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Old 02-16-2017, 09:28 PM   #461
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Adams County Ohio?
Yes sir. Near Manchester and West Union.

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Old 04-10-2017, 07:54 PM   #462
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Next bolt on the A/C unit.









Then install the service cover to protect the condenser foil.

Is this just a standard window unit? Aside from having access to clean the fins of road dirt/dust, I really like this idea. I plan on being mobile tho.
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Old 04-11-2017, 11:51 PM   #463
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So much cool fabrication on your build, jealous of your skills !
I've to make quite a bit of undercarriage storage as well but doubt my doors and storage will be anywhere near as nice. Have a stand up indoor ac unit at the moment. May have to copy your ac design, I've seen it done for boats in the same fashion, smart stuff sir ! Looks great keep it up !
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Old 04-12-2017, 10:07 PM   #464
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Note to self: Come back and read more than the pictures.Is this just a standard window unit? Aside from having access to clean the fins of road dirt/dust, I really like this idea. I plan on being mobile tho.
One will be able to rinse it generally through the metal grate. If better cleaning is required access is quite easy. Just a few screws and the entire expanded metal grate comes off. Just a few more and the entire unit slips out. It's located right behind the fuel tank to reduce the amount of dirt it would see. Lot's easier than cleaning a rooftop mounted unit.
We too are planning on being mobile but will only be using the basement AC when stopped.
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Old 04-12-2017, 10:08 PM   #465
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So much cool fabrication on your build, jealous of your skills !
I've to make quite a bit of undercarriage storage as well but doubt my doors and storage will be anywhere near as nice. Have a stand up indoor ac unit at the moment. May have to copy your ac design, I've seen it done for boats in the same fashion, smart stuff sir ! Looks great keep it up !
Thanks for the kind comment. Haven't been able to work on it lately like I'd like but am working on resolving that situation. Can't wait to get my hands back in it!!
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Old 04-13-2017, 07:56 AM   #466
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Originally Posted by sojourner View Post
One will be able to rinse it generally through the metal grate. If better cleaning is required access is quite easy. Just a few screws and the entire expanded metal grate comes off. Just a few more and the entire unit slips out. It's located right behind the fuel tank to reduce the amount of dirt it would see. Lot's easier than cleaning a rooftop mounted unit.
We too are planning on being mobile but will only be using the basement AC when stopped.
Oh you do have it in there "backwards"; clever. My fuel tank must be unusual. Everyone is worried about theirs. Mine is more towards teh front of the bus and between the frail rails. The only down side is it's a 60 gallon tank. Plenty of room for a bigger one tho. If I can find a 100 galon that fits between the rails, I'll use the 60 for gray or black water.

My bus has no AC so, ... can you use it while drivining? I can't think of any reason why it couldn't be used. Maybe put in a second set of duct work for the driver's area.
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Old 04-13-2017, 11:53 AM   #467
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Oh you do have it in there "backwards"; clever. My fuel tank must be unusual. Everyone is worried about theirs. Mine is more towards teh front of the bus and between the frail rails. The only down side is it's a 60 gallon tank. Plenty of room for a bigger one tho. If I can find a 100 galon that fits between the rails, I'll use the 60 for gray or black water.

My bus has no AC so, ... can you use it while drivining? I can't think of any reason why it couldn't be used. Maybe put in a second set of duct work for the driver's area.
I don't have the standard 65 gallon fuel tank. I removed it and built twin tanks to extend my range. I don't plan on using it while running. When I do the interior, I'll be closing off the cab from the kitchen area. If I do install AC in the cab, it'll be an engine driven system.
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Old 04-13-2017, 12:21 PM   #468
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Off topic but need to share

Hey everyone. I know this doesn't have much to do with my build per se but I need to pass along some info that might help someone in the future.
I have a 1994 Ford F-350 with a 7.3 Powerstroke. I've been having issues with a miss when cold for a few years and not able to nail down the issue. I thought it was an electrical issue (the injectors are electrically actuated). Recently I had an injector go totally on the fritz with me. Engine with a dead miss, knocking sound, smoke out the tailpipe but no banging (which might indicate a much more serious issue). The thing is, the condition would change so I theorized it was a sticking injector. know I didn't relish the idea of dropping a grand on a rebuilt set of injectors but didn't see much of a choice. While doing a web search for injector sets, I ran across this site:
Hot Shot's Secret - High Performance Diesel & Gas Additives
As I read their info, it was like they knew my truck!! I decided to drop $100 on their stiction eliminator, fuel treatment and maintenance oil additive. Well, I changed the oil yesterday and low and behold the stuff does exactly what they said it would. I cannot believe the difference!! The engine runs like a sewing machine. Very smooth power with no smoke, chugging or anything like that. It only took about 30 seconds with the engine running to hear the difference. Being a bit of a skeptic I thought i'd give it the real test and see if it would start cold without a shot of starting fluid. My truck has not started cold without being either plugged in or needing a shot of starting fluid in a couple years unless it's really hot outside. I got in this morning, turned the key on, waited for the glowplug light to go off and hit the starter. The engine fired up immediately!! It's not done that in a very long time. So fat, I can't rave enough about this product. If you're having issues like mine you might want to give it a try. Needless to say, I'm going to be using their products on Gimel!!
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Old 04-13-2017, 12:34 PM   #469
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I don't have the standard 65 gallon fuel tank. I removed it and built twin tanks to extend my range.
I don't either. The guy at the school shop said it was 60 not 65. From here I've only heard mention of 65 and 100. I had a hair less thean a 1/4 tank when I filled up; it took 37 gallons. That's 3/4 of 50. Anywho, price will decide it. Whatever I can find that fits between teh frame rails. There's room for a secoundary tank even at 100 gallons. 165 total would be a nice range.

