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Old 01-07-2020, 03:14 PM   #141
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Now that I've spent more time over/under/and around the bus I can safely say this area between the battery box and the front wheel well under the driver is the worst structural rust to be dealt with. Because of the heater core, fusebox/switch panel, and drivers pedestal this is also probably the hardest area of floor to get to and fix...
I'm thinking the combination of window leak from above with the chemistry from the heater core connections and the battery box coupled with the constant road splash from the drivers wheel did this area in.

The stairwell area in contrast only has mild rust -- really just need to fix the edge of the lower step...

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Old 01-18-2020, 01:54 PM   #142
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o1marc View Post
38', less 14' garage, leaves 24'. Take 5' away for cab area, leaves 19' to build to accomodate 6-8?



I thought he meant "seat", not "sleep". Wife wants a rolling beet tasting "bar"to demo her brews. He wants a track and indoor bed.


I'm thinking kinda like an old Pullman bar on a train.


edit: sorry, should have checked the date before commenting.
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Old 01-18-2020, 02:10 PM   #143
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I like how you did your doors -- did you consider going full height with them?
Is that 3 separate ramp sections? Stored inside or under the bus?

My beds will be fold down racks that serve as day tables or couch backs similar to small camper trailers. Their may not be even one "permanent" bed in this build. You're dealing with a guy that enjoys his C-130 flts by hanging a hammock in the tail section -- a good Loadie will wake you up if there's turbulence and get you to a seatbelt!

The worst thing that can happen here is all the ideas won't fit...
But that's why I'm "spit-balling" now and looking at others build threads...

The biggest emphasis is on a pretty bar serving a proper pour wherever the thirsty travelers may land...



Most states have open container laws... I'm guessing a tap would be considered an open container. Maybe a lockable partition separating the drivers area from the rest of the bus? Separate entrance/exits for bar section?


How about a slide out with a revolving bar so that it can serve people outdoors or indoors? OK, I tend to get carried away...I'm still on page 1, I better shut uo and read before commenting any more.
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Old 01-18-2020, 02:37 PM   #144
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Originally Posted by Mr4btTahoe View Post
Sounds similar to what we are working on. Our plans are a 14' open rear deck (to haul the Jeep on)... 12' of "living space" and 3' behind the driver's seat for permanent mounted captains chairs with proper belts (likely on swivel mounts).


To get this to work out, we are having to add a 3' tail to the rear of the bus which we are going to dovetail it a bit to ease loading of the Jeep.


Good luck with the build!

I saw a design a while back where the floor hinged behind the back wheel wells and dropped down in the rear. Hook a ramp onto it made the ramp angle a lot less steep, more clearance at the back door, and allow the car to be driven up onto the wheel wells (most wheel wells are too close to drive between) lift the ramp up, tie the car down, pull down/close the door and go. More to build, but I think the benefits would make up for the trouble if you use the bus as a car toter.




Sorry, still on page 1.
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Old 01-18-2020, 04:11 PM   #145
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kidharris View Post
I thought he meant "seat", not "sleep". Wife wants a rolling beet tasting "bar"to demo her brews. He wants a track and indoor bed.


I'm thinking kinda like an old Pullman bar on a train.


edit: sorry, should have checked the date before commenting.
No need to comment on 01Marc and math...

Think Irish pub theme. Mahogany bar, kegorator behind the bar with 2 or 3 taps. 4 or 5 bar stools depending on the length of the L shaped bar. Hopefully 4 bus seats can fit across from this -- two sets of two seats facing each other with a little table inbetween.
You won't know there's a bar within from the outside -- speakeasy mentality here...
The "garage" area will be able to accommodate a couple of fold down beds... TBD...
But when not hauling parts or gear there'll be plenty of room for sleeping...

Open container is kinda more about police discretion than anything else. If the driver is not drinking there's really very little problem.
A tap 10 feet behind the driver is an open container ONLY to the kinda cop that smashes your headlight with a nightstick and writes you up for having a broken headlight...
AND the bar would normally only be in obvious service when parked somewhere.

Slide outs are too much work.

Far more likely to tow a vehicle behind the bus than build a ramp.
(even though I love the idea of fabbing a cool ramp -- lot of project time -- priorities)
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Old 01-18-2020, 05:41 PM   #146
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Quote:
Originally Posted by banman View Post
No need to comment on 01Marc and math...

Think Irish pub theme. Mahogany bar, kegorator behind the bar with 2 or 3 taps. 4 or 5 bar stools depending on the length of the L shaped bar. Hopefully 4 bus seats can fit across from this -- two sets of two seats facing each other with a little table inbetween.
You won't know there's a bar within from the outside -- speakeasy mentality here...
The "garage" area will be able to accommodate a couple of fold down beds... TBD...
But when not hauling parts or gear there'll be plenty of room for sleeping...

Open container is kinda more about police discretion than anything else. If the driver is not drinking there's really very little problem.
A tap 10 feet behind the driver is an open container ONLY to the kinda cop that smashes your headlight with a nightstick and writes you up for having a broken headlight...
AND the bar would normally only be in obvious service when parked somewhere.

