Rusty 87 build thread

[JDSquared]

Originally Posted by musigenesis

Governor of PA just issued a stay-at-home order for Philly suburbs (including mine) for the next two weeks. Driving to work on a skoolie is not on the list of approved activities, but I don't think it's violating the principles since I'm not near anyone over there.

Our governor called a press conference to say he isn't doing that. I'm kinda ticked.

[Native]

Originally Posted by JDSquared

Our governor called a press conference to say he isn't doing that. I'm kinda ticked.

Were you look forward to some quality bus time?


I just posted the states that have a stay-at-home order in place on the COVID-19 thread: https://www.skoolie.net/forums/f9/covid-19-coronavirus-and-its-effects-on-skoolies-30614-3.html#post377744

[musigenesis]

Looks like it will be pretty easy to build a frame for this, with the 1" lips that run down each side. I'll need to put in at least the attachments for this on the floor before I put the sub-floor in. Suggestions very welcome for how to mount this thing! Haven't thought about it much. I'm going to draw a diagram showing where this is going to go.

Also got two gallons of Rusto primer and two gallons of the safety yellow enamel. Worst-case scenario, I can spend the next few weeks de-rusting and painting the rest of my underside. Boy, is that ever not what I want to do.

[Native]

It almost sounds like a BEST-CASE scenario ... it does get it DONE after all. Think about it. When will you ever get another chance to work on it that much?


I think that black grey tank will look striking against the very yellow undercarriage!


Did the seller provide specs and/or mounting guides?

[Frochevy]

I'll share with my plan of mounting. I have my black water tank mounted but it is not in service yet. So here's what I did. I used 1" x 3" rectangle tubing probably 1/8" wall and drilled holes completely through 1" from each end with around a 3/8" hole (or larger). I welded 3/8-16 nut serts to the top side inside of the tube. I then welded those tubes to my crossmembers of the floor where my tank will mount. I did this when I re did my floor. Next when I went to mount the tank I utilized 3/8-16 all thread cut to length that goes through the other tube with washer and nut on the bottom one mount at each end of the tank. I also bought clear tubing (cheap) to cover the all thread in the event the tank would rub on the all thread. I also cushioned the top and bottom with rubber (orange in the pics)

Note: This tank shown in pics is test mounted. I will glue the rubber to tubing. I will add tubing to the all thread and I purchased SS lock nuts to permanently mount the tanks up. After they are permanently mounted I will cut off the excess all thread hanging below... Again this is just my plan of action... Hope it works! Lol

[musigenesis]

I originally built the center trays by using self-tapping hex screws with neoprene washers to attach the sheet steel to the wood from the underside. Wasn't happy with how well they seemed to attach and I'm not confident in the neoprene washers to be watertight. So I pulled out the self-tappers and replaced them with bigger zinc-coated bolts run wet and then I covered the heads with seam sealer as well. Once these dry I'll paint them yellow before the permanent install.





Weird how once in a while this safety yellow looks exactly like school bus yellow in a pic:

[musigenesis]

Originally Posted by Frochevy

I then welded those tubes to my crossmembers of the floor where my tank will mount. I did this when I re did my floor.

These tubes are welded to the crossmembers on the underside of your floor? In my bus the surface rust on these crossmembers over where the tank is going to go is enough that I wouldn't feel confident in anything welded to them that needed to support any considerable weight. I'm going to have my anchoring structure welded to the floor above on the inside, so that the tank will pull down on the whole floor above it.


When you have a tank basically hanging by all-thread like that, do you also need to weld in stops of some sort to keep the tank from swaying forward and back (like a pendulum)? Or is the tank socked in tight against the bottom of the floor so that friction keeps it from moving? I hadn't really considered all-thread for this but it certainly seems easy to deal with.

[musigenesis]

Trying to see if I can waterproof this little hatch with a piece of 1/8" rubber glued to the cover. If it doesn't work (and I don't think it will based on my experiences trying to seal lights with this stuff) I'll have to use seam-sealer, which will make it harder to get the hatch up if I need to.

[Native]

Originally Posted by musigenesis

I pulled out the self-tappers and replaced them with bigger zinc-coated bolts run wet and then I covered the heads with seam sealer as well. Once these dry I'll paint them yellow before the permanent install.

Weird how once in a while this safety yellow looks exactly like school bus yellow in a pic:

The zinc screws do look beefier and should grip the wood better.


Yow, I thought you had a photo of an original school bus panel there!

[Frochevy]

Originally Posted by musigenesis

These tubes are welded to the crossmembers on the underside of your floor? In my bus the surface rust on these crossmembers over where the tank is going to go is enough that I wouldn't feel confident in anything welded to them that needed to support any considerable weight. I'm going to have my anchoring structure welded to the floor above on the inside, so that the tank will pull down on the whole floor above it.


When you have a tank basically hanging by all-thread like that, do you also need to weld in stops of some sort to keep the tank from swaying forward and back (like a pendulum)? Or is the tank socked in tight against the bottom of the floor so that friction keeps it from moving? I hadn't really considered all-thread for this but it certainly seems easy to deal with.

It has no sway at at all. And with the rubber top and bottom and when I put the hose on the all thread I think that will keep anything from rubbing. At first I was worried about an abrupt stop and sloshing causing the tank to slide forward or backward. However when bolted the tank up for fitment with out rubber on top yet, it is very tight with a little preload from the nuts. Not saying it's the right thing to do but hoping it'll work!!

Yes I removed my entire floor. It had very thin sheet metal so I replaced it all and removed all the metal that was more than surface rust. The crossmembers under my bus are structurally sound and I even added a few more where I thought they were lacking.

I have seen people using unistrut to mount tanks also... Good luck!!

