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Old 03-06-2019, 10:14 PM   #41
Almost There
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Posts: 74
I cut mine all the way to the front
No seam.
Then I ordered new windshields.
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Old 03-06-2019, 10:58 PM   #42
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Olathe, Kansas
Posts: 191
Year: 1990
Coachwork: Crown
Chassis: Supercoach
Engine: 6-71TA
Rated Cap: 90
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rberriz View Post
I cut mine all the way to the front
No seam.
Then I ordered new windshields.
Not sure what you mean by no seam? Do you mean no transition?
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Old 03-06-2019, 10:59 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by GWRider View Post
Not sure what you mean by no seam? Do you mean no transition?


Exactly no transition.
You can see mine on my build page. Or my IG @thebbbus
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Old 03-06-2019, 11:03 PM   #44
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Location: Olathe, Kansas
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Year: 1990
Coachwork: Crown
Chassis: Supercoach
Engine: 6-71TA
Rated Cap: 90
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Originally Posted by Rberriz View Post
Exactly no transition.
You can see mine on my build page. Or my IG @thebbbus
Yeah, i just saw your other BB post
Btw, how did you handle the drywall gap?
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Old 03-06-2019, 11:27 PM   #45
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Originally Posted by GWRider View Post
Yeah, i just saw your other BB post
Btw, how did you handle the drywall gap?


Since I removed all the windows and donít need a path for water, Iím sealing it from the inside and just spray foaming it.
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Old 03-07-2019, 07:38 AM   #46
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Olathe, Kansas
Posts: 191
Year: 1990
Coachwork: Crown
Chassis: Supercoach
Engine: 6-71TA
Rated Cap: 90
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Originally Posted by Rberriz View Post
Since I removed all the windows and donít need a path for water, Iím sealing it from the inside and just spray foaming it.

I am also not using the original windows and have removed them. How are you sealing it from the inside other than using spray foam? Are you adding any metal material?

I have heard others just using spray foam but I do not want to just rely on foam to seal a gap that large.
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Old 03-08-2019, 12:43 PM   #47
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Year: 1988
Coachwork: Crown / Pusher
Engine: 8.3 Cummins
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Originally Posted by GWRider View Post
Do you have any more pics of your raise? Also, how did you handle the gap that runs along each side of the Bus which is for the window dry wall construction?
Sorry I've been real busy & havn't been on much, far as the gap goes I slide sheetmetal in & riveted then sprayed Flexseal inside at the seam. Is there any thing specific your wanting to see far as more pic goes
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Old 03-09-2019, 12:50 PM   #48
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Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Olathe, Kansas
Posts: 191
Year: 1990
Coachwork: Crown
Chassis: Supercoach
Engine: 6-71TA
Rated Cap: 90
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stu & Filo. T View Post
Sorry I've been real busy & havn't been on much, far as the gap goes I slide sheetmetal in & riveted then sprayed Flexseal inside at the seam. Is there any thing specific your wanting to see far as more pic goes
No problem, thanks for the pics. The two things I am not sure about is how I want to handle the drywall gap and the roof raise transition.

For the drywall gap, I considered removing and replacing the entire side panels but that is a lot more work and also reduces strength and rigidity. I will likely do something similar as you and use riveted sheet metal with some type of sealant. If you have more pics of what you did on yours would be great.

For the roof raise, I looked at the option of doing a transition then thought raising the whole top might work better. After looking at a couple of full top raises, I realized that the ones I looked at were older Crowns with windshields that were shorter in height or were different with respect to the side windows. After looking at your Crown which is only 2 years older than mine, I got a better perspective of what mine would like with a roof transition and the approx. location for the cuts. Any more pics of the transition from inside and outside would help. Again Thanks!
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Old 09-02-2019, 12:47 PM   #49
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Olathe, Kansas
Posts: 191
Year: 1990
Coachwork: Crown
Chassis: Supercoach
Engine: 6-71TA
Rated Cap: 90
Been a while since I have made progress on my Crown (various reasons...life).
Raised the roof 16" yesterday (not welded in place yet). There are only a few that I know of who have done this to a Crown.
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Old 09-02-2019, 02:02 PM   #50
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Join Date: Nov 2017
Posts: 18
Looking good. Nice to have a shop to do the work in too. Hope the shop door is tall enough to get out! Lol. My Crown (formerly built for Hewlett-Packard in ‘66) has a factory 7ft ceiling height. Keep up the good work! Also realized were only 5 hours apart (in Nebraska); awesome to see another midwestern Crown
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Old 09-02-2019, 11:30 PM   #51
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Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Olathe, Kansas
Posts: 191
Year: 1990
Coachwork: Crown
Chassis: Supercoach
Engine: 6-71TA
Rated Cap: 90
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Originally Posted by randallg30 View Post
Looking good. Nice to have a shop to do the work in too. Hope the shop door is tall enough to get out! Lol. My Crown (formerly built for Hewlett-Packard in Ď66) has a factory 7ft ceiling height. Keep up the good work! Also realized were only 5 hours apart (in Nebraska); awesome to see another midwestern Crown

Thanks. The shop door is 13.5 ft. I think the Crown was just around 10 ft. before the raise, so now around 11.5 ft. tall. If mine was 7ft. like yours, I would not have raised it. However, I am around 6'1 and was barely able to walk straight before the raise. My son is a bit taller, so the height would not be sufficient with insulation in both floor and ceiling. Glad there are other Crowns in the area. I know of one other in Missouri.
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Old 03-19-2020, 01:41 AM   #52
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Join Date: Feb 2020
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Delete, delete, delete
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Old 03-19-2020, 01:48 AM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bluespoet View Post
the worst thing you can do is say **** it and do it without plumb bobs, without bracing and the outer shell moves and then you really have a problem, if you run out of money during the surgery, best to wait till you have the money, plan on doing it right or it will go wrong.
I misread your post and tried to retract it but this forum wonít allow it, sorry
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