The Journey Bus - 1999 International 3800

WARGEAR · 05-28-2018, 07:56 PM

This is going to be the official build thread for what my girlfriend has affectionately names the Journey Bus. I’ll be posting pictures of build progress and probably be asking for advice from the guys and gals on the forum here! We’re thrilled about getting knee deep into this project! Honestly, Im sure I’ll learn a lot about carpentry and plumbing and wood working. Ill be keeping this updated regularly for anyone interested in following our progress. The first pic is the bus in the driveway after driving it 400 miles from PA, and the second one is from the night it broke down on me haha. More to come!

WARGEAR · 05-28-2018, 08:57 PM

Wanted to add a few more pics, in no particular order unfortunately. Underneath the seats and rubber mat was the steel floor. It was covered in surface rust that I treated with Corroseal, then primed with three coats of an oil based primer. It’s a glossy white now! Interior has been 85-90% gutted, and we started painting the exterior this Memorial Day weekend. A lot of work has already gone into it, but it’s a fun experience for sure!

Ninjakitty · 05-28-2018, 09:03 PM

Lookin good! Can't wait to see what you do with it.

EastCoastCB · 05-29-2018, 05:58 AM

My friend Jesse is from the Finger Lakes area. Met him on this forum.

Enjoy the bus!

WARGEAR · 06-01-2018, 01:42 PM

Well it’s thundering and raining out, so looks like more painting is out of the question for the day. This is how far I made it the last couple of days, it’s not much but it’s progress!

WARGEAR · 06-23-2018, 09:14 PM

Just a quick update on the progress of the bus:
1. Finished sewing the bolt holes in the floor. Used pennies and industrial sealant to seal it all.
2. Finished painting the exterior! Only a small portion of the door left.
3. Hit all the grease points on the chassis to keep things nice and lubed.

As of late I’ve come up with a short list of things to do and I’d really like the opinions of some of the more experienced folks on this forum. I know some of you all are experts in your own right! I’ve scoured this site for info, and have learned a lot, but I’d just like to hear what everyone thinks nowadays.

So I’m almost ready to put in a subfloor. Problem is I can’t decide exactly how I want to accomplish it. I know I want insulation on the floor (1” rigid foam) with a plywood surface on top. I’m thinking using 2x4s to frame the floor, with 3/4” ply or 5/8” ply on top. But I’m torn between using industrial adhesive to secure the framing “joists” or use fasteners such as bolts/screws. I don’t want to “thermal bridge”, as it were, and create moisture issues.

What does everyone think? All replies are welcome and appreciated!

WARGEAR · 08-08-2018, 03:38 PM

It’s been awhile since I’ve posted anything here and I just wanted to provide a quick update:

I’m having trouble locating water ingress source locations in the bus. It doesn’t help it’s parked on a slight incline (nosed up).

The bus has been almost completely serviced by myself, save for a PS fluid filter and brake fluid bleed.

Exterior paint is done, and the roof has been coated with a silicone roof sealant and water barrier.

If anyone had any ideas where water could get in, I’d be grateful for the response.

o1marc · 08-08-2018, 05:34 PM

You'll probably find the windows to be the culprit.

magnakansas · 08-08-2018, 05:43 PM

so if the tail is most downward..... I would start with a garden hose opened all the way.... hose down one side do only the rear half... check for water every five minutes, after fifteen minutes do the front half of the same side below the windows.... repeat. then do the other side if all checks out below windows, start over on the first side rear half, roof to just below windows... check front half check other side..

break it down into segments might easier to isolate water migration. be methodical.

william

EastCoastCB · 08-08-2018, 05:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WARGEAR

It’s been awhile since I’ve posted anything here and I just wanted to provide a quick update:

I’m having trouble locating water ingress source locations in the bus. It doesn’t help it’s parked on a slight incline (nosed up).

The bus has been almost completely serviced by myself, save for a PS fluid filter and brake fluid bleed.

Exterior paint is done, and the roof has been coated with a silicone roof sealant and water barrier.

If anyone had any ideas where water could get in, I’d be grateful for the response.

The roof hatches on all 5 of the buses I've owned leaked. THe windows leak. The strobe light, passive vent, and anything that causes the need for a hole to be cut into the roof will be likely culprits.
Sealing up a bus isn't too hard. The proper way is to patch over stuff you don't need and use seam sealer on every seam.

WARGEAR · 08-09-2018, 09:27 AM

Thanks everyone for the advice. I’ve sealed up the remaining exterior window sills with construction grade silicone, and the upper flasher lights with the same stuff. The foam gaskets have deteriorated heavily so I’m pretty confident that’s where my rearmost leak was coming from. Just need to wait for a rainstorm or make my own to test it all!

WARGEAR · 08-09-2018, 09:28 AM

Thanks everyone for the advice. I’ve sealed up the remaining exterior window sills with construction grade silicone, and the upper flasher lights with the same stuff. The foam gaskets have deteriorated heavily so I’m pretty confident that’s where my rearmost leak was coming from. Just need to wait for a rainstorm or make my own to test it all!

WARGEAR · 08-09-2018, 12:22 PM

Well good and bad news: good news is that I’ve found the leaks and pretty much know how I’m going to seal them. Bad news is it’s the windows. The bottom corners of most windows are letting water in along the inner skin. I’m tempted to use silicone Roc seal from the exterior rather than remove all 24 or so windows and do it. I’m confident it can be done without removal. Any thoughts?

o1marc · 08-09-2018, 12:41 PM

In my bus the windows all have sealant on the bottom only. Once the screws and washers are removed the windows tilt right back to "lever" out the windows. Clean and reseal the offending window.

EastCoastCB · 08-09-2018, 01:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WARGEAR

Well good and bad news: good news is that I’ve found the leaks and pretty much know how I’m going to seal them. Bad news is it’s the windows. The bottom corners of most windows are letting water in along the inner skin. I’m tempted to use silicone Roc seal from the exterior rather than remove all 24 or so windows and do it. I’m confident it can be done without removal. Any thoughts?

Instead of that silicone, try the real deal. SEAM SEALER.

WARGEAR · 08-09-2018, 01:23 PM

My bus body is built by AmTran, who built yours? Perhaps they’re identical in construction.

WARGEAR · 08-10-2018, 03:27 PM

Update to the thread:

Removed and resealed all the windows (24) to prevent any water ingress. It wasn’t as hard as I expected. There was a nice helping of dead bugs and crap sandwiches between the body and the windows. It was a good idea recommending I remove the windows!

WARGEAR · 08-13-2018, 03:43 PM

Finally got to begin framework for the floor in our bus! Went with the idea of a floating floor and 1” polystyrene insulation (R6.5). Almost finished framing the floor. If I didn’t have to work late today I might actually get it all done wth the girlfriend!

The outdoor pic is when I took Journey to home depot to get some materials

Tango · 08-13-2018, 08:18 PM

Just for the record...Silicone is NOT a good choice for any vehicle. As noted, OEM Seam Sealer will be your fiend.

o1marc · 08-13-2018, 09:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tango

Just for the record...Silicone is NOT a good choice for any vehicle. As noted, OEM Seam Sealer will be your fiend.

This argument about silicone reminds me of the discussions we have with people who have negative thoughts on powder coating. It's usually based on long past experience. Everyone keeps saying to not use silicone, but highly recommends Henry's products for the roof for it's cooling and sealing benefits and it's 100% silicone. If it's good enough for the roof seams why not for other seams? Yes there are products out there that do a 200% job for 300% of the money, when only 100% is needed and there are plenty of new silicone products on the market that will do the required job.

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