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Old 04-04-2015, 04:15 AM   #421
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Maple Ridge BC Canada
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Year: 1998
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: TC2000 Rear engine
Engine: Cummins 8.3; MD3060
Rated Cap: 84
I came across this video about bunk beds and thought you might use "front ladder" idea....:


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Old 04-05-2015, 01:40 AM   #422
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Started some more wall frames, and the rear full bed. (It swings up and stows vertical as well.) Yes, they are just zip tied to the wires, I had enough abuse for one evening.







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Old 04-05-2015, 01:58 AM   #423
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Looking good, I like how you left room along roof curve for wiring channel or HVAC
ducting, excellent workmanship as usual. Looks like you and Vlad are the premier builders on the North West coast.
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Old 04-13-2015, 12:04 AM   #424
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Incremental progress. I've only had about 5 hours in the last week to work on things.

Horizontal framing for main closet and the toilet.


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Old 04-13-2015, 12:41 AM   #425
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i love how you are using metal for your interior. i kind if wish i had done that. it looks strong.
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Old 04-13-2015, 07:45 AM   #426
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coming right along
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Old 04-13-2015, 10:26 AM   #427
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I like the metal also.

Nat
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Old 04-13-2015, 01:42 PM   #428
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I particularly like the fold up out of the way when not in use beds.

One of the big problems in small spaces is there are some things that take up space.

One of the things that takes up a lot of space is me. Because I am a large economy sized guy I tend to get claustrophobia if the space is small of it has the appearance of being small. Which is why I like open concept designs and this one where stuff gets folded back out of the way when not in use.

It may seem to be trivial stuff on a weekend. But trust me, several days of inclement weather can make the largest of small spaces waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay too small by the time you head for home.

Ways in which to increase the usable space inside and options for adding space outside will go a long way towards keeping the rest of the tribe happy on long excursions.

Great work and keep the updates and pictures coming.
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Old 04-13-2015, 03:33 PM   #429
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Thanks for the comments and callouts. I feel like metal framing is really versatile compared to wood in these areas, simply because it's strength at the joints is much higher.

Also, when I cut a frame meber part 1/8" too short, I can just fill the difference with weld and it'll be fine.

I'm terrible at welding wood, so I'll stick with metal when possible.
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Old 04-13-2015, 03:37 PM   #430
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Anyone want to brainstorm ideas on how to fill the walls in? My current plan is to use a 1" eps foam core cut to fit inside the metal frame, then sandwich it between layers of the same plastic I used on the ceiling. I'd just rivet the plastic to the metal frame every foot or so.

I might have to add a couple additional braces in key areas to keep someone from falling through a wall if they tripped or something.
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Old 04-13-2015, 04:41 PM   #431
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how about 1/8 clear lexan? you could fill it with lots of fun stuff, the balls from a bean bag and a small air pump would act like a snow globe, and you could glue plastic fish to blue painted inner walls like an aquarium...lots of ideas

even a hot air popcorn machine could fill the wall and be dispensed out the bottom at parties
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Old 04-13-2015, 05:33 PM   #432
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Oh my god I didn't even think of that!

Also:

https://www.playlsi.com/en/commercia...ts/gear-panel/

Play Panels | Kidstruction


Quote:
Originally Posted by bansil View Post
how about 1/8 clear lexan? you could fill it with lots of fun stuff, the balls from a bean bag and a small air pump would act like a snow globe, and you could glue plastic fish to blue painted inner walls like an aquarium...lots of ideas

even a hot air popcorn machine could fill the wall and be dispensed out the bottom at parties
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Old 04-13-2015, 07:12 PM   #433
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They say it's "a store front" looks like a tiki bar to me, fish Taco's ?
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Old 04-13-2015, 08:31 PM   #434
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I decided to use 1/4" plywood. I will use 3/4" or 1" or 1.5" wood framing and fill voids with foam I have. I will use Bondo compound where I have gaps.

I might use some steel where really needed, but bus itself is rock solid and partition walls made of steel are overkill....

So in my case it will be more like house drywall. Drywall is 1/4" plywood, mud is Bondo. It is very forgiving if you screw up (and believe me you will...) you can easily fix just about anything with Bondo.....

If I were you I would use 1/4" plywood. I would add some wood between steel studs you have. I would use screws/glue to screw ply to metal and brad nails/glue to attach ply to wood. I would add horizontal wood runs every 12-18". This would give enough support for whatever material you decide to use.

