Supercoach_Skoolie

[Willie_McCoy]

Under the polished exterior lay a few dozen projects left to complete. First is the main AC and DC power distribution panel. I went with a RV style after toying with some Square D's and a few blue sea systems. It was just so neat, compact and easy to install. Plus a lot cheaper.





I used the savings to buy a brother Heat Shrink Label Maker, it is awesome. Ive been labeling stuff all over the place with it, in the bus, the Jeeps, even in the house as I do projects. And yes, I have since shrunk the heat shrink.





The bus is designed to handle long term boondocking, and as a result most of my circuits are on the 12v side of things. I do have a standard 30a shore power inlet for 120v which runs the plugs and fridge, but all the lighting, WH, and 12v outlets run without it.


Next we are on to the LP distribution system. This is the original setup I put together last year for a quick 3 day trip to NH in the fall.



Proof of concept so to speak. Stove cranks out the heat.



I have since rebuilt most of it, adding 2 more connections for the Generator and the water heater. I used black iron for the "manifold" with Gastite Flashshield CSST for the stove, genny, and the quick disconect setup for the grill, as well as flared copper for the water heater. Ill add some pics of that and the grill setup in the future.

Here she is last fall up around Sutton NH for a 3 day trip. Apple picking and whatnot.





Not sure if I mentioned the downlights for the kitchen countertop, they are pretty effective.



This was Halloween last year, dressed her up a bit and shuttled the neighborhood kids into town for some trick or treating.

[Tejon7]

Loving the updates and pics. Keep'em coming! Your bumperette teeth and emblems look fantastic!

Originally Posted by Willie_McCoy

I do, I already have the hitch and have begun cobbling it together. I have decided to engage an actual fabricator to help though, I dont want my crappy welds coming loose on the highway. I bought a 2000 Jeep XJ just to be the toad.

I'm 1/2 step behind you on the same path. I also just bought an old Jeep for a toad, and an engineer I know is drawing up plans for my hitch now.

Originally Posted by Willie_McCoy

I am governed at about 2250 as well. I may have a slightly taller rear end to compensate for the 5 speeds lack of gearing options vs the 10 speed. Is yours a RT910? There is a gear swap you can do to that to get OD in 10th without changing the tranny.

Mine is an RT11610 with 1:1 10th, but I'll look into that gear swap if (when) 65mph in a 13 ton breadbox ever starts to feel boring thanks for the suggestion!

[Willie_McCoy]

Originally Posted by Tejon7

I'm 1/2 step behind you on the same path. I also just bought an old Jeep for a toad, and an engineer I know is drawing up plans for my hitch now.

I would be interested to see what he comes up with. Im not looking to put any tongue weight on mine, just straight line pull for a toad so I think just reinforcing the bottom of the trunk should be sufficient. I would like to avoid any tie ins through the trunk as that will kill the storage in there.

Originally Posted by Tejon7

Mine is an RT11610 with 1:1 10th, but I'll look into that gear swap if (when) 65mph in a 13 ton breadbox ever starts to feel boring thanks for the suggestion!

I’m not sure the gear change works in the RT11610, but it probably does. Its likely an updated version of the same box as the RT910 with a beefier main shaft to handle the additional 200ft/lbs, but would need to do some research to confirm. I will say that there were a few times out west, Hwy 212 in MT/SD and a few others come to mind where 60mph felt like standing still and I would have been fine with 75 in my breadbox. Longest, straightest stretch of empty road I’ve ever been on.

[Tejon7]

Originally Posted by Willie_McCoy

I would be interested to see what he comes up with. Im not looking to put any tongue weight on mine, just straight line pull for a toad so I think just reinforcing the bottom of the trunk should be sufficient. I would like to avoid any tie ins through the trunk as that will kill the storage in there.

Same here - I told him I wanted to tow a max 6000 lb vehicle with all four wheels down. He started talking in Greek, using words like "moment" and I became confused and flustered and just let him do his thing. The general plan is to tie into the rear of the frame using those 4 large bolts at the back of the trunk. I will be losing some trunk space as you mentioned, which I'm not thrilled about, but it's probably necessary because of the 6k lb number that I told him. I'd imagine towing a ~3000 lb XJ would be fine with slightly beefed-up existing framing. Then again, I now realize how little I know about this sort of thing.

