Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 10-04-2014, 09:58 PM   #181
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 722
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000 RE
Engine: 8.3l Cummins
Rated Cap: 78
Re: The Broccoli Bus

Got the bed liner applied to the roof today, what a pain in the ass. (Just a lot of work!)

It is a tintable formula that i elected to not add any tinting to, which makes it translucent. Tomorrow I will topcoat it white with a 2k epoxy.

Took all the bits off the face so I can start to prep for paint. The face will be white except for some trim, then behind the door the skirt where the cargo bays are and down will be black.

Picture angled sideways because I got high on dem bed liner fumes.

aaronsb is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-04-2014, 10:23 PM   #182
Bus Crazy
 
browncrown's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Bakersfield, California
Posts: 1,013
Year: 1976
Coachwork: Crown
Chassis: Supercoach
Engine: Detroit 6-71 Mid-Ship Mounted
Rated Cap: 79 at Birth
Re: The Broccoli Bus

Dude, that is one awesome looking bus!!!
__________________
BC
My Conversion Thread: https://www.skoolie.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=3065
browncrown is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-05-2014, 02:36 AM   #183
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 722
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000 RE
Engine: 8.3l Cummins
Rated Cap: 78
Re: The Broccoli Bus

So I wanted to fill a bunch of holes on the nose of the bus where all the trim strips were screwed in, and the mounting holes for the letters. I thought I'd share with you a technique that doesn't require a welder to make a reasonably good metal fill.

The technique is to solder! All you need is a propane torch (like you'd use for sweating pipes together) and some solder. You can use rosin core or lead free, but I've found that rosin core lead/tin mix has the best adhesion.

There are a few reasons for doing this technique instead of a mig or tig welder:

1) welding on galvanized metal sucks
2) not easy to get a backing spoon to weld the holes closed
3) not sure what else is behind there (plastic? coolant lines? wires?)
4) don't want to kill the coating on the back side of the metal, which would happen if you welded it. Less chance with a lower temperature process.
5) heat from mig or tig could catastrophically bow or oil can the sheet metal

So, use a flap disc grinder or a sander to sand down a small patch to the metal. On a bus, you'll need to go past the galvanizing as well.

Then, paint the hole with some flux (same stuff you'd prep copper pipe for) if you've got rosin core, you don't really need to do this but it helps a little bit with etch cleaning and visualizing if it's hot enough.

Use the torch to heat around the metal - don't apply the solder yet or you'll just waste it, because it melts really quickly.

When the flux boils away leaving a lighter residue, and the metal seems to change color a bit, push your solder into the metal just above the hole. It should quickly melt and pool up, sticking to the steel.

Work your way around the hole, wetting the steel with the solder. It'll cool down a little bit, so a quick touch with the torch to get it hot again. The solder should flow freely.

If it's too hot, the solder just all falls off.

The trick is to "paint" a little bit with the solder, playing with the heat and solder. When you get it right, you'll get some surface tension from the solder skinning the gap. When it does this, take your heat away!

If you get it right, you are done. Sometimes it leaves a gap in the corner, so you need to sort of re-do it. Use the properties of solder to help you. You can make it crunchy or flow easily to load up the hole, then a little pass with the torch to melt things down.

One of the nice aspects of doing this is it kills the little bit of rust inside the holes where the old fastener was at.

Once you've got all your holes filled, just grind them flush with the flap disc. Usually you'll need to make a tiny smear of body filler to make things perfectly smooth for paint.