I had to add wood in some areas because plywood needs support especially where 2 ply sheets meet.

The real PITA for you are inside corners. You can double up steel with 1"x2" and attach ply to it.


Think ahead. How are you going to make your inside/ outside corners? What is going to be used as a filler compound? If you don't want to use filler you will have to use some kind of mouldings everywhere.
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Old 04-13-2015, 10:31 PM   #435
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I never take selfies so uh, here you go. In the rain, cold and getting dark out side, perfect time for a foto.

You should frame it.
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Old 04-13-2015, 10:37 PM   #436
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Rated Cap: 78
A nice thin 1/4 inch ply core followed by that cheap silver bubble wrap (for spacing) followed by the plastic sheeting I have would work pretty good...

I plan on riveting the plastic into the steel frame, and now that you mention it, I could rip some battens to attach to the ply, which would provide a thick enough material to add a few rivets in the middle of the panel too.

My plan for the outside edges is this plastic u channel stuff that has a 1-1/8" inner width. I can clip it right over the edges where metal is at.

For the edges at the ceiling curve I was planning on some thin cove base molding (100 foot reels of the stuff is cheap) installed upside down and fastened to the panel. It would make a great wire chase for things too.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Vlad View Post
I decided to use 1/4" plywood. I will use 3/4" or 1" or 1.5" wood framing and fill voids with foam I have. I will use Bondo compound where I have gaps.

I might use some steel where really needed, but bus itself is rock solid and partition walls made of steel are overkill....

So in my case it will be more like house drywall. Drywall is 1/4" plywood, mud is Bondo. It is very forgiving if you screw up (and believe me you will...) you can easily fix just about anything with Bondo.....

If I were you I would use 1/4" plywood. I would add some wood between steel studs you have. I would use screws/glue to screw ply to metal and brad nails/glue to attach ply to wood. I would add horizontal wood runs every 12-18". This would give enough support for whatever material you decide to use.

I had to add wood in some areas because plywood needs support especially where 2 ply sheets meet.

The real PITA for you are inside corners. You can double up steel with 1"x2" and attach ply to it.


Think ahead. How are you going to make your inside/ outside corners? What is going to be used as a filler compound? If you don't want to use filler you will have to use some kind of mouldings everywhere.
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Old 04-14-2015, 10:55 AM   #437
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronsb View Post
I never take selfies so uh, here you go. In the rain, cold and getting dark out side, perfect time for a foto.

You should frame it.
your photo turned out good
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Old 04-14-2015, 11:55 AM   #438
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Engine: Cummins 8.3; MD3060
Rated Cap: 84
If you decide to use panels you should use what is called J molding when used with drywalls. You will need to find right thickness.

J molds will hide imperfections in the edge and will make your panelling look professional. In case of inside corner or outside corner they will form your corner. You can even use them on flat surface just by putting back to back.

Check this out:

Search Results forĀ*frp moldingĀ*at The Home Depot

25 White 8ft End Cap Molding for 090"in NRP Vinyl FRP 4x8' Wall Panel Plas Tex | eBay

Marlite Accessories - EM Plastic & Electric Products Ltd.

You will be able to attach j moild to your framing with rivets/glue (I would use screws instead), then you can install your panels inside the channels of j molds. I would also add some glue in the middle to hold panels to cross members. In this case all your screws will be hidden and only nice clean panels will show up.

Finally found a video:

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Old 04-14-2015, 12:15 PM   #439
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Aaron, you need to post that in the thread in everything else ;)
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Old 04-16-2015, 11:23 AM   #440
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I finally sat down for a few hours for the marathon read through your thread. You're doing really nice work. The "structure recalibration modules" put a smile on my face. I'm almost to the recalibration point on mine, and still weighing options on lift and guide mechanism.

With a few hundred rivets under your belt now, how did you feel about that Boulderfly 747 rivet gun and bucking bars kit you linked to earlier? I've been waffling over whether to get just the rivet sets to use with my Harbor Freight air hammer/chisel, or whether to also get the (presumed) better hammer with this kit. Which rivet head shape did you use with this? I can't tell from the current Amazon listing whether its sets are for round, truss, etc.

Also wondering whether you did anything to stretch the exterior metal as you fastened/applied it so it won't warp in the summer heat..?
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