The Camel Conversion Project

[DT75FLH]

Originally Posted by PDBreske

Over the past few days I've been removing the unused/legacy/defunct 12-volt wiring in an effort to simplify the new wiring scheme I'll be installing. In the process, I found something interesting: an Emergency Start button.

On the dash to the left of the steering wheel in a button marked Emergency Start. I followed the wire from this button and it leads to a solenoid similar to a starter solenoid/relay in the battery box. Connected to the solenoid are two heavy gauge wires that were connected to the positive terminals of the two batteries.

Here's what I think—you tell me if I'm right or wrong: Only one battery was routinely used for starting the vehicle's engine, while both were used as house batteries for the RV. If the main starting battery were depleted to the point it would no longer crank the engine, the Emergency Start button could be depressed and it would combine the two batteries' cranking power to turn over the engine. Does that sound right? If not, any other ideas?

I'm also guessing this feature wasn't used very often (if ever) as the wire from the button was only barely making contact at the terminal on the solenoid. The nut holding it down was loose and the connector could be freely wiggled with a fingertip. As we already know, only one of the batteries was useable as the second was nearly bone dry, so the engine will start easily with only one good battery.

Does anyone else have an Emergency Start button on an International 3800 bus with a DT466 engine?

In my motorhome the Emergency start did tie in the house and starting batteries to help boost the starting power for a week starting battery.

and to the prior poster, the max width on the highways is 102" wide..not 96"...

OP what width is it inside?

I don't have problems towing a trailer...BUT I was looking for a u-haul to convert to a towhauler so I did not have tow the trailer just like your doing. ( I have a toyota based rock crawler for a few weekend trips solo)

whats the top speed in this ? do you know?

the pics show the front tires over the rear axle ? I think the weight and balance is going to be gine as long as you put the water tank in front of the axle.
Where are the fuel tanks located?

If I had to guess. I saying the rigs will weigh about 14-16k and maybe 21k with your jeep in the back. And the real GVW is 27500# its just says 25K to keep it under CDL.

Looking forward to your progress.

[PDBreske]

Originally Posted by DT75FLH

In my motorhome the Emergency start did tie in the house and starting batteries to help boost the starting power for a week starting battery.

and to the prior poster, the max width on the highways is 102" wide..not 96"...

OP what width is it inside?

I don't have problems towing a trailer...BUT I was looking for a u-haul to convert to a towhauler so I did not have tow the trailer just like your doing. ( I have a toyota based rock crawler for a few weekend trips solo)

whats the top speed in this ? do you know?

the pics show the front tires over the rear axle ? I think the weight and balance is going to be gine as long as you put the water tank in front of the axle.
Where are the fuel tanks located?

If I had to guess. I saying the rigs will weigh about 14-16k and maybe 21k with your jeep in the back. And the real GVW is 27500# its just says 25K to keep it under CDL.

Looking forward to your progress.

The interior width of the garage section will be just over 7-1/2 feet and the Jeep is just over six feet wide. I intend to cut open the rear wall and drive the Jeep inside to see if I can actually fit through the Jeep door with it opened as far as I can. If it turns out I can't fit or it ends up being more hassle than it's worth, I might just cut off the walls and roof aft of the living quarters so I won't have to worry about the Jeep door clearance at all. At the very least I'll cut a small opening in the left wall to allow the Jeep door to swing open, although that would add more weight and complexity to what is supposed to be a simple rig.

I have no idea the top speed of the vehicle. I was unable to max it out on the drive from Tennessee due to front wheel balance and/or alignment issues.

The computer mock-up I posted was an earlier design idea. Now the Jeep front tires are ahead of the bus rear axle, moving the CG forward a bit. The fresh water will be ahead of the Jeep (probably under a raised floor beneath the bathroom/wardrobe area aft of the kitchen) and the grey water will be under the driver seat (ahead of the fuel tank, which is itself under the kitchen).

----------

Not much to report today. The battery tray was rusty and the slides were only opening about halfway, so I cleaned up the tray a little bit and lubed the tracks. It now opens all the way, but the tray really needs to be repaired or replaced to ensure its integrity.

I haven't yet removed the wiring for the emergency start feature, although I'm dubious about its importance. As I stated before, it probably hadn't used been before and I wonder if I'll ever need it on a vehicle that won't sit without an engine start for more than a few days. Also, since I'll be replacing the shared starting/house battery setup with separate systems, the likelihood of draining the starting battery with extended inverter use is diminished.

