Sojourner

[cowlitzcoach]

Those are really neat looking full moons.

My only concern is lack of ventilation for the brakes. Those brakes can get wicked hot while going down a hill. With no way for the heat to escape through the wheels all of the heat will have to dissipate through the little space between the drums and the back side of the wheel.

I also wonder what will happen to those full moons when the brakes get hot.

[Brewerbob]

My concern would be dust/dirt. I'm lazy. If you get in there with a hose once a month, once a 1,000 miles, or whatever you'd be good. Need to go find a pot hole and hit it at 65mph.


Does look pretty sharp tho.

[djdalfaro]

I'm digging the wheel covers, I might try something like this when I get to that point. I also have concerns about the magnets. My concerns are about the centrifugal force which will be apparent if the center of gravity is not perfectly placed in the center of the wheel spin. If you have the capabilities, I'd give it a test and place them off center and do a full speed test to see if it gets flung off. If not, I'd call it good.

I'd just hate to be responsible for the flying pizza pan of death in the local newspaper.

[sojourner]

Originally Posted by cowlitzcoach

Those are really neat looking full moons.

My only concern is lack of ventilation for the brakes. Those brakes can get wicked hot while going down a hill. With no way for the heat to escape through the wheels all of the heat will have to dissipate through the little space between the drums and the back side of the wheel.

I also wonder what will happen to those full moons when the brakes get hot.

I hear your concerns but there's more air flow capacity with these than wheel simulators available that hug the hub much tighter. Still plenty of air flow around the spokes (mine are dayton spokes, not budd's)

[sojourner]

Originally Posted by djdalfaro

I'm digging the wheel covers, I might try something like this when I get to that point. I also have concerns about the magnets. My concerns are about the centrifugal force which will be apparent if the center of gravity is not perfectly placed in the center of the wheel spin. If you have the capabilities, I'd give it a test and place them off center and do a full speed test to see if it gets flung off. If not, I'd call it good.

I'd just hate to be responsible for the flying pizza pan of death in the local newspaper.

There's little to no centrifugal force in the center of a spinning object. Remember the days of the playground merry-go-round? You can stand in the middle (as long as you don't get dizzy) but get flung off at the edges. These magnets (which are bolted to their mounting plates) have a combined holding force of over 250lbs keeping the edges of the wheel covers pulled tightly to the wheel rim. There's 5 spacers around the edge to keep the drum head centered and not able to move. If it was able to move, it would only center the drum head better. It's simply not possible to put things off center to test a condition that couldn't exist in the first place.

By the way, if one was to try to pry a wheel cover off from the edge, they'd totally destroy it. I have to use a screw jack (designed into the cover) to remove and install them.

[plfking]

Originally Posted by sojourner

Made the new magnet mounts from plate aluminum and got them mount


Did the glazing putty on the wheel covers, sanded and painted them and mounted to the rear wheels:

Those look cool as hell.

When you paint your bus, will you paint these to match?

[Brewerbob]

Originally Posted by sojourner

By the way, if one was to try to pry a wheel cover off from the edge, they'd totally destroy it. I have to use a screw jack (designed into the cover) to remove and install them.

That sounds pretty damn tight.

[sojourner]

Originally Posted by plfking

Those look cool as hell.

When you paint your bus, will you paint these to match?

Will do. I'm testing the color with the dark gray hammertone.

[o1marc]

Powder coat them. I would think if they were off centered at all, at speed they would worsen and fly off. You prevented that with the 5 stays No need to test to see. I hope they last long before someone tries to steal them, just because they are cool and different. They'd be easy to find if they were stolen with our community spread all over, someone would spot them.

[sojourner]

Originally Posted by o1marc

Powder coat them. I would think if they were off centered at all, at speed they would worsen and fly off. You prevented that with the 5 stays No need to test to see. I hope they last long before someone tries to steal them, just because they are cool and different. They'd be easy to find if they were stolen with our community spread all over, someone would spot them.

