The ARGO

[Joe45]

Originally Posted by HazMatt

Gathered some good gouge, here:
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?url...2&share_type=t

Thanks!
Some good info.

I still like the idea of a pipe straight up, like on an 18 wheeler. Just wondering if that will be a problem with fumes getting in the cab.

[Joe45]

Finally posted the first video in my build series:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S7kd...ature=youtu.be

[Joe45]

So I've decided to reroute the exhaust out the side and straight up. I'll give the pipe some unique look to go along with the theme I've decided on: Victorian/Steampunk Train.



Today I removed the exhaust pipe starting where it connects at the drop down from the engine. There's plenty of pipe and 90 degree bends to do the whole thing. Not sure if I'll add a muffler yet.


I will be sealing off the main entrance and using the old lift entrance as the main ingress/egress, with folding steps. Where the main entrance is now (original) I'll convert the steps area to either a storage compartment or the compartment for the generator. Removing about 10 inches from the hanging down steps will allow me to run the exhaust out and up, just about at the forward edge of where the original door is.

[Joe45]

I Primed my floor after applying the rust converter. Then I used 3M Marine 5200 Adhesive / Sealant to affix those galvanized roofing badges over all the wheelchair tie down rail holes. For the screw holes from the plywood floor, I used some of the same 3M Marine 5200 Adhesive / Sealant without the badges.


The adhesive takes seven days to cure, so once that day passes, I'll give the floor a second coat of the primer before laying on the insulation/subfloor/vinyl flooring.



Still have to do a floor plan though!!!

[Native]

Note to self: Expect a lot of holes in the floor of a wheelchair accessable bus!


Wow, there sure were a lot of holes in your floor from those tiedown rails. It must have taken yo a long time to remove them and patch them. Nice work!

[Joe45]

It was a royal PIA!!!! I had help from several people and it was still a nightmare. At the end I wound up having to chop a couple of the rails into small pieces between the bolts so I could then access the bolts and cut them out. Those were the ones I couldn't get to due to the fuel tank etc.



Really made the strip-down MUCH longer than I wanted. It took up 90% of the time and effort. I would not buy one like that again.

[o1marc]

A thought to consider when searching for a bus. Handicap buses are going to be less fun to dismantle.

[Joe45]

Welded the steel tubing to the door opening and started to work on the cover for the stair well.


I'm framing it in 1/8"x2" angle, covered with a 1/8" sheet of steel, which will be bolted to the frame in a couple of places, and bolted to the body in other places.


My little wire welder isn't penetrating the heavier steel, even with a 10 gauge extension chord. It worked before at my job, so I'm thinking its the power in my old little cabin that's the problem. I'll have to drive to work in the buss and do the welding there-hopefully that will work.



Another issue is that the 1/8" steel plate winds up with a about a 3/4" gap between it and the floor. Trying to decide whether to use 3/4" steel tubing as a spacer, or 3/4" plywood.

[Joe45]

Got the muffler yesterday. It was pouring all day, so couldn't do anything. Hopefully will have it installed by today or tomorrow with the pipe going up-at least in a preliminary fashion.


Hoping to get the entrance floor welded and installed this weekend too.

[Joe45]

Mounted my new muffler on the side today for the vertical pipe/stack look like on an 18 wheeler.


Trying to decide whether to route the exhaust in a U-turn back up to the muffler, or chop it just after the turbo and run it across the firewall to the muffler.

[Joe45]

Also worked on laying down the base floor for the passenger area. Framed the old stairwell floor area with 1/8"x2" angle steel. On top is a plate of 1/8" steel. This will be bolted through the angle and also the body with about 8 bolts per side. The passenger seat will bolt to the plate steel.

[Native]

Originally Posted by Joe45

Mounted my new muffler on the side today for the vertical pipe/stack look like on an 18 wheeler.


Trying to decide whether to route the exhaust in a U-turn back up to the muffler, or chop it just after the turbo and run it across the firewall to the muffler.


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Engines like the least amount of turns in the exhaust... so a turn as far as practical after the turbo then routed to the stack. Are you going to put in a fake stack on the other side?


[As for the length of the straight ... a rule of thumb I picked up in a CAT manual on adding multiple turbo chargers to an engine. 5x diameter in straight after the turbo before joining the two pipes. As for a rule of thumb for after a single turbo, I do not know.]

[Joe45]

Originally Posted by Native

Engines like the least amount of turns in the exhaust... so a turn as far as practical after the turbo then routed to the stack. Are you going to put in a fake stack on the other side?

So running pipe from just after the turbo to the stack is best. I figured. Leaving the exhaust as is seems like a needless maze.


I'm going to just have the one stack on one side.

[Joe45]

Going to attach the steel plate to the floor over the old entrance, so I can later install a passenger seat.



I cut out the steps, but left the metal that made up the "walls" or sides of the steps. Then I framed around that, at floor level, with 1/8x2x2 angle steel.



To cover the opening I am using a plate of 1/8" steel that is 48x48".


I will drill through the plate, angle, and body, and secure with grade 5 bolts.

To fill the approximate 1/2" gap between the steel and the bus floor (cause by the way the angle sits framing the old steps, I will use 1/2" plywood. I will then drill through the plate/plywood/floor, and fasten with more grade five bolts along the perimeter.


QUESTION: Would it be good to use the non-removable 3M marine adhesive between the plate and angle-to seal it-or should I use butyl tape instead?
Maybe it's a stupid question, but just checking in case someone has done this before.







Seems to me the butyl would allow for removal, but why would I remove the floor? I think maybe the marine stuff will add to the structural integrity, while sealing the gap well, without worrying about the butyl eventually dry rotting etc.

[Joe45]

Got the floor on.
Still need to tighten the bolts; after adding thread locker.

A friend is visiting, so I'll have him help me with that.


This is the area where the passenger seat will be, and will double as a small office for my wife.



If you notice in the photo, there are some holes where bolts are missing. These are spots where I can't get a drill through. No exaggeration: I have snapped six brand new Dewalt 5/16 drill bits. Two of them were literally within seconds of starting to drill.
The bits are getting caught up on something-maybe the frame-and snapping like they're made of cheap plastic.

I've used oil, gone slow... still snapping them.



So.... I'll just weld those holes.


The steel plate is 1/8" and most of the bolts are going through the steel body of the bus.
The bolts and nuts are grade 5.


I may add another 1/8" plate over this one just for extra strength.


May also add some 1/8 x 2" angle on the side against the outside wall, and the front, for extra reinforcement.

[Joe45]

Got the side plate on. Still need to add about 8 screws, but its tight. I used the marine adhesive between the plate and the bus. May do some spot welds.

[Joe45]

View from driver seat of where the exhaust stack will be.