Rusty 87 build thread

[kidharris]

Originally Posted by musigenesis

Hey, now ... my bus is Gruyere, thank you very much.

Would that be grated Gruyere? or just cut into blocks for the floor? Sorry, I looked it up and Gruyere can be called Swiss cheese if it is made in Switzerland. I didn't realize...

[Native]

Originally Posted by musigenesis

Hot damn! https://bigshipsalvage.com/product-c...-valve-wheels/

I like the 5-spoke one ... it looks like a door/vault mechanism.


Congratulations on the new parking spot, sorry it comes with a raise in rent!

[musigenesis]

Originally Posted by Native

I like the 5-spoke one ... it looks like a door/vault mechanism.


Congratulations on the new parking spot, sorry it comes with a raise in rent!

Funny thing is: yesterday apparently the couple that actually rents that spot for their RV showed up after being gone since April and was all pissed off that my bus was in the way. The owner was pissed at me too until I pointed out the fallen tree on my spot, and then she was like "oh, I see".

$100/mo is not really that bad at all. I was afraid she was going a lot higher than that.

[Native]

Does this mean you are going to move it to another space in the lot?

[musigenesis]

Originally Posted by Native

Does this mean you are going to move it to another space in the lot?

I dunno. Theoretically she'll have the tree cut down and removed so I can go back to my original spot, but it took her three months to get around to raising my rent, so I imagine the tree removal is not going to be immediate.

[Oldyeller]

Originally Posted by kidharris

Sounds like it might work. I would leak test it first. If you can remove the window, you might get better clues. If it is installed properly and any rubber seals are in good shape it shouldn't leak. Do not use silicone caulk if at all possible. It doesn't stick well and will fool you

"Do not use silicone caulk . . . ." What type of caulk would you recommend? I've wondered about this and noted that many folks have used and recommend silicone caulk. My thoughts are that caulk on a vehicle has to be able to move constantly with the movement of the vehicle's body, hopefully for the life of the vehicle. I'm sure that means movement in EVERY direction, something that wouldn't normally happen with a building for which most caulks are designed.

[musigenesis]

Originally Posted by Oldyeller

"Do not use silicone caulk . . . ." What type of caulk would you recommend? I've wondered about this and noted that many folks have used and recommend silicone caulk. My thoughts are that caulk on a vehicle has to be able to move constantly with the movement of the vehicle's body, hopefully for the life of the vehicle. I'm sure that means movement in EVERY direction, something that wouldn't normally happen with a building for which most caulks are designed.

Automotive seam sealer (like Dynatron-550) is specifically designed to waterproof body seams in vehicles, and it can be painted over (neither is true for silicon caulk).

[Mountain Gnome]

A body repair guy (at a pro shop) told me never use silicone against metal body panels. It actually absorbs water. That is why your silicone sealant around your bathtub turns black with mold. That is why you often can't just clean off the mold - it is inside the silicone (spray it with hydrogen peroxide and let it sit there - spray it after every shower - and the mold will die).


Anyway silicone against metal body panels can actually cause them to rust. Yea, it sheds the bulk of the water - stops the drips.


Urethane is what I was told to use. Never tried the Dynatron people here say to use. I've been using 3M "Windo-Weld" fast acting urethane. I recommend it. No, I don't work for them.

[musigenesis]

Nothing to do with skoolies, but damn do I want this toy: https://philadelphia.craigslist.org/...170924962.html.

[musigenesis]

Originally Posted by Mountain Gnome

Urethane is what I was told to use. Never tried the Dynatron people here say to use. I've been using 3M "Windo-Weld" fast acting urethane. I recommend it. No, I don't work for them.

Huh, I sort of figured all the 3M sealers were minor variations on the same basic stuff, but it seems not (pun intended). This is the product doc for Window-Weld (Section 3 has the ingredients) and this is the product doc for Dynatron-550 (also Section 3). Seems the 'tron isn't urethane at all, it's mostly limestone ... uh, naturally.

