Sojourner

[sojourner]

I was out in Gimel today with Lori and we were discussing the side door location. I was originally thinking of doing the opening immediately ahead of the rear wheel on the right side. We were considering doing it more midway between the front and rear wheels. This would give us a bit more room for the dinette and make the entry technically between the kitchen and dining/living area giving us easy access to either. Bringing in groceries and such would be very easy to load from the outside and we wouldn't be coming directly out of the bedroom/bath to a stairwell.

I'm wondering if it really matters where one places the door as the frame is obviously not being compromised and the body is pretty much one piece resting on the frame. I'm thinking if anything the framing is heavier midships than at the wheel wells anyhow.

Any insights? Those who have framed in doors on the side have any regrets?

[sojourner]

While working on one of my projects I have to get done to clear time and space to work on Gimel I thought I'd stroll over and take a look at the fridge in the travel trailer I have falling apart around itself here. Lori and I have discussed all the options for refrigeration and since we want to be as off grid as possible and be able to boondock if need be the RV unit seemed like a good fit. We hadn't operated it in over 8 years though as the travel trailer (piece of junk it is) has been falling apart as it sits. No, I am not a fan of Terry travel trailers. Anyhow, I was a bit skeptical of whether this unit would actually be any good or not. The first thing I did was bypass the circuit board and hook the 110VAC directly to the heating element to test the cooling unit. I didn't see any signs of leaking or anything like that so I was a bit hopeful. After hooking the power to the element to test, I went inside to open the fridge and see what things looked like in there. When I opened the doors I was not too happy as the shelves had begun rusting. Nothing crazy like falling apart but enough to need to refurbish them totally. Here's some pics of what they look like after removal and disassembly.







Needless to say, a new finish is required. the first step is to get rid of the rust and any of the old electroplating. Time to acid bath. I'm soaking them in muratic acid for a while to get rid of all the rust and hopefully remove the plating. Once stripped they'll go into a phosphoric acid bath to treat for paint. We plan on using duracoat http://www.duracoat-firearm-finishes.com/ on the shelves since it has served us well in harsh use.



The plan is to install the fridge in the galley and instead of venting through the roof use muffin fans and vent out the side like those installed in slide-outs. I really want to keep from cutting any more holes in the roof than absolutely needed.

We want to change out the look of the fridge as well. It's raised wood panels with a strange color beige (putty) trim. Seems this is the only trim color available for this model as well. Does anyone out there have any ideas on the best paint to paint plastic with? I'd like something durable and not prone to scratching off.

Good news on the test of the cooling unit as well. After 12 hours it got to 33 deg.F in the crisper. No problem there with tempss on the outside getting near 90 today.

[Scooternj]

Originally Posted by sojourner

We want to change out the look of the fridge as well. It's raised wood panels with a strange color beige (putty) trim. Seems this is the only trim color available for this model as well. Does anyone out there have any ideas on the best paint to paint plastic with? I'd like something durable and not prone to scratching off.

Krylon always works, especially the primer and paint combo. Otherwise, if you have a local hobby shop, either Testor's Model Master enamel or Tamiya acrylic in the rattlecan, primed and then sealed with a clear top coat (Future usually works very well).

[lornaschinske]

Originally Posted by sojourner

... We want to change out the look of the fridge as well. It's raised wood panels with a strange color beige (putty) trim. Seems this is the only trim color available for this model as well. Does anyone out there have any ideas on the best paint to paint plastic with? I'd like something durable and not prone to scratching off...

I've had good luck using Rustoleum Painter's Touch spray paint. I used the Clear Matte as a primer for the laminate flooring we are putting on the wall. I'm letting the paint cure before we start installing them. I painted the laminate flooring with latex paint (faux finish). I will protect the wall with clear water based poly after installing.

I painted the white freezer (metal not plastic) with Gloss Black Appliance Epoxy. It turned out great. I had painted the soft vinyl coated handle with FlexiDip. But it has peeled off (just like it is supposed too... silly me but it's still on the glass storage jars) so I am going to try something else.

Allow your paint to cure for a week to fully dry top to bottom (or inside to outside). Just because it is "dry to the touch" does not mean it is fully cured. Until it is fully cured it can easily scratched.

[sojourner]

Thanks for the suggestion for paint. Gonna do some tests and yes one needs to allow paint to fully cure. Far too many get impatient. Checked on the parts in the acid bath today and it's working fast on the rust but gonna take a while on the galvanized areas.

[sojourner]

Does anyone out there know where I might get a killer deal on a 4.10 or 3.90 differential for my skoolie? The linecard says it has a N 190 rear axle on it. I have 4.78 gears and while they do alright, I think I can get higher gear set and hold highway speeds easier without running up the rev's.

