Angle Grinder Selection

[SeanF]

Any angle grinder will do it. What is screwed onto the arbor is what counts.

[Ob1]

I have a Harbor Freight grinder, it has and is serving me well. Even came with spare motor brushes that I havent had to use, had it about 5 years now.

[bus-ted]

As far as the style of grinder goes, I'm partial to the red one w/ the paddle style switch. They're alot more comfortable and easy to use. As far as brands go, it seems like these chinese knock-offs are a whole lot better than they were even a couple of years back. You can't beat the price- that's for sure.

[Diesel Dan]

For cutting off seat bolts be sure to get a bunch of the thinnest grinding wheels you can find, and be sure they are rated for metal cutting. Also, some of the wheels have different sized arbor holes, and some are flat whereas others are offset. So be sure to get the right style and size for whatever grinder you get. I've found that the thicker (1/4") wheels are also handy for general rust grinding or shaping. You can really work at something without fear of breaking the wheel.

[Sojakai]

Go to the local Harley shop and buy a full set of leather. I have heard good things about the heavier Welding Leather also.

But mostly, I have heard to wear jeans, coat, and work gloves so if the blades break, they are going to hit those and not skin.

[Diesel Dan]

I agree with MightyBus that impact wrench and vice grips is the best way to do it if the bolts are accessible. I had an assistant, so that made it go even quicker. Several of the rusty bolts just snapped off. My method for grinding was to use a thin blade and just start from the side of the bolt head, get about half way through, and then use a 6' pry bar which I used like a battering ram to pop off the head of the bolt. I didn't break any blades, but I was also careful to not use much pressure or let the blade flex or bind.

[Papabear]

Originally Posted by mightybus

Tim,
You can unbolt most of the bolts without having to grind if you are fortunate.I used wd-40 then I used vise-grips on the top and an air ratchet on the bottom.(one man job) I only ground when i found a in-assessable nuts on the bottom. When you do grind, this is the way I did it. I cut a cross on the top of the nut (+) with a thin blade, because that is how you are supposed to use them.Don't bear down on the sides of the blade because they will break. i.e. cut with the edge. Then I used a thick blade to grind them off. (You can bear down somewhat with a thick blade if need be.) Hope this helps.

The thin blades are made more for cutting metal. Don't bear down on them or they WILL shatter. The thicker blades are for grinding, either on the face or the end. Thin for cutting holes in metal. I.e. installing water heater in sidewall, roof vents, etc.

[Diesel Dan]

Originally Posted by Pied Typer

... And for the love of god, wear a dust mask!

Does anyone know how to prevent your glasses from fogging up as a result of air escaping from the top edge of the dust mask?

[kamoo]

I have the orange one and it works good but sounds like its going to kick the bucket at any moment. Its about the only tool I have got from HF that has lasted although it was used very little. After having some experience with my first bus and now on my second, I believe you are better off spending a little more and avoiding HF for anything but mechanical tools i.e. wrenches. If you have to plug it into electric or air its a crapshoot from there. My cutoff wheel still works but my heatgun worked about 5 mins and died, air hammer was dead out of the box, trickle charger lasted 6 mos, brad nailer dead out of the box etc etc. After all of the aggravation I swore I would spend little more to buy my cheap tools from at least Home Depot. My Ryobi rechargable 18v drill has never let me down after 3 years of constant use. My $30 black & decker jigsaw went 1.5 buses before the guide wheel broke and I used the snot out of it. Id say save your money, there are cheap name brand grinders in the price HF has them.