Sojourner

[sojourner]

Been thinking lately about options for A/C in the cab of Gimel. I’m considering doing a 9000btu roof mount and powering it with an inverter (powered by the engine main battery and only able to operate while the engine is running) and upfitting the alternator to keep it fed while running. Our cab area will be closed off due to we have a front galley design and cabinet’s will make it easy to do so.
Any thoughts?
Also, considering removing the seriously oversized heater up front and ducting a diesel fired forced air unit to do cab heat and defrost, just have to figure out a clever outside air mix to control temperature of air blowing out.

[cowlitzcoach]

Originally Posted by sojourner

Been thinking lately about options for A/C in the cab of Gimel. I’m considering doing a 9000btu roof mount and powering it with an inverter (powered by the engine main battery and only able to operate while the engine is running) and upfitting the alternator to keep it fed while running. Our cab area will be closed off due to we have a front galley design and cabinet’s will make it easy to do so.
Any thoughts?
Also, considering removing the seriously oversized heater up front and ducting a diesel fired forced air unit to do cab heat and defrost, just have to figure out a clever outside air mix to control temperature of air blowing out.

Why go to the expense of a diesel fired heater? I get you think the front heater/defroster is going to be way too big for a cab not much larger than a truck cab. But it is already there and works. Diesel fired heaters like Espar or Webasto units are expensive and not especially reliable. They are famous for burning buses to the ground.



As far as a 110-VAC A/C unit, I can see where you are going with it but I think you will have a hard time keeping the cab comfortable with a unit that small. When you go down the road you will have a lot of air intrusion from outside that will work against your A/C unit. You also have a huge amount of greenhouse glass that will put a strain on the A/C unit as well. I have driven many motorcoaches that when new cost close to a $1 million that had HVAC systems that could barely keep the driver's compartment tolerable if you were heading into the sun on a hot afternoon. Same road heading the opposite direction at the same time with the same outside ambient temperature and the driver's compartment would get almost chilly.


I think perhaps you need to rethink your A/C system.

[FuzzWantsABus]

Originally Posted by sojourner

Been thinking lately about options for A/C in the cab of Gimel. I’m considering doing a 9000btu roof mount and powering it with an inverter (powered by the engine main battery and only able to operate while the engine is running) and upfitting the alternator to keep it fed while running. Our cab area will be closed off due to we have a front galley design and cabinet’s will make it easy to do so.
Any thoughts?
Also, considering removing the seriously oversized heater up front and ducting a diesel fired forced air unit to do cab heat and defrost, just have to figure out a clever outside air mix to control temperature of air blowing out.

I too am closing off my cab from the rest of the build. I took out all of the original heating for the bus, and put this back in. It's simple to install and not super expensive. It'd take care of your heating, anyway, though notsomuch your cooling. I got an expansion kit that will let me run a Y from the heater unit to the defroster inputs. I'm probably going to install "normal" car air conditioning at some point, since the cab area is tiny.


https://smile.amazon.com/Flex-a-lite...dp/B000CNJBPU/

[BusT]

How solid does the storage feel ? I’ve considered using something thicker then 1/8th but they gave me a free double load of my order for 1.5x1.5 1/8th
Do you ever think you should of went with something heavier

[BusT]

Hey I’m bouncing back and forth on moving my entry door ...
I cut out the skins and the floor at 28w
24 deep into the bus ....
And thinking of 21 down and leave maybe and inch for a pull out step....
The thing is 24 seems it’s taking up a lot of real estate in the bus....
I tacked out of 12g a stair case together that’s 21high 24deep and 28w ....

I’m thinking I want angles now to make it feel like the stairs are taking up less room...
then notch out my floor joist to fit the brace like you did holding up the stairs ....
How deep into your bus did you cut?
Does it fee like the stairs are intruding ?

I also made it a box so I can hinge my one stair up and have space.... That’s a 12in Landing . 10in rise another 12in landing that’s a removable storage box and 10in rise to the bus floor ....
By the time I add my insulation and subfloor my top step with be 2.5 higher .... so that’s kinda throwing me off ....

