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03-12-2021, 01:45 PM
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#1781
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Brazoria County, Texas
Posts: 819
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International
Engine: T444E
Rated Cap: 32 Passenger
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You are making GREAT progress Musigenesis. Keep on keepin on !!!
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03-12-2021, 04:10 PM
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#1782
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 6,995
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: CE 300
Engine: DT466e
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
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03-15-2021, 06:33 PM
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#1783
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 6,995
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: CE 300
Engine: DT466e
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
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I had the weekend to marinate my idea about the oven collar and decided to scrap it. Too much extra structure would be needed to deal with the extra structure I added.
Starting over. The oven is anchored at the top with two screws in each corner (for 8 total) that go through little bumps in the side that keep the oven spaced from whatever it's screwed into; the oven has no other fixed attachment of any kind. It rests on four projections pressed down from the bottom panel and there are two other pressed-out bumps at the bottom front that keep the oven spaced from the sides. So I'm trying to do the bare minimum structure that will support just those bumps, since the oven is not meant to touch anywhere else anyway.
Magically mirror-duplicated.
Testing the position. This left edge needs to be in line with the raised floor edge since my hinged countertop will be flush against it.
I need to raise the level on the sink framing that the butcher block will rest on by 1" to bring it to the same height as the hinged countertop (I want to keep them flush for esthetics). Conveniently I can also use these raisers to tie in this side's oven support.
This space underneath will be 7" high and deep enough for my pizza paddles etc. Not sure if I'm going to make this a slide-out drawer or just have a hinged cover that opens downward.
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03-16-2021, 04:40 PM
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#1784
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 6,995
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: CE 300
Engine: DT466e
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
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To get my 10" tall sink to 40" from the dropped floor, I built the base at 30". I want the butcher block here to be at the same height as the hinged countertop left of the stove (which will be at 30.25" from the un-dropped part of the floor), so I needed to go up 1.25". Conveniently, this gave me an easy way to tie the right oven support to the sink base.
Making sure the oven still fits.
Not totally sure how I'm going to attach the butcher block here without screwing down from above, as the space is kind of tight underneath. I need to order a drill extender.
Framing for the hinged countertop/table. This will be beefed up a bit.
Since this plus the left-side support for the oven are a separate framed unit, if I ever get a wider oven I'll be able to unscrew the unit and move it left as far as necessary. If I get a taller one, I can move the supports at the bottom down.
Testing out the piece of butcher block. Going to cut it down the middle and hinge it, with a foot-operated latch to keep it in the down position.
Still planning a cable to the ceiling to hold it level. I've never really liked the feel of those sliding/pullout support underbracket things like are often used on something like this, just too sloppy a feel, and this material is particularly heavy. If I'm going to use this for stuff like dough-making, it needs to be very firm.
Anybody have good alternatives?
Once again a cabinet space has come out a lot larger than I was anticipating. I'm going to make this basically open, with two stainless-steel basket-type shelves for storing kitchen utensils and pots and whatnot, accessible from either front or side, so I can get at stuff without raising the hinged part, if necessary.
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03-17-2021, 07:12 AM
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#1785
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 6,995
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: CE 300
Engine: DT466e
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
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Had a couple of ideas last night. One is for this cabinet under the table/countertop here. It's difficult to sit at a table or countertop if there isn't room underneath for your legs, so I'm thinking that instead of building fixed shelves here, I'll build a rolling cart that just fits into the space. I'll still use it for storage but roll it out if anybody needs to sit there.
Related to that, I was originally going to put my diesel air heater at the base of this cabinet, but then I decided to put it under my couch. I'm wondering if it's possible to mount the diesel heater on a little cart with flexible hoses to fixed holes in the floor, making it possible to move it around a bit.
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03-17-2021, 04:52 PM
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#1786
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 6,995
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: CE 300
Engine: DT466e
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
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03-19-2021, 04:39 PM
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#1787
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 6,995
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: CE 300
Engine: DT466e
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
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Chaise deconstruction
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03-19-2021, 07:17 PM
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#1788
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Sandpoint, ID
Posts: 533
Year: 2003
Coachwork: Girardin Microbird MB-IV
Chassis: Ford E450
Engine: 7.3 Diesel
Rated Cap: 25
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The things you never imagine yourself doing when you decide to convert a bus!
