Sojourner

[cadillackid]

in Ohio any white forward facing lights above the hood line have to be covered.. the Jeepers run into the issue all the time... in general they havent yet bugged anyone about the skinny LED light bars as they dont "look like lights".. but the round 'KC style' lights above the windshield used to draw traffic stops unless you put the covers on them... yours are pretty obvious and look almost like emergency lights which in ohio and PA for sure would definitelty draw attention by the staties here... other states i have no idea..

-Christopher

[EastCoastCB]

Every car, truck, and vehicle here in my area with a "salt life" sticker has one.
They seem to be standard on lifted 2wd trucks.

[sojourner]

Originally Posted by cadillackid

in Ohio any white forward facing lights above the hood line have to be covered.. the Jeepers run into the issue all the time... in general they havent yet bugged anyone about the skinny LED light bars as they dont "look like lights".. but the round 'KC style' lights above the windshield used to draw traffic stops unless you put the covers on them... yours are pretty obvious and look almost like emergency lights which in ohio and PA for sure would definitelty draw attention by the staties here... other states i have no idea..

-Christopher

I have no problem doing a cover on them in the future if need be. Interesting website on states regs here (Ohio in particular):

Ohio Lift Laws | Vehicle Modification Rules

[sojourner]

Been making slow but good progress. I finally got the battery mounted in the floor between the wheel wells. The battery bracket (unseen in this photo) is made from 2-1/2" x 5/16" angle iron and bridges the frame rails just above and behind the front driveshaft yoke. HEAVY DUTY, to say the least. I used a NOCO HM484 Battery box to keep the battery dry and happy. It took a bit of doing to get everything just right before cutting into the floor. I also made a trim ring to add additional strength to the opening but when I cut into it, the floor is still rock solid!! I still have to countersink the holes in it and prep and prime before I'm ready to install it but the picture shows the general idea. There's plenty of ventilation for any gasses to blow away. The hatch to access the battery will be in the center walkway of the galley with all hardware flush with the floor. The top of the battery box is just below the level of the metal subfloor. The best part is, I was able to cut off almost 6ft. of 4/0 battery cable from the original! No voltage drop to this battery, no sir!!



Speaking of metal sub floor. I dropped by the PPG place in town today and talked to the guys about how to best seal and prime the galvanized metal I'm sheeting the storage bay and window areas with. They recommended a product called AMERLOCK and from what I can tell it's the thing to use. Not only will it bite into the galvanized metal, it'll also treat and stop the rust that may have made it's way through. Sounds like a perfect product to use on my floors once I get all the loose scale off and wire brush. A three gallon kit ($165.00) covers 1600 sq. ft. It's marine grade material (one of the benefits of living near a port) and tough as tough!! Still a ways off from painting but I do need to deal with the sub floor once things dry up around here (been raining on and off for days).

Looking into finish coats as well. We're not trying to have a super high gloss finish since I'm going for a mostly utility look on the exterior of our bus. I'm far more interested in tough longevity than something I need to fuss over continuously. Still looking at something like Monstaliner for the area just below the floors where the storage bays are. For the general body (and bumper and exterior mods I've made) something like PPG PSX700 is getting my "like" button right now. For the roof, something like Ames® Maximum-Stretch™ seems to be the ticket (especially for dealing with potential leaks before they develop). Comments please if any of you have had any experience with any of these products. Also, still unsettled on a color scheme. I really like the idea of a Coyote tan, black for trim and white for the top. Lori would like something a bit more on the green side. We'd both like something that would not be too "standoutish" and look good while boondocking. Hard to imagine what it'll ultimately look like though. Wish I knew how to get a line drawing to play around with some different color schemes.

I did finally get the headlights all wired in with heavy wires (8AWG) and 40 amp relays wired directly into the battery. I'm using the original circuit to control the new relays so nothing will be overloaded. The new lights are H4 90/105 watt Halogen lights to fit the 4x6 stock lights (35 watt). BIG improvement over stock (which were just short of dangerous, in my opinion).







Getting closer to installing an RV door midships!! Scary stuff ahead!!

[TAOLIK]

Just got myself caught up with your build, really amazing fabrication. I look forward to seeing you do the rest of your build. It's certainly in it's own league!

[sojourner]

Originally Posted by TAOLIK

Just got myself caught up with your build, really amazing fabrication. I look forward to seeing you do the rest of your build. It's certainly in it's own league!

Thanks. I gotta tell ya though, I'll sure be glad when this is done. These kind of projects go WAY slower than one anticipates.

[sojourner]

Just lettin' everyone know I haven't died or anything like that. Took a job out of state and hope to bring the project with me this spring when roads clear. Can't wait to get my hands back in it in what little spare time I have these days.

[EastCoastCB]

I figured you were super busy!
I'm not looking forward to summer, man. THat's my busy time.

[sojourner]

Originally Posted by EastCoastCB

I figured you were super busy!
I'm not looking forward to summer, man. THat's my busy time.

Yea, summers are brutal in the south!! NOT a fan. Winters are very nice though.

[sojourner]

Hello everyone. Just thinking of the modifications needed to install RV windows. Can anyone think of a reason to keep the drip rail over the windows since I'm going to need to cut into it in some places to frame in windows. When I re-skin the area where the windows are now, I could simply rivet through the old holes into the new skin to tie it all together. None of the windows are going to end up in the radius area anyhow so there shouldn't be a gap at the top of the window. the water should be able to simply drain off the roof down the side. Just thinking out loud. Shoot me down if you can think of a reason why not (other than about 12,000 rivets holding it on LOL)

[cowlitzcoach]

Drip rails add some structural rigidity to the body.

