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03-23-2017, 12:45 PM
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#1
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 18
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Thomas The Dank Engine
Hey guys!
Never had a forum before but I will do my best to make sense and not lose your interest.
I've had my bus for almost 8 months now. I've been doing all the destruction and raise roof work in that time and figured there is no need to bore people will the same monotonous work.
So my bus is a 2001 Thomas International w/ 135k miles and I believe somewhere around 7300 hours. It has an Allison 2000 and a dt466e.
I live in New England so rust happens. Considering I had the bus delivered at a good price, I can live with the rust. I'm willing to do the dirty peasant work to clean her up inside and out to protect against the future.
I think this is enough to get you up to speed. I'll post more with pictures of progress as soon as I figure out this fancy technology
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03-23-2017, 01:14 PM
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#2
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 18
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03-23-2017, 01:30 PM
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#3
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 18
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03-23-2017, 01:36 PM
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#4
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 18
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Floor repair
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03-23-2017, 01:52 PM
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#5
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Willamina, Oregon
Posts: 6,409
Coachwork: 97 Bluebird TC1000 5.9
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Welcome Freedom chaser
You're right, telling people how to remove rivets does get old. It looks like you've got a handle on the process anyway.
You're going to foam the interior when your lift is done? Is that a live in?
It's looking good so far. Keep it up.
__________________
Robin
Nobody's Business
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03-23-2017, 04:15 PM
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#6
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 18
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Thanks Robin!
Don't think I'll be doing the spray foam, due to the price. My numbers came out to around $1500 for it and I believe I can use traditional insulation for a lot cheaper.
Going to be living in her through all extreme temperatures so I do want to get the best I can afford without sacrificing too much quality. Even bought some dual pane house windows to help with heat loss!
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03-23-2017, 04:33 PM
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#7
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 18
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04-01-2017, 05:38 PM
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#8
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 18
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I love rust and it loves me
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04-01-2017, 08:02 PM
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#9
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Willamina, Oregon
Posts: 6,409
Coachwork: 97 Bluebird TC1000 5.9
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Nice work. To bad about the rust. Nice looking hat channels. Was that a 2' raise?
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Robin
Nobody's Business
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04-01-2017, 09:07 PM
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#10
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
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Great lookin' work...keep the pix a'comin'!
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04-02-2017, 01:33 AM
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#11
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: USA
Posts: 66
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The roof raise looks difficult? Im considering it. Great job on your build so far, hope you dont run into much more of that rust.
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04-08-2017, 10:12 PM
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#12
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 18
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Starting framing the windows. Here's a quick look at the first one. I'll have more pictures soon. Framing them was actually intimidating because it was the first thing that solidified my floor plan. Scary stuff but still looking forward to the layout..
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04-09-2017, 03:40 AM
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#13
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Winlcok, WA
Posts: 2,233
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I hope those windows have automotive glass and not house glass in them.
If it is house glass they won't live very well out on the road. And in an accident the glass will break into ugly shards instead of into a million little pieces.
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04-09-2017, 06:57 AM
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#14
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,829
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lincolnecho
the roof raise looks difficult? Im considering it. Great job on your build so far, hope you dont run into much more of that rust.
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just do it!
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04-09-2017, 09:18 AM
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#15
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 19,975
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
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lookin great!!!
be careful with House windows.. they are VERY susceptible to air leakage if they are the LEAST bit out of true... they arent designed for the constant flexing that a vehicle will give.. air leakage very well may become a problem... flexing the sash in a casement window will result in a busted Dual-pane seal...
the Tales of my actual House taught me lots about windows... I built a new house in 2004.. Nice fancy Andersen windows.. I had lots of air leakage and finally got fed up after 7 years and started a fight with the builder over it... Andersen sent reps out and found some of the windows were a 1/4" out of true top to bottom... that was out of the spec (by a lot for a building).. and allowed lots of cold air...
the upshot was All the windows got replaced and were put in nice and true... and nice warm house.. a house over the YEARS will settle some...
a School bus will cause your window to fit a different way just by how its parked...
I would seriously think about using some Dual pane RV style windows , the weather stripping in an RV window is designed to still keep the air out in various flexing situations... as well as the correct glass for the previous posts about accidents...
if the Bus is going to get parked, levelled, and never driven for years at a time id say house windows might just work... otherwise id be concerned..
-Christopher
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04-14-2017, 12:12 AM
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#16
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 18
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04-14-2017, 12:25 AM
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#17
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 18
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As for the windows, I did hear a lot about problems with house windows but I decided to gamble. I'm going to brace them still and hope for the best. If they hold up, I'm hoping for good insulation from extreme temps.
I'm getting ready to drill holes for riveting. Does anyone know what brand and size are good quality and industrial standards?
Starting to debate many things. Like heated floors with PEX. Spray insulation foam (if the right price). Was also thinking about drainage for plumbing and start planning out where to cut into the floor. We were thinking of welding threaded bungs to the floor inside and out for easy mounting. Also cutting holes in the roof for bathroom skylight and replacing existing roof hatches. Anyone know of good brands for the exhaust fans in the ceiling hatch? Want a roof deck too so have to prepare for mounting brackets. Was thinking of welding supports between ribs and cutting out the roof where we would weld brackets to those supports.
Oh yeah, I want to keep the window in the very back thats above the rear emergency exit. I ripped out the gasket because I needed to fix the rust, but I'm not sure where to find a new gasket cheap. I really like that window and it would be nostalgic too I figure.
Need to buy new taillights and all that also.
Cant wait to start the transition. I have to give a shoutout to Transcendence for his design with his from a minivan lift gate. You inspired the hell out of me! So I bought a lift gate and going to do the same thing. Getting closer to sealing this bus up! Cant wait.
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06-30-2017, 07:07 PM
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#18
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 18
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06-30-2017, 07:11 PM
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#19
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 18
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Horrible at using this forum. Apologies for the repeat photos
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08-03-2017, 10:03 PM
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#20
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New Member
Join Date: Aug 2017
Posts: 1
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Looking good!
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