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Old 12-07-2017, 11:08 PM   #21
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Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Willamina, Oregon
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Coachwork: 97 Bluebird TC1000 5.9
I had to look up where goldbar was. I thought you'd be over on the beach.

I'm dealing with the same 5.9 you are. It does seem small for this size of a vehicle. I'm pretty sure this wood I've used weighs less than the steel panels I took out, but I didn't keep track. I did weigh this bus after removing the interior panels and it seemed to be about 1,300 lbs less. I just wanted a durable interior. I don't carry a lot of weight otherwise, like an interior.

Hey, keep everything. As soon as you throw something out, you end up needing it.

No, the perforated panels wouldn't be good for window replacement. They would be good for a window cover. Any other uses are good too. You'll never get cheaper sheet metal to play with.

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Old 12-09-2017, 05:27 PM   #22
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Location: home, washington
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Year: 2005
Coachwork: blue bird
Chassis: handy
Engine: e450 6.0
the title "condensation" seems to indicate you aren't asking about leak problems...
i live in the pacific northwest, so condensation is a real issue most of the year...my solution:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/DampRid-...G50T/100391308

works great for me.
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Old 12-09-2017, 06:54 PM   #23
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I have some of that inside my gun safe, but inside a bus? Even the one inside my safe fills with water quickly.
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Old 12-11-2017, 01:03 PM   #24
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Location: Gold Bar, WA
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Year: 1991
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Chassis: TC 2000
Engine: 5.9 L Cummins Turbo
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Well convinced ceiling has to go as the only cure for PNW condensation. Will buy an air chisel and I counted and only 400 rivets on my ceiling and one row of screws. I have been nudged screaming and kicking all the way to doing the bus job right, not my intention when I bought the bus as I thought redoing the floor would be enough. Hoping a combination of tongue and groove on the sides and fiberglass/plastic sheets in center will help with headspace, though when final flooring is put in not sure anyone over 5'8" will ever be able to walk in my bus, luckily I am shorter than that.
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Old 12-11-2017, 01:43 PM   #25
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I would have been satisfied with the OEM inside panels too, but the water issues are actually kind of impressive in a negative way this time of year.
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Old 12-11-2017, 01:50 PM   #26
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Year: 2000
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Another one converted.

Your air chisel will probably have its tip formed in a V shape so that it comes to a point in the middle of its thickness. That shape doesn't work well for shearing rivets. Re-grind it so it's flat on one side and tapered on the other (the same profile as a wood chisel).

Use a small punch to drive the mandrel back into the middle of the rivet before trying to shear the head. This significantly reduces the amount of metal you have to shear. Some of the rivets might turn out to be aluminum with a steel mandrel; these will shear like butter when the mandrels are pushed back first.
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Old 12-11-2017, 04:41 PM   #27
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Thanks FamilyWagon - will regrind air chisel or see if they sell one like that to start with. I will try punching them and see what luck I have. On my lower walls the horizontal rivets were easy to drill out the vertical ones had the steel center and I ended up grinding an x and bashing away at them. I fear the roof rivets are of the tougher type.
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Old 12-11-2017, 07:44 PM   #28
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Why do you not add 1" insulation to the top of the roof,, insulation and barrier in one, easy to do, cheap, no head room loss. no strength loss

Later J
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Old 12-12-2017, 05:01 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by druidwood View Post
Thanks FamilyWagon - will regrind air chisel or see if they sell one like that to start with. I will try punching them and see what luck I have. On my lower walls the horizontal rivets were easy to drill out the vertical ones had the steel center and I ended up grinding an x and bashing away at them. I fear the roof rivets are of the tougher type.
Just punch out the mandrels and shear off the rivet with the chisel.
You'll kick yourself for drilling and grinding!
You're doing the right thing!
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