The ARGO

[Joe45]

Trying to figure out the picture issues here...
Sorry for this post. Testing.

[HazMatt]

That is fweekin' bizarre!
Don't know nothing about the Hon-Doo, but above it are WanderWoman's, & below belongs to M1031A1
Go fig...

[Joe45]

Originally Posted by HazMatt

That is fweekin' bizarre!
Don't know nothing about the Hon-Doo, but above it are WanderWoman's, & below belongs to M1031A1
Go fig...

Yes, bizarre indeed! And frustrating!

[o1marc]

Extra radiator sounds like a lot work to bandaid another issue. Why not address the cooling issue you have ?

[Joe45]

Originally Posted by o1marc

Extra radiator sounds like a lot work to bandaid another issue. Why not address the cooling issue you have ?

You're right.

[HazMatt]

Bet you had fun ginning up the images for it, tho...

[EastCoastCB]

Originally Posted by Joe45

I'm leaning more towards Idea 2, with the radiator above the windshield.
1. No hinges or needing to move radiator out of the way to open the hood.
2. Hoses are already routed to the inside of the bus, so all I have to to is reroute them to the top.
3. I can make a shroud for the radiator that gives the bus a more "Class C" look, and shields the radiator from the sun.

THe bus already has several extra radiators. Your cooling system.

If you have the split IC radiator the first cooling upgrade you should look to would be a full rad with full CAC. The CE300 model bus has the parts you'll want to upgrade that.

[M1031A1]

WOW my M1031 really is getting around today!!!!!!

[Joe45]

Checked behind the wall sheet metal last evening before removing all the panels. What I found was pretty thick insulation that looks brand new, and metal that also looks brand new.



Seems senseless to remove all the panels to replace insulation that seems perfectly fine. Instead, I can apply another layer of insulation-like the hard pink foam-over those panels, and then wood or whatever paneling over that. There's a two inch lip that sticks out at the bottom which can serve as a guide.


You can also see the heater tubes after I removed the metal cover that ran along the driver side floor almost all the way back. The floor looks great so far. Still, I want to remove the track-at least along the middle. The track closer to the walls could be useful to tie down the furniture/cabinets.




What do you think?

[musigenesis]

You were not kidding about rust-free. That underside looks like a BMW shop.

[musigenesis]

Originally Posted by Joe45

I'm leaning more towards Idea 2, with the radiator above the windshield.

In a crash I could imagine that thing swinging down and smashing through the windshield.

[HazMatt]

Option 1 looks like it could flip up into the windscreen.

Originally Posted by musigenesis

In a crash I could imagine that thing swinging down and smashing through the windshield.

#2 appears to be fixed in place, in a nacelle.

[Joe45]

I've eliminated option 1 because of the complexity of having to hinge it, etc. Option 2 would be the best bet, at least so far, since the radiator would be bolted down with a bracket and covered.

[musigenesis]

Originally Posted by HazMatt

Option 1 looks like it could flip up into the windscreen.#2 appears to be fixed in place, in a nacelle.

OK, I can imagine the nacelle breaking and then the radiator swinging down and smashing the windshield.

[Joe45]

Originally Posted by musigenesis

You were not kidding about rust-free. That underside looks like a BMW shop.

Yeah. So far everything is clean.



I used a Dewalt impact driver with an Allen bit on some of the track bolts on the floor. They immediately began to spin freely. Now I have to see how that works when the nut underneath is held by a wrench.
Gonna ask the wife to hit those bolts with the impact driver while I am underneath with the wrench and see if they all break loose easily.

[HazMatt]

You're the lucky one, given the horror stories most folx relate on that process!

If working single-handedly, given any clearance restraints, the best thing to do is clamp a vice-grip on your nuts.
So to speak...

Originally Posted by Joe45

Yeah. So far everything is clean.



I used a Dewalt impact driver with an Allen bit on some of the track bolts on the floor. They immediately began to spin freely. Now I have to see how that works when the nut underneath is held by a wrench.
Gonna ask the wife to hit those bolts with the impact driver while I am underneath with the wrench and see if they all break loose easily.

No kidding! It looks clean enough to eat off of.
Well, it would be, if the grub wouldn't persist in splatting on the ground.

Originally Posted by musigenesis

You were not kidding about rust-free. That underside looks like a BMW shop.

[Danjo]

Originally Posted by Joe45

One major design I am really trying to implement is a sleeping compartment upstairs. Since it seems thirteen feet six inches is the limit on height, and the bus is about eleven feet high, I am looking at creating a system using three or four nesting frames for the walls that rise using linear actuators. I don’t need to be able to stand inside the sleeping area-just sit up and have some headroom.

I’ll put up a drawing I did of the telescoping bedroom idea.

I played around with this idea as a way to add a bedroom on a short bus, sort of like a Westy only beefier.

I thought of telescoping panels or a fiberglass lid with tent walls attached around the outside.

In the search for a method to raise the roof, I thought hydraulic pistons similar to those used on heavy equipment would work, except if you were in it when the hydraulics decided to fail...

I looked at the way those pop-up trailers are built. They are cable actuated.

I also found screw jacks and liked this the best

[Joe45]

Originally Posted by HazMatt

You're the lucky one, given the horror stories most folx relate on that process!

If working single-handedly, given any clearance restraints, the best thing to do is clamp a vice-grip on your nuts.
So to speak...

There about a hundred+ bolts. I cringe at the idea of having to crawl under the bus, clamp a nut, go back up and remove, then go back for the next, and so on. Maybe I should get like ten or twenty vice grips and do that many at a time...

[Joe45]

Originally Posted by Danjo

I played around with this idea as a way to add a bedroom on a short bus, sort of like a Westy only beefier.

I thought of telescoping panels or a fiberglass lid with tent walls attached around the outside.

In the search for a method to raise the roof, I thought hydraulic pistons similar to those used on heavy equipment would work, except if you were in it when the hydraulics decided to fail...

I looked at the way those pop-up trailers are built. They are cable actuated.

I also found screw jacks and liked this the best

That's a good idea!


I would prefer having hard sides for the bedroom though, which brings me back to the A-Liner design.
I'm trying to find a work around that and the deck, as it seems insurance companies are scared of decks. Maybe if it's a "cargo rack"....

[HazMatt]

Cargo racks raise red flags, too.
That sudden stop from a precipitous drop, doncha know?