Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 08-05-2015, 10:23 PM   #21
Almost There
 
ii_amnt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: South Carolina, but headed back to Michigan
Posts: 84
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International
Engine: DT360
Quote:
Originally Posted by nat_ster View Post
Leaks are fixed from the outside, not the inside...
What about the ability to address the damage that new leaks may cause? I don't know how hard it will be to recognize the new leaks, but I'd like to be able to remove a panel of insulation, allow it to dry out and treat any rust. Maybe I am overly paranoid about potential mold and rust there.

Quote:
Originally Posted by nat_ster View Post
...You need a alternator with a higher duty cycle.

Using your alternator to charge your house battery's is the worst, and highest cost method of all options available.


Nat
Until I am at a point where I am more off-grid capable, I'll be using the grid to charge for smaller excursions. Sounds like I have some reading and learning to do. Most of the electronics I read on this site goes right over my head.

__________________
-Travis
1991 International. DT360. Spicer 5-speed manual transmission. Work in progress; spray foam, wood stove, etc...
ii_amnt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-06-2015, 12:58 AM   #22
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Stony Plain Alberta Canada
Posts: 2,937
Year: 1992
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000 FE
Engine: 190hp 5.9 Cummins
Rated Cap: 72
Once you paint the outside of the bus with elastomeric paint, you should have no new leaks.

In a house you don't need to open walls, why would you in a bus?

Nat
__________________
"Don't argue with stupid people. They will just drag you down to their level, and beat you up with experience."

Patently waiting for the apocalypses to level the playing field in this physiological game of life commonly known as Civilization
nat_ster is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-06-2015, 08:56 AM   #23
Bus Geek
 
Tango's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
If it is extra juice you are looking for while driving...check out the electrical systems on board fire trucks & EMS units. They run monster alts (sometimes 2-3 of them) and power a long list of critical equipment including a/c's.

But as Nat noted...trying to use the engine as the power source while stationery is just pi$$ing dollars down the the drain.
Tango is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-06-2015, 09:45 AM   #24
Bus Crazy
 
Scooternj's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: EHT New Jersey
Posts: 1,134
Year: 2003
Coachwork: AmTran
Chassis: International 3000RE
Engine: T444E/AT545
Rated Cap: 75
Quote:
Originally Posted by ii_amnt View Post
Maybe I am overly paranoid about potential mold and rust there.
Once you've replaced the original fiberglass with with something not fiberglass (spray or rigid foam), treated the existing rusts and leaks you should be fine.
__________________
Hey! That's not an RV, that's a school bus.
Well thank you for noticing, Captain Obvious

Captain Obvious on deviantArt
Scooternj is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-07-2015, 08:13 PM   #25
Almost There
 
ii_amnt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: South Carolina, but headed back to Michigan
Posts: 84
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International
Engine: DT360
Got my riveting tool in the mail today. Seems like decent quality. An air setup would be nice, but just isn't in the cards for me right now. This one got good reviews from people who do fabrication for a living. I know the bus will not be the only place it is used.

I will be having a friend or two over tomorrow to help finish the gutting. Windows, panels and insulation will be removed. I believe the way the wall panels are made on this bus, I have to take the windows out, unless I wish to cut the panels out. I figure, the windows are coming out anyways. I will have to buy a tarp or two to keep the rain from getting inside.

With it gutted, I can begin work on rust removal and order panels to patch over 11 windows. One side will get 3 and a half (a small window for the bathroom), the other will have most of the windows so we can park the bus for some solar heat gain in winter months.
Attached Thumbnails
WP_20150807_001.jpg  
__________________
-Travis
1991 International. DT360. Spicer 5-speed manual transmission. Work in progress; spray foam, wood stove, etc...
ii_amnt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-09-2015, 08:38 AM   #26
Almost There
 
ii_amnt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: South Carolina, but headed back to Michigan
Posts: 84
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International
Engine: DT360
The demolition is nearing it's end. Still some work to be done. But, a friend from work who is interested in doing his own bus in the future (though, a shorty, as he is a single guy) came to help out.

