The Broccoli Bus - Page 12

aaronsb · 10-16-2014, 12:42 AM

Having fun with the new LED tail lights. It feels like slow moving lately due to waiting for certain parts.

The weather has been pretty wet the last week so not a lot of outside work. That engine door makes a great umbrella though.

Once all the lighting is complete and its legal to drive again, I'll be taking the bus to the big box store and acquiring a lot of foam, plywood, and board strips for the interior.

A shot with the engine door open, shows the red hazard lights inside the engine bay. Coincidentally, the outside flashers point up, illuminating the entire rear of the bus when that door is open.

Picture of the new license plate lamps.

aaronsb · 10-16-2014, 12:43 AM

I like the idea of spray foam. I am not so sure about what happens when you have to get back into certain areas that have been foamed.

Quote:

Originally Posted by steve.c

I have been thinking about closed cell spray foam, thoughts?

big_bertha · 10-16-2014, 10:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by steve.c

I have been thinking about closed cell spray foam, thoughts?

First of all I would google spray foam vs rigid and see what you find

Condensation is a big issue for me. Anything other than a spray that adheres directly to the metal surface is going to allow for condensation. This condensation is eventually going to cause your insulation to rot. Not to mention rigid board won't make your bus airtight. There is always some place for air to get through, and if air can enter or escape through an exterior surface the rest of the insulation is pretty much useless.

We spent about $1200 for enough R6.2 closed cell foam to cover the inside of our 40' bus.

It's really messy and really difficult to spray evenly and really difficult to trim, it's a lot more work in general than doing board. But I would do it again in a heartbeat.

Quote:

Originally Posted by aaronsb

I like the idea of spray foam. I am not so sure about what happens when you have to get back into certain areas that have been foamed.

The answer: I hope you don't have to get back into certain areas that have been foamed.

For me it was half pro, half con-- I wouldn't have been able to hide wires behind the same amount of rigid board. Spraying over wires is easy.

aaronsb · 10-16-2014, 11:45 PM

Thanks for the follow up. I am pondering laying down 2 inches of board, and then a final one inch thick coating of spray foam. It seems to cost about the same per inch of thickness.

[quote=big_bertha]

Quote:

Originally Posted by "steve.c":3lrxzp43

I have been thinking about closed cell spray foam, thoughts?

First of all I would google spray foam vs rigid and see what you find

Condensation is a big issue for me. Anything other than a spray that adheres directly to the metal surface is going to allow for condensation. This condensation is eventually going to cause your insulation to rot. Not to mention rigid board won't make your bus airtight. There is always some place for air to get through, and if air can enter or escape through an exterior surface the rest of the insulation is pretty much useless.

We spent about $1200 for enough R6.2 closed cell foam to cover the inside of our 40' bus.

It's really messy and really difficult to spray evenly and really difficult to trim, it's a lot more work in general than doing board. But I would do it again in a heartbeat.

Quote:

Originally Posted by aaronsb

I like the idea of spray foam. I am not so sure about what happens when you have to get back into certain areas that have been foamed.

The answer: I hope you don't have to get back into certain areas that have been foamed.

For me it was half pro, half con-- I wouldn't have been able to hide wires behind the same amount of rigid board. Spraying over wires is easy.[/quote:3lrxzp43]

aaronsb · 10-16-2014, 11:47 PM

Got the exit doors painted tonight while the weather was cooperative. Now tomorrow I can install new door gaskets, getting a little closer to keeping the weather out enough to work inside.

aaronsb · 10-19-2014, 05:42 PM

Got the interior steel primed, now I can lay foam down.

Also I started cleaning out the basement bays. I have to yank up the moldy plywood. At least there's steel under it. I'm sure that'll be rusty as well.

An observation for those that want to lift the roof - adding nearly 300 square feet of extra steel do do something with (prime, paint, etc) really makes things take longer.

aaronsb · 10-19-2014, 08:53 PM

Here are some photos of the interior primered from a gallon of rustoleum brown. I have small reservations that maybe I should top coat with a regular paint due to primer porosity before adding foam.

It might be fine though.

You can see a photo of the sheen difference where I globbed it on extra thick on all the seams. The flash makes it look like I didn't spray.

A photo of the door seals. I pressure washed the remaining reflective tape adhesive today in prep for sanding and painting the skirt and cargo doors, no water made it in which was nice to see.

aaronsb · 10-22-2014, 12:52 AM

How have you guys set up the emergency exit doors to be locked against tampering by the casual night time goblin thief? I had these little spots where it looked like a pop-up lock was at before, and it would block the big lever. Since they were just holes left, I put a heavy pin held in place with a cotter pin. I attached a bright yellow zip tie to the cotter pin, so if you yank on it the heavy locking pin falls out and the door can be opened.

What did you do?

aaronsb · 10-23-2014, 01:10 PM

I'm picking up 45 panels of this stuff today, exciting.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/R-Tech-2-in- ... /202532856

Add to that some plywood panels for the floor above the insulation, and a bunch of 1" thick boards for walls. I was thinking 1/2" ply.

Oh yeah, I probably will run 2x4's along the floor to support the plywood and prevent crushing of the foam.

Folllowed up with 30 of these on the walls and ceiling, to make a thermal break over the ribs:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/R-Tech-1-in- ... /202532854

Expensive, but money well spent IMO.

dgorila1 · 10-23-2014, 02:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by aaronsb

I know it's probably been talked about all over, but I'm nearly 100% certain I'm going to lift the roof.

I can't remember which member I saw also did a lift, but I think I'd like to leave about the first 6' or so of the cab original, then add a ramp up to the higher section and leave the rest to the back higher. There appears to be a lot of benefits to a raised roof.

What made you want to raise the roof? Just asking because I am trying to decide if I want to do it when I finally buy a bus (since I'm 6'4"). I won't be living in it full time so was thinking maybe the roof raise would be too much work for something I'll use on weekends and vacations right now.

aaronsb · 10-23-2014, 09:49 PM

Picked up a little bit of foam.

sdwarf36 · 10-24-2014, 02:54 AM

The springs are barely sagging!

thjakits · 10-24-2014, 10:12 AM

Damn!

Over your bus I forgot all about your U-addiction!

Just digest that: Goin' to pick up stuff for the BUS build in a UNIMOG!!

How do you spell jealous??

Good Luck for the rest of the build!!

thjakits