If I had someone else to hold a camera I could make a video so the photos will have to do for now. I'll take some after photos with the body filler then primer on there and all sanded flat.


aaronsb is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-05-2014, 11:38 AM   #184
Bus Geek
 
bansil's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: MNT CITY TN
Posts: 5,158
Re: The Broccoli Bus

cool, im just chillin' in bus thinking of what to do when we get back from next trip....23 min and I can pop a beer top and fire up the grill...12 o'clock ethics and all
__________________
Our build La Tortuga
Accept the challenges so that you can feel the exhilaration of victory.
George S. Patton
bansil is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-05-2014, 11:42 AM   #185
Bus Nut
 
M1031's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Texas
Posts: 471
Year: 1988
Coachwork: Ward
Chassis: Ford B600
Engine: 6.6L Turbo Diesel
Rated Cap: 26
Re: The Broccoli Bus

I have NO body-work skills, but I can solder the bejiminies out of anything. GREAT idea and technique! THAT will save me a ton of time and effort! I hate Bondo buckets (i.e. rust buckets with Bondo holding all the vehicle together). That idea is GENIUS, pure genius!!! Added to my list of tricks now!!!
__________________
We few, we Band of Brothers. For he who sheds his blood with me shall be my brother.
- William Shakespeare ("King Henry V")
M1031 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-05-2014, 02:23 PM   #186
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Snowflake, Arizona
Posts: 340
Year: 1996
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: All American Rear Engine
Engine: C-8.3-300 Cummins MD3060
Rated Cap: 40 Prisoners
Re: The Broccoli Bus

One thing of note is that you can make solder stick to galvanized surfaces by using tinning solution. In older times this was called body leading which was the previous method of body filling before Bondo arrived on the scene. There are lots of videos on Youtube that demonstrate the use of lead in body filling. You are doing such a bang up job in record time, keep up the good work.
Dragonpop is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-05-2014, 05:52 PM   #187
Bus Nut
 
sojourner's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 701
Year: 1995
Engine: DT408
Re: The Broccoli Bus

I'm with Dragonpup! Goin' old school on your skoolie!! Nice to see the older techniques being used and still have a useful place. If you keep up you might have to really go retro and call her the "Lead Sled" I'm looking at doing something similar on a tear in the roof at the rear of mine. Probably gonna tack a piece of galvanized behind the flattened tear and go from there though. Also, some guys use a big ole soldering iron to do the same thing with a little less radical temp fluctuation than a torch.
__________________
I am an sojourner in the earth; hide not Your Commandments from me. Psalm 119:19

Here is the patience of the saints; here are the ones keeping the commandments of YAHWEH, and the faith of Yahshua. Rev. 14:12
sojourner is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-05-2014, 08:51 PM   #188
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 722
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000 RE
Engine: 8.3l Cummins
Rated Cap: 78
Re: The Broccoli Bus

Heres some after photos of the patching.

I'm really getting tired of painting.




aaronsb is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-05-2014, 08:54 PM   #189
Bus Geek
 
Tango's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
Re: The Broccoli Bus

Hmmmm...Great white buffalo Kimosabe.
Tango is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-05-2014, 09:10 PM   #190
Bus Crazy
 
browncrown's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Bakersfield, California
Posts: 1,013
Year: 1976
Coachwork: Crown
Chassis: Supercoach
Engine: Detroit 6-71 Mid-Ship Mounted
Rated Cap: 79 at Birth
Re: The Broccoli Bus

Beautiful job on the patching
__________________
BC
My Conversion Thread: https://www.skoolie.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=3065
browncrown is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2014, 06:45 AM   #191
Site Team
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: southwest lowsyana
Posts: 542
Year: 1988
Coachwork: ward
Chassis: international
Engine: dt360a
Rated Cap: 65
Re: The Broccoli Bus

lookin great man. you need a destination window up top.
claydbal is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2014, 11:04 AM   #192
Mini-Skoolie
 
mtunderwood's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Winter Park, FL
Posts: 48
Year: 1990
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: TC2000
Engine: 5.9L Cummins
Rated Cap: 72
Re: The Broccoli Bus

I think Tango nailed it... The Great White Buffalo Seriously though, beautiful work. I am going to try that solder technique on my bus.
__________________
-Mikey
Website - https://suziebluebus.com
Build Thread - https://www.skoolie.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=468143
mtunderwood is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2014, 01:17 PM   #193
New Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 6
Re: The Broccoli Bus

You are (almost) single handedly getting me pumped about my future bus conversion!
admiller is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2014, 01:23 PM   #194
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 722
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000 RE
Engine: 8.3l Cummins
Rated Cap: 78
Re: The Broccoli Bus

Thanks for that, from my perspective its sort of a grind - it feels like my progress is super slow and everything is a fight. I'm happy to hear my posts are inspirational.


