The Camel Conversion Project

[PDBreske]

Don't you just hate when random events get in the way of the work you really want to do? One of my external hard drives today decided to stop working. I should say the enclosure decided to stop powering the drive inside it, so I yanked the drive out and connected it to my computer with a nifty adapter that I bought for this very purpose. If you value your data, I recommend you get one of these: NewerTech USB 3.0 Universal Drive Adapter. It has saved my bacon more than once.

The drive in question stores my entire photo library of over 50,000 images. Needless to say, this is pretty important to me. I do have the entire drive backed up, but I'd rather not have just one copy, even if that copy is redundantly stored on a four-drive array. I ordered a new enclosure and another hard drive because this one is getting close to its capacity anyway. That's another $180 I won't be spending on the bus.

After the computer issues, I managed to install the laminate on my kitchen countertop. The pattern is "oiled soapstone" and I love it. I also cut the stainless edge guard to length, although it's still wrapped in protective film, much like the backsplash from an earlier post.

[gmarvel]

Absolutely beautiful work! Your wood working skills are far superior to anything I could do. Jealous, but excited for you. It is looking great.

[PDBreske]

Originally Posted by gmarvel

Absolutely beautiful work! Your wood working skills are far superior to anything I could do. Jealous, but excited for you. It is looking great.

Thank you! I'm not really a woodworker, but I am a perfectionist and I tend to do things slowly, but correctly. Sometimes.

[PDBreske]

Just another test fit of some of the kitchen parts, including the stainless edge trim. I love it and I can't wait until it's finished.

[ol trunt]

The stainless is beautiful. How are you attaching it?

[PDBreske]

Originally Posted by ol trunt

The stainless is beautiful. How are you attaching it?

Well, I'm still trying to figure that out. I was going to use epoxy, but I am thinking it might be better to use silicone caulk or adhesive. Something that will hold metal on wood and not harden. I don't want any water to seep between the SS and the laminate and get into the plywood countertop. I'll also need to use something to hold the backsplash to the wall. Any suggestions? I'd rather not ruin the aesthetics with screws or bolts through the stainless.

I love the look of the stainless so much that I'm probably going to use it for the two or three other horizontal edges I'm planning.

[LandLubber]

Nice. I dip out for a few weeks and everybody's bus is finished! Good work for sure.

[PDBreske]

Originally Posted by LandLubber

Nice. I dip out for a few weeks and everybody's bus is finished! Good work for sure.

Hah! Not quite. ;) But thanks!

[ol trunt]

PD, I had good luck using 3-M double sided tape to affix my stainless back splash to the side of the bus. I expect the same material could be cut to fit your counter edging. I used a very narrow counter edge (1/2"x1/2") which didn't give enough surface area to allow for the use of tape. Instead I welded "pins" to the back side. drilled matching holes in the counter, inserted the pins and bent them over under the counter to secure the edging. So far they seem to be holding just fine.

[GreyEagle]

Gorilla glue might do the trick......... just thinking out loud here.
I used it in our house to secure the stainless steel back splash in the kitchen.
just sayin???

[Diesel Dan]

I usually default to Liquid Nails for stuff like that. I like the fact that there is a thick bead that gets mooshed, so I feel like there is a better chance for adhesion. I'm no glue expert though...

[roach711]

The counter top is gorgeous!

Originally Posted by PDBreske

The drive in question stores my entire photo library of over 50,000 images. Needless to say, this is pretty important to me. I do have the entire drive backed up, but I'd rather not have just one copy, even if that copy is redundantly stored on a four-drive array. I ordered a new enclosure and another hard drive because this one is getting close to its capacity anyway. That's another $180 I won't be spending on the bus.

Do yourself a favor and keep an offsite copy of your data drive. I back mine up to blueray disks quarterly and store the disks away from home. We had a home break in a couple of years back and my first thought when I saw the door kicked in was how glad I was to have my pictures stored at work. My setup is similar to yours with a redundant array for data and a separate backup drive on my workstation, but a fire or a thief could make both irrelevant.

[PDBreske]

Originally Posted by roach711

The counter top is gorgeous!