Originally Posted by Willie_McCoy

I will say that there were a few times out west, Hwy 212 in MT/SD and a few others come to mind where 60mph felt like standing still and I would have been fine with 75 in my breadbox. Longest, straightest stretch of empty road I’ve ever been on.

That's true - 65 doesn't cut it when you pass a "next gas 200 miles" sign and you can look down the road and SEE that gas station

[Crown_Guy]

I'm going to jump in here for a simple clarification for the benefit of those who might read this and think that converting a non-overdrive into an overdrive is just a simple modification to the existing transmission.

In principle it is really a simple matter of swapping positions internally of the 4th and 5th gear in order to create an overdrive output speed and changing the shift pattern so 4th is now down and to the right and 5th is up and right.

The reality of doing this is complicated by the fact that the transmission needs to be opened up, first being removed from the bus to a bench or transmission stand to work on it. Then the whole guts need to be removed in order to dis-assemble and re-assemble in the new OD configuration.

It amounts to a complete tear down of the transmission, so while in there a planned total overhaul would be a very wise thing to do as well while checking and replacing any worn bearings or other parts etc. In theory it doesn't require any new gears or parts, merely flipping them around inside. But reality will most probably require you to replace and renew things like worn bearings, seals and maybe even damaged/worn gears that show up when inspecting them. These transmissions will continue to work fine even with worn and slightly damaged parts. It's your choice how much to fix and repair.

Like I said it's really easy in principle but it requires a major tear down to gain access to the gears in question. Not hard, but definitely a chore, and probably best left to a person familiar with tearing them down and rebuilding them.

This is why it's usually a good strategy to find an OD already, or find an extra non-OD to do the conversion, and rebuild, while the bus is still on the road, then simply swap the transmissions in one operation, the OD in, and the Direct out. Don't forget to check the clutch while you're doing the swap. While you're in there...

Anyone who owns a 10spd should really look around online and buy the Eaton-Fuller Transmission manuals which are easily found and quite reasonably priced. I get mine on Ebay. All the information you could ever need is in them and it explains everything about the transmissions, including the differences and conversion to an Over-Drive. They even have info on the air control systems and various valves used to control the transmissions. Very important to have and every owner should have the transmission manuals for whatever transmission he has installed in his Crown. In depth descriptions of model designation nomenclature is also included which will make everyone an expert in knowing how to describe and interpret the various model numbers and torque range design limits for each model. Very cool to know this info.

You should get a manual for the the 5-speeds as well. Those would most likely be the common T-905(A or B) series. The A and B refer to slightly different gear ratios for each gear. Believe it or not you can even turn a 5-spd T-905x into an overdrive and make it a TO-905x. In actual use it defeats the purpose and imposes some nasty downsides to the gear spacing with the 5-spd which is why you don't see it in common use. The same process is involved and the whole internals need to be removed and re-assembled in the OD configuration.

The multi speeds 10-13-15 transmissions are essentially these 905 5spd main boxes with integral 2 dir-hi, or 3 speed lo-dir-hi rear auxiliary gear units designed into the casting as a single transmission case. Very smart engineering and explains why you can OD the 5spd. It's the exact same main trans used in the multi-speed units. The service manuals will explain all of this in great detail so you can understand how it all works. Knowledge is power.

I'd strongly suggest that all who own Eaton-Fuller transmissions of any kind make the effort to find and acquire the service manuals which will give you the knowledge and confidence to understand and even do your own work on them as may be needed, short of a total tear down of course. Knowing the air-systems, gear ratios, and lubrication specs is a huge benefit and there's lots you can do for routine maintenance and repairs that don't require messing with the main mechanical transmission. Have fun and learn all you can.

[Willie_McCoy]

Originally Posted by Crown_Guy

I'm going to jump in here..........

Good to hear from you again! I am glad you clarified, I didn't want to imply it was easy or even advisable, just that it was possible.

Since you mention finding a good 10 speed OD unit being a better option, is there any chance you might be able to help me out with that?

I have a bit of a hair brained scheme that involves J&R's, a 10 speed OD, maybe a jake brake, and you if your interested.

Let me know.

[Crown_Guy]

Originally Posted by Willie_McCoy

Good to hear from you again! I am glad you clarified, I didn't want to imply it was easy or even advisable, just that it was possible.

