The Warthog - Page 2

s2mikon · 01-07-2021, 05:53 PM

Beirdo, I am interested in the controller and harness for that webasto heater. Can you elaborate more? Thanks, Michael

Beirdo · 01-07-2021, 07:00 PM

Sure. I bought a stock harness and controller both off eBay to start me off. I'm working on designing my own controller from scratch, but first, I just want the thing to work. Hopefully I can begin testing soon (still waiting for the last bit - fuel pump harness to arrive).

The items I got:

Both of these shipped from the UK, and both were branded Webasto parts as well. It seems they both have "Buy It Now" still available too, interestingly enough.

When I get the custom controller done (I have circuit boards, just arrived yesterday from China), my general plan is to use the diagnostics line, which runs what they call "WBus" over an ISO K-Line interface. The interesting thing with K-Line is that it's essentially half-duplex serial (as in UART) with different voltage levels than RS232 (12V/0V vs -15V/15V basically) running at 10.5k baud. My wee boards will take that line, convert it to CMOS 3.3V UART signals, and then feed those into an FTDI UART->USB chip. This will allow me to plug it right into a laptop (or anything else really) and then write the software to speak with WBus packets, which already exists (libwbus).

I also have another concept that I want to try after that, which is to basically make that K-Line act as a sub-bus of a CANBUS... or just run it as is to the bus' OBD-II connector as it carries K-Line too! I have an OBD-II Arduino Shield I just finished laying out the other day which should make things fun too.

Yah, I'm a complete geek, I'll freely admit it. Anything in particular past that you'd want to know in more detail?

s2mikon · 01-07-2021, 08:56 PM

Ok, thanks. I saved those on ebay. So what is the aftermarket boards they are talking about on you tube? I think canbus delete boards? So I take it that the freightshaker does not use canbus? Simple line high to turn on, line liw to turn off? And what did the truck junk yard charge for your unit? Thanks.

Beirdo · 01-07-2021, 09:25 PM

The ones that specifically use CANBUS from what I can tell are the BMW and Land Rover OEM ones from Europe. Pretty sure mine does not, and if it does, I'll find a way to make it work

I got it for $400 + shipping (from Iowa). I'm tempted to try a $150 (with shipping) one from Romania, but those all seem to be Thermo Top Z, without the circulating pump.

The aftermarket boards, yeah, from what I see, they replace the on-device controller board to do on/off via a single line, rather than require CANBUS. The big problem with the CANBUS units seems to be that they require being constantly connected to the bus. You can't just plug it in, tell it to run, and unplug the controller, it has to be actively controlled. Or at least that's my understanding. I may end up checking out one of the aftermarket controllers, particularly if I buy a second unit for tweaking/testing my controller code. It's kinda like buying a second ECM and doing performance tuning in a way.

But for now, I'm OK with just using the smart controller, mounted up on the dash or something like that.

musigenesis · 01-07-2021, 09:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Beirdo

Well, I'm glad I chose to look at the tires CAREFULLY while I was out putting the plates on her...

Of the 4 tires I can easily see, I have two coded as 1990, and two coded as 1993. Yeah, that won't do. I now have an appointment with Les Schwab to get 6 brand-spanking new LT225/75/R16E installed... The doorframe sticker says it needs at least load rating D, so this should suffice. There goes another $1200, but I'd rather do this NOW than have another nasty bus flipped due to blowout incident to report.

Not sure how old buses usually run on the tires, but holy crap, these are older than the bus itself (a 1999)!

Maybe the bus had good tires and the seller swapped out whatever random old tires he could find before trucking it up to you.

s2mikon · 01-07-2021, 10:37 PM

I wonder if you could use the Mercedes auxiliary coolant pump to move your coolant with the bmw/rover units? I think that it is 16mm hose. I'll have to go check mine.

Beirdo · 01-07-2021, 10:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by musigenesis

Maybe the bus had good tires and the seller swapped out whatever random old tires he could find before trucking it up to you.

That could be. Or the school district did before auction? Dunno. Either way, they will not be going on the interstate. Side roads, low speeds only until they are replaced. Shame to have to do it, but then again, I'd rather have new tires anyways in the end.

Beirdo · 01-07-2021, 10:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by s2mikon

I wonder if you could use the Mercedes auxiliary coolant pump to move your coolant with the bmw/rover units? I think that it is 16mm hose. I'll have to go check mine.

It wouldn't surprise me, but for me the entire reason for having it at all is to run while the engine is off, so I would think make sure the auxiliary coolant pump is actually wired to run with the ignition off.