Do yourself a favor and keep an offsite copy of your data drive. I back mine up to blueray disks quarterly and store the disks away from home. We had a home break in a couple of years back and my first thought when I saw the door kicked in was how glad I was to have my pictures stored at work. My setup is similar to yours with a redundant array for data and a separate backup drive on my workstation, but a fire or a thief could make both irrelevant.

I'll look into it, and thanks!

[PDBreske]

Originally Posted by Diesel Dan

I usually default to Liquid Nails for stuff like that. I like the fact that there is a thick bead that gets mooshed, so I feel like there is a better chance for adhesion. I'm no glue expert though...

Yeah, that's what I like about the idea of adhesive or caulk or something. When I push it onto the edge, I want to know it's filling every crack and gap. I think they use Liquid Nails to hang mirrors, don't they?

[PDBreske]

Another little project is the A/C duct over the entry door. It's taller than the duct opening on its right because it funnels the air through a much narrower opening and I didn't want to impede the airflow. (There will be turbulence inside this duct section, but it's not like I'm testing the next X-plane in there.)

I had a couple pieces of scrap plywood big enough to make both pieces, so I clamped them together and drew a partial ellipse on one surface. Then I cut both pieces while still clamped together to get identical curves on each. The top piece will obviously be hidden inside the duct, so it needn't be pretty.

Onto the inboard edges of these will be affixed a thin, flexible board (or maybe thin-gauge sheet metal), and that will be covered with some kind of reflective material to bounce the light from the ceiling fixture towards the shower on the opposite wall. I'll likely insulate inside the curved board, but only enough to keep the face from sweating due to the temperature differential.

Just in case you're wondering, the lower piece is still high enough that I won't hit my head on it as I enter or leave the bus.

[eyedeal.ink]

lexel is good stuff, I highly recommend it...messy though and it tends to flash over if you don't use it right away, making it impossible to smooth out edges like silicone would, DAP 3.0 crystal clear is really good stuff too, just not usually recommended for straight to wood, don't know about stainless, should be fine, I know silicone eats aluminum. Stay away from gorilla unless you got a good way to clamp it for one hour. Any way you glue it, it'll ruin the surround if you ever had to remove it.

Looking fantastic by the way.

[browncrown]

Go ahead and test the next X-Plane in there Beautiful work!

[sojourner]

Well, I'm still trying to figure that out. I was going to use epoxy, but I am thinking it might be better to use silicone caulk or adhesive. Something that will hold metal on wood and not harden.

A couple products that I have used in the boat business. One is 3M5200 and the other Sikaflex 291. Both cure flexible, can be tooled to finish and clean up with acetone. I've used both when installing outboard motors and various other underwater connections. I've even had 5200 pull gelcoat when tying to remove an outboard bedded with it. Great stuff and lasts a lifetime.

For areas where adhesion is not as required but sealing is, Lifecaulk is a good choice. You can "sand" it smooth once cured with scotch-brite pads to get a very nice finished look.

You can read about them ta the sites below.

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/e ... 622&rt=rud

http://usa.sika.com/en/solutions_produc ... 02102.html

http://www.boatlife.com/life-calk/

[PDBreske]

Originally Posted by browncrown

Go ahead and test the next X-Plane in there Beautiful work!

LOL. Thanks!

Originally Posted by sojourner

A couple products that I have used in the boat business. One is 3M5200 and the other Sikaflex 291. Both cure flexible, can be tooled to finish and clean up with acetone. I've used both when installing outboard motors and various other underwater connections. I've even had 5200 pull gelcoat when tying to remove an outboard bedded with it. Great stuff and lasts a lifetime.

For areas where adhesion is not as required but sealing is, Lifecaulk is a good choice. You can "sand" it smooth once cured with scotch-brite pads to get a very nice finished look.

You can read about them ta the sites below.

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/e ... 622&rt=rud

http://usa.sika.com/en/solutions_produc ... 02102.html

http://www.boatlife.com/life-calk/

Thanks for the info! I have learned that 3M makes great products, and that anything labeled "marine use" is good for just about any purpose.

[bansil]

Finally caught up in thread, awesome work as is your norm...very good job