Slide outs are too much work.

Far more likely to tow a vehicle behind the bus than build a ramp.
(even though I love the idea of fabbing a cool ramp -- lot of project time -- priorities)

"You won't know there's a bar within from the outside -- speakeasy mentality here..."


No windows? No going outside while parked?


I guess that I am not as willing as you to depend on the mood/generosity of any LEO or judge. I would want at least a leg to stand on. The problem is not driver drinking, that is a separate law. In many areas the open container law is really a law passed by religious groups as part of their plan to punish other religions. In other areas it is a money/funding issue and the LEO is trying to fund/justify his job/raise. The more areas that you go thru or park in, the more likely you are to get in trouble. Party bus operators would know more about their particular area.



If you can afford to lose your bus or have a "get out of jail free card", I suppose it doesn't really matter. I know many modern vets think that they are going to get special treatment but I come from an era when a vet was more likely to catch crap. Not high enough reward to risk ratio for me...but you do need to keep the wife happy.


Yup, I agree that towing would be easier, I would personally use a trailer that my towed vehicle could also tow if possible.
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Old 01-18-2020, 11:46 PM   #147
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Originally Posted by Native View Post
You really should look into the DTNA login. It is surprizing how much information you can get sitting in front of your screen.



If you are missing parts for the battery box, you should consider getting them from a junk yard. The dealer wants over $200.00 each for the slides. That is why I rebuilt mine. I seem to recall the bearings were less than $2.00 each ... even that may be more than they really cost.

I used hobby shop skateboard bearings ...$1 each
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Old 01-19-2020, 12:02 AM   #148
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I used hobby shop skateboard bearings ...$1 each
That could be a useful source for quality bearings designed to handle dirt and lateral loads -- I'll have to check out what's available next time I'm downtown.
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Old 02-06-2020, 12:46 PM   #149
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Went for a 20 min drive to thoroughly warm up the oil and test the brakes and such...

Brakes are good!
No warning lights for the entire drive.
A2000 seems to be shifting nicely. ~ 1700rpm at 55mph so I imagine hwy speeds should be no problem when I'm ready...
The doors stayed shut (electric) so I guess they're properly adjusted.

Did the eng oil and filter change when I got back. One of the quirks of my beast is that it came with a poorly marked replacement oil-dip-stick...
Maybe giving the eng serial # to a CAT dealer can give the final word about how many qts of oil I should use, and then I can properly mark my dipstick...
For now I've added 7 gallons or 28 qts.
Oil sample taken during the drain and sent off to Blackstone Lab for analysis -- just want to get an idea of how sh!tty the old oil was -- a base line of wear metals to compare to in the future. I'll learn more after a thousand miles is put on the new oil and I have that sampled but that could be the end of this summer at the rate I'm going...
GOOD NEWS is the drain plug is magnetic and there was almost nothing on it so rings and cylinders are probably still very good...

The steering is a little sloppy -- not unsafe -- just not tight like a new truck...
The Transmission temp gauge never moved so I assume it's not working. That's a gauge I'd like to have working so I'll have to figure out how it works.
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Old 02-06-2020, 05:35 PM   #150
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Small world I also took it for a drive to get more familiar with it and check the fluids and such and I *thought* the temp guage was broken also but just as I was going to park it I noticed it did move a tiny tick... I wonder if your readings were anything like mine? (ex, I was at 1900rpms at 60 mph)

*side note * I snapped this photo to ask the group about the abs and then suddenly the light disappeared and hasn't returned... Hmm20200205_133543.jpg
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Old 02-06-2020, 07:22 PM   #151
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I wish my ABS light would just suddenly go away on its own. My Inner Child who is still driving a '76 Rabbit with no gauges of any kind and a bungeed hatchback wants to fix the problem with a piece of electrical tape.
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Old 02-06-2020, 08:05 PM   #152
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Small world I also took it for a drive to get more familiar with it and check the fluids and such and I *thought* the temp guage was broken also but just as I was going to park it I noticed it did move a tiny tick... I wonder if your readings were anything like mine? (ex, I was at 1900rpms at 60 mph)

*side note * I snapped this photo to ask the group about the abs and then suddenly the light disappeared and hasn't returned... HmmAttachment 41396
With as gently as I was driving It's possible my gauge is fine but...
The coolant was a steady 180F so I'd think the tranny temp would be above 100F. Now that the eng oil's fresh I can go for a hwy speed drive to really test the transmission...
There should be a tag on your rear axle denoting the gear ratio. Mines 5.13, it seems like yours will be close to that.

