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Old 12-16-2019, 10:14 AM   #61
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Those look like sweet headlights. Do you recall the brand?

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Old 12-16-2019, 10:48 AM   #62
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Those look like sweet headlights. Do you recall the brand?
https://www.amazon.com/Headlights-Fr...514768&sr=8-10

Here's a link to my headlights.
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Old 12-16-2019, 12:15 PM   #63
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Run a circular saw through the plywood all the way up right next to the row of screws and take the plywood out in large sheets.
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Old 12-25-2019, 07:24 PM   #64
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Run a circular saw through the plywood all the way up right next to the row of screws and take the plywood out in large sheets.
That's what I've been doing. So far it's working but the factory workers seem to have randomly applied dollops of glue everywhere when laying down the plywood. Must've been a Monday when it left the assembly line in Fort Valley.

Took advantage of the unseasonably warm weather we've been having (50+ degrees and sunny in Wisconsin in late December, wtf!!)






I can't even stress enough just how much value pass-through understorage adds to a skoolie build. I will have to do very little work when installing waste water tanks PLUS I will have about 2 pickup beds worth of luggage space down there.

It's also incredibly useful during the conversion as I can store tools and other clutter in there when I'm working inside the bus.

(Never mind the bent doors, that was courtesy of the PO's driver that also smacked the rear cap)
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Old 01-28-2020, 10:05 AM   #65
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Found a deal on used Alcoa wheels, pics to come.

$100 per is the cheapest I have ever found them.
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Old 01-28-2020, 10:46 AM   #66
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Are there any more for $100? I’ve been hoping to get some
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Old 01-28-2020, 10:52 AM   #67
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Are there any more for $100? I’ve been hoping to get some
seller had 36 rims, another guy came along after me and bought all of the remaining ones

Has anyone here had any experience going from steel wheels to aluminum? I'm hearing rumours that I may need new studs on the rear axle since aluminum wheels are thicker.

However I will be retaining steel on the inner wheels so hopefully I still have enough stud space to be ok.
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Old 01-28-2020, 11:44 AM   #68
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New studs and barrels. Flange is thinner on steel wheels.
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Old 01-28-2020, 11:46 AM   #69
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Steel to steel take a certain barrel, steel to aluminum take a certain barrel, alum to alum is another barrel. Each has their own stud. I have sold thousands. Also standard and metric. Different styles also. Knowledgeable parts tech can easily do it.
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Old 01-29-2020, 09:40 AM   #70
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Steel to steel take a certain barrel, steel to aluminum take a certain barrel, alum to alum is another barrel. Each has their own stud. I have sold thousands. Also standard and metric. Different styles also. Knowledgeable parts tech can easily do it.
Any idea if the front axle will need new studs as well?

I'm assuming most tire shops are capable of doing this? Also seems like people are recommending that the hubs/bearings be done at the same time.
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Old 02-01-2020, 02:29 PM   #71
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New wheels! Can’t wait to get these on the bus. Will have to wait until tire time though
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Old 02-23-2020, 09:15 PM   #72
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Did heater removal today. I have to say this method worked really well. I used C clamps and slips of wood to pinch the hoses near the heaters. This allowed me to quickly disconnect the hoses and drain the little bit of coolant in each one and focus on draining the heaters (I had three of the big ones in my bus so thats a lot of coolant!).

I spilled a bit on the floor with the first heater but by the time I got to the last one it was down to zero spilled





Current state of the bus interior. That 2nd seat in the background was a steal, $20 for a Flexsteel conversion van seat! Needs a swivel base but it will be my copilot seat when its ready.

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Old 03-29-2020, 07:45 PM   #73
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Finally starting to drop the ceiling panels. Figured out the best method was using an air hammer punch for the middle bit then knocking them off with the chisel bit.



Scraping the remnants of fiberlglass insulation off the ceiling panels is a really nasty job. At least I found several spots where it was damp and will be monitoring those areas for leaks.



Also for those of you that claim the inner ceiling panels are a structural component of the bus, look closer. Notice how that is perforated ceiling throughout the entire bus. It is not structural in any way and has all the strength of tin foil. I was able to rip it with minimal force.



Bluebird sells this as an option. "Acoustical premium ceiling" is what they call it. Our buses at work have the first few panels in the front of the bus like this with the rest being solid steel.



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Old 03-29-2020, 09:00 PM   #74
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You were able to rip your ceiling? My ceiling was also perforated but it was perforated 20 ga which is still not something that tears easily (note: I am in the ceiling-is-not-structural camp, just curious about what your ceiling is made from).
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Old 03-29-2020, 10:16 PM   #75
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I’m pretty sure that 20 gauge steel on the inside would help reinforce the bus in any rollover accident. It is no way structurally required though. I pulled mine out and raised the roof, yes it’s not as safe for a rollover as it would’ve been but with any luck I won’t roll it over.
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Old 04-11-2020, 11:14 PM   #76
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Score a huge deal on a pair of roof ACs. $225 for a pair of new-ish Dometic 13.5k btu units.... Still need to buy the interior control panels but it's still less than half what ONE of these costs online.




Started wiring removal. All the wiring for the dome lights, strobe, deleted heaters, speakers and AM/FM radio/PA unit are gone. I started deciphering the interlock system. So far I think it's still active. Bus cranks but doesn't fire up. Buzzer is gone however. Does anyone with a Bluebird All American from this era have a method?

I see a wire coming off the starter solenoid and connects on the fuse block. I'm wondering if possibly all I need is to ground that wire and it would then bypass all the interlocks in the passenger area.

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Old 04-12-2020, 01:30 AM   #77
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Wow that’s a steal for those air conditioners, where did you find them? If you aren’t doing a heat strip I may have a control box and thermostat for you to go with one, I took them out from my old travel trailer when I put a heat strip in. Send me the model number and I’ll check if they’re compatible.
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Old 04-12-2020, 11:42 AM   #78
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That's a really nice bus! Great drivetrain and hardly any rust. Congrats on the find.
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Old 04-20-2020, 12:24 PM   #79
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Did a lot of little things today, hard to concentrate on just one task when there's so many.



Started painting the RV door


Started taking off the old clearance lights.



Pic with the new LED clearance lights fitted. These simply require a 3/4 inch hole and then the rubber grommet holds them in place. They are still very bright despite being a fraction of the size of the old ones. All the Bluebirds at my company have them and I prefer the look.



Also ordered a bag of the amber ones and will start replacing and adding ones throughout the rest of the bus.





Started bondo-ing all the screw holes from the lights and old radio equipment. Current plan is to mount CB antennas on the mirror brackets so no need for the old 2 way mount that was trashed anyway.



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Old 05-14-2020, 12:26 AM   #80
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Been working around the bus on various things.

The steel window deletes I ordered finally showed up. $30 each at the metal shop. Will be ordering 4-5 more depending on my final layout. Just need to get the butyl tape for sealing them up and then I plan on riventing them to the ribs from the inside.





Started laying down the subfloor. 1 inch foam board then plywood. I really need to get around to installing that (free) air ride seat I got months ago! Its got a lot more adjustments and is a huge upgrade over the crappy factory Bluebird driver's seat.

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