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03-19-2021, 08:02 PM
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#1789
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 6,995
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: CE 300
Engine: DT466e
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
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Quote:
Originally Posted by peakbus
The things you never imagine yourself doing when you decide to convert a bus!
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Ha ha, actually I always figured some poor couch was going to pay the price.
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03-20-2021, 08:57 PM
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#1790
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 6,995
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: CE 300
Engine: DT466e
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
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Tore apart the other piece of my chaise today. I got a nice large chunk of the fabric from the back, which was all a single piece wrapped around the corner.
I was going to disconnect the clips holding these springs to the wood and reattach them to new framing, but I think that will not be so easy after looking at them more closely. I'm going to try to keep the two pieces of wood the springs are currently attached to, and incorporate them into the new frame.
Not going to use this piece of OSB, but keeping it to remind me what the original angle was. For simplicity, I should just make these angled back pieces out of plywood and paint it, but I'm going to at least attempt to pad them and wrap them in the gray fabric.
I'm excited to have a go at rebuilding this thing.
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03-22-2021, 07:16 PM
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#1791
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 6,995
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: CE 300
Engine: DT466e
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
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More chaise modding in today's lovely weather.
I should have removed these two pieces and the strips of fabric, but I thought they might play a role in stretching these springs out, since I'm pretty sure that's why they were there in the first place.
Got the springs and the pieces of wood they're clipped to separated. Just a few more whacks with the sledge did it. Staples are just the saddest and most useless member of the fastener genus.
L-frame piece ripped out of a 2x4. My 2x4s are such absolute garbage I could barely cut this piece because of the table saw getting pinched.
My hard maple blanks showed up. I took a guess that these would match my butcher block countertop material and they do, perfectly. I'm going to use them to build my backsplashes for the counters and the trim around the oven.
Back to the chaise.
Still wasn't sure how I was going to be able to stretch the springs, but I finished off the frame. Not shown here are a number of failed attempts to get enough leverage, some of which involved 2x4s snapping back at my face. These springs aren't garage door springs but they ain't playin'.
Finally managed it by screwing these two temporary strips down over the springs to flatten them, then I could wedge the disconnected end piece with the hooks into place and re-attach it to the frame. That is when I realized that the strips of fabric must have originally been used to do the same thing and flatten the springs, then they loosened the strips after the springs were secured in place.
The upright piece I temporarily screwed on so I could keep the end piece oriented correctly against the tension while I was screwing it back in place.
Squared the frame off and braced the corners.
Removed the spring-compressing strips.
Re-stapled the original foam pad.
Re-stapled the edge padding.
Realized the front piece wasn't long enough to wrap around the 2x4 base, so I was going to have to reinstall the little decorative front strip.
I probably should have replaced the original paper backing strip for this (just amazing the cheapness that goes into making this kind of thing) but too lazy.
Looks a lot better than I thought it would.
Wrapped around the underside and stapled.
I'm going to keep the labels, of course.
Tried out the cushion. This piece had an extra bit of foam on these corners that I decided not to put back on the new frame, and it's made the corners a little droopy and loose in the overlapped part, but not too bad. I will probably add hooks for the two ottomans that will go at the end of this, and I'll use that hardware to draw in the fabric here.
I was surprised at how much difference those springs make over having the cushions on a hard surface like plywood. Hopefully worth nearly breaking my face.
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03-22-2021, 08:59 PM
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#1792
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: E Central Tejas
Posts: 2,094
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: IH 3800, 8 window
Engine: T444E w/ Spicer 5-speed MT
Rated Cap: I prefer broad-brims hats
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"Staples are just the saddest and most useless member of the fastener genus."
ROFLMAO
But then...
"Re-stapled the original foam pad (& edge padding)..." [emoji2962]
__________________
Those who say that it cannot be done should not interrupt the people doing it.