It was interesting to see how this bus is held together. There are these supports running the length of the bus that I hadn't seen before on anyone else's build.



In order to get the side panels out, I had to remove the windows and take out six screws holding the outer skin to the inner skin. I already had the chair rail screws out.



We suited up in 3M painter's suits, masks and goggles to bag up the insulation. Then as he took an old broom to the walls and ceiling, I came in behind him with a shop vac and got everything off the floor and still hanging on.




These window openings are roughly 24 by 28 inches.



Overall, I am feeling optimistic about the headroom. We are going to place some scrap wood underneath a piece of plywood to simulate the finished height of flooring and ceiling materials and see how we feel. The current headroom must be at least 6'1".

When I get time, I am going to try and edit that last post with the link to the album. I used google photos for these ones, I'd like to embed images. I know I like seeing posts with plenty of embedded images.
__________________
-Travis
1991 International. DT360. Spicer 5-speed manual transmission. Work in progress; spray foam, wood stove, etc...
ii_amnt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-09-2015, 09:20 AM   #27
Skoolie
 
USMCRockinRV's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Alvin, TX
Posts: 122
Year: 1996
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Safe-T Liner MVP
Engine: 12V Cummins
Rated Cap: 75
The bus for us

Looks like you're going all out... That's a heck of a demo job!!

The build should be nice.

I have four wheel wells my two aft wells have a sink and portion of my bed over one and a closet over the other. My toilet is in front of my driver side well and full size shower in front of the other.Click image for larger version

Name:	ImageUploadedByTapatalk1439130135.112920.jpg
Views:	25
Size:	259.3 KB
ID:	8167Click image for larger version

Name:	ImageUploadedByTapatalk1439130320.548170.jpg
Views:	21
Size:	265.8 KB
ID:	8169
Attached Thumbnails
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1439130234.286601.jpg  
__________________
1996
Thomas
Safety Liner MVP
USMCRockinRV is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-09-2015, 09:54 AM   #28
Bus Geek
 
EastCoastCB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
Looks like the bus is in great shape.
EastCoastCB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-09-2015, 01:46 PM   #29
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Stony Plain Alberta Canada
Posts: 2,937
Year: 1992
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000 FE
Engine: 190hp 5.9 Cummins
Rated Cap: 72
Quote:
Originally Posted by ii_amnt View Post
There are these supports running the length of the bus that I hadn't seen before on anyone else's build.
Those supports are standard on bluebird coachwork

Quote:
Originally Posted by USMCRockinRV View Post
Looks like you're going all out... That's a heck of a demo job!!
That's not all out.

That demolition is standard on any bus build that is more than a slapped together pile of crap.

If you don't demo the inside, your bus will always stink, have condensation on the walls in cold, and unbearably hot in the summer heat. Also the fiberglass will keep grabbing and holding moisture, rusting away at the inside of your walls.

Nat
__________________
"Don't argue with stupid people. They will just drag you down to their level, and beat you up with experience."

Patently waiting for the apocalypses to level the playing field in this physiological game of life commonly known as Civilization
nat_ster is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-10-2015, 04:55 AM   #30
Almost There
 
ii_amnt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: South Carolina, but headed back to Michigan
Posts: 84
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International
Engine: DT360
Quote:
Originally Posted by EastCoastCB View Post
Looks like the bus is in great shape.
It's been great so far, it's what helped sell the bus to me.

Quote:
Originally Posted by nat_ster View Post
Those supports are standard on bluebird coachwork
Show's how much attention to detail I have! The only downside will be if I go with polyiso board, then I will have to cut out channels to accommodate them.