Some more of the wiring to the overhead panel was found to be defunct, so I cut it off and removed it. There is now only one circuit leaving the 12-volt panel: The ceiling vent fan. The switch panel has a bunch of open locations and the way I intend to mount it will allow me to easily add new circuits for future accessories.

[pipopak]

Hi there:
my comment about the two water tanks was more about something breaking and losing the water being in the middle of nowhere.
About loading the Jeep inside: the bus is built on a truck chassis, so it can handle the weight. Weight distribution is the issue, with most of the Jeep weight back of the rear axle steering might be compromised.
Also no need to cut the bus to see if you can squeeze out of the Jeep, just park next to a wall and give it a try. Also you could cut a small door on the side of the bus corresponding with the Jeep one, couple steps down and that is.

[PDBreske]

Originally Posted by pipopak

Hi there:
my comment about the two water tanks was more about something breaking and losing the water being in the middle of nowhere.
About loading the Jeep inside: the bus is built on a truck chassis, so it can handle the weight. Weight distribution is the issue, with most of the Jeep weight back of the rear axle steering might be compromised.
Also no need to cut the bus to see if you can squeeze out of the Jeep, just park next to a wall and give it a try. Also you could cut a small door on the side of the bus corresponding with the Jeep one, couple steps down and that is.

Why didn't I think of that? Thanks!

[DT75FLH]

I think the weight and balance will be fine for the rig then. Just need a Empty WT .

My old toyhauler was 102" wide with 96" interior width..BUT the fron fold up seats took another 3" per side. My toyota rock crawler would fit inside withe the doors on (has removeable doors) and I could just squeeze through the opening and would crawl under to hook up the straps.

with the interior being 90" wide and you hug the passenger wall you might fit.

[thommassey]

Originally Posted by Redbear

I had to laugh - that must be the quote of the month!

Funny , but true...

[PDBreske]

The other day I was looking at the walls in the garage area and I'm leaning again towards cutting out the sidewalls in addition to the rear wall. This would serve two purposes: I'd be able to drive in with the Jeep centered in the garage and have access to all the doors of the Jeep when parked inside, and the loss of the wall material would lighten the rear end by a couple hundred pounds (the walls are all 1/8" aluminum sheet). I could re-use that aluminum for a new battery box where the generator currently resides (that bay is steel and quite rusty) as well as other projects inside the vehicle.

I would leave the roof and the rear corners alone, and I'd leave about a foot of material between the roofline and the removed sheet metal to give the roof rigidity.

Now, this idea would negate my plan of having a lockable garage for secure storage, but I thought I could put a swing-up door under the bed floor that I could close when the Jeep is out of the garage. This area would be large enough for small items that I don't need to keep inside (spare parts, engine oil, spare tire, etc).

In the meantime, I cleaned the engine bay with a gallon of Simple Green and a pressure washer, then detailed a few plastic parts with ArmorAll. I rubbed the intercooler pipes with a foam sanding block to brighten the aluminum surface. (My girlfriend says I'm a perfectionist and that I'll never finish this project in the next two months. )







To refresh your memory, this is what it looked like before:

[pipopak]

Originally Posted by PDBreske

Now, this idea would negate my plan of having a lockable garage for secure storage, but I thought I could put a swing-up door under the bed floor that I could close when the Jeep is out of the garage. This area would be large enough for small items that I don't need to keep inside (spare parts, engine oil, spare tire, etc).

If you just make a small side door to match the Jeep's you could still keep the closed garage.

[PDBreske]

Originally Posted by pipopak

If you just make a small side door to match the Jeep's you could still keep the closed garage.

True, but the only part of the garage that needs security is under and in front of the nose of the Jeep, so this new plan still allows that while keeping the weight and complexity to a minimum. Besides, cutting out most of the garage walls permits access to all four doors of the Jeep in case I need to get something after it's parked. It's also easier to strap down the tires for travel.

[PDBreske]

After reading this thread, I'm inclined to set up an ice box rather than the full-sized refrigerator that came with the bookmobile. I figure I can build a cabinet and insulate the heck out of it, then keep some dry ice in a bottom corner, replenishing it every few days. The dry ice is very cold and should keep a supply of standard items cool in a well-insulated chest. The best part: It uses zero electricity.

Any thoughts on this idea?