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03-22-2021, 09:07 PM
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#1793
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 6,995
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: CE 300
Engine: DT466e
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HazMatt
"Staples are just the saddest and most useless member of the fastener genus."
ROFLMAO
But then...
"Re-stapled the original foam pad (& edge padding)..." [emoji2962]
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Ha ha, I guess they're good for some things. Just maybe not for holding together the framing of your furniture (or your mobile home).
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03-23-2021, 04:53 PM
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#1794
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 6,995
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: CE 300
Engine: DT466e
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
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Couch, Day X
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03-25-2021, 06:26 PM
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#1795
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 6,995
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: CE 300
Engine: DT466e
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
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03-25-2021, 07:47 PM
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#1796
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 1,222
Year: 1999
Coachwork: BlueBird
Chassis: TC1000 HandyBus
Engine: 5.9L 24V-L6 Cummins ISB
Rated Cap: 26 foot
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Quote:
Originally Posted by musigenesis
This little broken bit of sheet metal in the door of my Z3 just cost me $800 and a three-hour round trip into the Poconos, and I now have a new door with a big scratch in it that I'm going to have to Bondo up. Just so I can have a window that goes up and down.
Attachment 55581
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BMW Z3?
They are known for lousy "window regulators" (and a lot more, unfortunately, when they get older. Watch the plastic stuff... Sporty as hell when new, though). These units make the window go up and down, and guide it as it moves, and are riveted to the the door. Drill out the rivets and you can get (could have gotten) a new "window regulator" (I find them for a better price on eBay). You can rivet it in, or install it with small bolts and washers and nylock nuts.
At least that looks like what broke from what I see and your description. Maybe you could fix your old door for less $$$ and work than the bondo and paint.
your build looks great! congrats on wrangling that awnry chair into laying flat.
Aloha!
__________________
Look at the Sky; look at the River. Isn't it Good?
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03-25-2021, 08:16 PM
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#1797
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 6,995
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: CE 300
Engine: DT466e
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mountain Gnome
BMW Z3?
They are known for lousy "window regulators" (and a lot more, unfortunately, when they get older. Watch the plastic stuff... Sporty as hell when new, though). These units make the window go up and down, and guide it as it moves, and are riveted to the the door. Drill out the rivets and you can get (could have gotten) a new "window regulator" (I find them for a better price on eBay). You can rivet it in, or install it with small bolts and washers and nylock nuts.
At least that looks like what broke from what I see and your description. Maybe you could fix your old door for less $$$ and work than the bondo and paint.
your build looks great! congrats on wrangling that awnry chair into laying flat.
Aloha!
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Thanks! Forcing furniture to be what you want it to be is kind of fun.
Yeah, BMW Z3. This is my second one, had it for four years - my first one lasted me nine years and now my cousin owns it. It's really not bad to get nine years out of an $11K car - it would be the cheapest prorated car I've ever owned if not for the $325 Rabbit that lasted me three years. And if you didn't count repairs.
I was going to try to DIY this window/door problem, but I really have a finite amount of mental energy to devote to figuring out how to do stuff, and the skoolie takes it all. I figured that fixing this door would probably take me a week or two - with most of that time devoted to figuring out how to get the door apart and back together again without breaking any of the little plastic fiddly bits.
I really was super-lucky to find a driver's side door the same color as my car, an hour and a half away for $200. And the Poconos are beautiful this time of year.
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03-25-2021, 10:12 PM
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#1798
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Sandpoint, ID
Posts: 533
Year: 2003
Coachwork: Girardin Microbird MB-IV
Chassis: Ford E450
Engine: 7.3 Diesel
Rated Cap: 25
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That couch looks great!
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03-25-2021, 11:22 PM
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#1799
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 6,995
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: CE 300
Engine: DT466e
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
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Finally found what is apparently the only pic I ever took of this sectional sofa thing before it got the axe.
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03-25-2021, 11:26 PM
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#1800
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 6,995
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: CE 300
Engine: DT466e
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
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Quote:
Originally Posted by peakbus
That couch looks great!
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Thanks, I'm pretty happy with it so far. I might never be willing to sit on it once it's done, which could be a problem.
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