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03-07-2018, 11:34 AM
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#1
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Savannah, GA
Posts: 45
Year: 1997
Coachwork: International
Chassis: 3000
Engine: 7.6 L / DT466
Rated Cap: 72 Pass.
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Ceiling material?
Hey everyone!
I’m curious what you guys use. Either tongue and grove 5/16” pine boards or the thin cheap bead board for your ceiling?
Thanks!!
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03-07-2018, 12:06 PM
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#2
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Skoolie
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Brunswick, GA
Posts: 150
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: TC2000
Engine: 5.9 Cummins
Rated Cap: 84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheRoanBus
Hey everyone!
I’m curious what you guys use. Either tongue and grove 5/16” pine boards or the thin cheap bead board for your ceiling?
Thanks!!
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I'm down in Brunswick - and am concerned about preventing mold/mildew since our area gets extreme heat/humidity levels. I am pretty certain I'm going with FRP panels of some flavor both in ceilings and walls.
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03-07-2018, 12:23 PM
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#3
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,482
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
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My plan is a path down the center of the roof with luan about 2.5' wide and then t&g from there down to the floor. I hadn't seen 5/16" t&g, sounds easier to wrk with, though it doesn't need to bend.
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03-09-2018, 03:08 PM
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#4
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Skoolie
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: League City, Texas
Posts: 221
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o1marc
My plan is a path down the center of the roof with luan about 2.5' wide and then t&g from there down to the floor. I hadn't seen 5/16" t&g, sounds easier to wrk with, though it doesn't need to bend.
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1/4" or 5/16", not sure exactly how thick, but that is what Home Depot is selling these days. I was planning on going with the T&G for the ceiling, and cabinet doors / drawer fronts, and 1/4" cabinet grade ply for the walls...
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03-12-2018, 07:00 PM
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#5
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Skoolie
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Miami
Posts: 172
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: MVP
Engine: CAT 3116
Rated Cap: 84
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I used 1/4" t&g pine screwed directly to the ceiling ribs. I'm 6'4" and ceiling height is important, so there was no room (short of a roof raise) for anything thicker! I got it a Lowes, the planks are 8' long and about 4" wide, and they are made by a company called Empire. The pine that I used was on closeout and discontinued, so I bought every piece they had. I think you can still get get it in cedar, but it is more $.
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03-12-2018, 08:11 PM
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#6
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: hills of sw virginia
Posts: 889
Year: 1996
Chassis: thomas
Engine: 8.3 cummins
Rated Cap: 11 window
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3/4 x 5 1/2 t&g 16 g finish nailed
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03-12-2018, 08:54 PM
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#7
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,482
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Piersg
I used 1/4" t&g pine screwed directly to the ceiling ribs. I'm 6'4" and ceiling height is important, so there was no room (short of a roof raise) for anything thicker! I got it a Lowes, the planks are 8' long and about 4" wide, and they are made by a company called Empire. The pine that I used was on closeout and discontinued, so I bought every piece they had. I think you can still get get it in cedar, but it is more $.
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Can you post a pic showing the screw attachment? I want to attach directly to the ribs also, but don't want a million pieces of hardware showing.
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03-12-2018, 10:07 PM
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#8
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Skoolie
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Miami
Posts: 172
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: MVP
Engine: CAT 3116
Rated Cap: 84
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This is a close up of the ceiling looking straight up. The screws are all countersunk, and unless you are looking straight up, they are not noticeable:
You can see the screws in the foreground in this shot, but they are not noticeable beyond that:
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03-12-2018, 10:36 PM
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#9
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,482
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
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I was going to ask if you used self tappers, but see you predrilled and countersunk, correct.
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03-12-2018, 10:56 PM
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#10
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: N.C.
Posts: 1,136
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Bluebird
Engine: DT466E
Rated Cap: 34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Piersg
This is a close up of the ceiling looking straight up. The screws are all countersunk, and unless you are looking straight up, they are not noticeable:
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Nicely done.
It looks like you screwed directly into the ribs.......do you ever have any condensation on the screw heads?
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03-13-2018, 08:44 PM
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#11
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Skoolie
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Miami
Posts: 172
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: MVP
Engine: CAT 3116
Rated Cap: 84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o1marc
I was going to ask if you used self tappers, but see you predrilled and countersunk, correct.
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Yes, I drilled, countersunk, and used self tappers.
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03-13-2018, 08:46 PM
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#12
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Skoolie
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Miami
Posts: 172
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: MVP
Engine: CAT 3116
Rated Cap: 84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by plfking
Nicely done.
It looks like you screwed directly into the ribs.......do you ever have any condensation on the screw heads?
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Not so far.I live in S Florida, so the swings in temperature aren't really bad. It just goes from hot and humid to hotter and humid!
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