Quote:
If I do install AC in the cab, it'll be an engine driven system.
If you don't alreayd have engine AC, would that be esier than just ducting the window unit? I don't see how it would be. Now if you already have it then it's a moot point.
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Old 04-13-2017, 02:08 PM   #470
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If you don't alreayd have engine AC, would that be esier than just ducting the window unit? I don't see how it would be. Now if you already have it then it's a moot point.
I'm not a fan of running a AC compressor designed to sit still under heavy vibration conditions. I could be wrong but it just doesn't sound like a good idea to me. I have no issue installing an engine driven compressor, dryer, filter, evaporator, condenser and hoses to custom build a system if need be. I could probably adapt a truck cab system easily enough. The heater core on these things is WAY oversized for just the cab. I'm thinking of redesigning that area anyhow. Would be a good place to build a box to house both the heater and evaporator core.
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Old 04-13-2017, 02:28 PM   #471
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I'm not a fan of running a AC compressor designed to sit still under heavy vibration conditions. I could be wrong but it just doesn't sound like a good idea to me. I have no issue installing an engine driven compressor, dryer, filter, evaporator, condenser and hoses to custom build a system if need be. I could probably adapt a truck cab system easily enough. The heater core on these things is WAY oversized for just the cab. I'm thinking of redesigning that area anyhow. Would be a good place to build a box to house both the heater and evaporator core.
My concern would be with where to mount an engine driven compressor and then finding a belt the right size to drive it. The belt would be easy enough but if the bus was never designed with AC, then where/how to mount it?Whatever bracket you make is going to have to line up pretty damn close to the crankshaft and then you're going to need an extra pulley there too. Now if it wa an option and yours didn't have it, then adding would be easy peasy.

Window unit or not, you can rip it apart and put oversized/oversoft bushings on it to cut down the vibrations.

Just my two cents.
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Old 04-13-2017, 02:28 PM   #472
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sojourner View Post
Hey everyone. I know this doesn't have much to do with my build per se but I need to pass along some info that might help someone in the future.
I have a 1994 Ford F-350 with a 7.3 Powerstroke. I've been having issues with a miss when cold for a few years and not able to nail down the issue. I thought it was an electrical issue (the injectors are electrically actuated). Recently I had an injector go totally on the fritz with me. Engine with a dead miss, knocking sound, smoke out the tailpipe but no banging (which might indicate a much more serious issue). The thing is, the condition would change so I theorized it was a sticking injector. know I didn't relish the idea of dropping a grand on a rebuilt set of injectors but didn't see much of a choice. While doing a web search for injector sets, I ran across this site:
Hot Shot's Secret - High Performance Diesel & Gas Additives
As I read their info, it was like they knew my truck!! I decided to drop $100 on their stiction eliminator, fuel treatment and maintenance oil additive. Well, I changed the oil yesterday and low and behold the stuff does exactly what they said it would. I cannot believe the difference!! The engine runs like a sewing machine. Very smooth power with no smoke, chugging or anything like that. It only took about 30 seconds with the engine running to hear the difference. Being a bit of a skeptic I thought i'd give it the real test and see if it would start cold without a shot of starting fluid. My truck has not started cold without being either plugged in or needing a shot of starting fluid in a couple years unless it's really hot outside. I got in this morning, turned the key on, waited for the glowplug light to go off and hit the starter. The engine fired up immediately!! It's not done that in a very long time. So fat, I can't rave enough about this product. If you're having issues like mine you might want to give it a try. Needless to say, I'm going to be using their products on Gimel!!
Interesting!
I JUST had some of that "hot shot" stuff in hand the other day when I was looking at diesel additives. I thought it seemed too good to be true. I'll grab some once I'm out of Diesel Kleen.
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Old 04-13-2017, 02:47 PM   #473
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I didn't realize it was that important to run diesel additives. Does anyone use Seafoam? That's probably to wimpy for diesels.

EC; do you run that Diesel Kleen all the time or just occasionally?
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Old 04-13-2017, 02:50 PM   #474
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I didn't realize it was that important to run diesel additives. Does anyone use Seafoam? That's probably to wimpy for diesels.

