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Old 01-10-2020, 06:17 PM   #21
Bus Crazy
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Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Virginia
Posts: 2,024
Year: 1971
Coachwork: Wayne
Chassis: International Loadstar 1700
Engine: 345 international V-8
I am not sure of your timing , but if you do use ceder or any wood that is not kiln dried then stack it in the bus with stickers between each course, for as long as you can to get it stabilized.

When we built our house we took the logs to the sawmill to cut into plank flooring. Let it dry in an open shed stickered for over a year. Then laid the floor tight, very tight. Well we now have a good bit of a gap in the planks. we really should have had the boards in the house for a month or more then put them down. That final drying, and acclimation is important for gap free woodwork. To help prevent splits on the ends paint the ends while drying.

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Old 01-11-2020, 11:05 AM   #22
Bus Nut
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Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: New Orleans
Posts: 339
Year: 2001
Coachwork: Thomas
Engine: 3126b 210hp
Rated Cap: 48
You will not like cedar fence boards on your floor. I owned a fence business for 25 years. I have a couple suggestions. Every fence company has a bad board pile. They have already been reimbursed by the mill, and the mill doesn’t want them back. We used to sell them for “ buck a board”. There are always 7 bds on the bottom of a bundle, scraped up on one side by forklifts. This is not good for a fence but perfect for you. Also many times these boards have been sitting around long enf to be dry. I have ship lapped fence boards with a table saw and lined closets and bathrooms with them. Looks good, smells good.

Maybe make yourself a cedar welcome mat for your house and walk over it for a few weeks. I think you will see what I mean abbot not being suitable for flooring.
I hope this helps, Dave
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Old 01-15-2020, 03:20 PM   #23
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 39
Floor and ceiling is a lot of cedar. Personally, I can't stand the smell of cedar. Seems that much of it would be off putting for anyone.
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