Not sure the glazing putty would hold up in the heat of powder coating. As far as theft, they're easy to make and the instructions are here on this thread . No need to steal some when one can make their own!!

[sojourner]

It's been a little while since my last post. We've had colossal rain here for weeks now and hitting it just right on the one day a week I can actually work on this with some help has narrowed opportunities for advancement. So what's been happening since my last post?


For one, after thoroughly cleaning the underside of the roof sheet metal (which was rusting UNDER the tar patches) and treating with rust converter I applied PRO CRYL primer to help seal things up. I gotta tell you guys, while expensive ($60/gallon) this stuff is really good!! Sticks to galvanized as it was designed to do. When I get everything properly prepped, I'll use it for the entire inside before building out the interior.
Here's what things look like inside for now:





I, my wife and son got the side panels in place. They're made from 17ga galvanized sheet metal I stole for $15/4x10 sheet. There was a bit of white rust but after a little sanding, acetone wash and two coats of primer they installed relatively easy. They're not only riveted from the outside but will also be riveted along the top from the inside to the drip rail (which is hollow) when finished.


As you can see from this pic I reinstalled the top rub rail:





We're not entirely finished with this side yet. I still have to weld in place the seat belt anchors before covering the navigator seat area. Getting the final prep on that is my next step. It might be a couple weeks though, I injured my knee on a fall at work yesterday which is why I'm posting mid day on a workday:





As you can see, I temporarily mounted a folding grab handle next to the entry door.


Once the final piece of sheet metal is installed, I can then get the rub rails cut to length and ends welded back on them. The intention is to make the rub rails look as if they were factory made with the original terminations rather than simply cutting them off.


I talked with a local glass company about rebuilding the windows and he suggested replacing the 1/8" glass with tinted 1/4" laminated safety glass eliminating the troublesome vinyl glazing (that's no longer available). He said he's done a lot that way for local school systems. I have some other ideas on sealing the window units as well. I'll keep ya'll posted as that progresses. I'm getting close to having this thing totally sealed up so I can get to work on rebuilding and refitting the dash. Of course, until I get foam sprayed, I'll have to keep a dehumidifier going.

[Brewerbob]

Originally Posted by sojourner

We've had colossal rain here for weeks now

That doesn't help narrow down your location. I can't remember but it might as well be here. Way too much rain as of late.

after thoroughly cleaning the underside of the roof sheet metal (which was rusting UNDER the tar patches)

Who did you manage this? I still have bits of insulation batting stuck to mine. A broom and sweeping the ceiling will probably remove the batting. I might leave the tar but I do like that nice clean finish you've got there!!

I'll have to keep a dehumidifier going.

Why? Mine isn't anywhere near airtight. And I open all the windows while working on it. Yours is much more airtight and completely primed/painted (thus not needing dehumidified). Just sounds like wasted effort and electricity to me.

[sojourner]

Originally Posted by Brewerbob

That doesn't help narrow down your location. I can't remember but it might as well be here. Way too much rain as of late.

I live in South Carolina

Who did you manage this? I still have bits of insulation batting stuck to mine. A broom and sweeping the ceiling will probably remove the batting. I might leave the tar but I do like that nice clean finish you've got there!!

Check page 74. I give the details of EASY tar removal. I slice off strips in seconds down to bare metal. Just because the tar is there doesn't mean there isn't corrosion lying under it.

Why? Mine isn't anywhere near airtight. And I open all the windows while working on it. Yours is much more airtight and completely primed/painted (thus not needing dehumidified). Just sounds like wasted effort and electricity to me.

Even with the windows out condensation builds up on the inside and it basically rains every morning. It vents out as the day heats up, but with things closed up, I'm concerned it might be more moist inside than I'd like until I get materials (namely wood) inside that can absorb and release humidity slowly.
Anyway, when it gets to that point I won't be far from getting the foam sprayed so I shouldn't have to have it going for long. Just mostly during the summer and hurricane seasons here in the south.

[o1marc]

Originally Posted by Brewerbob

That doesn't help narrow down your location. I can't remember but it might as well be here. Way too much rain as of late.

