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02-18-2019, 02:19 PM
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#1
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Skoolie
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Olathe, Kansas
Posts: 220
Year: 1990
Coachwork: Crown
Chassis: Supercoach
Engine: 6-71TA
Rated Cap: 90
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Crown Roof Raise Transition
I am thinking of doing the following for the Crown roof raise transition. Anyone see an issue or is there a better way? Attached are two pics. One of the inside around the emergency exit and where I am considering making the cuts and the second is outside to show the emergency exit for reference.
1. Cut the top sheet along the right side of the hat channel seen on the left side of the pic.
2. Remove the rivets on the hat channel seen on the right side of the pic
3. Cut the top sheet along the left side of the hat channel that the rivets were removed from (step 2).
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02-18-2019, 02:24 PM
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#2
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Skoolie
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Lake Barkley
Posts: 127
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Prevost
Chassis: H3-45
Engine: Detroit DDEC III
Rated Cap: A LOT
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I dunno man!
The lines on that bus are SOOOOOO SWEET that I would hate to mess them up by raising the roof. Couldn't you find a newer bus that had lines that were a lot more square? This bus is just too smooth and cool looking to risk it... I think.
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02-18-2019, 02:35 PM
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#3
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Eastern WA
Posts: 6,401
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: All American RE (A3RE)
Engine: Cummins ISC (8.3)
Rated Cap: 72
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There is at least one member here that has successfully raised the roof of a Crown while maintaining the awesome looks.
It really was a work of art.
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02-18-2019, 02:42 PM
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#4
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Skoolie
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Olathe, Kansas
Posts: 220
Year: 1990
Coachwork: Crown
Chassis: Supercoach
Engine: 6-71TA
Rated Cap: 90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WoodenYouKnowIt
I dunno man!
The lines on that bus are SOOOOOO SWEET that I would hate to mess them up by raising the roof. Couldn't you find a newer bus that had lines that were a lot more square? This bus is just too smooth and cool looking to risk it... I think.
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We preferred the look of the Crown over a BB or Thomas and are built like a tank (90K psi steel tensile strength vs 45 or 50K of most competitors). Better to convert them then let get scrapped by CA. Besides, there are several people with private museums already.
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02-18-2019, 02:49 PM
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#5
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Skoolie
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Olathe, Kansas
Posts: 220
Year: 1990
Coachwork: Crown
Chassis: Supercoach
Engine: 6-71TA
Rated Cap: 90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PNW_Steve
There is at least one member here that has successfully raised the roof of a Crown while maintaining the awesome looks.
It really was a work of art.
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The one I saw that looked the most original was a one foot raise done by Boogiethecat on BCM. Although, I never saw it finished. Perhaps, we are talking about the same individual?
There is another that I like that was not raised. I attached a pic of this. My intention is to try and keep the bus looking original as much as possible.
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02-18-2019, 02:49 PM
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#6
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Eastern WA
Posts: 6,401
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: All American RE (A3RE)
Engine: Cummins ISC (8.3)
Rated Cap: 72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GWRider
We preferred the look of the Crown over a BB or Thomas and are built like a tank (90K psi steel tensile strength vs 45 or 50K of most competitors). Better to convert them then let get scrapped by CA. Besides, there are several people with private museums already.
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I do love my Bluebird but I have to agree.... The Crown's are the ultimate cool skoolie!
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02-18-2019, 04:44 PM
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#7
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Skoolie
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Lake Barkley
Posts: 127
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Prevost
Chassis: H3-45
Engine: Detroit DDEC III
Rated Cap: A LOT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GWRider
The one I saw that looked the most original was a one foot raise done by Boogiethecat on BCM.
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I went to the BCM forum and I couldn't find anything about Boogiethecat raising the roof. Bummer, I wanted to see that. But I can see from the guy's avatar that the roof is indeed higher than stock... and it looks good. I'd love to see how he did it.
Yeah, this bus is so cool looking that I'm scrapping the Prevost and heading to California to find my own Crown.
NOT! I'm keeping the Prevost. LOL But still, the Crown is a VERY COOL bus.
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02-18-2019, 05:16 PM
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#8
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Skoolie
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: lake elsinore ca
Posts: 105
Year: 1954
Coachwork: crown
Engine: 220 cummins turbo
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I believe my crown roof raise of 13" was successful. I cut cent of the windows and ad I believe 1" or 1 1/8 heave wall sq. tubing right inside the stamped steel bars going up to the roof.
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02-18-2019, 07:53 PM
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#9
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Skoolie
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 108
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In raising the roof, level the bus, then use a plumb bob in the front and in the rear to mark center on the floor. Build at T brace so that when in place the cut roof is in the right space, extra credit if you make it adjustable, but using blocks underneath will get you there. Take measurements of original ht. Cut the roof and have it rest on something, raise roof, in the process make sure your front and back centered plumb bobs hit mark on the floor, Then is a matter to frame you gap, center again the plumb bobs and attach.
