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Old 07-15-2018, 02:01 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by o1marc View Post
What does it say on the back of your license what you can drive?
Yes, same thing so once I get the title changed to House Car, no longer a commercial vehicle, technically speaking.

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Old 07-15-2018, 04:12 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wkheathjr View Post
Yes, same thing so once I get the title changed to House Car, no longer a commercial vehicle, technically speaking.
Once you have seating for less than 16 passengers, you are no longer a commercial vehicle, no matter what the title says. Technically if it is not being used for business it isn't a commercial vehicle.
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Old 07-15-2018, 07:47 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by o1marc View Post
Most standard drivers licenses allow you to drive All recreational Vehicles, regardless or weight or brake system.
Dang, I need to move out of Illinois. I'm required to get a class B license, which means I need to take the written test to get a permit, then the driving test. I've already passed the written but I've been too lazy to take the driving test. Perhaps it's a state-by-state regulation?
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Old 07-15-2018, 07:58 PM   #24
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Dang, I need to move out of Illinois. I'm required to get a class B license, which means I need to take the written test to get a permit, then the driving test. I've already passed the written but I've been too lazy to take the driving test. Perhaps it's a state-by-state regulation?
What kind of license is required to drive a Recreational Vehicle in your state?
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Old 07-15-2018, 08:07 PM   #25
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I just checked, Yep, you're fooked in Illinois.

Driver's License Classifications
Illinois driver's licenses are classified by the GVWR of a vehicle (and any towed vehicles):
Class A — Any combination of motor vehicles with a GCWR of 26,001 pounds or more, providing the GVWR of the vehicle being towed is in excess of 10,000 pounds. Also allows for operation of Class B, C and D vehicles.
Class B — Any single motor vehicle with a GCWR of 26,001 pounds or more or any such vehicle towing another not in excess of 10,000 pounds. Also allows for operation of Class C and D vehicles.
Class C — Any motor vehicle with a GVWR of more than 16,000 pounds, but less than 26,001 pounds or any such vehicle towing another not in excess of 10,000 pounds. Also allows for operation of Class D vehicles.
Class D — Any motor vehicle with a GVWR of 16,000 pounds or less. Does not include A. B, C, L or M vehicles.
Class L — Any motor-driven cycle with less than 150cc displacement.
Class M — Any motorcycle or motor-driven cycle.
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Old 07-21-2018, 04:16 PM   #26
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So did you do a ride report on adv.rider??
Good bus
Keep the f650 they are good bikes
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Old 07-21-2018, 04:34 PM   #27
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Abs is a issue- most
Likely I’d have the brakes gone thru- air brakes work great and you don’t want to kill anyone. Sensors go wonky- steering could bebushings- new tires is a dead giveaway - the old ones probably wore funny. A semi truck shop specializing in front end work can check it out and make recommendations. Check for bondo- cause 140k is barely broken in, a front end accident could explain the steering and alignment problems. . The cat engine will last well given fresh fluids and filters. Secondary air filter replacement is super important. Radiator fluid-anti cavitation formula (additive now-kool) is super important. But that’s a great price. Getting it totally road worthy is Safe.
Welcome and hope you have another great chapter of your adventure! Cheers
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Old 07-21-2018, 04:52 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wkheathjr View Post
.......................
That would be 4 of 6 requirements to get title converted from Bus to House Car in NC. I'd like to try and get this done and inspected before Aug 10 when the 45 days temp tag from Ohio expires. I don't want to pay for register and title fee as a BUS then pay again to re-title into House Car.


