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03-20-2017, 07:12 AM
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#41
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: NY
Posts: 774
Year: 2002
Coachwork: International
Engine: dt466
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EastCoastCB
After taking off my strobe, it didn't appear they made any attempt to seal it, and looks like it took a few tries to finally get the strobe on there... crooked!
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That's exactly the same thing in mine! It doesn't look like they tried at all. All of the rust in that part of the ceiling is coming from the hole where the wires come in for the strobe. The rest of the roof is great. Thankfully
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03-20-2017, 01:19 PM
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#42
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: NY
Posts: 774
Year: 2002
Coachwork: International
Engine: dt466
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
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Just as I thought...This is gonna take some work.
This is how the front section came out. Not too shabby.
So, after being down with the Flu in Feb, I really didn't feel like myself for 2 weeks...and then we had that miserable snow storm/blizzard a week ago and single digit temps which lasted like forever, I'm now finally back to work on my bus
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03-20-2017, 01:27 PM
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#43
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,826
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Man, I haven't been sick in a LONG time, till that nasty cold or whatever it was in Feb... I felt like crap for a couple weeks myself!
Glad to see you back to working on the bus. Post some more pics!
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03-21-2017, 04:11 AM
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#44
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: NY
Posts: 774
Year: 2002
Coachwork: International
Engine: dt466
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
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Me too. I thought I was superwoman or something because I hadn't even had a cold for years...now I'm sick all the time. I got a cold after the Flu and now I have another cold and it's only been a month since this all started.
I'm real happy that I'm finally to the floors...last step before it all starts to happen. Demolition has taken me a long time and soon it's time to build and Spring's here and it won't be bitter cold anymore.
I'm going to do the welding myself. My sister law says that her brother has been welding for 30 years and that he'll either come over and do the welding for me or he can come over and give me a tutorial. I'm psyched!
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03-21-2017, 04:23 AM
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#45
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Oklahoma aka "God's blind spot"
Posts: 2,447
Year: 1989
Coachwork: 1853FC International/Navistar
Chassis: 35' Retired Air Force Ambulance
Engine: DT466, MT643
Rated Cap: 6 souls and a driver
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tobeamiss
Me too. I thought I was superwoman or something because I hadn't even had a cold for years...now I'm sick all the time. I got a cold after the Flu and now I have another cold and it's only been a month since this all started.
I'm real happy that I'm finally to the floors...last step before it all starts to happen. Demolition has taken me a long time and soon it's time to build and Spring's here and it won't be bitter cold anymore.
I'm going to do the welding myself. My sister law says that her brother has been welding for 30 years and that he'll either come over and do the welding for me or he can come over and give me a tutorial. I'm psyched!
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Wear long sleeves and a button up shirt (buttoned to the top)....
Don't ask me how I know this
__________________
I once complained I had no shoes....
Until I met a man with no feet
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03-21-2017, 04:29 AM
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#46
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: NY
Posts: 774
Year: 2002
Coachwork: International
Engine: dt466
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
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Oh boy.
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03-21-2017, 04:32 AM
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#47
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: NY
Posts: 774
Year: 2002
Coachwork: International
Engine: dt466
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tobeamiss
Oh boy. Hope you didn't get burned?...
I'll probably wear a zip up suit. I wear one right now when using the grinder because I don't want to get filthy from the particles and dust flying.
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Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
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03-31-2017, 01:41 PM
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#48
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: NY
Posts: 774
Year: 2002
Coachwork: International
Engine: dt466
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
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Not much new to report. I'm still working on getting the floors up and finding a lot of rust. I'm treating it as I go with prep & etch.
Today I picked up some Rustoleum metal primer paint and Loctite premium construction adhesive for the corners where the floor meets the walls. I'll also be using the construction adhesive to afix some steel to cover the holes in the floor that I'm finding.
When I'm done dealing with all of the rust and painting the primer, it's on to insulation.
Moving right along....
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03-31-2017, 03:00 PM
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#49
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,826
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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03-31-2017, 04:39 PM
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#50
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: NY
Posts: 774
Year: 2002
Coachwork: International
Engine: dt466
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EastCoastCB
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Hehe so fitting. I'm on vacay next week and I will go a little further. Hopefully alot further! Thanks!!
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03-31-2017, 04:48 PM
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#51
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,826
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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- Bound to cover just a little more ground!
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04-02-2017, 06:32 AM
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#52
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: NY
Posts: 774
Year: 2002
Coachwork: International
Engine: dt466
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
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Instead of welding sheet metal to cover the holes, any thoughts on using the metal ceiling sheets cut to size and using the construction adhesive? It's not the same gauge ofcourse but the holes that I've found so far are not that big. Also where the wheel well meets the floor is rusted out but again not real bad. I would treat the undercarriage side of the hole too with etch and prep, then metal primer paint before using the adhesive.
Thoughts, concerns?