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02-18-2019, 07:56 PM
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#10
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Skoolie
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 108
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the challenge is that things can shift and move, I would put in temp bracing in various places like the lower wall below the cut, so that it doesn't move, If you have made measurements you can tell, make braces as you go, use the plumb bob, solve problems as you go.
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02-18-2019, 07:58 PM
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#11
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Skoolie
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 108
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the worst thing you can do is say **** it and do it without plumb bobs, without bracing and the outer shell moves and then you really have a problem, if you run out of money during the surgery, best to wait till you have the money, plan on doing it right or it will go wrong.
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02-18-2019, 10:50 PM
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#13
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Skoolie
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Olathe, Kansas
Posts: 220
Year: 1990
Coachwork: Crown
Chassis: Supercoach
Engine: 6-71TA
Rated Cap: 90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 50 crown
I believe my crown roof raise of 13" was successful. I cut cent of the windows and ad I believe 1" or 1 1/8 heave wall sq. tubing right inside the stamped steel bars going up to the roof.
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Nice.
Also, I like how you made good use of conduit. I don't understand why so many people just route the wires and spray foam over them. What a mess if they ever need to service it.
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02-18-2019, 10:55 PM
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#14
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Skoolie
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Olathe, Kansas
Posts: 220
Year: 1990
Coachwork: Crown
Chassis: Supercoach
Engine: 6-71TA
Rated Cap: 90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bluespoet
In raising the roof, level the bus, then use a plumb bob in the front and in the rear to mark center on the floor. Build at T brace so that when in place the cut roof is in the right space, extra credit if you make it adjustable, but using blocks underneath will get you there. Take measurements of original ht. Cut the roof and have it rest on something, raise roof, in the process make sure your front and back centered plumb bobs hit mark on the floor, Then is a matter to frame you gap, center again the plumb bobs and attach.
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Yes, that is good advice and I planned on using the ole plumb bob and level the bus. I kind of like the way "The Bus life" did theirs but also looking at how "The Off Grid Schoolie" and "Transcend Existence" did theirs (although not Crowns).
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02-19-2019, 12:12 AM
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#15
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Skoolie
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Lake Barkley
Posts: 127
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Prevost
Chassis: H3-45
Engine: Detroit DDEC III
Rated Cap: A LOT
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Ok, I stand corrected! I didn't think that a roof raise would look good but I really like the looks of this bus.
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02-19-2019, 09:08 AM
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#16
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Skoolie
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: lake elsinore ca
Posts: 105
Year: 1954
Coachwork: crown
Engine: 220 cummins turbo
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I lost all the photos of doing the raise, however I did discover and want to pass on that the side of the bus have 2 angles to them. so if go to raise it the higher you go the more drastic the widths change. if you look at the linked photos
the pic with the drivers window showing has a weird transition at the drip rail. its all painted grey in the pic the angle changes at the bottom of the windows being the widest..
http://www.heartmagic.com/zzjunebus/DSC00006.JPG
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02-19-2019, 12:14 PM
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#17
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Skoolie
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 108
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someone is posting as me on this forum, I did not write this.
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02-19-2019, 12:20 PM
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#18
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,482
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bluespoet
someone is posting as me on this forum, I did not write this.
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This makes absolutely no sense. So did the anonymous person post that reply?
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02-19-2019, 12:22 PM
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#19
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Skoolie
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: lake elsinore ca
Posts: 105
Year: 1954
Coachwork: crown
Engine: 220 cummins turbo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o1marc
This makes absolutely no sense. So did the anonymous person post that reply?
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lmbo...who is on first?
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02-19-2019, 02:22 PM
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#20
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Skoolie
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Olathe, Kansas
Posts: 220
Year: 1990
Coachwork: Crown
Chassis: Supercoach
Engine: 6-71TA
Rated Cap: 90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 50 crown
I lost all the photos of doing the raise, however I did discover and want to pass on that the side of the bus have 2 angles to them. so if go to raise it the higher you go the more drastic the widths change. if you look at the linked photos
the pic with the drivers window showing has a weird transition at the drip rail. its all painted grey in the pic the angle changes at the bottom of the windows being the widest..
http://www.heartmagic.com/zzjunebus/DSC00006.JPG
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The link you referenced is a 1 foot raise according to what he (Boogiethecat) said. I don't know if that was approximate or exactly 12 inches? You mentioned yours is 13 inches. Is there a reason you did 13 and not 12? According to this guy the body rivets line up with a 1 foot raise making it look almost original.
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