Since you mention finding a good 10 speed OD unit being a better option, is there any chance you might be able to help me out with that?

I have a bit of a hair brained scheme that involves J&R's, a 10 speed OD, maybe a jake brake, and you if your interested.

Let me know.

No problem. I agree completely with your cautions. I really wasn't correcting you since I know you understand the mechanics involved. It's definitely doable, but I was gently cautioning those who may not have a Crown, or understand the total amount of work involved in making what sounds to be a "simple" modification/upgrade. It's definitely one of those jobs that might only take a few minutes to accomplish... but takes many hours to get in there in order to do the "simple" job.

I would suggest you keep looking around for a good condition 10spd whether OD or not and plan on having it overhauled before installing in your Crown. That makes it easier for when you can only find a non-OD then you can plan on converting it during the rebuild. They aren't that hard to find and usually don't cost all that much since they are so old and basically not suited for the newer higher power/torque engines today.

Actually you can do really good by finding any qualified heavy duty truck drive-line repair shop in your area. They all will know how to drop and swap the transmissions, they may also be an Eaton repair shop who can do the rebuild and OD modification in one step.

These places are not hard to find and are all over the country. The upgrade from a 5spd to a 10spd will require some further modifications to the shift linkage length (longer) by a few inches, and shortening the output driveshaft the same few inches. This is because the 10spd unit is a few inches longer overall than the 5spd trans. A well equipped drive-line and rear-end shop will be able to do these modifications easily as part of the total upgrade. I helped a guy here locally find a shop to swap his 5 for a 10 spd. and the shop did it all in less than 5 days.

There's a gotcha or two involved with the neutral start switch cam collar on the shift linkage that was not properly adjusted by the shop, when they finished, but I told my friend what to do and he fixed it himself easy-peasy. If you need help with this contact me and I can talk you through it.

Same goes for the Jakes. They can be expensive when found due to lack of supply but they are around. Be aware that the Jake units used in the pancake Detroits are modified internally for proper oil supply and return and are different than a normal upright truck engine configuration Jake unit.

These can be modified by drilling an appropriate hole in them, but should only be done by someone who knows what they are doing. J&R knows how to do this. Unfortunately the brain trust of 50 years of Detroit experience, Dayle, the owner, just passed away on July 3rd. This will have an impact on the Detroit 2-stroke owner community since he was one of the last truly experienced guys left around, and he knew Crowns. Time will tell how this plays out, but we've lost a true guru of 2-stroke expertise.

And let me add that you're doing an excellent job on your Crown and I plan on stealing some ideas for mine when I can get around to starting on it.

Take care and keep up the good work and drive it as much as you can. I know... Diesel $$ is even affecting my normal monthly 50 mile hops to keep everything in good order. We do what we can with what we have. Lets go Brandon!!

[flattracker]

May I add a little to the mix?
All the discussion about overdrive seems to miss one point about adding an overdrive to a Crown, that being a lack of torque from the Detroit 671 engine.
Using my "old Crown" mostly in California, I had to drive over mountains. It has climbed over the Sierras on I80, the Tehachapis on Hwy 58, the Siskiyous On I5, and the Grapevine on I5. One thing in common was that those climbs were SLOW and in some cases made in low gear, with a top speed of 18 mph. The 10 speed Road Ranger certainly helped in Crowns that had it, but mine has the Allison 4 speed automatic trans. The Crown knew it was on a hill before I did.


Based on what I have heard on this forum, my "old Crown" isn't the only "slow Crown" out there.


I have also heard from my old racing buddy who makes his living working on trucks and buses (Crowns included) that increasing horsepower in a Detroit is not a good idea.


If Crown Guy thinks I am wrong please say so because I don't have all the answers.


I had the "pumpkins" replaced in the "new Crown" to gain higher cruising speeds. When the original engine failed it was replaced with one that produces about 130 hp more than the original.


The one long drive I took in the "new Crown" with the original Cummins big cam III 300 gave me speeds over 70 mph with 410 gearing (and probably 2400 rpm) (based on GPS)


With a redline of 2100 rpms for the Cummins big cam and the ability to get to and exceed redline I felt the gear ratio change was the smart thing to do.