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04-02-2017, 03:35 PM
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#53
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,826
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tobeamiss
Instead of welding sheet metal to cover the holes, any thoughts on using the metal ceiling sheets cut to size and using the construction adhesive? It's not the same gauge ofcourse but the holes that I've found so far are not that big. Also where the wheel well meets the floor is rusted out but again not real bad. I would treat the undercarriage side of the hole too with etch and prep, then metal primer paint before using the adhesive.
Thoughts, concerns?
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sounds good to me. I'm not gonna weld all the floor holes up, I'm gona glue lil patches over em.
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04-02-2017, 06:30 PM
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#54
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: NY
Posts: 774
Year: 2002
Coachwork: International
Engine: dt466
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
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Awesome. Thanks!
The holes I have from rust are no larger than 4 inches in diameter. I think I got lucky considering it's a NY bus exposed to snow and salt for 15 yrs.
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04-02-2017, 09:58 PM
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#55
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Skoolie
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Columbus, Ohio
Posts: 142
Year: 1992
Coachwork: Fisher Body
Chassis: GM "B" Platform
Engine: 350 TBI Chevrolet
Rated Cap: 8
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There are special metal bonding adhesives used in the automotive industry that would work better. Use seam sealer on edges and remove or convert existing rust.
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__________________
Closest I have to a Bus would be my '92 Oldsmobile Custom Cruiser Station Wagon 1 of 4,347 built.
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04-04-2017, 06:55 AM
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#56
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: NY
Posts: 774
Year: 2002
Coachwork: International
Engine: dt466
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stewzer55
There are special metal bonding adhesives used in the automotive industry that would work better. Use seam sealer on edges and remove or convert existing rust.
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Ok great... I'll look for and do that. Thank you.
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06-11-2017, 01:49 PM
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#57
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: NY
Posts: 774
Year: 2002
Coachwork: International
Engine: dt466
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
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Today we work on getting the heaters out. At the same time I'll be flushing the system. Not sure how much coolant I need but I picked up 3 gallons of Prestone dex-cool extended life antifreeze/coolant along with 4 gallons of Distilled water. I did my research here (i couldn't even tell you who's post because I'm tapatalk challenged and read so many) but I think it was on the advisement of Cadillac to use distilled water because of all the minerals etc in tap water...thank you...
I haven't a clue what I'm doing but my son is coming over and said we could do this!
It's 93° right now and I'm ready for a nap in the AC but I have to do this and since he offered well, here we go...
It'll be a nice break from working on the exterior prep for painting anyway. That's a whole other story.
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06-11-2017, 05:48 PM
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#58
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Skoolie
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Columbus, Ohio
Posts: 142
Year: 1992
Coachwork: Fisher Body
Chassis: GM "B" Platform
Engine: 350 TBI Chevrolet
Rated Cap: 8
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Dexcool is probably not the best choice coolant for your engine, It's been somewhat problematic in GM vehicles from the mid '90s and up with its tendency to break down intake manifold gaskets and sludge up. I think fleetguard is a popular choice for coolant around here and YES distilled water will work best!
__________________
Closest I have to a Bus would be my '92 Oldsmobile Custom Cruiser Station Wagon 1 of 4,347 built.
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06-12-2017, 07:09 AM
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#59
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: NY
Posts: 774
Year: 2002
Coachwork: International
Engine: dt466
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stewzer55
Dexcool is probably not the best choice coolant for your engine, It's been somewhat problematic in GM vehicles from the mid '90s and up with its tendency to break down intake manifold gaskets and sludge up. I think fleetguard is a popular choice for coolant around here and YES distilled water will work best!
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Well the good news is we didn't get to it. Everything happens for a reason
We ran into a problem fitting the hoses... I bought a 1" hose adapter only to get home and find that he sold us a 3/4". Too late to go back because they closed for the day.
Thank you for the advice, I'll make the return and get some Fleetguard.
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07-10-2017, 08:27 AM
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#60
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: NY
Posts: 774
Year: 2002
Coachwork: International
Engine: dt466
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
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It is done. Actually it's been done for a while but I'm just now updating.
My brother came over and we worked out a solution for the coolant return back to the engine. We ended up using the brass (curved pipe) that was used on the heaters themselves. It's a wide loop but good because the brass pipe has flanges on each end. Also used the heavy duty clamps that were on the heaters.
Instead of doing a Flush with the distilled water, I just drained all of the coolant. We ran out of daylight so the next morning I filled it with the Fleetguard (thank you Stewarz66) mixed with distilled water. I couldn't believe all of the crud in the old stuff so I'm real happy I did this. I let it run for about 30 minutes and the temp gauge never went over 120.
Moving on...I now have all of the rust gone and/or treated, holes covered and smaller holes plugged and I'm ready for insulation. I'll be using spray foam so while I'm waiting for that to come in, I'll continue work on the outside. I have all holes patched, and most of the exterior sanded. This week I'll be on the roof caulking and prepping for paint. I got Henry's sealant, and a couple cans of elastomeric paint.
I feel like I'm working at a snails pace. If it wasn't for all rust on the floor and adhesive from the reflective tape I'm sure I'd be much further along.
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