Who did you manage this? I still have bits of insulation batting stuck to mine. A broom and sweeping the ceiling will probably remove the batting. I might leave the tar but I do like that nice clean finish you've got there!!


Why? Mine isn't anywhere near airtight. And I open all the windows while working on it. Yours is much more airtight and completely primed/painted (thus not needing dehumidified). Just sounds like wasted effort and electricity to me.

I used a pressure washer to hit the ceiling and it removed all the residual insulation nicely. It removed some of the tar coating also.

[sojourner]

Originally Posted by o1marc

I used a pressure washer to hit the ceiling and it removed all the residual insulation nicely. It removed some of the tar coating also.

I did the same thing. It makes short work of fiberglass insulation and soaks down any glass dust in the process. Then it's just picking up damp cotton candy (only not sticky).

[Brewerbob]

Originally Posted by sojourner

I live in South Carolina

This summer has been pretty much the same in FL, SC, and MD. I've lived in all three.

Check page 74. I give the details of EASY tar removal. I slice off strips in seconds down to bare metal. Just because the tar is there doesn't mean there isn't corrosion lying under it.

I'll go back and check but I'm willing to bet whatever it is won't work. My tar looks like it was sprayed on with a rattle can. Probably a spray gun but it goes from full coverage to "misted" on. It's weird and I'm not sure it's purpose in life. Nowhere near 100% coverage. More like one sweep between ribs. Not even window to window. If it was used as glue to hold the batting up while they riveted the ceiling, there has to be cheaper, thinner, easier to apply glue.

Even with the windows out condensation builds up on the inside and it basically rains every morning. It vents out as the day heats up, but with things closed up, I'm concerned it might be more moist inside than I'd like until I get materials (namely wood) inside that can absorb and release humidity slowly.
Anyway, when it gets to that point I won't be far from getting the foam sprayed so I shouldn't have to have it going for long. Just mostly during the summer and hurricane seasons here in the south.

I've got puddles in my bus from time to time from the actual rain leaking in. I've pulled every window out so none of the sealant/weather stripping stands a chance. The e-windows literally flap in a strong breeze since the locking hardware and buzzers are gone. Then the top row of rivets are missing above the windows.


That is either one hell of a dehumidifier I need or one hell of a dead dehumidifier! Now if I could dehumidify the state and send the water to California and charge them by the gallon.

[Brewerbob]

Originally Posted by o1marc

I used a pressure washer to hit the ceiling and it removed all the residual insulation nicely. It removed some of the tar coating also.

That would require me buying a new pressure whatever it is called for my pressure washer (who uses plastic pistons to produce 2600 psi?!?!) or going down to the truck wash place.


In either case, it's going to wait until I have the roof lifted, new skin put on, and riveted back together. Driving it with all but 4 of the ribs cut might not be a good idea.

[sojourner]

I'll go back and check but I'm willing to bet whatever it is won't work. My tar looks like it was sprayed on with a rattle can. Probably a spray gun but it goes from full coverage to "misted" on. It's weird and I'm not sure it's purpose in life. Nowhere near 100% coverage. More like one sweep between ribs. Not even window to window. If it was used as glue to hold the batting up while they riveted the ceiling, there has to be cheaper, thinner, easier to apply glue.

That's exactly what mine was. It's used to stick up the fiberglass bats while the inner skin is installed.
The oscillating multi-tool tool strips it right off like cutting butter.

[o1marc]

Originally Posted by sojourner

That's exactly what mine was. It's used to stick up the fiberglass bats while the inner skin is installed.
The oscillating multi-tool tool strips it right off like cutting butter.

I agree, the tar spray is just to hold the batt insulation in place while installing ceiling panels. Since we don'y know what it actually is we don't know the cost benefit of it.

[Brewerbob]

Originally Posted by o1marc

I agree, the tar spray is just to hold the batt insulation in place while installing ceiling panels. Since we don'y know what it actually is we don't know the cost benefit of it.

Elmer's glue. Work out a deal with the school you're selling the bus to.