I might go with the 8 in run . By 7 rise ... then have that be a hinged storage .... 8d 7h and 28w
Then next step will be

[sojourner]

As far as the storage material thickness, I have yet to put the panels in. They'll be one of the last things in as I will be doing wiring and plumbing under the floor above the storage boxes and don't want to build myself into a corner.

Concerning the stepwell putting my door midships, I'd have to measure it to get an exact dimension but I encroached within an inch of the frame. It will not affect much due to my projected floorplan. To the immediate right of the stepwell is the location of the refrigerator (and galley) so there'll be a wall and no traffic flow on that side of the center isle. Immediately to the left will be the living dining area.

[BusT]

Originally Posted by sojourner

As far as the storage material thickness, I have yet to put the panels in. They'll be one of the last things in as I will be doing wiring and plumbing under the floor above the storage boxes and don't want to build myself into a corner.

Concerning the stepwell putting my door midships, I'd have to measure it to get an exact dimension but I encroached within an inch of the frame. It will not affect much due to my projected floorplan. To the immediate right of the stepwell is the location of the refrigerator (and galley) so there'll be a wall and no traffic flow on that side of the center isle. Immediately to the left will be the living dining area.

Kind of the same floor plan I’m going for
Either fridge or sink immediately to the left and the dining and convertible bed and storage up front ...

I switched up the stairs too two steps??? It’s a box with fake 45s on top step to save room inside and maybe be fixtures for entry way lighting .

The pictures might look a little familiar to you because I like using as many good ideas as possible and your a great craftsman ...

In regards to actual storage boxes for under bus storage . I’m not there yet but have bought 120ft of 1.5 x 1.5 x1/8 angle ...
I was asking in the post above if that feels sturdy enough . I know so truck styled under storage lockers use 3/16 or so.... hoping to use the angle to attach sheets but am thinking some kind of square tubing frame would be stronger....

Also I want the stairway to have a drawer on the bottom step and maybe a lid that hinges on the top step..

I haven’t started on storage for underbody yet and have to build my own door and frame and started kind of opposite unlike you by making the stairs before a frame ...

Here’s the stairs
I’m also getting ready to cut chair rail but see your door frame is flush with the stairs

I have to come up with a way not to frame these stairs out, and where to cut frame rail...
Not sure if you can see what I mean by your door frame being flush with your stairs...
And mine already built I might have to go an inch or so further I to the bus

[sojourner]

It's been a while since my last post. Been a lot of things going on but we've refocused on Gimel and starting to make what headway we can.
A few weeks ago I fabbed brackets for our roof vent and A/C mounting. Had them blasted and primed at work and got them welded in and the wood spacers installed.








All I'll have to do is cut the roof panel when it's time to install the A/C units and vents.

[sojourner]

I've started rebuilding the windows. No pic of all the parts disassembled but I'll clean, treat and do a conversion process on the aluminum parts prior to painting the frames. I talked to a glass shop and we'll be putting tinted glass in the frames. No one makes the seals for the windows anymore so I'll have to mount them with spacers and a special silicone for glazing commercial windows. The mountings for the windows in the bus is another project altogether. There's no way bus windows will ever seal with the stock weatherstripping scheme. Here's the open gaps with all the weatherstrip removed:





Time to rethink this whole thing yet keep the school bus windows.


The first thing to do is epoxy the gap fillers into place and seal from under and over:





Next grind off the lip of the bottom window frame:





Fit 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" x 1/8" aluminum angle with one side cut down to 15/16" to create a new window sill plate that closes the gaps:





Prime before final assembly:






The window frames have a notch cut that will rest on top of the new sill plate.


Drill sill plates, generously seal with polyurethane sealer and rivet new sill to modified factory one. Pic after cleanup of squeeze out:





More pics to come next week after I finish the other seven. Ran out of time in this heat to do more today.

[sojourner]

With the tropical storm passing through, I thought it'd be a good time to check the window sill mods for leaks. The one I sealed up, I'm happy to say, is dry as a bone!! I haven't even finished it either. Excited to have a system I won't have to worry about.

[BusT]

How’s the bus coming along now ?

