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Old 05-14-2024, 01:40 AM   #1
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Apr 2024
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Drip Rails: Remove Rivets for Skinning?

Wife and I are getting close to making cuts for roof raise, so this part is a little further out, but, curious what people normally do here. There is a very dense row of solid rivets holding our side drip rails onto the bus above the windows. I'm assuming most people don't remove these and reattach with the skin panels behind them?

I ordered all the metal we need for skinning, but I got it wide enough that we could go underneath those rivets if we needed to (or just hide the remainder under the rub rails below). How have you all handled this portion? Hoping there's a water proof way of not taking those rivets out and attaching panels with them but maybe not.


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Old 05-14-2024, 09:20 AM   #2
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jun 2021
Location: Minnesota
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Year: 2003
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Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DT466e 215hp Allison 2500
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Hi!
You could just add an angle iron (about 14 gauge) to the top, and rivet to that, no need to cut those brow rivets if done this way. I did it a bit different, but the top angle is all you'll need to sheet over multiple windows...
Good luck!
John
Check out these pix:
https://www.skoolie.net/forums/f13/c...ows-41659.html
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Old 05-14-2024, 09:26 AM   #3
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Take a look at my build threadÖpost # 44

This is how i did what you are asking about!

https://www.skoolie.net/forums/f11/b...a-26674-3.html
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Old 05-14-2024, 01:18 PM   #4
Mini-Skoolie
 
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Got it, looks like you chose to remove and replace them with the sheets behind? Did you use an air hammer to do this? I have zero issue zipping them off from a work standpoint, it would only take me about an hour or so, but we are also working outside and though we don't have close neighbors, the bus being empty has turned into an awesome speaker and makes a ton of noise. I suppose we could drill them out to reduce that but that sounds miserable haha.
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Old 05-14-2024, 01:19 PM   #5
Mini-Skoolie
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Timeline View Post
Hi!
You could just add an angle iron (about 14 gauge) to the top, and rivet to that, no need to cut those brow rivets if done this way. I did it a bit different, but the top angle is all you'll need to sheet over multiple windows...
Good luck!
John
Check out these pix:
https://www.skoolie.net/forums/f13/c...ows-41659.html
You mean welded inside the window openings to provide support across the top? I could see this working, but what about the gap/seam? Lap sealer maybe?
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Old 05-14-2024, 01:21 PM   #6
Mini-Skoolie
 
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Posts: 21
Quote:
Originally Posted by Timeline View Post
Hi!
You could just add an angle iron (about 14 gauge) to the top, and rivet to that, no need to cut those brow rivets if done this way. I did it a bit different, but the top angle is all you'll need to sheet over multiple windows...
Good luck!
John
Check out these pix:
https://www.skoolie.net/forums/f13/c...ows-41659.html
Sorry I should have just read your thread that you linked before replying lol. I see what you did and used; sweet idea! Holding up well still?
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Old 05-14-2024, 01:57 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aerowenn View Post
Got it, looks like you chose to remove and replace them with the sheets behind? Did you use an air hammer to do this? I have zero issue zipping them off from a work standpoint, it would only take me about an hour or so, but we are also working outside and though we don't have close neighbors, the bus being empty has turned into an awesome speaker and makes a ton of noise. I suppose we could drill them out to reduce that but that sounds miserable haha.
I only had to remove the 3 rivets on the top drip rail. I used a chisel to make the space wider on the ribs, slid the sheet on up and secured.
I did put sealant up in the cavity first so that as I slid the sheet metal up into the drip rail I was assured that it would be sealed up good.

There is no need to remove all the rivets from the drip rail. I used an air chisel to remove the rivets.
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Old 05-14-2024, 06:53 PM   #8
Skoolie
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aerowenn View Post
Sorry I should have just read your thread that you linked before replying lol. I see what you did and used; sweet idea! Holding up well still?
Yeah its rhinoceros proof.
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Old 05-14-2024, 06:55 PM   #9
Skoolie
 
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Engine: DT466e 215hp Allison 2500
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ewo1 View Post
I only had to remove the 3 rivets on the top drip rail. I used a chisel to make the space wider on the ribs, slid the sheet on up and secured.
I did put sealant up in the cavity first so that as I slid the sheet metal up into the drip rail I was assured that it would be sealed up good.

There is no need to remove all the rivets from the drip rail. I used an air chisel to remove the rivets.

Lots of ways to successfully skin a ... bus!
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Old 05-14-2024, 11:36 PM   #10
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I'm cutting below my windows, and plan to lift the windows up with the roof raise, so I don't touch any of that structure. I also carry my window frames with me up, so no need to rebuild the window frames either. Saves on metal. Requres a cut under the window where the bumper bar is currently so I'll have to remove that but there's far less rivits for the bumper bar than at the top of the window. Same as yours.
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Old Today, 08:49 AM   #11
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Join Date: Mar 2024
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Year: 2003
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I removed all the drip rail rivets and slid the new panel under the drip rail. The replacement rivets went through the new panel. I used a thick scraper to help spread the gap for the new panel.
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