[musigenesis]

I kind of wish I had masked and papered everything that wasn't going to be painted, like the wires and hoses and the transmission etc. I hate the paint spatters everywhere, but masking would have been way too much trouble. I may replace the plastic conduit stuff around the wires and hoses, at least.



























Now I just need to let it dry for a day or two (probably two) and then I can put down the four floor panels permanently with seam sealer and loctite. Which I'm starting to get nervous about because if I screw it up somehow, I'm going to have a bitch of a time getting the panels back up.

I wish fixing my ABS problem had proven to be easier, but I've found no cut wires anywhere. It's just so convenient to access that box while the floor is up.

I also have to fabricate a bracket tomorrow to support my piece of flex tube in the middle. Have to do that before the center tray goes in.

[JDSquared]

Originally Posted by Native

Were you look forward to some quality bus time?


I just posted the states that have a stay-at-home order in place on the COVID-19 thread: https://www.skoolie.net/forums/f9/covid-19-coronavirus-and-its-effects-on-skoolies-30614-3.html#post377744

We have one in the city now. It's been 85 degrees and light out til 8pm here. I've been getting some good hours in on my bus this week.

[musigenesis]

Originally Posted by JDSquared

We have one in the city now. It's been 85 degrees and light out til 8pm here. I've been getting some good hours in on my bus this week.

You've been cranking. I feel like I'm sort of getting back up to speed after my Florida trip and the virus preparations. I'm hoping to put my floor panels in on Sunday and then I can actually start in on the subfloor - this will be the first thing I'll be doing on my bus that isn't part of rust remediation.

Tomorrow I'm going to experiment with flux core welding. I'm out of mig gas and the place I get it from is essential and still open (I assume, anyway, since they mostly sell propane), but not on Saturdays and I don't feel like going anywhere until everybody's completely on board with proper social distancing. I was waiting for my food pickup at Shoprite and it was just tons of people crowding in there, only one or two masks that I saw.

One sad old guy hobbled in and came out pushing a cart that had only a single 12-pack of beer in it. Risking COVID-19 for one case of beer.

[JDSquared]

If I told you some of the risks I took for beer you would know why I don't drink anymore. I totally get where that guy's head is at.

Your bus looks good.

I came so close two weeks ago to buying the titanium 125 from harbor freight. It was on sale. Looks great for a flux core but not sure if I can weld what I need with it. Plus I wasn't sure about using power at my storage unit. And my Genny is 13a max. Turns out the guy charged me $20 for electricity this month. He threatened to. I trickle charge my battery sometimes just like 3 other RVs do. Who don't get charged. He doesn't want me there so I guess I'm moving in a few weeks.

[musigenesis]

Originally Posted by JDSquared

I came so close two weeks ago to buying the titanium 125 from harbor freight. It was on sale. Looks great for a flux core but not sure if I can weld what I need with it. Plus I wasn't sure about using power at my storage unit. And my Genny is 13a max. Turns out the guy charged me $20 for electricity this month. He threatened to. I trickle charge my battery sometimes just like 3 other RVs do. Who don't get charged. He doesn't want me there so I guess I'm moving in a few weeks.

My limited understanding is that for a given voltage/amperage, you get better penetration (so you can handle thicker metal) with flux core than with mig. I've been mig welding on 3/16" at home on a 15a circuit, so I think your genny would be able to handle what you need to do. But I don't know that.

[DrDanger]

Originally Posted by Frochevy

It has no sway at at all. And with the rubber top and bottom and when I put the hose on the all thread I think that will keep anything from rubbing. At first I was worried about an abrupt stop and sloshing causing the tank to slide forward or backward. However when bolted the tank up for fitment with out rubber on top yet, it is very tight with a little preload from the nuts. Not saying it's the right thing to do but hoping it'll work!!
...

I have seen people using unistrut to mount tanks also... Good luck!!

I think it probably depends on how big your tanks are (and therefore how much water weight is moving around). I ended up bolting frames to the chassis because that is how my fuel tank is attached and I've got more water than fuel. Maybe it is overkill, maybe not. My philosophy on the build has been changing over time, however. Now I think you might as well try the easiest/fastest reasonable solution. If it breaks in a few months or a year then you can develop a better plan. If it doesn't break...roll with it!


I've also seen quite a few people who use uni-strut tank mounts. Seems to work for most.

[Native]

Originally Posted by musigenesis

Now I just need to let it dry for a day or two (probably two) and then I can put down the four floor panels permanently with seam sealer and loctite. Which I'm starting to get nervous about because if I screw it up somehow, I'm going to have a bitch of a time getting the panels back up.

Let it go for at least two days.


Once again, I am glad I did not view this INSIDE our bus, it would REALLY be jealous right now.

[Truthseeker4449]

Originally Posted by musigenesis

I wish fixing my ABS problem had proven to be easier, but I've found no cut wires anywhere. It's just so convenient to access that box while the floor is up.

Have you been able to pull any codes?

Currently have my own ABS mystery to solve as well. When I pulled the codes I found faults for all three wheel speed channels . All my sensors and tone rings appear intact as well.

[musigenesis]

Originally Posted by Truthseeker4449

Have you been able to pull any codes?

Currently have my own ABS mystery to solve as well. When I pulled the codes I found faults for all three wheel speed channels . All my sensors and tone rings appear intact as well.

When I held a magnet next to the ABS box, I got the SEN, LFT and RER lights lighting up. Pulling the codes is something else?

[musigenesis]

This is how I'm going to handle my roof curvature. I'm going to build jigs once I figure out the right depths and numbers of cuts so I can mass-produce all the sections for my ceiling. They should just squeeze in and then be held in place by my front-to-back furring strips. I'm planning to use 1.5" board which will bend a bit more easily on its own than this 2" stuff.