[sojourner]

Haven't been posting much due to work ( I work 50+ hrs a week and have an hour+ commute both ways). I have been working on my build when I can though. Here's the latest development.
I just finished the dash panel instrument cluster on my build. I'm replacing the totally lame cluster on my AmTran Genesis. Having grown up the son of a truck driver, there's just not enough information so I built one to suit me. I'll remove the stock cluster and this panel will fit an adapter box I made that bolts to the existing console in its place. The adapter box brings three gauges to a better angle for visibility.
This panel has:
Tach.
Spedo.
Pyrometer.
Dual fuel gauges (I installed dual 70 gallon fuel tanks).
Mechanical oil pressure and temperature.
Air cleaner restriction.
Transmission temperature.
Engine oil temperature.
Dual air gauge (primary and secondary all in one).
Manifold boost.
Voltmeter.
Ignition switch.
Parking brake valve.
Headlight switch.
Dual wiper switches (one with wash function).
Turn indicators.
High beam indicator.
LED dimmer for gauge lighting.

It took some time buying the gauges and switches one at a time as I could afford them (best deals found at Summit Racing Equipment). Gauges are all Stewart Warner Deluxe with the exception of a Murphy air filter flow restriction gauge. All switches are Cole Hersey.

[cadillackid]

SW gauges are my favorites !!’ Love them !!

[s2mikon]

Nice job! They can save your butt. You never have enough gauges. I'm up to 22 now.

[Oscar1]

Originally Posted by sojourner

Haven't been posting much due to work ( I work 50+ hrs a week and have an hour+ commute both ways). I have been working on my build when I can though. Here's the latest development.
I just finished the dash panel instrument cluster on my build. I'm replacing the totally lame cluster on my AmTran Genesis. Having grown up the son of a truck driver, there's just not enough information so I built one to suit me. I'll remove the stock cluster and this panel will fit an adapter box I made that bolts to the existing console in its place. The adapter box brings three gauges to a better angle for visibility.
This panel has:
Tach.
Spedo.
Pyrometer.
Dual fuel gauges (I installed dual 70 gallon fuel tanks).
Mechanical oil pressure and temperature.
Air cleaner restriction.
Transmission temperature.
Engine oil temperature.
Dual air gauge (primary and secondary all in one).
Manifold boost.
Voltmeter.
Ignition switch.
Parking brake valve.
Headlight switch.
Dual wiper switches (one with wash function).
Turn indicators.
High beam indicator.
LED dimmer for gauge lighting.

It took some time buying the gauges and switches one at a time as I could afford them (best deals found at Summit Racing Equipment). Gauges are all Stewart Warner Deluxe with the exception of a Murphy air filter flow restriction gauge. All switches are Cole Hersey.

Very nice workmanship, that’s going to look fantastic mounted

[sojourner]

About 4 weeks ago new management was brought in and the new director decided he wanted his peeps in my position. It looks like I've now got a bunch of spare time to get back on Gimel. My wife says finishing the bus is my new full time job !! While getting a few projects out of the way before going full time on my build I steal away and get some small things done for the bus.
One project is upgrading the Maxxfan deluxe ventilators I bought from basic exhaust only 4 speed to reversible infinite speed control. For about $20 in parts (PWM motor controller and a couple switches (push button on/off and 3 position DPDT rocker) I now have full control over my fans direction and speed.
Here are a couple pics of the bezel with the new parts installed.

[musigenesis]

Pretty cool. I'd be interested in seeing more details on how you modded the MaxxAir. I also have just the basic 4-speed.

[sojourner]

Originally Posted by musigenesis

Pretty cool. I'd be interested in seeing more details on how you modded the MaxxAir. I also have just the basic 4-speed.

I didn't record this step by step due to time limitations but to put it simply, you have to remove the factory circuit boards and connections to the fan motor. Bring in power to a PWM (Pulse Width Modulation) motor speed controller (I used a 6-90vdc 15amp unit) through an on/off switch (I used a push button type rated at 20 amps/12vdc). Coming out of the PWM to feed the motor I used a DPDT rocker switch wired to reverse the polarity to change fan direction. The specifics of mounting will be determined by the components used. I did have to trim away some of the heat sink fins on the PWM circuit board to clear the motor wiring cover screw.