The one thing I am not totally sure what to do with is the piece of sheet metal that seems to be holding the walls to the floor. The one that makes up the bottom half of the chair rail. I am going to want to at least cut off the ledge. I don't recall seeing anyone totally remove it, but I'd have to double check. I just want to be able to treat any rust hanging out in there. If it must stay, I will definitely add a layer of insulation over it. Maybe I could do a 3" polyiso board in the walls. I would use 2" boards to fit in that channel, then add 1" board to the inner side to help make it flush.
__________________
-Travis
1991 International. DT360. Spicer 5-speed manual transmission. Work in progress; spray foam, wood stove, etc...
ii_amnt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-10-2015, 05:27 AM   #31
Bus Crazy
 
Scooternj's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: EHT New Jersey
Posts: 1,134
Year: 2003
Coachwork: AmTran
Chassis: International 3000RE
Engine: T444E/AT545
Rated Cap: 75
The sheet metal below the chair rail is what holds the body to the chassis. And we do tend to leave the chair rail intact, because it gives a structural mounting point for fittings.
__________________
Hey! That's not an RV, that's a school bus.
Well thank you for noticing, Captain Obvious

Captain Obvious on deviantArt
Scooternj is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-10-2015, 01:29 PM   #32
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Stony Plain Alberta Canada
Posts: 2,937
Year: 1992
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000 FE
Engine: 190hp 5.9 Cummins
Rated Cap: 72
I agree, the chair rail needs to stay.

That diagram I made showing how a bus body is put together needs to be made a sticky. Then all the new members could see it.

Here it is again.



Nat
__________________
"Don't argue with stupid people. They will just drag you down to their level, and beat you up with experience."

Patently waiting for the apocalypses to level the playing field in this physiological game of life commonly known as Civilization
nat_ster is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-10-2015, 03:04 PM   #33
Bus Geek
 
Tango's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
One more chair rail note...

when closed in it makes an excellent run for electrical, plumbing and just about anything you want tucked away.
Tango is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-10-2015, 06:42 PM   #34
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Elk Creek, Virginia
Posts: 28
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Bluebird
Engine: 5.9 Cummins
Rated Cap: 72
I recommend the roof raise it is really not that hard to do and plus you get so much more space for proper insulation and if you are really thinking about putting the shower over the wheel well it will work. We have decided on our going over the wheel well and building out from it so the trap will be inside and be less likely to freeze.
AtoZ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-10-2015, 06:47 PM   #35
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Stony Plain Alberta Canada
Posts: 2,937
Year: 1992
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000 FE
Engine: 190hp 5.9 Cummins
Rated Cap: 72
One more note for anyone hating the wheel wells.

When we order buses new, we can ask for the same bus, but 19.5 tires VS the big 22.5 tires.

Having the smaller tires, allows the manufacture to make a flat floor with no wheel wells in the way. This is used for full wheel chair buses.

Only thing the manufacture installs different is the gearing in the rear axle. If the bus was 5.29 with the 22.5 tires, it needs 3.54 with the shorter 19.5 tires to drive the same speed with the same engine RPM.

Same go's for anyone wanting tall gears to go faster. Look for units with the 19.5 tires for faster, taller gears.

Nat
__________________
"Don't argue with stupid people. They will just drag you down to their level, and beat you up with experience."

Patently waiting for the apocalypses to level the playing field in this physiological game of life commonly known as Civilization
nat_ster is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-10-2015, 10:27 PM   #36
Skoolie
 
USMCRockinRV's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Alvin, TX
Posts: 122
Year: 1996
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Safe-T Liner MVP
Engine: 12V Cummins
Rated Cap: 75
That's interesting - so you can Rob the Pumpkin on those buses for the Gears... That's very interesting...

Good post
__________________
1996
Thomas
Safety Liner MVP
USMCRockinRV is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-11-2015, 11:05 PM   #37
Almost There
 
ii_amnt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: South Carolina, but headed back to Michigan
Posts: 84
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International
Engine: DT360
Quote:
Originally Posted by nat_ster View Post
One more note for anyone hating the wheel wells.

When we order buses new, we can ask for the same bus, but 19.5 tires VS the big 22.5 tires.