To simplify all the above thoughts, It only makes sense to give your bus taller gearing when the engine can work with it. My recollection about the Detroit 671 is that it works best above 1800 rpm and has a redline about 2100 rpm. When mine was down below 1800 rpm it had no power and downshift was imminent.


I only say all of this because I don't want to see someone go to the trouble to modify their bus thinking that taller gearing is THE solution and then find out the engine struggles to move the bus in high gear.

[Crown_Guy]

Absolutely true. I've driven Detroits for 50+ years in Crowns and coaches and my Freightliner tractor with an 8V-92 and 13spd. Torque is King. Many Crowns with naturally aspirated (non-turbo) 6-71's suffered mightily from a lack of torque and wouldn't pull worth a damn under 17-1800 rpm as stated above. The 10spds merely postponed the inevitable downshifts to where the engine could pull at full governed speed to take the hill. If you got lucky you might have an extra gear to make it up the grade with a paltry 5 or so extra mph road speed. Physics, gravity, and the torque curve eventually find an equilibrium, and that's how fast you go up the grade. I can't count how many Crowns with 10spds I've driven where the OD 10th gear was almost useless because the engine just didn't have enough torque to hold the road speed in OD on a level and flat road, and roads are seldom ever really level or flat. So in effect what you end up with is a 9 spd transmission with an unusable 10th unless going slightly or more downhill. Torque rules.

Now for further clarification if you were to change the rear end ratio to something like a 3.90 or 3.70 you'll definitely pick up road speed but lose a noticeable amount of hill climbing ability due to the low engine torque. This will manifest in every gear so be careful and don't jump in with a radical high speed rear end ratio. These two are good ones and will give some added road speed without sacrificing too much hill climbing performance. And the engine can usually maintain good road speed with these ratios.

It's a matter of torque from the clutch face to the tires on the ground and the transmission and rear end ratio will affect it all, and usually at a loss. There was a Crown bought by someone recently from an operator here in L.A. who had up-geared the rear to a 3:50, with an RT910 non overdrive transmission. The poor non-turbo 6-71 struggled to maintain freeway speeds in any gear above 8th gear. It would fly at 75mph in 9th gear and I couldn't hardly ever get it into 10th because the engine speed dropped so far it just didn't have the torque to pull it back out. It only could be used on a downhill grade, still at a very fast road speed. Basically the top two gears were unusable. Around town in traffic you can't do much more than 60mph if you're lucky anyway. Perfect example of a job done too far in the extreme. I'm glad I had a chance to experience it and realize that it can be taken too far.

I'd say as my opinion that either a swap for an overdrive transmission, and they usually run about .87:1 OR up-gearing the rear-end to a 3.90:1 would give a good balance of increased road speed and hill climbing performance. But the engine will still run out of torque and you'll only get the road speed it can provide the power to maintain, makes no difference what transmission or rear-end you have. The engine is the ultimate limiting factor. There's really only one true solution and that's to get a turbo'd 6-71. That's a whole new kettle of fish, and boy does it make a difference.

I drove one with an Allison 4spd automatic to Boulder from L.A. a few years ago, and the way that turbo held it's speed on the flats and going up hills made a believer outa me. It had more than enough torque and made driving it a truly joyful experience. Also it didn't suffer the large drop in power/torque as the elevation increased, just kept on pulling as if still at sea level, sold me instantly. This loss due to elevation is a HUGE factor for anyone living above 5k ft., the engine smokes more and the loss of power is very significant. That's why I bought the turbo'd 35ft one I have now. 35ft., two axle, RT910 (for now), 4.10:1 (for now), nimble little Jeepster compared to the slightly less maneuverable 40ft tandem with the monster 855 Cummins.

I have the best of both and plan on enjoying them a lot as time goes on. The Tandem Cummins knows not what a hill is plus a 90mph capability with the RTO11610 10spd OD in it. The Tandem is one awesome road devouring highway bus. Made for looong road trips and even into unknown off-road destinations with superior road handling capabilities, like all Crowns are born with. The 35ft is for rough and even tighter roads and camps and for more rough boondocking. Plus all the pure fun of having a Scream'n Jimmy that will get my blood racing and bring back the memories of all the great places I've taken Crowns through the years while in commercial service, and now in my own private use.

