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09-29-2016, 10:02 AM
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#1
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Skoolie
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 153
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Attaching metal to cover hatch
What gauge sheet metal would be ideal?
How would one attach it? Epoxy? Screws? Any other adhesive that is used?
I read about butyl tape. I'm assuming folks use that with self tappers to attach their sheet metal?
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09-29-2016, 10:06 AM
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#2
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Kansas
Posts: 492
Year: 2000
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: T444E
Rated Cap: Your mom +1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EricW
What gauge sheet metal would be ideal?
How would one attach it? Epoxy? Screws? Any other adhesive that is used?
I read about butyl tape. I'm assuming folks use that with self tappers to attach their sheet metal?
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I would use whatever gauge metal the rest of the roof is, although you could prob get away with 18ga. The way I would do it without welding is cut the panel so there is a 4 inch or so overlap over the hole and use automotive seam sealer and 6 or 8 rivets on each side to secure it in place. I'm a big fan of rivets over screws though... Or if you're decent with a welder you could just weld in a piece of sheet metal and not have to worry about sealing the seams...
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09-29-2016, 10:48 AM
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#3
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Vacaville, Ca
Posts: 1,634
Year: 1988
Coachwork: Crown / Pusher
Engine: 8.3 Cummins
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I did a 2in overlap using auto seam sealer then rivets every 1".
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09-29-2016, 12:28 PM
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#4
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Skoolie
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 153
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Is it worth trying to rent a rivet gun? I could probably ask around and see about borrowing. Thoughts on those 2 part epoxy tubes?
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09-29-2016, 04:28 PM
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#5
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Kansas
Posts: 492
Year: 2000
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: T444E
Rated Cap: Your mom +1
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You can buy a rivet gun at your local harbor freight type store for less than 40 bucks...
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09-29-2016, 05:03 PM
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#6
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Skoolie
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Sarasota, Florida
Posts: 171
Year: 1995
Coachwork: International
Chassis: Carpenter
Engine: d466 mechanical
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Hf has a rivet gun for 29 bucks, it worked for about 1000 rivets on my reskinning, good buy
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Nowhere Fast - Sarasota, Florida
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09-29-2016, 05:24 PM
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#7
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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I got the $70 HF riveter. The only sub-$300 one I could find that will do 1/4" rivets.
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10-01-2016, 02:32 PM
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#8
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Skoolie
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 153
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Thanks that is the route I will take then!
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10-01-2016, 03:08 PM
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#9
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Skoolie
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 100
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Quick side-question for those rivets.
Do you put any type of sealant between the riveted sheets to weatherseal things or the simple fact of riveting holds it tight enough to keep water out?
Or you put the sealant on the joint after the sheet is completely riveted?
Thanks! and sorry for the thread-jack!
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10-03-2016, 06:26 PM
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#10
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Vacaville, Ca
Posts: 1,634
Year: 1988
Coachwork: Crown / Pusher
Engine: 8.3 Cummins
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrblah
Quick side-question for those rivets.
Do you put any type of sealant between the riveted sheets to weatherseal things or the simple fact of riveting holds it tight enough to keep water out?
Or you put the sealant on the joint after the sheet is completely riveted?
Thanks! and sorry for the thread-jack!
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I did both
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10-03-2016, 06:40 PM
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#11
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Darrington, Wa.
Posts: 304
Year: 1994
Coachwork: Genesis/Am-Tran Tall Roof
Chassis: International, 643 transmission
Engine: DT 466ci 250hp, International
Rated Cap: 86 screaming Monsters
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EricW
What gauge sheet metal would be ideal?
How would one attach it? Epoxy? Screws? Any other adhesive that is used?
I read about butyl tape. I'm assuming folks use that with self tappers to attach their sheet metal?
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Why does any one even remove these to block them off? Why not leave them and maybe use them?
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10-03-2016, 06:45 PM
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#12
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Vacaville, Ca
Posts: 1,634
Year: 1988
Coachwork: Crown / Pusher
Engine: 8.3 Cummins
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Geo Jeff
Why does any one even remove these to block them off? Why not leave them and maybe use them?