Having the smaller tires, allows the manufacture to make a flat floor with no wheel wells in the way. This is used for full wheel chair buses.

Only thing the manufacture installs different is the gearing in the rear axle. If the bus was 5.29 with the 22.5 tires, it needs 3.54 with the shorter 19.5 tires to drive the same speed with the same engine RPM.

Same go's for anyone wanting tall gears to go faster. Look for units with the 19.5 tires for faster, taller gears.

Nat

Thanks for the info, Nat. Seems like a real foolproof way to get yourself the proper gearing in the back. I may do just that if I find myself planning a cross-country voyage.

I think a proper sticky with information like that diagram you posted would be very helpful. But, that would mean someone devoting their precious time. We can only hope that someone might come along like that.

I've got the bus tarped up. I will be in Michigan for a month, leaving this Saturday. But, I'm looking to come back strong in September. With the weather cooling down and the wife exiting first trimester (she's been dealing with a lot of nausea, she had the same with our first child), hopefully she can be out there a little more to lend a hand. I know she wants to be out there, she is just as excited to get it underway as I am.
__________________
-Travis
1991 International. DT360. Spicer 5-speed manual transmission. Work in progress; spray foam, wood stove, etc...
ii_amnt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-11-2015, 11:11 PM   #38
Almost There
 
ii_amnt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: South Carolina, but headed back to Michigan
Posts: 84
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International
Engine: DT360
Quote:
Originally Posted by AtoZ View Post
I recommend the roof raise it is really not that hard to do and plus you get so much more space for proper insulation and if you are really thinking about putting the shower over the wheel well it will work. We have decided on our going over the wheel well and building out from it so the trap will be inside and be less likely to freeze.
Yea, it's still in the back of my mind. Maybe if I didn't have two old Mercedes that didn't also need my help, I'd be feeling a little more ambitious!

The other part that has me hesitant is my yard. My house is on the side of a hill. As it is now, sometimes as I am working in the bus my balance is thrown off by the angle it's sitting at. I don't really want to find another place to park it while I do the raise. Though, I did stop at a local place called "camping world" that had many RV products. They had what seemed to be tire shims to get your RV level. Maybe I can do something like this?

I have a lead on a large Hitachi angle grinder. Hopefully it works out. That would definitely be needed for a roof raise.
__________________
-Travis
1991 International. DT360. Spicer 5-speed manual transmission. Work in progress; spray foam, wood stove, etc...
ii_amnt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-12-2015, 06:02 AM   #39
Skoolie
 
USMCRockinRV's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Alvin, TX
Posts: 122
Year: 1996
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Safe-T Liner MVP
Engine: 12V Cummins
Rated Cap: 75
Click image for larger version

Name:	ImageUploadedByTapatalk1439376984.841374.jpg
Views:	16
Size:	339.1 KB
ID:	8207Click image for larger version

Name:	ImageUploadedByTapatalk1439377166.510536.jpg
Views:	16
Size:	271.1 KB
ID:	8208

I used old scaffold boards - cut at decending lengths and screwed and glued.
Worked out perfect for where we fish.
__________________
1996
Thomas
Safety Liner MVP
USMCRockinRV is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-17-2015, 04:37 PM   #40
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 100
Quote:
Originally Posted by nat_ster View Post
One more note for anyone hating the wheel wells.

When we order buses new, we can ask for the same bus, but 19.5 tires VS the big 22.5 tires.

Having the smaller tires, allows the manufacture to make a flat floor with no wheel wells in the way. This is used for full wheel chair buses.

Only thing the manufacture installs different is the gearing in the rear axle. If the bus was 5.29 with the 22.5 tires, it needs 3.54 with the shorter 19.5 tires to drive the same speed with the same engine RPM.

Same go's for anyone wanting tall gears to go faster. Look for units with the 19.5 tires for faster, taller gears.

Nat
That's quite the info!

One could go trough the trouble of flattening the floor and making mechanical change accordingly... nice!
mrblah is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 02:32 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.