[wauto]

willing to get greasy?
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All Categories Replacement Ring Gear and Pinion Sets for International Axles



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Replacement for International Number

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S-C435 1665337C91 Gear Set 3.42 FWD N340, X380 & N400

S-A346 1665338C91 Gear Set 3.54 FWD N340, X380 & N400

S-A347 1665339C91 Gear Set 3.73 FWD N340, X380 & N400

S-A348 1665340C91 Gear Set 3.91 FWD N340, X380 & N400

S-A349 1665341C91 Gear Set 4.10 FWD N340, X380 & N400

S-F038 1665344C91 Gear Set 4.78 FWD N340, X380 & N400

S-F039 1665349C91 Gear Set 5.63 FWD N340, X380 & N400

S-F041 1665350C91 Gear Set 6.14 FWD N340, X380 & N400

S-A833 1665357C91 Gear Set 3.54 RR N175, N190, N210, N340, N380 & N400

S-A992 1665358C91 Gear Set 3.73 RR N175, N190, N210, N340, N380 & N400

S-A350 1665359C91 Gear Set 3.91 RR N175, N190, N210, N340, N380 & N400

S-A351 1665360C91 Gear Set 4.10 RR N175, N190, N210, N340, N380 & N400

S-A352 1665361C91 Gear Set 4.44 RR N175, N190, N210, N340, N380 & N400

S-9447 1665363C91 Gear Set 4.78 RR N175, N190, N210, N340, X380 & N400

S-F075 1665365C91 Gear Set 5.11 RR N175, N190, N210, N340, X380 & N400

S-A353 1665367C91 Gear Set 5.38 RR N175, N190, N210, N340, N380 & N400

S-F076 1665368C91 Gear Set 5.63 RR N175, N190, N210, N340, N380 & N400

S-7249 578793C91 Gear Set 5.38 RA30

S-8606 597236C91 Gear Set 3.55 RA351, 355 & 472

S-7250 597237C91 Gear Set 3.73 RA351, 355 & 472

S-7251 597238C91 Gear Set 3.91 RA351, 355 & 472

S-7252 597239C91 Gear Set 4.10 RA351, 355 & 472

S-7253 597240C91 Gear Set 4.44 RA351, 355 & 472

S-7254 597241C91 Gear Set 4.77 RA351, 355 & 472

S-7255 597242C91 Gear Set 5.37 RA351, 355 & 472

S-7256 597243C91 Gear Set 6.14 RA351, 355 & 472

S-7257 597244C91 Gear Set 6.57 RA351, 355 & 472

S-7259 597248C91 Gear Set 3.73 RA474

S-7260 597249C91 Gear Set 3.91 RA474

S-7261 597250C91 Gear Set 4.10 RA474

S-7262 597251C91 Gear Set 4.44 RA474

S-7263 597252C91 Gear Set 4.78 RA474

S-7264 597253C91 Gear Set 5.37 RA474

S-7265 597254C91 Gear Set 6.14 RA474

S-7266 597255C91 Gear Set 6.57 RA474

S-7267 597256C91 Gear Set 7.17 RA474

S-7378 69015R93 Gear Set 7.17 RA30

S-7377 69022R93 Gear Set 6.17 RA30


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[sojourner]

willing to get greasy?

Spent 25 years as a marine technician. Yea, I know greasy and willing to get there to get what I need. Thanks for the info.

Trav.

[sojourner]

A couple questions to those out there who have made changes in their gear ratio's. How much of a change did you make and how did it work out for you? I'm beginning to thing I might need to go 3.73. From what I can tell my rpms would be 1778 at 60mph using http://www.crawlpedia.com/rpm_gear_calculator.htm.

Max torque for my engine is 520@1800.

[sojourner]

Although not directly related to my project in the usual sense of the word I am posting some pics of a few of the projects I had to get finished before I can really get started in earnest. I told myself I could not get heavy into another project until I got some things finished around here. One of the things that's derailed me over the past few years is traveling to various places in the world teaching and building aquaponics systems. The first thing I got done was a 10 barrel half Barrel-ponics system I started 2 years ago and never seemed to get around to finishing. It's Lori's "basil bomb".


The second thing I finished was a 80 barrel half Barrel-Ponics system I started on almost 4 years ago and in a totally other location and configuration. I was planning on building 2 of these this size but instead made raised bed container gardens where they were supposed to be. This system has a 5000 gallon fish tank, 80 barrel half growbeds with over 12 tons of gravel. The entire system operates on a single 175 watt pump. We're hoping to grow crops commercially in it for a restaurant that buys our produce.



The third thing I got done on my list is a solar dehydrator I have been talking about doing for years.



