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Old 07-02-2024, 09:28 AM   #1
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Building Interior Walls Vibrations & Rattles

I'm building out my interior. I want to avoid any rattling of the insides of the walls. I'm looking for any tips from people who have seen this and what I might need to avoid.

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Old 07-02-2024, 10:41 AM   #2
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Screws and glue. I built my walls out of 3/4 plywood. What sort of framing do you have planned?
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Old 07-02-2024, 10:46 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fo4imtippin View Post
Screws and glue. I built my walls out of 3/4 plywood. What sort of framing do you have planned?
That's what I have my walls cut out of as well. I've cut the walls. Now I have to tie it all together.
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Old 07-02-2024, 10:59 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by heimlich View Post
That's what I have my walls cut out of as well. I've cut the walls. Now I have to tie it all together.

I pocket holed into my ceiling and floor and any gaps will be filled with caulk. I went crazy and did a screw every 2 inches. Where I could, I glued and face screwed things to prevent any squeaks. A tight joint is one that won't squeek.
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Old 07-02-2024, 11:48 AM   #5
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I've not put the ceiling in yet. I've cut the plywood panels to sit directly next to the metal beams in the roof. I've attached the plywood to the metal beams with self tapping screws. I thought I would put some caulk in between the beam and the plywood to prevent squeaking. Then I attached 2x2 and 2x4 to the wall drilling into the metal to attach. I attach a 2x4 to the plywood and then screw that into the 2x4 on the wall.
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Old 07-03-2024, 02:18 AM   #6
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Glued, Screwed, Tied, Strapped & Clamped Securely

Quote:
Originally Posted by heimlich View Post
I've not put the ceiling in yet. I've cut the plywood panels to sit directly next to the metal beams in the roof. I've attached the plywood to the metal beams with self tapping screws. I thought I would put some caulk in between the beam and the plywood to prevent squeaking. Then I attached 2x2 and 2x4 to the wall drilling into the metal to attach. I attach a 2x4 to the plywood and then screw that into the 2x4 on the wall.
---------------------
The wall below holds switches, receptacles, smoke/CO detector and a recessed panel, all on one side of a bath doorway. Then the shower plumbing, switches & receptacles inside the wall on the other side of the doorway. Ergo, hollow 2x4 wall loaded with possible rattles. What ta do?!🫣


Before building any walls, I secured two-by-threes lengthwise, to the ribs.


For this I used Wood to Metal framing screws
#12 x 2-1/2" Reamer Tek Star/Torx T-30 Screw Head


For the sill plate on the floor, I used Dynatron and screws/washers. Screwed up from-under (the bus) not frum-unda....


I traced a wood-primered two-by-four and measured/drilled, seven 0.25" holes into floor. Using lights through the holes, I marked their location onto the underside, with painters tape. Remove the rust-maker-flakes, then metal-primered the holes.

Following my pencil & sharpie marks, I applied a heavy bead of Dynatron550. Using a steel blank, spread the bead evenly, between the lines & filled the floor creases.


Using a 2x4, cut to fit tight, I wedged the sill plate to the floor to ensure tight compression.


Between securing each screw, I climbed out from under the bus to adjust the brace, to be aligned with the next screw/hole.

1.5" Simpson SD framing screws & washers through predrilled and primered hole. (No rust please)


I attached my framed wall to the sill plate using Simpson framing screws.


On the ceiling I attached a second layer, a 2x4 plumbed above the sill plate, attached using Simpson SD 2.5" connector screws









No Rattles means NO Movement, ie Secured, Strapped, Tight

Use tie-wire


Use cable ties


Use clamps & straps


Plastic Bushings


Don't let anything move. Nothing should move inside of sitebuilt construction walls. Electrical conduit and wire, gas and water plumbing, ought to be tightly secured at close intervals. Slamming internal doors or turning on a faucet will cause rattles, only in shoddy construction. Though, it ought not ever happen.

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Old 07-03-2024, 09:33 AM   #7
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DeMac,

As always you do really good work.

I've done the framing for my walls. I held 2x4's to he walls using similar screws like you have.

I like your idea of screwing from underneath to attach the boards to the floors. I'll have to do mine that way.
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Old 07-06-2024, 08:13 PM   #8
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DeMac is doing it correctly for sure.
I used a round residential (20 gal) water heater in my truck conversion. You would not believe what I had to build to make sure it stayed where I put it.
It included a wood framed box and (4) 3/8th all thread rods 3 feet long to make sure it stayed together and bolted it to the aluminum floor.
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Old 07-07-2024, 09:59 AM   #9
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Hi DeMac,
You are obviously a perfectionist, I have travel in truck campers, motor homes and converted vans. Everything moves. I also live in a mobile home. Things move just because: forces of nature,, heat vs. cooling, Noise is inevitable. The most annoying rattle/bang is Vent fans. Either bathroom vents or exhaust fans over the stove area. Good luck in your adventure! Nailtechie
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Old 07-07-2024, 12:10 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by nailtechie View Post
Hi DeMac,
You are obviously a perfectionist, I have travel in truck campers, motor homes and converted vans. Everything moves. I also live in a mobile home. Things move just because: forces of nature,, heat vs. cooling, Noise is inevitable. The most annoying rattle/bang is Vent fans. Either bathroom vents or exhaust fans over the stove area. Good luck in your adventure! Nailtechie
---------------

Thank you, all..

Not all skoolies or homes are created equally. Mobile homes probably do vibrate quite easily. Slam a door or just walk briskly.... thin, hollow everything. I live in a custom built, cbs block home with real brick overlay outside of the block & an airspace in-between. Walls are over a foot thick, copper plumbing throughout, 160mph windows, sprayfoam... Cat 5 hurricane outside and nothing rattles inside. Sumos could wrestle next to my bed, I wouldnt know.

Mobile homes are not built to the same standard. Mechanicals are not even attached to the 1-1/2" studs, so the romex & pex floppinh around in hollow cavities. Sorry about your exhaust fans. Try Pioneer brand exaust fans, they're pricey but the chassis & fan are very quiet. Take your time installing. Secure internal wiring away from the fan blades. Use additional screws & bracing and/or spray foam the exterior chassis to muffle the hum. Sealed vent pipe to the eves.

We each choose the quality of our own build. Often due to our own ignorance, as we simply dont know that which we dont know. I mearly try to educate myself with all of the ways to complete a task. From which, I choose "my way", usually in accordance with a national standard or uniform code. Most of my skoolie work barely conforms to the minimum HUD standard for housing, yet exceeds the RVIA code requirements.

Manufactured RVs must comply with several national code requirements. How can we build a better RV if we cant even conform to their low standards or pass thier basic inspections? My work doesn't have to be perfect, but sometimes perfect will have to do.
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Old 07-07-2024, 10:53 PM   #11
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I used clear silicone between the joints no squeaking anywhere.
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Old 07-09-2024, 08:27 PM   #12
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DeMac,
Unfortunately you put wood against metal. Because the indoor temperature will often be different than the outdoor temperature and metal is vapor impermeable you will get condensation on it which will wet the wood. This will eventually lead to mold. I have major concerns about mold and air quality in this build.
A better way to do this would be to insulate with spray foam or polyiso against the metal roof, then attach the wood plates. Same problem on the floor. You could have used a sill sealer or rubber strip down there beneath your bottom plates at least.


Are you planning to spray foam underneath the bus?
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Old 07-09-2024, 09:53 PM   #13
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Are you planning to spray foam underneath the bus?


I've considered this. Do you know anyone who's done it?
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