[kidharris]

Originally Posted by Oldyeller

"Do not use silicone caulk . . . ." What type of caulk would you recommend? I've wondered about this and noted that many folks have used and recommend silicone caulk. My thoughts are that caulk on a vehicle has to be able to move constantly with the movement of the vehicle's body, hopefully for the life of the vehicle. I'm sure that means movement in EVERY direction, something that wouldn't normally happen with a building for which most caulks are designed.

I was introduced to polyurethane caulk by a skyscraper window installer, skyscrapers both sway and have a lot of expansion issues to deal with. They also can't leak or have their windows popping out



I had to warranty my work so I used a single part urethane caulk (multy parts are a real pain.) Available in colors to sort of blend in with paint, but it can be painted over anyway after curing. Urethane is super adhesive, stays a rubbery soft, and is elastic. It adheres to most anything and is hell to remove once cured. You can easily make expansion joints out of it and most brands could fill cracks up to 3/8 of an inch. Bigger cracks than that with reinforcing fabrics, but I would do something different.



Silicone has to have super clean surfaces to stick to and even then it is very picky. It fools you into thinking that it is working and then a year later it peels off. Silicone is also slippery. The best use that I found for silicone is on high, high heat applications like caulking gas exhaust vents.


I have been out of the construction trades long enough that tech could have produced something better and not all brands are created equal, but If I didn't have time to do proper research and I had to have something today I would pick most any urethane over silicone. I would first make absolutely sure that I wanted to caulk it. Read the instructions before purchase.



Silicone is good at making compression gaskets though, which may fool a mechanic into thinking it would make a good caulk. I also think that the word "silicon" is a good marketing term that automatically conjures up images of high tech for many people because of its use in electronics, the medical industry (inert, doesn't interact biologically), and makes good slippery wax/polish finishes. Nothing that I am aware of sticks well to silicon, especially paint.

[kidharris]

Originally Posted by musigenesis

Huh, I sort of figured all the 3M sealers were minor variations on the same basic stuff, but it seems not (pun intended). This is the product doc for Window-Weld (Section 3 has the ingredients) and this is the product doc for Dynatron-550 (also Section 3). Seems the 'tron isn't urethane at all, it's mostly limestone ... uh, naturally.

I almost put a smarty pants comment here..... but I couldn't think of one

[Native]

Originally Posted by musigenesis

Huh, I sort of figured all the 3M sealers were minor variations on the same basic stuff, but it seems not (pun intended). This is the product doc for Window-Weld (Section 3 has the ingredients) and this is the product doc for Dynatron-550 (also Section 3). Seems the 'tron isn't urethane at all, it's mostly limestone ... uh, naturally.

I have been using Loctite PL Window Door & Siding polyurethane sealant on our bus. Works well. It used to be sold as PL-S40. I purchase them at Home Depot. I do like that it is paintable and expands/contracts with the material to which it is applied.

[cadillackid]

here is one of the big issues with the "shingling" or "channeling" approach in a bus.. take your bus out and drive it.. open the driver window like many of you will do. those front mirrors will create and instant vacuum against your bus.. sometimes you can feel it in your ears even.. now if there is water in the rain as you drive being channeled down.. and there is a little hole? its now a vacuum cleaner hose of sorts thats gonna suck it right in. houses arent built to be driven on the highway or parked unlevel where water can run in every direction...



while channeling helps.. you need to think of keeping it dry while driving also.. or never drive in the rain..

[Oldyeller]

Originally Posted by musigenesis

Automotive seam sealer (like Dynatron-550) is specifically designed to waterproof body seams in vehicles, and it can be painted over (neither is true for silicon caulk).

Originally Posted by Mountain Gnome

A body repair guy (at a pro shop) told me never use silicone against metal body panels. It actually absorbs water. That is why your silicone sealant around your bathtub turns black with mold. That is why you often can't just clean off the mold - it is inside the silicone (spray it with hydrogen peroxide and let it sit there - spray it after every shower - and the mold will die).


Anyway silicone against metal body panels can actually cause them to rust. Yea, it sheds the bulk of the water - stops the drips.


