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Old 10-23-2005, 04:13 PM   #1
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Kansas
Posts: 37
Exhaust question

Hi, I'm thinking about running our exhaust to the rear of our bus. It currently dumps behind the driver in the middle of the bus which is fine when you're traveling, but when we're stopped and tailgating, those fumes can build up in the bus if the engine is running.

The obvious solution is to not run it while tailgating, but we need to utilize the heat from the engine for some games.

So my questions are:
1. About how much would it cost?
2. Would it rob power from out 350 gasser?

Thanks!

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66 Chevy Skoolie
Used for Tailgating to Kansas State University football games!
The seats are out (except for two facing each other) and replaced with matching couches.
7000 watt generator powering 2 6500 btu A/C's
Rebuilt 350 puts the power down.
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Old 10-23-2005, 06:44 PM   #2
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 36
Running the exhaust out the rear won't hurt you powerwise, so long as you don't put any restrictive bends in the pipe. However, I'd recommend installing a Webasto fuel fired heater and use it instead of idling your engine. They'll use alot less fuel, and will pay back quickly with as high as fuel prices are.
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Old 10-23-2005, 06:55 PM   #3
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Kansas
Posts: 37
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wolfman
Running the exhaust out the rear won't hurt you powerwise, so long as you don't put any restrictive bends in the pipe. However, I'd recommend installing a Webasto fuel fired heater and use it instead of idling your engine. They'll use alot less fuel, and will pay back quickly with as high as fuel prices are.
What is that? And how much does it cost?
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66 Chevy Skoolie
Used for Tailgating to Kansas State University football games!
The seats are out (except for two facing each other) and replaced with matching couches.
7000 watt generator powering 2 6500 btu A/C's
Rebuilt 350 puts the power down.
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Old 10-23-2005, 07:02 PM   #4
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 36
I don't have a price handy, but here's what I'm talking about: http://www.webasto.us/am/en/am_busses_heaters_2780.html
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1994 Safari Sarengeti Edition 37' diesel pusher
1997 Ford F150
1998 Jeep Cherokee SE 4x4 (toad)
2006 Chevy Aveo LS
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Old 10-23-2005, 07:45 PM   #5
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Kansas
Posts: 37
Interesting. So does this thing work pretty darn good? We'll probably see some sub-zero games and the bus is pretty large. Add people coming and going throught the side door and I have some big heating needs. We need to be able to run all six heaters (front left top and bottom, front right top and bottom, and rear) at once.

Thanks for your help!
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66 Chevy Skoolie
Used for Tailgating to Kansas State University football games!
The seats are out (except for two facing each other) and replaced with matching couches.
7000 watt generator powering 2 6500 btu A/C's
Rebuilt 350 puts the power down.
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Old 10-23-2005, 08:20 PM   #6
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 36
Quote:
Originally Posted by 66ChevyTailgater
Interesting. So does this thing work pretty darn good? We'll probably see some sub-zero games and the bus is pretty large. Add people coming and going throught the side door and I have some big heating needs. We need to be able to run all six heaters (front left top and bottom, front right top and bottom, and rear) at once.

Thanks for your help!
You'll have to look at the specs for that info. These are something that I'll be looking at installing in mine when the time comes. However, at 35,000 BTU, that's some serious heating capacity out of one heater.
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Old 10-23-2005, 10:54 PM   #7
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Idaho
Posts: 448
First of all the exhause should be exiting out the back of the bus. All buses from the factory have to exit out the back or the side just near the back. If there is a leak in the body CO can get in and posion everybody in the bus. I would fix that quickly. If money is an issue you can use electrical condiut for the pipe.

I also plan to use a Webasto heater. They are not cheap though. Sometimes you can find a used one for under $600. If you have some property you can always buy a bus from auction that has one and remove the Webasto then resell the bus. You will also need to install a diesel tank for the Webasto since they run on diesel. Check Ebay because they sometimes have a Webasto or Proheat unit.
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Old 10-24-2005, 03:11 PM   #8
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Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: near flint michigan
Posts: 2,657
If you like fiddling with things, cheaper option than the webasto is to use a small fuel oil boiler from a house. These can be had for nearly free from people who are "upgrading" to forced air heat, or a newer more efficient boiler.

I found two of them for free so far and with them was able to create one useable unit. The burners are dirt simple, and parts are cheap.

The biggest disadvantages are size and weight, but neither should be much of an issue in a full size skoolie. You can easily heat the inside of your skoolie with a boiler, and as an option, you can also heat the engine coolant.

It will require 110 volts.

One major advantage besides price, is the fact that it runs off of diesel fuel so you don't need any extra tanks......assuming your bus is also diesel.. Home heating oil/fuel oil is the same as diesel ful (without the road tax) It's much safer than propane.

I'm currently using a boiler to heat the water for my jacuzzi and the interior of my bus.
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Old 10-24-2005, 05:47 PM   #9
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Savage, MN
Posts: 472
Year: 1992
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: International
Engine: 7.3 diesel
Rated Cap: 14
two other coolant heaters are Espar and Proheat.

the company I'm with just got a proheat on the most recent shuttle bus and I have tried it out already. I turn it on and turn the ignition on to power the fans and right now with temps around 40 to 50 it does seem to do the job. We'll see when the temps get colder at how well that one does.

It is recommended to have extra batterys when running them as they do use battery power to run and the fans too use battery power. I think they recommend one battery for every 2 hours or so. Minimum of 2 is also recommended. I'd have to check on that to be sure.

Also price on the proheat, I thought it was around $3000 for the unit, but once again I'm not sure. I think If it where me I'd get a propane heater and put one of them in. But since you have the generator why not get 2 or 3 electric heaters and run them?
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