Jolly Roger bus 223, can you share your experience how he changed title or did you keep it as a bus? Progressive Commercial insurance rep told me that if I changed it as RV I should call back to adjust my policy from bus to RV to get proper insurance coverage so that is what I am doing. Also, I don't have CDL so I assume getting House Car title and reg will help me avoid this? I was told by a buddy I may need to get Class B and Air Brake Endorsement instead? (I believe my bus is 30,600lbs??)
You should have gotten an OHIO TITLE in Ohio instead of the 30 day tag...
Reason being.... in Ohio all you have to do is sign a paper (no inspection) saying it is a motor home conversion. The paper states it has a sink, stove and bed. But they do not check. Even if they did check (which they won't) a bucket, air mattress, camp stove or hot plate would get you by. (It's a conversion in progress)

I suggest not doing this in the bigger metro areas... Your buddy in Georgetown ( Brown county) would be an excellent place as it's small town, no lines, no undue pain.... But you could do the Ohio title transfer in any county in Ohio. You state purchase price (on title)..pay sales tax and a few bucks for writing & title fee. CHEAP!

Then they issue you a new title stating bus is now a motor home.

You can get motor home tags ( CHEAP in Ohio and most places)..... motor home insurance with many insurance companies.( I use Grange)...
Need no special license to drive (no matter if Air brakes or such as long as less than 40ft. long... non-commercial motor home)

SINCE YOU STILL HAVE OHIO TEMP TAG.... you could still register it easily in Ohio as a motor home. Then transfer title in your home state later far more easily.

How do I know???..... I live in Ohio and been there, done that many times. EASY AS 1-2-3......

FOOD FOR THOUGHT..........
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Old 07-22-2018, 12:48 AM   #29
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Hi, Ken!

Just quickly about brake performance:
Are you familiar with air brakes? For this post I will assume this is the first air brake vehicle you drive.
The brake pedal is hinged AT THE FLOOR.
That means you need to press on the TOP of the pedal.
It generally involves lifting the foot before touching the pedal,
then pressing essentially DOWNWARD.

This is absolutely butt-up-side-alien to all normal people driving cars and pickups since shortly after the model T, yes. Friend of mine hopped in one of my buses last year and took off... and came back white in the face. And that was all it was.

All my best!
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Old 07-22-2018, 05:31 AM   #30
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Location: China Grove NC
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Year: 1997
Chassis: International 3600 vista
Engine: Navistar ,DT466E
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wkheathjr View Post
Removing seats. I read on here that most used angle grinder to remove seats. I tried using ratcheting wrench and impact wrench. No luck. I had buddy who I hired to do floor works on my rental homes over to help me remove seat. I went under the bus and held on to nuts while he wrench the bolts off. Well, it was good for few seats in the back, but not for the middle and front because of many things under the frame so I resorted to angle grinder.





After 3 blades and getting dark, I got all but one seat and two divider piece that is behind the driver seat. I'll get to them this week.





Battery were dead when I tried to crank it. I removed the battery and the drawer looked bad. So I decided to remove drawer too. That mean going under the box and removing two rusty bolts/nuts that keeps drawer from sliding out of the box if the door was opened.





Batteries were at 7.3v and 6.5v so I recharged them. They are now at 12.8v and 12.2v for almost 2 days and holding up at same volt. Possible something in the system of bus is charging it a little at time. What's the chance it may be from electric motor for the door??

Removing the door handler from the drawer and the 100amp circuit breaker was somewhat challenging but got them off.


Wire brush on angle grinder to clean the panel.. not 100% rust free but they looked much better.


I plan to relocate battery box little to the left and make boxes to the right for solar batteries on left side of the bus so I am not going to bother with rust inside the box (see pic above).

For now, the plan is to try and get battery drawer in very good shape and put it back in there then I'm going to build a temporary structure to hold:
-microwave
-sink with water tank overhead to feed water to the faucet, 5 gallon pail under the sink
-small dorm fridge (does ice box also mean cooler???)
-gas buddy heater.

That would be 4 of 6 requirements to get title converted from Bus to House Car in NC. I'd like to try and get this done and inspected before Aug 10 when the 45 days temp tag from Ohio expires. I don't want to pay for register and title fee as a BUS then pay again to re-title into House Car.