Hope this helps. There's YouTubes out there that deal with speed control reversing mods to RV roof fans.

[sojourner]

Originally Posted by musigenesis

Pretty cool. I'd be interested in seeing more details on how you modded the MaxxAir. I also have just the basic 4-speed.

Another simpler option is to keep the 4 speed (doing the PWM required making most of the mods) and wire in the fan motor power from the circuit board to a polarity reversing switches like the ones linked below. I'd mount the switch on the blank corner nearest the control panel as there's no obstructions underneath that area. CAREFULLY cut a square hole per the switch dimensions.
On either switch the positive and negative leads from the circuit board would connect to the two leads connected to the center terminals of the switch. It doesn't matter which one is which. Just positive on one and negative on the other. The other two leads coming from one end of the switch go to the motor itself. Once again it doesn't really matter which one is positive or negative.



This one is either or:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/IndusTec-Ma...-127632-2357-0

This one had a center "off" position:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/InusTec-DC-...-127632-2357-0

[sojourner]

I just realized there was some things being done and developments I hadn't posted.
First, a few months back I did some major work on the drive train. With the help of a truck mechanic neighbor, I replaced all brake drums, brake shoes,slack adjusters & wheel seals. On the trip home when I picked up the bus I developed a leak in the right rear wheel seal. As a result, the bearing didn't look optimal to me so I replaced that rear wheel bearing set while I had it down. Replaced the differential lube and repacked the front wheel bearings too. I worked at a company that did container chassis refurbs and was able to acquire new rims to go along with new tires. I put recaps on the drive axle and new tires on the steers. This also gave me the opportunity to learn how to dismount and mount tires (a skill I think every skoolie owner should learn especially if using truck tires (11R 22.5's)).
The tire tools I purchased were like these and they worked beautifully:


https://www.amazon.com/JAXPETY-VD-42...48934119&psc=1


https://www.amazon.com/Honhill-Break...%2C170&sr=1-12


New upper management was installed at the company I helped build (I was employee #1) and the new guy wanted his guy in my position so I was let go June 7th. My wife and family was very glad for me as they had seen the stress affecting me I apparently could not see. I actually enjoyed my job but it did require long hours which left very little time to do actual work on our build. My wife informed me my new job is to get this bus finished.
So, after getting some things done on our place that had been neglected, I'm now spending my time working on Gimel.


I've not began working on the interior until I've got the drive train fully serviced and ready. I've been planning on installing an auxiliary transmission to give us an overdrive behind the MT643. In order to make room for the transmission mounts between the frame rails I had to relocate the brake system air drier. I moved it rearward to a serviceable location where I formerly was going to install a homebrew basement AC (made from a window unit AC). I decided to go with dual rooftop AC units and this created some spare space. Having cleared the area I began tearing down the Spicer 7231D and found a problem I did not see before. The clutch dogs were worn beyond my comfort level so this part of the build is on hold until I can locate some replacement parts. I was waiting to replacing the u-joints and carrier bearings until I did the aux. install since I'd have to make modifications to the driveshaft. Now became the time to do the u-joints. I've changed literally thousands of u-joints over the course of my marine technician career while servicing stern drives. All of these were much smaller parts than the SPL90's on this driveshaft. I purchased a tool that made this operation a relative breeze. If you have to do this kind of work, I highly suggest getting this kind of tool:





Notice in the background my 3/4" cordless impact. If you don't have one of these and can afford it, I highly recommend. Couldn't have done this job reasonable without this impact and the u-joint tool. Two things WELL WORTHY THE MONEY!!






My apologies for these pics not rotated .


When servicing a multi section driveshaft one needs to keep everything in order that it came out and timing noted and marked for proper reassembly.
I painted timing stripes on the shafts prior to disassembly and kept everything laid out on the shop floor in order to easily reinstall.
Here's a pic of the fully serviced driveshaft (with new u-joints and carrier bearings installed).






To be continued.......