I hope this helps. Remember the non-turbo 6-71 just barely gets the job done around town on the flats. In the hills it slows down to about 30mph, or less, on any decent hill. The 10spd only buys a little time and maybe a little road speed when the grade climbing speed is reached, but that's all it does. The grade, rear-end gears, transmission gear will all reach a balance point with the available torque and that's the speed you go up that hill. Remember you MUST keep the engine at or just a skosh below the top governed engine speed to finish the grade. If you don't you'll destroy it eventually. Basic Detroit 2-stroke driving requirements. Drive it like you're mad at it.

[Willie_McCoy]

I appreciate all that you guys are bringing to this discussion. My experience is very limited to only my Crown and my Detroit so I may be way off the mark. Mine is a Turbo as well.

I'm looking for more gears and OD for 2 reasons, well 3 really if we are being honest.

First, I feel like more gears will give me more options to keep her in that 1800-2100 range when climbing. As it stands for any real ascents (I90E out of Coeur d'Alene and others along that corridor come to mind) I have really only 1 choice, 3rd gear and 35mph at 2100rpm. She will hold that all day, but she wont hold 4th. She was empty then too, now she is quite a bit heavier, and I plan to tow a toad. Maybe I might get another gear with closer spacing in a 10 speed, maybe I can keep her at 40+, doesn't seem like a big difference but when the climb takes 30+ minutes, 5-8 more mph is a lot, several minutes quicker on the climb. Maybe with all the added weight I will need another gear just to keep her at 35, my current next option is second and that tops out at a brisk walking pace.

Secondly, the OD comes into play as she sits at 60mph for HOURS on the highway, I feel like in a lot of places I could hold that .87 OD and using momentum maintain a higher overall speed. I plan to make long distance cross country drives in this bus and that means a lot of hours in the plains where flat takes on a new meaning.

Lastly, there is the fact that a 10 speed OD Roadranger, with its range selector and iconic shifter is infinitely cooler than the 5 speed Fuller. I may look like an adult, and even come off as a responsible one from time to time, but the reality is I am just a child with a paycheck.

I'm very leery of a rear end ratio change, as that will effect all my gears and there is a potential for a loss on the low end and I don't want to risk lugging and working clutches at low speeds. Like you said flattracker, I don’t want to struggle to move her.

Lastly is the Jake Brakes, I know this is a PITA, I have struggled to find a complete set for a 671 upright or otherwise. I know about the oil issue only because you have told me in the past Crown Guy. I don't think there is a shop on the east coast that would have any idea what to do with them. There is also the pedal linkage and other pieces parts to complete the system that I don't even know where to begin to look for. I think the only way thats happening for me is either they come off an existing Crown headed for the crusher (probably too late now) or I use J&R to source and install them. I feel like with the weight of the build, and a potential toad Jeep, aux braking is going to be a priority.

Now, with all that said, I am perfectly happy to leave her as she sits. It runs fine, climbs hills, and gets around when I need her too. If I can climb a hill in 3rd, I can come down it in 3rd safely stab braking as needed. If none of these pipe dreams pan out she will still get the job done, just maybe not as fast or as efficiently. I'm ok with that.

But if there is a chance, to upgrade her I'm going to take it. The problem with shops out here is that they just don't have the experienced guys to do the work. The only 2-strokes in new england at this point are on the water and the marine guys refuse to work on the land. Ive even been to the Detroit Factory shop here in RI and there was one salty old overall wearing guy out of the 15 there who even knew what the 2 strokes were. He basically told me just to use them (the shop) for parts because none of the guys there should be working on it. Couldn't even get me Delo 100 40wt. I had the best local heavy spring shop replace the front springs and shocks, and she still leans down on the drivers side, they didn’t know what to do with all that weight from the head off on one side. Couldn't find the right part number for the springs because nobody’s probably ever ordered one east of the Mississippi before.

Thats what put the so-cal trip in my mind, bring her out there, have some refirbs and upgrades done by guys who have seen this stuff before, and make a vacation out of the trip out, and a few months later, the trip home.

[flattracker]

I am curious, when you had the springs replaced, did you have them use the same number of leaves put on both sides? Crowns came with less leaves on one side.

[flattracker]

When I had to repair on of the front springs in my "old Crown" years back I was sent to Valley Fabrication in Salinas Cal. They are still there. They had parts catalogs for my Crown's suspension and actually replaced one broken leaf for me, while I waited, parked in front of their facility.


