Emergency exit disconnections

[Beachvbguy]

So, I've searched here and Youtube and there's a couple of issues remaining, so I decided to post.
I have a 2004 Thomas Saf-T-Liner HDX.
The bus has/had two emergency windows (snip and tape up wire, all good, engine starts) and two emergency roof hatches (same process), and those are handled.
Two more alarms remain, the rear window, which is also an emergency exit, and the driver's side emergency door.
re: the door, I've read both that you can just disconnect the circuit on the lock that the door slides into, and that you have to trace and ground that wire at the circuit box.
I'd really like to know which it is, as I want my bus to be able to start, and I'm clearly not strong in electric circuits.

Re: the rear window, I have not been able to find any posts or videos that discuss this. I know that if I open it now, the alarm sounds when I turn the key and the bus won't start.

I'd really appreciate guidance on these last two remaining emergency exits.

Thanks.

[Truthseeker4449]

On my HDX I just had to disconnect the wires for side door and rear window. Treat them just has you have for the other exits and everything should be fine.

[Beachvbguy]

Well, to begin with the positive, the rear window worked fine. Cut and taped the wire and all good.

Not so fortunate with the side door. There are four wires coming up from the door; a red, a grey, and two yellows. One of the yellows heads to the back of the bus and disappears into a hole in the upper driver's side where the rear light harnesses are. The other three wires head for the front and end up part of the large bundle of wires going into a hole by the driver's seat, presumably ending at the two wiring panels.

When I disconnect any of the wires, the alarm sounds and the bus doesn't start.

[Truthseeker4449]

Originally Posted by Beachvbguy

Well, to begin with the positive, the rear window worked fine. Cut and taped the wire and all good.

Not so fortunate with the side door. There are four wires coming up from the door; a red, a grey, and two yellows. One of the yellows heads to the back of the bus and disappears into a hole in the upper driver's side where the rear light harnesses are. The other three wires head for the front and end up part of the large bundle of wires going into a hole by the driver's seat, presumably ending at the two wiring panels.

When I disconnect any of the wires, the alarm sounds and the bus doesn't start.

Okay, that's interesting. Do you have a multimeter? Do all of these wires all lead into the same switch? I presume the switch is normally depressed, and if disconnecting all the wires leads to a no start, it is most likely a normally closed switch (power flows through the switch with the door shut).

[Meathead]

Your bus should start from the rear button, right? The rear start button goes almost directly to the starter. This makes it easy for mechanics to work in back wo having to go close up everything. You have to hold down the switch in the top right corner of your engine door and hit the start button at the same time.

So, then run a wire from your keyswitch to the button in the back. You have now bypassed all of the start relays.
You can rip out all the door/window wires you want.
And pull those pesky buzzers[emoji38]

Myself and several others have done this and it works.

Let us know how it goes.

Dave

[JackE]

Originally Posted by Meathead

Your bus should start from the rear button, right? The rear start button goes almost directly to the starter. This makes it easy for mechanics to work in back wo having to go close up everything. You have to hold down the switch in the top right corner of your engine door and hit the start button at the same time.

That is a nice feature! The rear start button in my Blue Bird still didn't work when I was chasing the illusive safety wire problem. I finally found the right relay in the front to jump that bypasses the entire lockout system. I'm thinking of switching that jumper wire as an added measure of security to deter theft.