Discouraged after time away from project, need advice!

[Btb27]

Hi all! I purchased a international 200CE back in early 2020, right before the pandemic hit 🤪 and worked that summer on demo, patching floors, putting in flooring, insulating, etc. Then I got pregnant, had a baby, and let my bus sit until now. All I would love is for it to be a roof over our heads to camp, maybe have a fridge, small solar package, water down the line. And more upgrades as time goes on

The problem is, it won't start. Summer of 2020 it was driven over 200 miles fine and now the parking break won't release and who knows what else has gone wrong with it because it sat over two winters now which I know is stupid. I'm at a loss of what to do now.

Not sure if I should sell it and eat the loss, put money into having a mechanic come out and look at it, or if the break problem is something that isn't fixable. I know I need new batteries too.

Any advice, recommendations for mechanics in Michigan, or someone to commiserate with is welcome!

[rossvtaylor]

Hi BTB,

Chin up. This is, most likely, easy. And the parking brake won't release until the engine's running...so not a separate issue.

If it ran when parked, but won't start now, there are 3 probable causes. 1) The batteries are low and/or 2) You cut or disconnected a starter safety interlock (if it won't crank at all) and/or 3) The fuel drained out of the lines and the fuel pump lost prime (if it cranks and there's no billowing white smoke from the exhaust).

So, tell us more. Does it crank but not start? Or does it not even crank? And what happens when you turn the key to on"? And finally, do you have a voltmeter to check the battery voltage?

[BarnYardCamp]

Is the bus gas or diesel? If it's gas, most likely the gas has "soured" and the entire fuel system will need to be flushed out. If it's diesel, diesel fuel is much more stable and will most likely be ok even after 2 years.
Brakes; are they hydraulic? If they are, some penetrating oil at strategic places on the parking brake cable my help...do NOT get oil on the brake shoes, pads, drums or rotors. If they are air brakes, you'll need to get it running to build up air pressure to release them.

Batteries, you can replace those for about $300...maybe that's all you need to get it running??? Maybe you can do that yourself? Make sure the cable ends are clean before installing the new batteries, make sure you reattach al wires/cables as they were. There has been more than one post about a bus not starting where a wire to the batteries was accidently left off. Also, put a charger on those new batteries before trying to start the bus...those batteries may have been on a shelf for months and will not be 100% charged, you may need to crank the engine a bit to start it....but don't crank continuously and burn the starter up, maybe 5 to 10 second burst with 15 -20 second rest between tries.

It will be hard to put a value on it if you have no idea what is wrong with it, so, I'd try to find a mechanic willing to come out and look at it.

While I was typing (hunt and peck style) RossTaylor responded...he, and many others are quite knowledgeable and may be able to guide you better than me...

[Btb27]

Originally Posted by rossvtaylor

Hi BTB,

Chin up. This is, most likely, easy. And the parking brake won't release until the engine's running...so not a separate issue.

If it ran when parked, but won't start now, there are 3 probable causes. 1) The batteries are low and/or 2) You cut or disconnected a starter safety interlock (if it won't crank at all) and/or 3) The fuel drained out of the lines and the fuel pump lost prime (if it cranks and there's no billowing white smoke from the exhaust).

So, tell us more. Does it crank but not start? Or does it not even crank? And what happens when you turn the key to on"? And finally, do you have a voltmeter to check the battery voltage?

Thank you❤ I should first clarify that the last time it did start was a few months ago but the parking brake wasn't releasing at that time either so I know I had a problem and now it won't start at all. Its has a wheelchair lift and from what I have read here in the past all the interlocking systems might be the reason it wasn't releasing? In which case I feel like I need to learn a lot more about the eltectrical stuff or go to a mechanic.

I haven't done anything electrical like cut or disconnected any lines! Just interior stuff really. I don't have a voltmeter but I can get one to check that out, but I think the batteries are just dead because when I turn the key to on it doesn't do anything

[DeMac]

You'll likely complete the prime & starting procedures yourself, along with our members' assistance. Lots of friendly, knowledgeable folks at skoolie.net. Often awaken the dead. Diesels, that is. Terrific stuff to practice before your journey begins.

The early CE200s were equipped with T444e (requires strong batteries), later versions offered the VT365.

Which engine is installed on your rig, BTB?

[Btb27]

Originally Posted by BarnYardCamp

Is the bus gas or diesel? If it's gas, most likely the gas has "soured" and the entire fuel system will need to be flushed out. If it's diesel, diesel fuel is much more stable and will most likely be ok even after 2 years.
Brakes; are they hydraulic? If they are, some penetrating oil at strategic places on the parking brake cable my help...do NOT get oil on the brake shoes, pads, drums or rotors. If they are air brakes, you'll need to get it running to build up air pressure to release them.

Batteries, you can replace those for about $300...maybe that's all you need to get it running??? Maybe you can do that yourself? Make sure the cable ends are clean before installing the new batteries, make sure you reattach al wires/cables as they were. There has been more than one post about a bus not starting where a wire to the batteries was accidently left off. Also, put a charger on those new batteries before trying to start the bus...those batteries may have been on a shelf for months and will not be 100% charged, you may need to crank the engine a bit to start it....but don't crank continuously and burn the starter up, maybe 5 to 10 second burst with 15 -20 second rest between tries.