One note: The Crowns used springs with a "military eye". that means the top two leafs form the eye at the ends of the spring. Given that one of the top two leafs were broken, that made the difference between stranding or crash and getting home another day.

[Tejon7]

Originally Posted by Willie_McCoy

First, I feel like more gears will give me more options to keep her in that 1800-2100 range when climbing. As it stands for any real ascents (I90E out of Coeur d'Alene and others along that corridor come to mind) I have really only 1 choice, 3rd gear and 35mph at 2100rpm. She will hold that all day, but she wont hold 4th. She was empty then too, now she is quite a bit heavier, and I plan to tow a toad. Maybe I might get another gear with closer spacing in a 10 speed, maybe I can keep her at 40+, doesn't seem like a big difference but when the climb takes 30+ minutes, 5-8 more mph is a lot, several minutes quicker on the climb. Maybe with all the added weight I will need another gear just to keep her at 35, my current next option is second and that tops out at a brisk walking pace.

35 mph going up a steep hill sounds about right for me too. With more gear options, maybe I can hold out at 40 mph in 8th for a little while longer before having to downshift, but ultimately 35 is where I end up.

[Crown_Guy]

Originally Posted by Willie_McCoy

Maybe I might get another gear with closer spacing in a 10 speed, maybe I can keep her at 40+, doesn't seem like a big difference but when the climb takes 30+ minutes, 5-8 more mph is a lot, several minutes quicker on the climb.

*** 30-40mph is about the norm for all 6-71 Crowns. Back in the day that was the reality. Even the Coaches with 8V's only did the same 30-40 mph. A 10spd MIGHT be able to pick up a gear but it won't be much better and the engine may still be below it's power range. The Turbo should do a little better, but you need to watch the temp and be careful not to thrash it and abuse the crank bearings and bottom end. Keeping it at close to governed engine speed is the key and the 10spd/turbo may allow it to pull at a slightly faster road speed, if you can get there in that gear, on that grade. ****


Secondly, the OD comes into play as she sits at 60mph for HOURS on the highway, I feel like in a lot of places I could hold that .87 OD and using momentum maintain a higher overall speed. I plan to make long distance cross country drives in this bus and that means a lot of hours in the plains where flat takes on a new meaning.

*** The OD definitely will help a lot and the turbo will make it much more enjoyable and able to hold that extra speed even on the normal mild ups and downs on the road. You'll pick up about 10mph with the OD. That would be my recommendation for a first thing to upgrade. You should really check out this site and play around with the many options for possible gearing and engine speed/road speeds. It's very useful. The first step is to calculate the true road contact diameter of your tires, a bit tricky but once known the rest is fun to play with.
https://www.blocklayer.com/rpm-gear.aspx

*******


Lastly, there is the fact that a 10 speed OD Roadranger, with its range selector and iconic shifter is infinitely cooler than the 5 speed Fuller. I may look like an adult, and even come off as a responsible one from time to time, but the reality is I am just a child with a paycheck.

*** Aren't we ALL. No shame in that or need to apologize. The danger is to not be condescending to those who don't have a Crown..... I know, we all feel the rush of ownership, but I try to remain humble... I try . Evangelizing is OK though, can't help myself. Boys and our toys indeed, after all.
****


I'm very leery of a rear end ratio change, as that will effect all my gears and there is a potential for a loss on the low end and I don't want to risk lugging and working clutches at low speeds. Like you said flattracker, I don’t want to struggle to move her.

*** Don't worry about that too much. The RoadRangers have a first gear slightly lower than the 5spd 905. 6.35:1 for the 5spd, and 6.51 for the OD and 8.05 for the direct. The gears are shifted up to make room for the .81 OD (oops not .87 my bad). I'd strongly suggest getting the service manuals and you'll have all the info you could ever need. Typically I start all 10spds in 2nd gear anyway and when being lazy do 2-4-6 then every gear in high range. The OD 6:35 is plenty low and will keep you out of any trouble you should ever get into. You'll have more usable gears with good 250rpm drops overall with the OD than you will with the non-OD. The 8.05 1st is too low for daily use and will be skipped for most driving anyway, losing you a whole gear.

