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07-07-2019, 03:00 PM
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#1
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Saskatoon, Canada
Posts: 26
Year: 2003
Engine: 7.3 Liter
Rated Cap: 30 passenger
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Body filler in light holes
I've removed all the lights around the top. I closed most of the holes on the inside with fibreglass. One thing I haven't seen anyone do is close them on the outside with body filler. Is this a viable procedure? Seems simple and effective enough to me.
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07-07-2019, 03:15 PM
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#2
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: E Central Tejas
Posts: 2,094
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: IH 3800, 8 window
Engine: T444E w/ Spicer 5-speed MT
Rated Cap: I prefer broad-brims hats
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By, "all the top lights," I hope that you mean the two pairs fore and aft, not the marker lights on the sides.
Here in the US, those side lights are required to be functional, at least they are here in Texas...
__________________
Those who say that it cannot be done should not interrupt the people doing it.
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07-07-2019, 03:23 PM
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#3
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Saskatoon, Canada
Posts: 26
Year: 2003
Engine: 7.3 Liter
Rated Cap: 30 passenger
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Left the marker lights. Removed flashers and strobe on top.
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07-07-2019, 03:31 PM
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#4
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: E Central Tejas
Posts: 2,094
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: IH 3800, 8 window
Engine: T444E w/ Spicer 5-speed MT
Rated Cap: I prefer broad-brims hats
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Cool beans! [emoji106]
Would have liked to have left the strobe, but it's incontrovertible incontinence was intolerable...
So I cut a considerably larger hole where it was to mount the A/C!
__________________
Those who say that it cannot be done should not interrupt the people doing it.
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07-07-2019, 04:07 PM
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#5
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 1,349
Year: 1990
Coachwork: Thomas 4 window w/lift
Chassis: G30~Chevy cutaway
Engine: 5.7/350 Chevy Vortec
Rated Cap: Just me and my "stuff"?
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If you can't weld those holes closed, Bondo/polyester body filler will work.
I, personally, would fill any holes bigger than 3" with a metal patch first then cover over w/Bondo/body filler...
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07-07-2019, 04:11 PM
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#6
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Saskatoon, Canada
Posts: 26
Year: 2003
Engine: 7.3 Liter
Rated Cap: 30 passenger
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Thanks much
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07-07-2019, 04:19 PM
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#7
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: E Central Tejas
Posts: 2,094
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: IH 3800, 8 window
Engine: T444E w/ Spicer 5-speed MT
Rated Cap: I prefer broad-brims hats
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Quote:
Originally Posted by peteg59
...
I, personally, would fill any holes bigger than 3" with a metal patch first then cover over w/Bondo/body filler...
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^
Unless you're a fan of sloppy-droopy oversized holes.
__________________
Those who say that it cannot be done should not interrupt the people doing it.
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07-07-2019, 04:24 PM
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#8
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Saskatoon, Canada
Posts: 26
Year: 2003
Engine: 7.3 Liter
Rated Cap: 30 passenger
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Nothing is bigger than an inch
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07-07-2019, 04:31 PM
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#9
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 1,349
Year: 1990
Coachwork: Thomas 4 window w/lift
Chassis: G30~Chevy cutaway
Engine: 5.7/350 Chevy Vortec
Rated Cap: Just me and my "stuff"?
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Filler up!
Proper preparation of the metal surrounding the hole(s), is key to having good adhesion over the patched area.
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07-07-2019, 04:40 PM
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#10
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: E Central Tejas
Posts: 2,094
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: IH 3800, 8 window
Engine: T444E w/ Spicer 5-speed MT
Rated Cap: I prefer broad-brims hats
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Bare, clean metal is key for successful closure!
Tho I'd recommend NOT inserting the fuel pump's nozzle into said hole, unless you are particularly keen on the subtle bouquet of aliphatic compounds wafting about your living space...
__________________
Those who say that it cannot be done should not interrupt the people doing it.
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07-07-2019, 06:49 PM
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#11
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 6,947
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: CE 300
Engine: DT466e
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bremill
I've removed all the lights around the top. I closed most of the holes on the inside with fibreglass. One thing I haven't seen anyone do is close them on the outside with body filler. Is this a viable procedure? Seems simple and effective enough to me.
