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Old 06-04-2024, 01:44 PM   #1
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2010 International questions

I bought a 2010 international school bus from Michigan last summer. We are just getting around to removing some of the excess wiring and we came upon this panel. Does anyone happen to know what this panel controls and if we were able to remove it? Any help is appreciated.

Located in the front near the door. Behind where the dash heater was.
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Old 06-04-2024, 02:53 PM   #2
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Google search sez that is your body control module. DO NOT MESS WITH IT OR ANY WIRES CONNECTED TO IT!!!!!!!
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Old 06-04-2024, 03:36 PM   #3
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I can foresee more help requests for cut BCM wiring in the future!

Triple what Kentucky Dreaming said, LEAVE THOSE WIRES ALONE!
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Old 06-04-2024, 05:46 PM   #4
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Zackly, EWO! Why do peeps cut wires when they don't have a clue what they do???
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Old 06-04-2024, 06:35 PM   #5
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I don't know why people want to start chopping wire up and don't even have a wiring schematic. It's just nuts!
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Old 06-04-2024, 09:08 PM   #6
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X S Wire

Quote:
Originally Posted by ewo1 View Post
I can foresee more help requests for cut BCM wiring in the future!

Triple what Kentucky Dreaming said, LEAVE THOSE WIRES ALONE!
Ditto. Consider them as 'Spares' for future use.
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Old 06-04-2024, 10:48 PM   #7
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I can see why they want to remove things.

I would personally want a bus that's simply mechanical with as little wires as possible. Most don't understand the dependencies behind those wires, and thinks of them as unnecessary and also want as little as possible to have to maintain.

If I get to a point where my 3 box T444E dies or AT545 dies, and I can't get an upgraded transmission, I may simply rip it all out completely, engine, trans, wires, computers. Get rid of it all, and just throw a simple diesel motor in there, and run my own simple wiring to lights etc from the battery directly to starter, without computers.

I did this with my starter recently. I ran a bypass around the whole key system so if there's a no start issue, it just hotwires the bus with a push button direct to the starter. It's simple, effective, not tied to 20 solenoids wondering which one is dead leaving you stranded. I don't have to be an electrician to fix the issue. Push the switch, connects the starter solenoid and off to the races. The "Upgrade" was cheap, and will likely pay for itself down the road when I'm stranded again for some 30 year old relay or solenoid going bad finally. The bypass switch will hotwire it for me and I can diagnose it later on my own time, not when I'm out on the road.
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Old 06-05-2024, 01:51 AM   #8
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we are trying to slim down the wires so we know what we have and make room for new. we have removed a whole bunch of wires that were unnecessary and we just want to make sure we don't go cutting anything crazy. we have no idea where to get a schematic, but I'm an electrician and were not gonna give up just because its hard :P
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Old 06-05-2024, 01:53 AM   #9
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hopefully we can avoid that we have enough trouble with the brake lights already XD stay tuned for the S**t show coming to a town near you LMAO
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Old 06-05-2024, 07:08 AM   #10
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ugh!!! ANOTHER ONE!! who appears to be yanking out the right hand side defrost / heat system as well..



as for the BCM it controls many functions..



if you want an all mechanical simplified bus then dont buy a 2010 !! .


even the bus like nikitis has can be simplified as the engine computer is JUST an engine computer... the most you would find would be a simple contact interlock for a door or such thats easily wired past...



if you are someone who wants to tear every damn extra piece of wire out of the bus then sell the 2010 and find something older...


newer busses are going tio have wires.. and it seems all the time there are posts from people with 2005 and newer busses.. "I cut a few wires and now it wont run"...





now another word of adivce.. put the defrost system back or build a new one.. and DONT BURY the BCM!!! they are known to have issues so its somewhat likely at some point you will need to gain access to that little gem.. dont encase it in some fance' wood enclosure thats bolted screwed and glued together..


now if you *MUST* cut wires.. then do ONE WIRE AT A TIME.. and just snip it but dont remove it.. then make sure EVERYTHING on your bus works after EACH WIRE..


by everything I mean you start it up, make surei t will go in reverse and drive.. that there are no check trans or check engine lights.. that your wipres and headlights and DRL asnd tail lights, turn signals, and brake lights work.. and any interior functions you may still have.. fans, heaters, A/C, etc that are tied to the bus..



truly i dont understand the fascination with removing so many wires.. as for International.. each wire is stamped with a little tiny circuit ID usually about a foot or so from its end.. so you can say "oh look i found a blue wire that goes to the heater I no longer need.. and it is stamped circuit '65A' at the heater end.. so you could find '65A' in the switch panel and be pretty safe in disconnecting it as you found it on both ends...



ok
*RANT OFF*


back to my espresso, Audiocodes MP1288's, Phybridge, RedHat, and Polycom...
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Old 06-12-2024, 06:32 PM   #11
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I don't come on here very often anymore, but the minute I saw it had to do with wiring I knew I'd get a smile from Chris's reply ��
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