Jolly Roger bus 223, can you share your experience how he changed title or did you keep it as a bus? Progressive Commercial insurance rep told me that if I changed it as RV I should call back to adjust my policy from bus to RV to get proper insurance coverage so that is what I am doing. Also, I don't have CDL so I assume getting House Car title and reg will help me avoid this? I was told by a buddy I may need to get Class B and Air Brake Endorsement instead? (I believe my bus is 30,600lbs??)
Hi there in in NC as well but once you get the bus titled just as a bus it is only $20 to re-title as an RV. And if you need any help let me no.
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Old 07-22-2018, 05:39 AM   #31
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Engine: Navistar ,DT466E
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jolly Roger bus 223 View Post
Hi,
From the beach's of NC.
I work all over the state and know seven springs so let me know if you need some help with anything and I will try to help work it out.
Plus there is a bus graveyard in Washington NC that might have an AC unit but it will only be factory road AC.
And ADVANCED MAITENANCE is a top notch go to mobile diesel mechanics service
Good luck and let me know if I can help in any way
Hi I have been looking for a bus yard for over a month now and no luck. But I just read your post ! Is there any way you could send me the address of the bus yard please?
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Old 07-24-2018, 12:18 PM   #32
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Join Date: May 2018
Location: Seven Springs, NC
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Engine: CAT C7202
Quote:
Originally Posted by Seriousracer View Post
So did you do a ride report on adv.rider??
Good bus
Keep the f650 they are good bikes
Yes I do but sorry to say I am not much of writer it is probably boring.. "Deaf Rider's solo journey exploring Americas" is the title of my RR.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirtdoctor View Post
Abs is a issue- most
Likely I’d have the brakes gone thru- air brakes work great and you don’t want to kill anyone. Sensors go wonky- steering could bebushings- new tires is a dead giveaway - the old ones probably wore funny. A semi truck shop specializing in front end work can check it out and make recommendations. Check for bondo- cause 140k is barely broken in, a front end accident could explain the steering and alignment problems. . The cat engine will last well given fresh fluids and filters. Secondary air filter replacement is super important. Radiator fluid-anti cavitation formula (additive now-kool) is super important. But that’s a great price. Getting it totally road worthy is Safe.
Welcome and hope you have another great chapter of your adventure! Cheers
I agree. I wouldn't want to make national news on this. haha I'll get it checked out. Thanks for the tip on CAT engine.

Quote:
Originally Posted by CH777 View Post
You should have gotten an OHIO TITLE in Ohio instead of the 30 day tag...
Reason being.... in Ohio all you have to do is sign a paper (no inspection) saying it is a motor home conversion. The paper states it has a sink, stove and bed. But they do not check. Even if they did check (which they won't) a bucket, air mattress, camp stove or hot plate would get you by. (It's a conversion in progress)

I suggest not doing this in the bigger metro areas... Your buddy in Georgetown ( Brown county) would be an excellent place as it's small town, no lines, no undue pain.... But you could do the Ohio title transfer in any county in Ohio. You state purchase price (on title)..pay sales tax and a few bucks for writing & title fee. CHEAP!

Then they issue you a new title stating bus is now a motor home.

You can get motor home tags ( CHEAP in Ohio and most places)..... motor home insurance with many insurance companies.( I use Grange)...
Need no special license to drive (no matter if Air brakes or such as long as less than 40ft. long... non-commercial motor home)

SINCE YOU STILL HAVE OHIO TEMP TAG.... you could still register it easily in Ohio as a motor home. Then transfer title in your home state later far more easily.

How do I know???..... I live in Ohio and been there, done that many times. EASY AS 1-2-3......

FOOD FOR THOUGHT..........
Maybe. I'll see that same friend at my beach house this weekend..

Quote:
Originally Posted by Elliot Naess View Post
Hi, Ken!

Just quickly about brake performance:
Are you familiar with air brakes? For this post I will assume this is the first air brake vehicle you drive.
The brake pedal is hinged AT THE FLOOR.
That means you need to press on the TOP of the pedal.
It generally involves lifting the foot before touching the pedal,
then pressing essentially DOWNWARD.