Putting the finishing touches on a roller mill to make our own feed here for our chickens. Hope to have it done by weeks end and then begin working on a car for my youngest daughter who decided she wanted to fix up a Neon I bought for parts. She's about to get an education !!

When I do get a few minuted here and there I'm doing things to get set up for Gimel's transformation. I'm going to try to slip over and at least remove the fridge this week as well. The shelved did not have enough metal to make it through the rust removal in tact. Gonna have to make some new shelves from scratch.

[sojourner]

Been a while since an update on "Gimel". I began salvaging items out of a donor travel trailer we've had for years. The first thing to get pulled was the fridge. I've been going through it (as stated in an earlier post) and just about have it done. I dealt with any rust on the cooling unit (they corrode from the outside, not from the inside0 and painted with a high temp grill paint for the really how sections and some heat resistant brake paint for the rest of it. I salvaged some muffin fans from some old computers I had gathering dust around here and made a cooling fan assembly for the cooling fins on the outside of the unit and a couple small ones hanging from the top of the fridge section to circulate air within the fridge compartment. The shelves were rusted out and just plain shot so I'm using them as patterns to make new ones. The metal should be here by Monday. I spent the better part of a day with some chip brushes, some acid and cleaners getting the rust stains off the plastic on the inside and now it looks brand new (I'll post pics soon). I took out the gaudy raised panel wood panels from the front and painted the putty colored plastic trim on the whole thing. We're going with stainless and black with Cherry wood as the kitchen decor.

The next thing I began attacking is the range. We purchased a 20" Avanti range a while back from a craigslist ad along with a nice stainless steel hood. We're wanting to go as much off grid as possible so the 100 VAC part of it has to go. There were a couple valves stuck so I disassembled the whole top of the stove, pulled the burners, bead blasted the crud and corrosion off them (this range had been in storage uncleaned for a while) and took apart the stuck valves, cleaned and lubed them and reassembled them. I'll remove all the igniter switches before reassembling. The 110V igniter was removed and I ordered a 6 way BBQ grill unit to do the ignition part of the conversion. As it turns out 12VDC oven lights are available for the bulb type in it so we will be able to run the range with only 12VDC.

The jacks I ordered to make my stabilizers came in today and I'll have to disassemble them, shorten them 4" and reassemble. They'll be mounted directly behind the wheels on brackets mounted to the frame rails with access doors built into the new skirts that'll cover the new fuel tanks and under storage, I'm maintaining 17" of ground clearance which will give me under storage 20" high and 26" deep. Within the next week or so I will begin taking off the skirt from the floor down to begin building the fuel tank hangers and stabilizer jack brackets. Metal should be here by Monday as well for that. Things are about to get ugly .

I'll post pics soon.

[sojourner]

I worked on the stabilizer jacks today. I purchased these:
http://www.nueratrailerparts.com/p-5...op-leg-8k.aspx

The problem though is they're too tall for my application. I couldn't find a drop leg jack short enough so I decided to make them. These were 25" tall fully retracted but I need something closer to 20" to not hang down too much from the understorage compartments I will be making.

Here's a pic of the first one I shortened beside the standard height. Since these will be under the floor and inside the outer skin I can't use the crank handle. We'll operate them with a cordless drill and socket to a 3/4" bolt I installed instead of the handle. We can make the final adjustment with a crank handle. This will allow me to keep the stabilizers behind a door that will conceal them.

Here's the pic of the first one beside a standard unit:


I had to disassemble them entirely, cut 4" off the bottom of the outer tube, inner tube, top of the drop leg and the bottom of the screw. The factory handle was made from 1/2" round stock so I used a 1/2" bolt and cross drilled it for the pin for the main drive gear. I took 48 photo's in all (trying to get a step by step thing) but unfortunately a bunch of them were a bit blurry (I really don't like my camera with anything close). So these 2 will have to do. Once I get the brackets made I'll weld mounts to them so they can be removed to repair if need be. Once all is done, everything's going in to be hot dipped galvanized.

Here's after doing all four:

[ol trunt]

Those look plenty substantial. Where along the frame do you plan to put them? Funny how it goes, I pulled 4 cheesy little jacks off a pop up trailer for my shorty Skoolie and had to add 5" to them to make them work . Jack

[sojourner]

They'll be right behind the wheels. I'll be making extensions from the frame rails to mount them to. The extensions will be 20" our from the frame rails giving me a wider footprint. I'll build them from 2" square tubing. Kinda like a ladder truss. There'll be an additional arm to the frame that will make a triangle to secure any forward and backward motion. Once done, there shouldn't be too much visible when retracted fully. Even with the understorage, I'm going to have 17" of ground clearance. The drop leg let's me fill that gap and still have some adjustment. I'll still use a 2x8 for direct connection to the ground.