With how cheap those used units are coming from European cars, it is just so tempting to try it out. I probably will order one not too long from now... but I have enough projects on the go for the bus for the time being. I do like the idea of fully controlling the heating cycle in my own code though. I have the diagnostics app for windows, so my plan is to figure out how to capture that UART data stream (which would be fairly simple really once it's on an external board) and then decode what WBus commands are being sent. With any luck, their app will actually capture it for me

Once that last wiring rig gets here from China, I believe I have all the parts I need to test this one, and then to install it, at first with the simple methodology (inline, no valves), and then later reinstall it with all the valves, etc I have in mind. Gotta bench test the puppy first though.

Which reminds me, need to get a yellow 5gal diesel jerry can... always something.

s2mikon · 01-07-2021, 11:02 PM

There is an ebay seller now selling a retrofit non canbus board now for 150 delivered. He is in Hungary. Don't know 300.00 plus wiring harness???

Beirdo · 01-08-2021, 01:19 AM

Yes, his would be the one I'd try out first, I think. I've heard good reports on YouTube from those who've tried his controller.

It's quite tempting, isn't it?

s2mikon · 01-08-2021, 08:23 AM

I also fount this. Connectors for the units and make your own harness. Webasto Diagnostics & Connectors - Futuranet Ltd - Shop

Beirdo · 01-08-2021, 11:36 AM

Bookmarked.

I really do like the premade harness though, it's got the wires all wrapped together, etc. It looks nice, and saves me a pile of work.

s2mikon · 01-08-2021, 01:21 PM

Check out the Valpro NATO style fuel cans sold on flea bay. With the matching nozzle you can pour the fuel in and get it all in the jeep. None of on your shoes. I can assure you that they are strong enough to be used as a wheel chock. I ran over one of mine full of gasoline with my 34 foot gillig and it didn't leak. Poor little thing. I guess I will have to paint a graphic below the drivers window of a fuel can to go along with the rabbits, deer, snakes, raccoon and other confirmed kills. If I keep it up I will soon be an ace!

Beirdo · 01-08-2021, 01:37 PM

Hmmm: "Note: Federal law prohibits the use of this container for the storage of fuel."

That's a shame. I think I'd better pass for now on that. I was more thinking the yellow plastic ones for the moment anyways. Like this one, which they didn't have in obvious stock when I was there last. I'll have to check again.

Native · 01-08-2021, 01:52 PM

A 5-gallon can should be great for the heater. Small enough to lug around when full but large enough to get a long run between fill-ups. I may have to adopt the same for our build.

Beirdo · 01-08-2021, 03:09 PM

It also gives you the opportunity to run the heater with non-road-taxes diesel. This could save some $$$ if you can find a place to fill the wee tank with untaxed fuel.

Jolly Roger bus 223 · 01-08-2021, 03:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by musigenesis

Maybe the bus had good tires and the seller swapped out whatever random old tires he could find before trucking it up to you.

i am wondering how for the OP has to drive it to get it to where he will be working on it at and how soon he plans to gut it build and be on the road?
i wouldnt spend money on tire right now if it was going to take me two years before i had to worry about it unless it was going to be a daily runner to get material/stuff for it.
once a week trip probably not unless the tires are completely dry rotted and wont hold air?
but brand new tires at the start of just getting home because of dates on the tires?

Beirdo · 01-08-2021, 04:29 PM

It will be used to run to Home Depot and the like to get plywood, etc... and I do intend to be camping in it (rather barebones) within a few months. I'm not risking my life just to save a bit of money now that I know I have to spend

Some of the tires are already showing cracking in the sidewall. I don't think it will be long before they decide to make a scene.

Gonna err on the side of caution here. They may still have some months of life left, or they might not. I don't feel like trusting my life to 30 year old rubber.

UFO pilot · 01-08-2021, 08:43 PM

I can't comment with anything helpful but I think Mr. Burns sums up my thoughts:

s2mikon · 01-08-2021, 09:13 PM

This is from the manufacture of the fuel cans. https://wavianusa.com/pages/fuel-can-faqs It seems that there is a lot of misinformation out there about fuel cans. And more than a few citations written to Jeep owners that like to carry fuel on their Jeep. I keep their website on bookmarked on my phone just in case I'm out of state. Valpro and Wavian are the same company. I can attest to the quality and design of the CARB certified nozzle that really works to insure that all fuel gets in the car and not on the ground.

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