housing"
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10-22-2020, 01:09 AM
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#1415
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Golden Valley AZ
Posts: 1,036
Year: 1993
Chassis: ThomasBuilt 30'
Engine: need someone to tell me
Rated Cap: me + 1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by musigenesis
Hmm, I just noticed that the product info says this:
I was planning on installing this Maxxair fan vent above my shower, naturally. Since it fits a standard 14"x14" opening, I suppose I could just install it and wait for it to die from the excessive humidity, and then replace it.
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Try not to use it when you shower
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10-22-2020, 08:39 AM
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#1416
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 6,995
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: CE 300
Engine: DT466e
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Native
LOL ... well, more like an insert (foam insulation block) for the bottom portion andone for the window. The bottom insert would be more like the walls in decor stye and the window insert anything you like, even a painting on the inside ... or a painting of a fireplace!
Code:
==============================
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==============================
x - XPS foam (covered)
= - Top/bottom edge of foam insert "housing"
|| - Side edge of foam insert "housing"
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This is the finest ASCII blueprint I have ever seen! And it's actually what I had in mind. The bottom half will be semi-permanent and blend with the wall as best I can manage it (but still be easily removable for loading stuff in through the back), and then the top half will be more temporary and only go up in really cold weather.
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10-22-2020, 09:12 AM
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#1417
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 6,995
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: CE 300
Engine: DT466e
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
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Transmission question
I've always felt that my transmission (a 2000-series) seems to upshift pretty early, although I've never counted the gear changes. Now that I have my Bluefire plugged in I can see exactly when they change. It seems that my transmission shifts into 5th gear (its top gear) at 30 mph. Is this normal? Is the shift point dependent on how far the gas pedal is pressed? Is this something that's tweakable in some way?
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10-22-2020, 09:14 AM
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#1418
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 6,995
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: CE 300
Engine: DT466e
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kidharris
Try not to use it when you shower
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Well, the whole point of it is to vent my shower while I'm showering.
I'm at least glad I only bought one, since I was considering getting another one to use as a range vent.
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10-22-2020, 01:28 PM
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#1419
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Golden Valley AZ
Posts: 1,036
Year: 1993
Chassis: ThomasBuilt 30'
Engine: need someone to tell me
Rated Cap: me + 1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by musigenesis
Well, the whole point of it is to vent my shower while I'm showering.
I'm at least glad I only bought one, since I was considering getting another one to use as a range vent.
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Just leave it open, but don't turn it on.
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10-22-2020, 05:44 PM
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#1420
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 6,995
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: CE 300
Engine: DT466e
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
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Scrap piece to figure out the bevel angle of the two front-to-back ceiling beams.
I had a remarkably difficult time cutting these two pieces. My table saw can only cut pieces of 20" or less and these were slightly wider. I ended up having to do everything with a circular saw, including the bevels, but it worked out fine.
More violence and anger, and it's in.
Made a template for the pieces that will go above each window post, so I'm going to need 22 of these altogether. I made this with a hand saw and a flap disc; fortunately my brother has a band saw I can use for the remainder.
I'm thinking I will attach these by screwing strips of sheet into the back, then bending these strips against the sides of the ribs and plug-welding them. Maybe not, though, now that I realize how easy these Teks screws go into the hat channel.
Built a sort of template with a 4' wide strip of the underlayment I'm going to use for the ceiling, with furring strips screwed on every 16".
This lets me figure out exactly where the furring strips need to be attached.
These things are so great I can't believe it. They go into the hat channel so easily and they seem to hold quite firmly. The hell with thermal bridging, I love them, so much easier than what I had in mind originally.
Measured out a cross-beam that I can use with a square to get the centerline on the ceiling. So simple, I really should have used this for my bulkhead wall.
First two furring strips up. I have 10 gaps-between-ribs to cover in my living space, and an 8' piece of plywood will cover three of them, so I'm putting the single gap in the back and starting on that so I can figure out what I'm doing. I'm going to break the furring strips along with the plywood, so that they'll expand and contract together. I'll add a thin strip of trim over each of the seams.
Tiny progress.
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