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Old 09-04-2019, 04:27 PM   #1
Bus Geek
musigenesis's Avatar
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 6,437
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: CE 300
Engine: DT466e
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
Dynatron-550 on top of primer or underneath?

I'm welding over the holes in my floor; 3/8" (like the chair bolt holes) or smaller I'm welding the hole shut directly, any larger and I'm cutting a rectangular opening and placing a slightly larger patch of 16ga over it and welding along the edges. I somehow managed to become marginally competent at this task today and my seams are watertight, but for piece of mind I want to cover the welds (on the inside and the underside of the bus) with Dynatron-550 (which I think is what it's for anyway).

The inside surface I am treating with Ospho (many applications are required), then washing thoroughly and painting with POR-15 (I did some experiments with this combo on rusted bits from the bottom of my bus and the POR-15 adheres phenomenally well). The underside I am just going to power wash, sand off the loose rust and paint with rustoleum rusty metal primer (and then maybe an enamel on top of that), although I am going to paint the fresh metal of the underside of the patches with SEM self-etching primer and then the same enamel as the rest of the underside.

Should I put the Dynatron-550 directly over the raw welds/seams and then apply these paints inside and outside, or is it better to paint and then apply the seam sealer? I don't care about appearance on either surface, I just want to make sure this is all watertight for some years to come.

Rusty 87 build thread
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Old 09-04-2019, 05:09 PM   #2
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Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,657
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
I'd paint or prime it first.
Wear A Mask- Stop the Spread!
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Old 09-04-2019, 05:45 PM   #3
Bus Nut
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Western Oregon
Posts: 876
Year: 1995
Coachwork: Blue-Bird
Chassis: TC RE 3408
Engine: 5.9 Cummins 12V Mechanical/Allison MT643
Rated Cap: Blue-Bird says 72 pass.
I don't weld, so I used epoxy glue, the slow-curing kind. I used Rustoleum primer for very rusty metal, and then put one coat of Rust-oleum gloss enamel, then I glued the primered patches in place after that.

The next day I ran beads of dynatron 570 [white] every where they ran beads of dynatron at the bluebird factory when they built my bus in the spring of 1995. Then, after letting it cure for 48 hours. I put one last coat of gloss black on everything, including the dynatron.

The paint that was on the dynatron was tacky to the touch for 10 or 11 days. But it turned out OK. I still haven't got the insulation down. I'm still prepping. When I ripped up the OEM plywood floor, I noticed that some of the plywood was painted white on the downside, and some was not painted. There was a very dramatic difference in the level of deterioration the painted panels showed when compared to the unpainted. I still have a piece I use it for laying on instead of lying in the leaves and dirt where the bus is parked. Most of the unpainted plywood was completely rotten.

So I am painting all the wood I am using in the floor. The plywood is getting painted with primer and topcoat on the down side, and I'm not sure about what I will do with the upside of the plywood. My foamular is 1.5 inches, and I'm putting 2X4s around the outside of the floor and along all the joints between plywood panels. Of course all the 2X4s are getting painted white too. I will use both Loctite PL 300 and PL 400, because the PL 400 for subfloors has a reaction with xps boards.
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