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Use a Bondo self-adhesive patch over the hole and Bondo Glass fiberglass-reinforced filler (instead of the normal stuff). If your holes are 1" like you say, this should be sufficient to seal them over. The flashers on my bus had 5" openings which Bondo would probably not work very well for (my bus came with a few large Bondo repairs of rust holes a few inches in diameter and they are bubbly and nasty).
A more long-term fix would be sheet metal patches welded or riveted over the holes.
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07-07-2019, 11:03 PM
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#12
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jan 2019
Posts: 374
Year: 2003
Chassis: Chevy cut-away 6-window shortie
Engine: 6.0L Gasser
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On mine, the holes were 4-5" so I riveted sheet metal on the inside, and then used fiberglass to fill in the hole on the outside.
On the front, the whole front is fiberglass, so I cleaned up to the existing fiberglass, ran packing tape from the inside, and fiberglassed in to match what was there already.
Chris
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07-07-2019, 11:18 PM
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#13
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 6,947
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: CE 300
Engine: DT466e
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
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Quote:
Originally Posted by farok
On mine, the holes were 4-5" so I riveted sheet metal on the inside, and then used fiberglass to fill in the hole on the outside.
Chris
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Didn't this leave a bunch of rivets exposed on the outside? Or do you have a double skin of some sort?
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07-08-2019, 06:25 AM
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#14
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jan 2019
Posts: 374
Year: 2003
Chassis: Chevy cut-away 6-window shortie
Engine: 6.0L Gasser
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Quote:
Originally Posted by musigenesis
Didn't this leave a bunch of rivets exposed on the outside? Or do you have a double skin of some sort?
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Yes - 8 rivets. On the back I wasn't as concerned with looks. I suppose I could have JB-Welded the sheet on instead for a cleaner look, but the rear corner got bashed at one point in the bus' life, so I didn't care enough.
Chris
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07-08-2019, 08:22 AM
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#15
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 6,947
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: CE 300
Engine: DT466e
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
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I covered my flasher holes with these 7" diameter 1/8" steel disks that I got on eBay for $4 each:
After putting them up it occurred to me that since the 1/4" rivets I used were $0.50 each, it was doubling the cost of each patch.
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07-08-2019, 08:39 AM
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#16
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: E Central Tejas
Posts: 2,094
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: IH 3800, 8 window
Engine: T444E w/ Spicer 5-speed MT
Rated Cap: I prefer broad-brims hats
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8 rivets is kinda over-kill...
Looks really good, tho! [emoji106]
__________________
Those who say that it cannot be done should not interrupt the people doing it.
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07-08-2019, 08:44 AM
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#17
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,715
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by musigenesis
I covered my flasher holes with these 7" diameter 1/8" steel disks that I got on eBay for $4 each:
Attachment 35390
After putting them up it occurred to me that since the 1/4" rivets I used were $0.50 each, it was doubling the cost of each patch.
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Looks real nice!
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07-08-2019, 10:39 AM
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#18
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 6,947
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: CE 300
Engine: DT466e
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HazMatt
8 rivets is kinda over-kill...
Looks really good, tho! [emoji106]
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Thanks. I talked myself out of doing 12, actually. The problem was that I mangled the hell out of those openings getting the flashers off because the attaching screws were rusted tight, and they were already kind of bent up from a past-life dent in the rear. I wanted a thick piece of metal and many rivets to ensure a tight seal.
It made me kinda sad to paint these - I really liked the steampunk look with the black metal and shiny rivets.
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07-08-2019, 10:58 AM
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#19
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: E Central Tejas
Posts: 2,094
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: IH 3800, 8 window
Engine: T444E w/ Spicer 5-speed MT
Rated Cap: I prefer broad-brims hats
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Too true, that's a cool look.
What about coming back to it with an artist's paint brush & silver paint?
__________________
Those who say that it cannot be done should not interrupt the people doing it.
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07-08-2019, 11:14 AM
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#20
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 6,947
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: CE 300
Engine: DT466e
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HazMatt
Too true, that's a cool look.
What about coming back to it with an artist's paint brush & silver paint?
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I'm thinking about it, but I know that if I give in to the temptation there, I'll probably end up hand-painting each rivet and screw on the outside of my bus. Which seems excessive.
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