Urethane is what I was told to use. Never tried the Dynatron people here say to use. I've been using 3M "Windo-Weld" fast acting urethane. I recommend it. No, I don't work for them.

I'll do some reading and make a decision.

A strike against silicone is my experience as a home owner resealing house windows and being able to peel old silicone right off a window frame with little or no effort. That's in a situation in which the window and frame were stationary, not twisting and flexing in a vehicle going down the road at 60 mph (OK, I'm old and drive slow )

Given my rate of progress and how fast the days are flying by I may have to postpone resealing my windows until I drive the bus down to Daytona Beach in late October.

[Caplansail]

Originally Posted by musigenesis

Hot damn! https://bigshipsalvage.com/product-c...-valve-wheels/

Great lead! I just got two light fixtures.

Now I just need a bus.

[kidharris]

Originally Posted by cadillackid

here is one of the big issues with the "shingling" or "channeling" approach in a bus.. take your bus out and drive it.. open the driver window like many of you will do. those front mirrors will create and instant vacuum against your bus.. sometimes you can feel it in your ears even.. now if there is water in the rain as you drive being channeled down.. and there is a little hole? its now a vacuum cleaner hose of sorts thats gonna suck it right in. houses arent built to be driven on the highway or parked unlevel where water can run in every direction...



while channeling helps.. you need to think of keeping it dry while driving also.. or never drive in the rain..

I don't get your point. Many rain storms have high winds, the structure doesn't have to move to be subject to wind problems, and if you leave the windows open you should expect some water to get in. If weep holes are part of the design they should drain any water that intrudes if they are not plugged/covered up. On some older cars if you look inside the door shell you will see weep holes in the very bottom to allow the water that gets past their crappy window seals to drain out.


My ThomasBuilt bus uses a small gutter all down the edge of the roof to help divert/channel water away from the windows so that less water drains down the window face. Many older vehicles have gutters over the doors.


The Bluebirds that I have seen use a drip edge that is pushed/louvered out from the edge of the roof line to divert/channel the water away from the windows.


My point here is that standard roofing practices are used extensively in vehicle designs to prevent/minimize leaking and the associated damage. They are not obvious, by design, but if we are going to be redesigning/building the vehicles then we should be cognizant of what we are doing and that caulk can cause as many if not more problems than it cures.



It is a fact of nature that water will go downhill until it can't. At that point it will start destroying stuff, if it can, as it seeks a way to continue its journey.....LOL ...BS

[musigenesis]

Primed both sides of my bulkhead wall. Is there any task more annoying than painting expanded steel sheet with a brush? I don't think so. I really should have painted these before I installed them, but I figured I would have to weld additional stuff on them.

Not doing the door yet because I am going to have to weld more on it to attach my valve wheels.





More lanternflies, these are just the ones on the tiny tree next to my bus door. This tree is dying as soon as I can remember to take a saw that can reach through chain link fence over there. Otherwise it's gas and a match.





Another CL find - 110V electric dryer (this thing.)
I'm not anticipating it working terribly well, but we'll see. $100 is worth a stab at it.

[kidharris]

Originally Posted by musigenesis

Primed both sides of my bulkhead wall. Is there any task more annoying than painting expanded steel sheet with a brush? I don't think so. I really should have painted these before I installed them, but I figured I would have to weld additional stuff on them.

Not doing the door yet because I am going to have to weld more on it to attach my valve wheels.

Attachment 47846

Attachment 47847

More lanternflies, these are just the ones on the tiny tree next to my bus door. This tree is dying as soon as I can remember to take a saw that can reach through chain link fence over there. Otherwise it's gas and a match.

Attachment 47848

Attachment 47849

Another CL find - 110V electric dryer (this thing.)
I'm not anticipating it working terribly well, but we'll see. $100 is worth a stab at it.

Attachment 47850

Attachment 47851

Attachment 47852

I still think that you should try spraying the lantern flies with soapy/foamy water

[Native]

Soapy/foamy water works on bees quite well.