[sojourner]

Been busy on Gimel the past few days. I finally got he Range finished. It's all converted to 12VDC for the oven light and a BBQ ignitor in place of the 110VAC electronics. The little Avanti range is officially an off grid kinda thing. I got an order of metal so as soon as I get some Argon for my TIG machine, I can get some new shelves made for the fridge and short of the panels for the front I can check that one off the list.
I began this week taking off the two bottom rub rails as well as the bottom sections of skirt from the floor down. I'm reusing the rub rails after modifications so I didn't want to do any damage to them using a grinder to deal with knocking the heads off. This calls for making a new tool (something that I'm always game for) to drill a pilot hole in the top of the rivets. I scrounged around here and fund a short piece of 1" hot rolled round stock. Chucked it up in a lathe and using a valve spring from an old lawnmower engine whipped together this handy dandy rivet head center drill.



Here's what it looks like in the drill:



Pushing down on the tool as I would when pushing the drill motor to center the drill bit to the rivet head to show how the drill pilots through the tool:



This tool let's me basically put a dimple in the center of the top of the rivet:



The next step is drilling the rivet top with a larger bit to weaken the top so it's easy to knock off:



Once all the rivets have been drilled and the heads knocked off, it's just a matter of removing the rub rails.

After removing the rub rails, I found the bottom skirts were in fact welded to the frames in places under the skin lapping over it. Needless to say, this sucked!! The first panels I tried to get loose I sharpened a crowbar and wedged it next to the panel to break the welds and drop the skirt. In case Texas wants half a county of dirt, they can come and get it. My, there's a lot of dirt collected over time in these things. I did finally determine you could drive the rivet shafts through the holes and basically pull the panel out and wiggle it back and forth to break the skirts free. They're not going back anyhow. The plan is to build the framework for understorage which will be 20" from the bottom of the floor channels.

Here's what Gimel looked like when I started:



Here she is looking all ghetto with the skirts removed:

Port



Starboard



Pics look a bit strange as for some reason the right side is chopped off a bit. Weird.

If ll goes well, tomorrow I drop the fuel tank. I'll temp the battery and a 5 gallon fuel can inside to move it around as needed until the new tanks are made and installed.

[crazycal]

Originally Posted by sojourner

Although not directly related to my project in the usual sense of the word I am posting some pics of a few of the projects I had to get finished before I can really get started in earnest. I told myself I could not get heavy into another project until I got some things finished around here. One of the things that's derailed me over the past few years is traveling to various places in the world teaching and building aquaponics systems. The first thing I got done was a 10 barrel half Barrel-ponics system I started 2 years ago and never seemed to get around to finishing. It's Lori's "basil bomb".


The second thing I finished was a 80 barrel half Barrel-Ponics system I started on almost 4 years ago and in a totally other location and configuration. I was planning on building 2 of these this size but instead made raised bed container gardens where they were supposed to be. This system has a 5000 gallon fish tank, 80 barrel half growbeds with over 12 tons of gravel. The entire system operates on a single 175 watt pump. We're hoping to grow crops commercially in it for a restaurant that buys our produce.



The third thing I got done on my list is a solar dehydrator I have been talking about doing for years.



Putting the finishing touches on a roller mill to make our own feed here for our chickens. Hope to have it done by weeks end and then begin working on a car for my youngest daughter who decided she wanted to fix up a Neon I bought for parts. She's about to get an education !!

When I do get a few minuted here and there I'm doing things to get set up for Gimel's transformation. I'm going to try to slip over and at least remove the fridge this week as well. The shelved did not have enough metal to make it through the rust removal in tact. Gonna have to make some new shelves from scratch.

Slacker!!! LOL, those look cool. I'm interested in both projects. Any info?

[sojourner]

Slacker!!! LOL, those look cool. I'm interested in both projects. Any info?

What do you want to know? I'll help anywhere I can.

[bansil]

I so want to take that off road now

[sojourner]

I so want to take that off road now

Not much to get in the way now for sure. Yea, a 4WD set up with fuel tank inside would give these things a whole lot of possibilities for sure. I was amazed at just how much room there appears to be to work with once you get the covers removed. This is gonna be fun!! I'm keeping 17" of ground clearance which is what it technically already has if you measure from the lowest hanging stuff underneath. First thing to build though is the fuel tank mounts (duals) and stabilizers.

[sojourner]

Got the fuel tank, fuel lines and battery cables removed today. I also rerouted the battery cables inside and will do the same with the fuel lines so I can move it around as need be until I get the fuel tanks and new battery box built. Battery box will be after getting a door framed in the side which will happen after getting the fuel tanks in. This thing reminds me of my dog with all the parts off it. I have a (mostly) Great Pyrenees that when dry looks like quite a large dog. When he goes swimming, however, you discover he's basically a whippet with a thick coat.