This is absolutely butt-up-side-alien to all normal people driving cars and pickups since shortly after the model T, yes. Friend of mine hopped in one of my buses last year and took off... and came back white in the face. And that was all it was.

All my best!
Hmm!! I gotta try that!

Quote:
Originally Posted by CoryBodiker View Post
Hi there in in NC as well but once you get the bus titled just as a bus it is only $20 to re-title as an RV. And if you need any help let me no.
The tag expires on 11 of August and I already got seats out so I'm almost there. I still got time to get convert done. Unless they reject my temporary convert. haha


Haven't got much work done on the bus.. With heat index, building lean-on shelter for my mother's riding mower and lawn stuff, and some rain.. then a weekend trip to Frederick MD to friend's house and checking out Harper's Ferry, Antietam Battlefield site, & Gettyburg battlefield site.

I sanded the battery drawer and painted it.. I need to find two long bolts that has screw thread going to the head so it will stop the drawer from falling out when pulling out. Soon when weather clear of rain I'll run down to my property and get battery set up then drive it to mom's and I can do work on it here daily.
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Old 07-30-2018, 07:03 PM   #33
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Well, I went to the bus at my property, installed the drawer then the batteries. Both batteries had 12.2 volts.



When I turned the ignition. No respond. I flipped headlight switch and see light. I flipped interior light switch and light came on. I walked around making sure wheelchair lifter door is secured properly. Opened it and closed it. Made sure emergency exit door is closed. Open and closed it to be sure. I know both are closed good because when I open it I see the light come on and off when I close the door. No idea why the gauge is not responding when I turned the ignition ON but I see lights just fine. 12.2v battery life from both batteries. Clueless what to do. Is there something I am missing? Some kind of reset button or hidden switch or something?? And although the lights comes on, could not open or close electric door (It would do that only if the ignition is on "ON" but wouldn't open/close if the ignition is 'OFF'. I'm stuck. Any idea?

I will probably call the bus garage where I bought it and see if there is any trick or technique how to crank the bus because sometime some vehicle or motorcycle or bus have certain way to crank. If no luck then I'm gonna need help. Also, how do I get hold of manual for the bus? I tried google but no luck. Thanks!

Oh yea, I forgot to mention.. I checked the relay and when I pulled it out then re-plug it, I can feel it react so it must be working OK?

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Old 07-30-2018, 08:41 PM   #34
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Start by charging each battery individually. Check electrolyte levels in each before charging.
You have corroded cables from neg to neg and pos to pos by looks of the pic. Clean all connections and soak those bad ends in vinegar and then dry and put back together. Then start your engine.


New to you buses have a few tricks to get used to but this is everyday maintenance which most neglect.


John
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Old 07-30-2018, 09:04 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackJohn View Post
Start by charging each battery individually. Check electrolyte levels in each before charging.
You have corroded cables from neg to neg and pos to pos by looks of the pic. Clean all connections and soak those bad ends in vinegar and then dry and put back together. Then start your engine.


New to you buses have a few tricks to get used to but this is everyday maintenance which most neglect.


John
John, thanks for your reply.. batteries were charged from 6 volts to 12 volts so they were recharged. Cables were sanded and cleaned prior to reconnect and still to no available. Before the batteries were recharged, there was no lights in the bus but now there is.
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Old 07-30-2018, 09:25 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wkheathjr View Post
John, thanks for your reply.. batteries were charged from 6 volts to 12 volts so they were recharged. Cables were sanded and cleaned prior to reconnect and still to no available. Before the batteries were recharged, there was no lights in the bus but now there is.



How did you get a 12v reading, with a meter or did the charger just stop.


12v is lots to turn lights on.



With a meter you should be seeing about 13.2 v roughly on each battery.
Slow charging works best so maybe try charging them again and leave the charger on each for 24 hours. let the batteries rest after that and test after resting for 4 hours.

A poor battery will drag down a decent battery fast so I don't think they are up to snuff.
The cables are green going inside the insulation from the pics. Not good!