It will be hard to put a value on it if you have no idea what is wrong with it, so, I'd try to find a mechanic willing to come out and look at it.

While I was typing (hunt and peck style) RossTaylor responded...he, and many others are quite knowledgeable and may be able to guide you better than me...

Thank you for your insight!! So it is a diesel so thats good news? And they are hydraulic brakes. I will definetly do what you reccomended and try new batteries that way. If that works I think looking into a mechanic to look at why the brake won't release would be helpful. I have seen some posts on completely removing the interlocking system but I would be worried I would mess something up if I tried that myself.

[Btb27]

Originally Posted by DeMac

You'll likely complete the prime & starting procedures yourself, along with our members' assistance. Lots of friendly, knowledgeable folks at skoolie.net. Often awaken the dead. Diesels, that is. Terrific stuff to practice before your journey begins.

The early CE200s were equipt with T444e (requires strong batteries), later versions offered the VT365.

Which engine is installed on your rig, BTB?

Thank you! I need the practice. I really don't want to abandon the whole thing. I just really focused so much of my research before starting the journey on all the conversion stuff and felt confident with that and not the electrical/mechanical which was obviously a mistake ��*♀️
I do know it is a vt365 engine though! It is a 2008.

[DeMac]

Originally Posted by Btb27

Thank you! I need the practice. I really don't want to abandon the whole thing. I just really focused so much of my research before starting the journey on all the conversion stuff and felt confident with that and not the electrical/mechanical which was obviously a mistake ��*♀️
I do know it is a vt365 engine though! It is a 2008.

-------------
Just more intimidating before you do it. You'll be more confident before you're halfway through.

Do you know your engine block's color?
blue or black.

[BamaBus]

Originally Posted by Btb27

...And they are hydraulic brakes. I have seen some posts on completely removing the interlocking system but I would be worried I would mess something up if I tried that myself.

After determining whether you have weak/bad batteries or if they need replacing, you will need to get the air tank up to pressure before the brakes release. I just purchased a bus with hydraulic brakes with the air parking. This bus needs to have the proper sequencing to release the brakes, First foot on the brakes, select D or R on the gear shift and then push the brake release. I have seen some youtube vids of sequences for various models. The bypass that was in some other threads is easy but may not be how your (and mine) brakes system is set up. The real culprit in those instances were cutting wires to the lift. If it comes to bypass, post a pic of your brakes reservoir area.

[cadillackid]

Originally Posted by DeMac

-------------
Just more intimidating before you do it. You'll be more confident before you're halfway through.

Do you know your engine block's color?
blue or black.

did those in that year have that Infamous WABCO controller for hydraulic brakes like the BE did?

[Btb27]

I appreciate the help so definitely feel more confident talking to people as I go versus just googling into oblivion haha thanks again!
I do not know that but I am going to look today and get started on switching the batteries.

[Btb27]

Originally Posted by BamaBus

After determining whether you have weak/bad batteries or if they need replacing, you will need to get the air tank up to pressure before the brakes release. I just purchased a bus with hydraulic brakes with the air parking. This bus needs to have the proper sequencing to release the brakes, First foot on the brakes, select D or R on the gear shift and then push the brake release. I have seen some youtube vids of sequences for various models. The bypass that was in some other threads is easy but may not be how your (and mine) brakes system is set up. The real culprit in those instances were cutting wires to the lift. If it comes to bypass, post a pic of your brakes reservoir area.

Mine had a sequence like that! When the brakes weren't releasing I thought maybe I got it wrong but it was fhe same sequence that worked before so I think its something with the lift and interlock thing. I really just want to get rid of the whole interlocking sytem because I have seen so many posts about if one little sensor is off then it won't release. Does yours have the lift too?

[BamaBus]

Originally Posted by Btb27

Mine had a sequence like that! When the brakes weren't releasing I thought maybe I got it wrong but it was fhe same sequence that worked before so I think its something with the lift and interlock thing. I really just want to get rid of the whole interlocking sytem because I have seen so many posts about if one little sensor is off then it won't release. Does yours have the lift too?

Yes, it has a lift. I don’t think the lift was an issue with mine since on the drive to its current location it was flopping around as if it were possessed. There was a car door-like switch, but the school system may have disabled it. That may be unlikely due to some liability issues. I can’t verify its system since I didn’t bring it home. It was not really what I intended to bid on, so I took it to a friend’s house, but that is another story.
I do know that it does not have the WABCO controller as caddilackid alluded to. That was why a picture of the brake reservoir is needed if you can’t get it to release. There was an additional step, but I assumed it was just for this particular bus. That was to slightly press the accelerator as I pushed in the release.
I did have an issue with it building air pressure. When the air tank pressure got below 60 psi the alarm would sound, and the brakes would not release. The compressor will need some work.
Since you did some “demo” can you post some pictures of what you did? It could a ground wire that is not making contact in a window sensor, roof hatch, etc.