EC; do you run that Diesel Kleen all the time or just occasionally?
I run DK all the time. I'm NOT a big believer in snake oils and additives, but DK does wonders for a diesel engine.
IDK bout seafoam, I only use it to clean carbs on my mopeds and occasionally pour a half a bottle into my car's fuel tank.
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Old 04-13-2017, 03:22 PM   #475
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Yeah, I believe sea foam is primarily a gas engine additive. You can pour sea foam right down the carburetor to remove carbon deposits but it makes this huge cloud of smoke while you're doing it on a car. Makes all the neighbors look.

I'll try out that DK because my methods haven't been working on this cummins. Thanks.
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Old 04-13-2017, 06:16 PM   #476
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Yeah, I believe sea foam is primarily a gas engine additive. You can pour sea foam right down the carburetor to remove carbon deposits but it makes this huge cloud of smoke while you're doing it on a car. Makes all the neighbors look.

I'll try out that DK because my methods haven't been working on this cummins. Thanks.
Definitely pick up some. Its one of the few additives that is worth a damn.
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Old 04-13-2017, 08:24 PM   #477
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Yeah, I believe sea foam is primarily a gas engine additive. You can pour sea foam right down the carburetor to remove carbon deposits but it makes this huge cloud of smoke while you're doing it on a car. Makes all the neighbors look.

I'll try out that DK because my methods haven't been working on this cummins. Thanks.

Yea, Seafoam, while great for gas engine fuel systems, isn't designed for diesel. I can tell you, I, like ECCB am not a fan of snake oil treatments and such. I spent 30 years as a marine tech. Just never saw the need for them with the exception of additives to diesel fuel to keep down algae growth and such. I can tell you now I am a believer. I've seen the difference with my own eyes and it's amazing.
With the direct injected engines, the injectors are hydraulically operated and electrically actuated. Not only do the injectors get crudded up on the fuel side, they also get what's called "sticktion" on the oil side causing them to operate erratically. I think in the indirect injected engines (the ones with an injection pump and steel tubing going to each injector) the oil side should be addressed as well as friction anywhere can cause issues. The Stiction Eliminator also cleans rings and other deposits in the engine. They also sell a fuel treatment (they offer a free bottle with some orders) called Diesel Extreme that you only add 8oz. to your fuel tank and only treat once in 6000 miles. I got the $97 tune up promotion and have product to last me quite a while.
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Old 04-13-2017, 08:30 PM   #478
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My concern would be with where to mount an engine driven compressor and then finding a belt the right size to drive it. The belt would be easy enough but if the bus was never designed with AC, then where/how to mount it?Whatever bracket you make is going to have to line up pretty damn close to the crankshaft and then you're going to need an extra pulley there too. Now if it wa an option and yours didn't have it, then adding would be easy peasy.

Window unit or not, you can rip it apart and put oversized/oversoft bushings on it to cut down the vibrations.

Just my two cents.
Not sure if I mentioned it or not but I've been a mechanic since about 9 years old |(when I tore down my first lawnmower engine). Spent my career as a marine technician. Done lots of modifications to engines to drive all kinds of stuff. The engine in mine is a DTA408 International (de-stroked 466). A real common platform in a lot of trucks. Getting a compressor bracket off a salvage unit should not be a problem. Now, setting it all up will require removing the radiator since my bus is a FE. Would be a good time to change the belt anyhow .
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Old 04-13-2017, 09:41 PM   #479
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With your experience you already know those old rubber seals are going to start going out. I've been dreading having to pull the radiator. If the water pump looks original I'd replace that too for the new seal and bearings while I was in there. On an older high mileage vehicle of 20+ years I also like to replace the oil pump if I've got the pan off. It's so much cheaper than doing it on the road during a trip. I like to hedge my bets.
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Old 04-14-2017, 07:43 AM   #480
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I got the $97 tune up promotion and have product to last me quite a while.
I must have missed the promotion button. It was $102 and that looked like a single treatment. I did NOT submit the order. I think I want to wait. I've been doing a lot of idling so I should probably get the Slick50 (whatever one that was in their lineup). That's going to kill the mileage on this tank of gas anyway. I'd rather refill first then take it for a real drive somewhere. I might go ahead and order sooner than later just to have everything on hand for my fluid changes. One of them said it was good for power steering and diff oil as well.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sojourner View Post
Not sure if I mentioned it or not but I've been a mechanic since about 9 years old |(when I tore down my first lawnmower engine). Spent my career as a marine technician. Done lots of modifications to engines to drive all kinds of stuff. The engine in mine is a DTA408 International (de-stroked 466). A real common platform in a lot of trucks. Getting a compressor bracket off a salvage unit should not be a problem. Now, setting it all up will require removing the radiator since my bus is a FE. Would be a good time to change the belt anyhow .
You didn't include your start date before but I did catch the marine tech. Stealing spares from a junk yard is cheating for a man of your talents. You gotta fab your own bracket. Since you don't like the drag on the crankshaft, it's gotta be powered off of one of the wheels then chain driven to wherever the compressor is going to live. And since you want AC especially while sitting at red lights, the secondary drive takes over from an electric motor. Getting the clutches to work independently will be the tricky part.

Yeah, I know a boat tech too.
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