That takes away starting power. And charging capability too.
You might just buy new jumpers unless you open them right up for a look and then have to tape them back up.

A C7 is that correct? Any other issues yet with it?


John
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Old 07-30-2018, 09:31 PM   #37
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Location: Seven Springs, NC
Posts: 39
Year: 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackJohn View Post
How did you get a 12v reading, with a meter or did the charger just stop.


12v is lots to turn lights on.



With a meter you should be seeing about 13.2 v roughly on each battery.
Slow charging works best so maybe try charging them again and leave the charger on each for 24 hours. let the batteries rest after that and test after resting for 4 hours.

A poor battery will drag down a decent battery fast so I don't think they are up to snuff.
The cables are green going inside the insulation from the pics. Not good!

That takes away starting power. And charging capability too.
You might just buy new jumpers unless you open them right up for a look and then have to tape them back up.

A C7 is that correct? Any other issues yet with it?


John
Yes, I used the multimeter reader. As of now, we can't say if it is the battery. There should be at least something when you turn the ignition on, right? I have not get to the point of cranking the bus because when I turn the ignition to 'ON', the gauge is not responding. Normally, all gauge would react going all the way to the right before it comes back and then give the proper reading of each. But now, when I turn the ignition to 'ON', nothing happens. But if I flip interior light or headlight switch, I get the light. Why is there no respond when I turn ignition to 'ON'? I thought maybe because of some emergency thing such as wheelchair lifter or exit door could be loose but they weren't. Both exit on rooftop are secured. Still no respond?
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Old 07-30-2018, 09:39 PM   #38
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Battery issues. 12 volts isn’t quite a full charged battery. Save yourself money on a toasted starter - weak batteries will toast a starter. But new batteries of get the largest battery to fit in the box. You will solve plenty of headaches.
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Old 07-30-2018, 10:09 PM   #39
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Chassis: GMC
Engine: Cat 3116
Rated Cap: 72
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wkheathjr View Post
Yes, I used the multimeter reader. As of now, we can't say if it is the battery. There should be at least something when you turn the ignition on, right? I have not get to the point of cranking the bus because when I turn the ignition to 'ON', the gauge is not responding. Normally, all gauge would react going all the way to the right before it comes back and then give the proper reading of each. But now, when I turn the ignition to 'ON', nothing happens. But if I flip interior light or headlight switch, I get the light. Why is there no respond when I turn ignition to 'ON'? I thought maybe because of some emergency thing such as wheelchair lifter or exit door could be loose but they weren't. Both exit on rooftop are secured. Still no respond?

How old are those 2 batteries? I see they are maintenance free, the worst you could buy imho. Get some where the caps come off the cells. How many cca's are they from the nameplate data?
I'm still not liking those battery connections and jumper cables. In cleaning those cable ends, you want to see bare metal again, shining metal. Test them for continuity if you can and see if they are not burnt out. One or both might be. And the battery posts themselves must be cleaned up good with baking soda and water paste.


Which relay did you pull to test? You did that with power on I assume?

Not a good idea, you can feel a relay work just by holding it in your fingers. You might have a dead coil in that relay from pulling it with power on.


Back to you


John
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Old 07-30-2018, 10:48 PM   #40
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Join Date: May 2018
Location: Seven Springs, NC
Posts: 39
Year: 2007
Engine: CAT C7202
Batteries are old.. for sure. Recharged more than a week ago and left it sitting more than a week and they were at same volt after they were recharged. At same volt today after it was connected yesterday.

Ignition was off when we took relay out but felt it responding when plugged back in. My friend was with me when we had a look at it. He is an electrician and used to drive 18 wheelers for a living. So of course we wouldn't do anything to burn it. He and I are in agreement it is possible something in the bus that could disable the ability. Many people came in and had a look at it so who know what one may have done without knowing it.

We thought about jumpstarting it. One of my tenant is dating a guy that fix excavator and bulldozer for the sand & gravel company, and he has the heavy duty stuff in back of company truck. He said he would help. But when?
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