A local school district prefers Blue Bird bodies. They have had a continual problem of the "eyebrows" over the some of the windows. They tend to tear at the corners of the "eyebrows" as a result of flexing (the district is more than 60% gravel roads).

In order to combat the flexing they spe'c their Blue Bird buses with an additional rub rail that is installed above the "eyebrows".

Thomas and IC buses have no need for reinforcing because the drip rail acts as a reinforcing member. As a result the body won't flex and tear body panels.

As to whether or not you will need that extra reinforcing I have no idea. But I would tend to think that cutting the drip rail is not the best idea out there.

[Bluespoet]

you didn't ask, but just thought a general idea gathering about the roof repair. I would pop rivet a patch then use bondo and paint, how are you going to repair it? It could be an invisible repair. Another idea along that line Eastman auto tools have a flanger, so that you cut out the damaged area, flange the edges of the hole, drop in the repair sheet metal and pop rivet to the flanged ends which results in a flush repair.

[sojourner]

Originally Posted by cowlitzcoach

Drip rails add some structural rigidity to the body.

A local school district prefers Blue Bird bodies. They have had a continual problem of the "eyebrows" over the some of the windows. They tend to tear at the corners of the "eyebrows" as a result of flexing (the district is more than 60% gravel roads).

In order to combat the flexing they spe'c their Blue Bird buses with an additional rub rail that is installed above the "eyebrows".

Thomas and IC buses have no need for reinforcing because the drip rail acts as a reinforcing member. As a result the body won't flex and tear body panels.

As to whether or not you will need that extra reinforcing I have no idea. But I would tend to think that cutting the drip rail is not the best idea out there.

I'm wondering then if it wouldn't then be a good idea to install a drip rail above the windows in the new location? I would only be needing to raise the location not more than about 4" from the current location.

[sojourner]

Originally Posted by Bluespoet

you didn't ask, but just thought a general idea gathering about the roof repair. I would pop rivet a patch then use bondo and paint, how are you going to repair it? It could be an invisible repair. Another idea along that line Eastman auto tools have a flanger, so that you cut out the damaged area, flange the edges of the hole, drop in the repair sheet metal and pop rivet to the flanged ends which results in a flush repair.

Here's how I plan to do this. First, I am removing all the stock windows, framing in the new window openings with 1-1/2" square tubing and re skinning the entire area under the top edge and over the bottom just under the rub rail. I have some 17ga. galvanized sheet for this already. The area where it slips under the existing top sheeting would then be riveted through the original holes (drilling on through the sheet underneath) either with closed pop rivets or solid rivets like the factory uses. The plan is to then put an semi flexible elastomeric coating on top to seal things even better. The windows will have sealer of their own.

[sojourner]

Got a question on brakes that someone might be able to answer.
Looking at the lineset of our bus (VIN# 4DRGSACN9SA06341) I see these designations on the brakes:

04 N04B 0004161 BRAKES, FRT AIR CAM 16.5 X 5 Q
04 N04C 0004273 REAR BRAKES, AIR CAM 16.5"X7" W/30 SQ IN MGM SPRING ACTUATED

The Axles are as follows:
02 N02A 0002ADE FRONT AXLE 1-BEAM TYPE 14,000 LB CAPACITY
14 N14A 0014ADC REAR AXLE, SGL(INTL N-190) SGL REDUCTION 19,000 LB CAPACITY

I'm trying to find the correct brake kits to service the brakes. I want to make sure I order the correct set since I'm 600 miles away from the project and want to get everything sent in so I can work on it while back home. Where can I get the numbers for the kits with some assurance I have the correct numbers? I've tried two different International dealers and none of them will return my emails or phone calls. Frustrating!!

[cadillackid]

I know you arent in columbus Ohio. but Rush Truck centers in Columbus is an IOHC dealer that I deal with.. i call thedir parts dept with my VIN number and they tell me what parts i need.. I do buy some parts from them but not all...

once you get the OEM part numnber you can cross it to an aftermarket..
-Christopher

[sojourner]

Originally Posted by cadillackid

I know you arent in columbus Ohio. but Rush Truck centers in Columbus is an IOHC dealer that I deal with.. i call thedir parts dept with my VIN number and they tell me what parts i need.. I do buy some parts from them but not all...

once you get the OEM part numnber you can cross it to an aftermarket..
-Christopher

I'm working for an injection molding company in Adams County these days. We should find a way to get together. I'm hoping to bring Gimel up to work on in my spare time this spring.

[cadillackid]

Originally Posted by sojourner

I'm working for an injection molding company in Adams County these days. We should find a way to get together. I'm hoping to bring Gimel up to work on in my spare time this spring.

im back N forth between st pete fl and C-bus alot.. I drive my bus everywhere.. would be great to meet up. of course im in st pete while its cold in C-bus...

-Christopher

[sojourner]

Originally Posted by cadillackid

im back N forth between st pete fl and C-bus alot.. I drive my bus everywhere.. would be great to meet up. of course im in st pete while its cold in C-bus...

-Christopher

Cool. Keep in touch.

[Stewzer55]

Adams County Ohio?