Quote:
Originally Posted by musigenesis View Post
I wish my ABS light would just suddenly go away on its own. My Inner Child who is still driving a '76 Rabbit with no gauges of any kind and a bungeed hatchback wants to fix the problem with a piece of electrical tape.
Hydraulic brakes yes? If so, as long as you only have the ABS light on and not both the BRAKE WARNING & ABS lights on you should be fine.
Fine being: Your hydraulics are working fine -- what is not working is the speed sensor system/ABS control. So, you can lock up your wheels, or just one wheel if it receives more hydraulic pressure, or is on a looser surface...
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Old 02-06-2020, 08:24 PM   #153
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Hydraulic brakes yes? If so, as long as you only have the ABS light on and not both the BRAKE WARNING & ABS lights on you should be fine.
Fine being: Your hydraulics are working fine -- what is not working is the speed sensor system/ABS control. So, you can lock up your wheels, or just one wheel if it receives more hydraulic pressure, or is on a looser surface...
No, air brakes. The ABS light has been on ever since I retrieved my bus from George the Butcher. He cut out the 8-foot section around my wheel wells, and it's possible that he cut a wire or something (although I haven't seen anything yet that appears wrong) or damaged the unit. He then placed and welded the four main beams, and mentioned blowing the circuit breaker at his mother's house multiple times.

So either the cutting or the welding did something. I'm going to be thoroughly cleaning the area around the rear axle over the next couple of days so maybe I'll see some obvious damage. I'll also post pics so maybe you or somebody can point me at what the ABS even is back there.
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Old 02-06-2020, 08:43 PM   #154
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No, air brakes. The ABS light has been on ever since I retrieved my bus from George the Butcher. He cut out the 8-foot section around my wheel wells, and it's possible that he cut a wire or something (although I haven't seen anything yet that appears wrong) or damaged the unit. He then placed and welded the four main beams, and mentioned blowing the circuit breaker at his mother's house multiple times.

So either the cutting or the welding did something. I'm going to be thoroughly cleaning the area around the rear axle over the next couple of days so maybe I'll see some obvious damage. I'll also post pics so maybe you or somebody can point me at what the ABS even is back there.
Not sure of potential differences with air braks/abs but...
The wheel sensors are going to be essentially the same -- one on each caliper or hub. You should be able to trace the wire from each one to the control unit for physical integrity. High voltage spike could definitely damage the abs control or other components...
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Old 02-07-2020, 12:37 AM   #155
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Did the eng oil and filter change when I got back. One of the quirks of my beast is that it came with a poorly marked replacement oil-dip-stick...
Maybe giving the eng serial # to a CAT dealer can give the final word about how many qts of oil I should use, and then I can properly mark my dipstick...
For now I've added 7 gallons or 28 qts.

Glad to read you were able to give your half of the twins a shake-out run.


7 Gallons ... really? Wow, that seems very high. I believe the tech sheets from CAT show 22 quarts. If There was 28 quarts in ours, I am sure it would be oozing out everywhere.


Anywy, here are the dipstick photos:
20200206_111752 Oil Dip Stick.jpg

20200206_111716 Oil Dip Stick - Close.jpg
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Old 02-07-2020, 01:34 AM   #156
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Originally Posted by Native View Post
Glad to read you were able to give your half of the twins a shake-out run.


7 Gallons ... really? Wow, that seems very high. I believe the tech sheets from CAT show 22 quarts. If There was 28 quarts in ours, I am sure it would be oozing out everywhere.


Anywy, here are the dipstick photos:
Attachment 41399

Attachment 41400

Where did you get that 5' rule?
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Old 02-07-2020, 07:09 AM   #157
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Glad to read you were able to give your half of the twins a shake-out run.


7 Gallons ... really? Wow, that seems very high. I believe the tech sheets from CAT show 22 quarts. If There was 28 quarts in ours, I am sure it would be oozing out everywhere.


Anywy, here are the dipstick photos:
Attachment 41399

Attachment 41400
Mine definitely holds more than 6 gallons.
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Old 02-07-2020, 11:01 AM   #158
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Native View Post
Glad to read you were able to give your half of the twins a shake-out run.


7 Gallons ... really? Wow, that seems very high. I believe the tech sheets from CAT show 22 quarts. If There was 28 quarts in ours, I am sure it would be oozing out everywhere.


Anywy, here are the dipstick photos:
Attachment 41399

Attachment 41400
AWESOME -- Thank you so much!
My stick is only a eighth of an inch shorter than yours so I'll assume that our setups are the same. Snowing here today so I might not play with my dipstick but... I wouldn't have guessed that the operating range was 3/4" wide.

You said you had the oil changed when you had a general service done -- maybe you have more oil than you realize...

There is a "deep" and a "shallow" pan depending on application for the FL60 through FL70 series chassis. How deep is your oil pan? I assume it's measured at the front where the sump is deepest...
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Old 02-07-2020, 12:22 PM   #159
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The measuring stick: It was in my father's garage. I do not know where he obtained it.


You are welcome. I could not get the dip stick to stay straight and also show the markings, so that may account for differences in readings.


I do not know how much was actually put into the engine since I did not perform the service. I would think that it also depends on the accessories installed as well (like oil coolers, transmission coolers, etc.)


As for the depth of the pan, I have not measured it.
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