If you put a 3.90 rear-end in you'll pick up another 10mph with a Very slight penalty on hills, not much at all really, and this is where the 10spd and close ratios come in. The Turbo also makes itself felt here because it has higher torque at lower engine speeds and will delay the need for downshifts. This would be my recommendation.

A 3.90 rear-end and 10spd OD. Remember that 9th gear is direct 1:1 now, with the 3.90 add of 10mph in 9th, now the OD 10th becomes a true highway speed and open road advantage with another 10mph or so on top of that. This should give you a nice comfortable 80mph top with a good 75 cruising speed with the engine at around 2000rpm or so. The turbo will let you maintain this and now you have the long distance and interstate high speed cruiser you want. Believe me when I say a Crown at 75mph on the interstate is as easy to drive as the family car. You hardly notice it and it's extremely comfortable. 75 is where I end up in any bus that will attain it. *****




Lastly is the Jake Brakes, I know this is a PITA, I have struggled to find a complete set for a 671 upright or otherwise. I know about the oil issue only because you have told me in the past Crown Guy. I don't think there is a shop on the east coast that would have any idea what to do with them. There is also the pedal linkage and other pieces parts to complete the system that I don't even know where to begin to look for. I think the only way thats happening for me is either they come off an existing Crown headed for the crusher (probably too late now) or I use J&R to source and install them. I feel like with the weight of the build, and a potential toad Jeep, aux braking is going to be a priority.

*** all true and I'm always on the hunt for a set of take out Jakes from a Crown. I've missed several lately due to school district brain dead bureaucrats and salvage yards not letting me remove them before crushing..... Crimes against engineering legacy, don't get me started. We should definitely talk and I can get you in the loop as I keep looking for Jakes, for both of my Crowns actually. *****


Now, with all that said, I am perfectly happy to leave her as she sits. It runs fine, climbs hills, and gets around when I need her too. If I can climb a hill in 3rd, I can come down it in 3rd safely stab braking as needed. If none of these pipe dreams pan out she will still get the job done, just maybe not as fast or as efficiently. I'm ok with that.

*** but it's always nice to improve and upgrade things and increase the drive-ability pleasure quotient. We all feel that need. I must say though that Jakes aren't quite as effective on the turbo's because they have a lower cylinder compression ratio compared to the naturally aspirated engines. This means the Jakes aren't releasing as high a pressure compressed air with each opening so the braking drag isn't as much as the NA engines. I noticed this on that trip to Boulder and wondered about it thinking they weren't adjusted correctly. Turns out it's normal and a function of the slightly lower compression ratio. Still better than nothing to be sure but not what I was used to. FYI.
****


But if there is a chance, to upgrade her I'm going to take it. The problem with shops out here is that they just don't have the experienced guys to do the work. The only 2-strokes in new england at this point are on the water and the marine guys refuse to work on the land. Ive even been to the Detroit Factory shop here in RI and there was one salty old overall wearing guy out of the 15 there who even knew what the 2 strokes were. He basically told me just to use them (the shop) for parts because none of the guys there should be working on it. Couldn't even get me Delo 100 40wt. I had the best local heavy spring shop replace the front springs and shocks, and she still leans down on the drivers side, they didn’t know what to do with all that weight from the head off on one side. Couldn't find the right part number for the springs because nobody’s probably ever ordered one east of the Mississippi before.

*** I'm truly sorry to hear that. Makes you the frontiersman in the land of the deprived for sure. Hang in there and something will turn up. Keep beating the bushes and be sure to hit bus companies and you may get lucky to find someone to work on it who actually knows 2-strokes. ****



Thats what put the so-cal trip in my mind, bring her out there, have some refirbs and upgrades done by guys who have seen this stuff before, and make a vacation out of the trip out, and a few months later, the trip home.

*****

Lets talk privately and see what can be arranged. Email me and we'll swap cel numbers and I'll do what I can to help you out. If you plan on coming this way, and you do seem to have all the right reasons for doing upgrades, we should be able to get you set up with everything you need. Getting the Jakes will still be a hassle but even they can be available, all it takes is $$$$. The transmission swap and rear-end stuff are known to me where to get it done so we can make plans as you wish. I missed meeting you on your ferry trip from the great wet North West so I'd enjoy finally meeting and seeing your Crown.

Here's my email: mikemcc2k@yahoo.com