I was going to sell or give away the Styrofoam insulation from the walls and ceiling, but I've instead decided to re-use at least some of it to partially fill the voids between the wall studs I'll be installing. I can cut the foam down to long, narrow chunks that fit between the studs with a gap all around the edges, then spray expanding polyurethane foam into those gaps, completely sealing the cavities while firming up the structure. This will save me some money on the polyurethane foam (I was planning to do the whole bus with the stuff, but it's pricey; $330 for enough to cover 200 square feet one inch thick) and I'll be able to increase my insulation efficiency by going much thicker than I would have with just the spray. If I build out the rigid foam to the faces of the studs, I'll get an insulation value of between R-15 and R-18.

This is less than half of what I have:

[Stuff]

wow! thats a clean engine!!

[PDBreske]

Originally Posted by Stuff

wow! thats a clean engine!!

My neighbor used to be a long-haul trucker and he gave me some advice: Clean the engine and keep it clean.

He kept his engine bay immaculate and would find notes on the driver's seat when he would get the vehicle serviced: "Thank you for having such a clean truck!" He also felt they would do a better job when working on it because they figured he was the kind of guy who might check the quality of their work after it was done.

I intend to follow my neighbor's advice.

[somewhereinusa]

keep some dry ice in a bottom corner, replenishing it every few days

I think you'll find that to keep everything cool the ice needs to be at the top, since cold travels down. Is dry ice available the places you go? I don't think there
has been any around here for years, although I haven't really looked.

[wtd]

After reading this thread, I'm inclined to set up an ice box rather than the full-sized refrigerator that came with the bookmobile. I figure I can build a cabinet and insulate the heck out of it, then keep some dry ice in a bottom corner, replenishing it every few days. The dry ice is very cold and should keep a supply of standard items cool in a well-insulated chest. The best part: It uses zero electricity.

Any thoughts on this idea?

I thiink it's a brilliant idea - of course, it's my thread
If you want to use the formula I gave there for calculating the the box size and insulation amount with dry ice
the latent heat of dry ice is about 246 btu/lb versus the 144 per pound of 'regular' ice.
A little arithmetic up front helps alot. Good to know when you start that you're using enough insulation for the box size to achieve your desired result, rather than just throwing a bunch of material at the problem and hoping it works out OK.

Tom

[PDBreske]

Originally Posted by somewhereinusa

I think you'll find that to keep everything cool the ice needs to be at the top, since cold travels down. Is dry ice available the places you go? I don't think there
has been any around here for years, although I haven't really looked.

I figure the coldest air will pool at the bottom and I can keep the items that need it on a lower level with the items that can stand it a bit warmer on a higher level. With a top-opening door, the cold air won't just spill out when the box is opened, so it should maintain a temperature pretty well. This is why freezer chests are so efficient.

My local grocery (Publix chain) sells dry ice, and when the dry ice is unavailable, regular ice will suffice. I've read dry ice is widely available at grocery stores.

[PDBreske]

Originally Posted by wtd

I thiink it's a brilliant idea - of course, it's my thread
If you want to use the formula I gave there for calculating the the box size and insulation amount with dry ice
the latent heat of dry ice is about 246 btu/lb versus the 144 per pound of 'regular' ice.
A little arithmetic up front helps alot. Good to know when you start that you're using enough insulation for the box size to achieve your desired result, rather than just throwing a bunch of material at the problem and hoping it works out OK.

Tom

I'll keep that in mind when (if) I start to build it. Thanks for planting the seed of the idea!

[wtd]

Glad it helped.
Looking at your engine makes me want to buy a pressure washer ...

Tom

[PDBreske]

Originally Posted by wtd

Glad it helped.
Looking at your engine makes me want to buy a pressure washer ...

Tom

If you do, also invest in a full-body, waterproof coverall with a hood and a face shield. Trust me on this.

[PDBreske]

I need to plug an unused hole in the firewall under the dash. It's 1-3/4" diameter and it looks like this: MOCAP LDPE Sheet Metal Hole Plugs.

Anybody know where I can buy one of these in a single pack? The online sources that I've found sell only huge packs of 25, 50, 100 or much more. I tried locally at Harbor Freight, NAPA, Carquest, AutoZone, etc.

[wtd]

I've used these in various places around the bus, metal, not rubber, don't meet any bizzaro specs or anything that I know of but they work fine and are inexpensive -


Both came from Ace - the one on the left from the hardware 'drawers' they have a bunch of different sizes and as you can see just pop into the hole - probably not waterproof if that's a concern, but a little bit of RTV would fix that. Cost less than a buck.
The one on the right is just an 'extra hole' plug from the plumbing aisle. Cost a couple bucks, come in a coupla sizes, are usually installed in sinks and made waterproof with a bead of caulking.
If you want rubber, Ace would most likely have them, I know they have rubber 'corks'.

Tom