Quote:
Originally Posted by admiller
You are (almost) single handedly getting me pumped about my future bus conversion!
aaronsb is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2014, 01:25 PM   #195
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 722
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000 RE
Engine: 8.3l Cummins
Rated Cap: 78
Re: The Broccoli Bus

I have always liked the bus shapes that have the hump on the roof. They have an appeal that I can't quite place.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mtunderwood
I think Tango nailed it... The Great White Buffalo Seriously though, beautiful work. I am going to try that solder technique on my bus.
aaronsb is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2014, 01:27 PM   #196
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 722
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000 RE
Engine: 8.3l Cummins
Rated Cap: 78
Re: The Broccoli Bus

Lol!

I was thinking I should get a placard in the cabin:

"Today's driver: Ahab"

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tango
Hmmmm...Great white buffalo Kimosabe.
aaronsb is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2014, 01:29 PM   #197
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 722
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000 RE
Engine: 8.3l Cummins
Rated Cap: 78
Re: The Broccoli Bus

I didn't see any better technique than leading those holes. I never see anyone using that technique so I figured I'd show it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragonpop
One thing of note is that you can make solder stick to galvanized surfaces by using tinning solution. In older times this was called body leading which was the previous method of body filling before Bondo arrived on the scene. There are lots of videos on Youtube that demonstrate the use of lead in body filling. You are doing such a bang up job in record time, keep up the good work.
aaronsb is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2014, 01:39 PM   #198
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 722
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000 RE
Engine: 8.3l Cummins
Rated Cap: 78
internal framing

I'm really looking forward to getting interior framework completed.

My current thoughts are the following features:
  • Flat duct down length of ceiling for future split ac system
    2 inch foam board to get steel ribs to flush, then 1 inch of spray foam over ribs and set to mounting rails to flush
    Douglas for 1 inch thick by 3 inch wide spaced 2 feet apart running boards for mounting panels and interior equipment walls and cabinets
    All interior framing will be steel joist construction. Metal joints will have vhb tape and rivets to hold together and keep rattle down.
    Interior panels will be frp. Waterproof and easy to clean. They will be foam adhesive and riveted to steel under framing.
    All cabinets, booths, walls, bunks, overhead compartments etc will be fabricated in this manner.
Thoughts, questions, comments on the plan above?
aaronsb is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2014, 01:46 PM   #199
New Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 6
Re: The Broccoli Bus

By steel joists are you talking about metal 2x4 studs? If so, why not build out of 3/4"-1" square tube. It's a bit more expensive, but a lot more structurally secure. And not to mention how much more space you would have.

And since you weld, it should be pretty easy.
admiller is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2014, 02:14 PM   #200
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 722
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000 RE
Engine: 8.3l Cummins
Rated Cap: 78
Re: The Broccoli Bus

I don't really have a good reason, it just seemed like the difference between square tubing and the metal studs was minimal, in balance of the studs.

I want to pick the right material for the job however, I just don't know what is best yet. Here are the reasons was thinking studs over square tubing:

I can use the studs in the "skinny" orientation to save space
They are galvanized
Lighter per linear inch
I can still weld them if I have to
C shape eases making wiring or plumbing runs
Thinner means easier to drill or self tap screws
Wide flat area (when using in skinny oriented) gives more surface for attaching frp panels
Easier to change my mind later once the vehicle is more finished - don't want to have to set things on fire or metal shavings everywhere


Anyway I'm not dead set either way just thinking out loud.

Quote:
Originally Posted by admiller
By steel joists are you talking about metal 2x4 studs? If so, why not build out of 3/4"-1" square tube. It's a bit more expensive, but a lot more structurally secure. And not to mention how much more space you would have.

And since you weld, it should be pretty easy.
aaronsb is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:54 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2022, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.