Some Progress

[Mr_Geenie]

First, the roof was washed (scrubbed with a deck brush and power washer) with trisodium phosphate (TSP). Then came resealing the emergency roof exits, and 2 coats of Henry Tropicool 887.
I removed most of my 28" windows (ok, the windows themselves are about 26.5"...it's 28" from mounting screwhole to mounting screwhole) and built panels out of 18 gauge steel, 2x4s and plywood which all got primer on all sides before assembly and installation.

All my rust has been ground out, treated with Rust Mort and fibreglasssed over. The reflective tape on my bus was applied with some kind of bondo or very thick glue which required uncounted hours with a grinder with an 80 grit flapper disc to remove. Then came building back up the surface to be even with the rest of the paint. More hours of body puddy, sanding, filler-primer, more sanding, more primer, more sanding. Somewhere along the way my local glass shop cut me a new windshield to replace one that caught a rock.

Once everything was (mostly) even it was time for... More sanding! This time of all the yellow paint (or, more accurately the clear coat on top of the yellow paint) in prep for spraying all the primer and paint with 2 coats of automotive sealer so I have a uniform color to paint my color coat onto.

Every time I think I am ready for the paint booth I find another thing to do. I was going to seal the wall panels after painting, however after a cold snap (Did I mention I am living in the bus full time while converting and working 40+ hours a week?) I decided to use a paintable lap sealant before painting.
My experiment with spray foam insulation was a complete failure. I tried spraying one panel, and it made such a mess I was going to give up and try rigid insulation.
Until I read that spray foam insulation does not stick to wax paper. So I made a jig that bolted to the frame, and I could spray the foam in and let it expand. That is not what happened. There was not enough air or moisture or something for the foam to cure.
The instructions said it would be firm in 10 minutes and cure over night. So an hour after I sprayed it in I removed the jig and the uncured foam glooped down the wall, and now I have one zombie goop wall I get to clean up somehow. Inside I have 90% of the demolition amd removal done. All the seats out, most of the vinyl floor ripped out, handicap restraint rails drilled out and removed.

I have most of my conversion stuff ready to go... 50 amp inlet box, 50 amp in-line surge protector, 50 amp service cord, water inlet box with city line and tank fill connections, water pump, tankless propane water heater, fresh water tank, black water tank, outside shower box, propane stove/oven, propane or 110V refrigerator, leveling jacks, sewer line.

Still a LOT of work to do, but the finish line is getting closer.

[TaliaDPerkins]

Hi, Could you please tell me the ambient temperature and temp of the foam containers, their expiration date, ambient humidity? Things that might explain the failure?
Color consistency, when sprayed?

[Mr_Geenie]

Originally Posted by TomDPerkins

Hi, Could you please tell me the ambient temperature and temp of the foam containers, their expiration date, ambient humidity? Things that might explain the failure?
Color consistency, when sprayed?

I ised GE Insulating Foam Gaps & Cracks expanding foam for up to 1" gaps. It was between 70 and 80 degrees F with probably 25-40% humidity (south texas on the coast) the manufacture date on the case I bought was 06/04/2021. It came out a pale yellowish white color.

I did the entire panel in one shot. I think the lack of air flow and the volume of material I sprayed is what caused the problem. If I try again, I will spray one small row at a time, let it cure for an hour or two before adding another layer. Seems time intensive. I was planning on getting 3/4" rigid insulation and making 2 layers to fill my 1.5" air gap on all my panels.

[Rochey6957]

I dont really think your using the right product for your insulation. You used the small 16oz spray can correct? I dont think that is really meant to be built up the way your thinking. I know you were probably trying to test and only wanted a small volume. Look into the larger 2 part kits. Names like tiger foam, foam it green, Dow froth pack, etc. You want closed cell foam too. There is always the option of hiring a local pro installer.

https://www.grainger.com/product/48W...B&gclsrc=aw.ds -----12sqft of material coverage


https://tigerfoam.com/sprayfoaminsul...oard-foot-kit/ -----200bdft kit


Do some more research on the spray foam. Lots of folks have DIY spray foamed their busses with the products listed above.

If you go rigid board you have two choices. XPS or PolyIso.... PolyIso has a higher R-Value but doesn't preform as well in the cold as it does to heat.... XPS has a slightly lower R value but preforms comparable in each condition.

[Mr_Geenie]

If I realized how many cans of primer this would end up taking, I would have bought a gallon of real primer from PPG and saved myself a lot of frustration.
I don't have reliable access to an air compressof right now. So the cans let me keep working while waiting on a time spot in the garage. (No idea why some of my pictures get flipped upside down)

[TaliaDPerkins]

Thank you!

[747mech]

Where in Texas are you? I'm in north Ft. Worth. I'm doing a roof raise. I have 6 "jack screws" in place and am cutting all the hat channel tomorrow. Front and rear of the bus are already prepped.

[Mr_Geenie]

After countless hours of sanding, grinding, body puddy, fiberglass, primer and then more sanding... Today all the remaining windows got taped up, one last 400 grit hand said, the hood came off and she got sprayed with a coat of sealer, and 3 coats of Toyota's Voodoo Blue automotive paint.
Total cost from yellow with windows to blue with steel blank out panels came in right at $1,500 and 80-100 hours of labor doing everything by myself (The steel shop cut the steel panels to size, then I fabricated the panels.)

[Mr_Geenie]

Originally Posted by 747mech

Where in Texas are you? I'm in north Ft. Worth. I'm doing a roof raise. I have 6 "jack screws" in place and am cutting all the hat channel tomorrow. Front and rear of the bus are already prepped.

On the coast, south of Galveston. Arlington native, but left dfw long time ago.

[ol trunt]

It looks very nice. I like the medium blue with the white top.
Jack

[Mr_Geenie]

In daylight with the hood back on.