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My AC units will be mounted in at least 1 of them
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10-03-2016, 06:58 PM
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#13
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Darrington, Wa.
Posts: 304
Year: 1994
Coachwork: Genesis/Am-Tran Tall Roof
Chassis: International, 643 transmission
Engine: DT 466ci 250hp, International
Rated Cap: 86 screaming Monsters
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I was using portable dual hose a/c units. I read there more efficient not having the sun on them.
I was hoping to use the exit hatches to vent some air or maybe even get access to a storage roof rack? with a ladder.
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10-03-2016, 07:04 PM
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#14
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Geo Jeff
Why does any one even remove these to block them off? Why not leave them and maybe use them?
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They're chintzy as hell, they're horrible for heat and cold, and they leak horribly.
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10-03-2016, 07:08 PM
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#15
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Darrington, Wa.
Posts: 304
Year: 1994
Coachwork: Genesis/Am-Tran Tall Roof
Chassis: International, 643 transmission
Engine: DT 466ci 250hp, International
Rated Cap: 86 screaming Monsters
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EastCoastCB
They're chintzy as hell, they're horrible for heat and cold, and they leak horribly.
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Is there a rv vent that size out there? Maybe I'll find a marine Hatch. I was hoping to go through this hole to get on the roof.
In stopped rush hour I was planning on stepping up there so i could look down on every one and give them hand singles.
Question can you walk on the roof with out denting it?
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10-03-2016, 07:18 PM
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#16
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Skoolie
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Sarasota, Florida
Posts: 171
Year: 1995
Coachwork: International
Chassis: Carpenter
Engine: d466 mechanical
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Not a vent that I've been able to find that size. I think the common hatch size is 24x24.
Do you have Instagram?
There's an account called: biglarrybus
Story short, large roof raise, a gas strut roof vent, and stairs to a crazy rooftop deck.
Give him a check, he's pretty cool and closest I've seen to the quality and what you'd want to do
__________________
Nowhere Fast - Sarasota, Florida
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10-03-2016, 07:20 PM
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#17
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Geo Jeff
Is there a rv vent that size out there? Maybe I'll find a marine Hatch. I was hoping to go through this hole to get on the roof.
In stopped rush hour I was planning on stepping up there so i could look down on every one and give them hand singles.
Question can you walk on the roof with out denting it?
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There are similar sized roof hatches available for rv's and buses, but as far as I know they're not a direct fit and would still need a panel to fit properly.
I've found em in 22x22 and 26x26.
The ones that come on our buses are crapola, though.
You can walk on the roof, but yo'll wanna stay on the ribs. I've seen several buses with two rows of dents goin down the roof from folks walking on em.
How much you weigh can be a factor, too.
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10-03-2016, 07:20 PM
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#18
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Skoolie
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Sarasota, Florida
Posts: 171
Year: 1995
Coachwork: International
Chassis: Carpenter
Engine: d466 mechanical
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And you can walk on your roof gingerly, when I'm up there cleaning the panels I step where there's visible rivets on the ribs.
__________________
Nowhere Fast - Sarasota, Florida
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10-03-2016, 07:27 PM
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#19
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Darrington, Wa.
Posts: 304
Year: 1994
Coachwork: Genesis/Am-Tran Tall Roof
Chassis: International, 643 transmission
Engine: DT 466ci 250hp, International
Rated Cap: 86 screaming Monsters
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NowhereFast
And you can walk on your roof gingerly, when I'm up there cleaning the panels I step where there's visible rivets on the ribs.
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So if a guy was to put a rack on the roof and go through this vent you would want it to be right next to the hatch. I'm off to have crazy charlies roof rack?
Is a roof platform to much if I don't have a band? You just cant hide them with a oval roof. This is either what all bus's should look like aspire not to be?
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10-06-2016, 10:08 PM
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#20
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Skoolie
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Miami
Posts: 172
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: MVP
Engine: CAT 3116
Rated Cap: 84
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I replaced both my hatches with 14ga galvanized steel. I cut it so that it overlapped by two inches, ran butyl tape around it, and then fastened it with self tapping screws every 3 inches. No leaks so far!
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