Filter replacement brands

[adic27]

After I cross referenced all the filters on the Wix website I checked the same Wix part number it gave me on the home depot website and on O'Reilly's site. O'Reilly's tells me that the WIX 24071 coolant filter and the Wix 51259 transmission Filter will not fit my vehicle. But it says the other 3 filters (air, oil, fuel) will fit. Home depot also says those 3 will fit but the other 2 that O'Reilly's said wouldn't fit didn't show up listed in a Google search for home depot or a search on home depots own site

Whats your thoughts on this. Don't wanna get the wrong filter. Hopefully its just that the others can't confirm like Wix??

[Booyah45828]

Well the 4071 clearly fits, because it's already on there, so it's safe to assume a 24071 would fit as well. Same deal with your transmission filter.

On prolink, for a 1998 3800 with a dt466, it spec's a 4206 and there is no spec for transmission filter. So, I would replace like with like.

I wouldn't think twice about using a 4071/24071. That filter was used on dt466 and the dt466e for ages. I don't know why they spec'd the taller 4206/24206 for this year and model, but I doubt you'll see an issue.

[adic27]

Also. Called a International place and gave my last 8 of the vin number and the guy gave me a fleetguard part number for the transmission filter. A cross reference that on the website and it gave me a whole different number then what I got when I answered the part number of the transmission filter that's currently installed. Should I just go with the part number I got from the Wix site using the part number I got from the international place?

So using the currently installed transmission filter part number on the wix site gave me wix 51259

Using the fleetguard part number on the wix site that I got from the International place gave me 51551

I'm assuming it boils down to the height of the filters but to be completely honest, I'm kinda lost lol

[adic27]

Originally Posted by Booyah45828

Well the 4071 clearly fits, because it's already on there, so it's safe to assume a 24071 would fit as well. Same deal with your transmission filter.

On prolink, for a 1998 3800 with a dt466, it spec's a 4206 and there is no spec for transmission filter. So, I would replace like with like.

I wouldn't think twice about using a 4071/24071. That filter was used on dt466 and the dt466e for ages. I don't know why they spec'd the taller 4206/24206 for this year and model, but I doubt you'll see an issue.

You make a good point. I'll go with the "like with like" approach. Don't see where I could go wrong

Thanks for all your help, Booysh!

[adic27]

Just to confirm the oil, fuel and air filter came back with the same wix part number whether I used the international guys number (fleetguard) or the number on the currently installed parts

[Booyah45828]

51259 comes back as a spin on transmission filter.

51551 comes back as a hydraulic filter.

Both do the same job.

Both are similar in diameter, gasket size, 10 micron rating, and have the same 1 inch - 12 thread.

51259 is 5.5" tall

51551 is 5.2" tall

Go with whatever you feel is best, they're the same filter as far as I'm concerned.

[Booyah45828]

I feel like you're overthinking this.

The filters on the bus now work and aren't causing issues right? So the same numbers will work as replacements. The filters that are called out by international will work as well, or they wouldn't have them listed as compatible.

Go with whatever you feel like going with. The filters on it now were probably used because they were what the district had on the shelf for using with all the other buses in the fleet. Go with the cheaper option if you're presented with one, but any of the filters you've listed, aside from the oil filter for the t444e, should work on your bus.

[Johnny Mullet]

How about you make your next post with your filters and numbers that are CURRENTLY on the bus. Post your current oil filter name and number. Post your current fuel filter numbers and brand. Water, air, and transmission filter too.

I can cross reference any filter number and get you the info you need. You can also post the year, make, and model including engine and we can possibly do it that way.

[adic27]

Originally Posted by Booyah45828

I feel like you're overthinking this.

The filters on the bus now work and aren't causing issues right? So the same numbers will work as replacements. The filters that are called out by international will work as well, or they wouldn't have them listed as compatible.

Go with whatever you feel like going with. The filters on it now were probably used because they were what the district had on the shelf for using with all the other buses in the fleet. Go with the cheaper option if you're presented with one, but any of the filters you've listed, aside from the oil filter for the t444e, should work on your bus.

You're right, I was over thinking it but that's natural for me when brand new to something. Don'twanna make a mistakeon somethinglikethis. Made the purchase for everything. Really appreciate all your help

Thanks

[adic27]

Originally Posted by Johnny Mullet

How about you make your next post with your filters and numbers that are CURRENTLY on the bus. Post your current oil filter name and number. Post your current fuel filter numbers and brand. Water, air, and transmission filter too.

I can cross reference any filter number and get you the info you need. You can also post the year, make, and model including engine and we can possibly do it that way.

Thanks for that but I already crossed everything on the Wix website and purchased everything. However, when I get a chance I would like to post the currently installed part numbers to see if you get the same numbers as me when crossing them. Just curious but if you don't want to or have the time it's no big deal

[incubus]

Amen Brother, Fram is junk

[adic27]

Originally Posted by Booyah45828

Where they differ is height and whether or not they come pre-charged with sca's. The 24206 and 4071 both come with sca's, whereas the 4070 doesn't. The coolant you're using determines whether or not you need sca's in the filter. Technically, you don't "need" them in the filter. But if you're using a coolant that requires sca's to be monitored, having them in the filter means they'll automatically be released as needed, reducing the amount of maintenance you'll have to perform.

Back again!

So, the coolant filter i purchase which is the Wix 24071 has something inside rattling around. Is that the additives or SCA'S you mentioned?

I was thinking of doing a coolant flush and fill. With me installing a brand new filter, is it as simply as adding the right coolant? That is of course after properly flushing it. I had a heater that I got rid of and looped the hose then turned the valves off under the hood, if that's irrelevant. Should I do an strip testing before or after the flush and fill? Should I add anything while flushing it? I was going to use some?

At one point when trying to get the bus home from where I purchased it I added some prestone concentrate antifreeze/coolant. I don't see that brand on Amazon so could I use this instead?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CNJ6JG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_Th90Fb81135BP

Thanks

[Booyah45828]

Originally Posted by adic27

Back again!

So, the coolant filter i purchase which is the Wix 24071 has something inside rattling around. Is that the additives or SCA'S you mentioned?

Yup, Read this https://www.fleetfilter.com/filter/A...t-Filters.html.

It's essentially pelletized sca's, whereas most sca's are offered in liquid form.

Originally Posted by adic27

I was thinking of doing a coolant flush and fill. With me installing a brand new filter, is it as simply as adding the right coolant? That is of course after properly flushing it. I had a heater that I got rid of and looped the hose then turned the valves off under the hood, if that's irrelevant. Should I do an strip testing before or after the flush and fill? Should I add anything while flushing it? I was going to use some?

At one point when trying to get the bus home from where I purchased it I added some prestone concentrate antifreeze/coolant. I don't see that brand on Amazon so could I use this instead?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CNJ6JG..._Th90Fb81135BP

Thanks

A flush isn't a bad idea.

If the system is clean, you can do a more simple drain and then refill with your coolant. If it's not, there are numerous flushes you can use to clean the system, depending on what contaminant it is.

That zerex brand stuff is fine, just make sure you get enough of it. It's no fun running around town after everybody is closed hoping to find the right stuff at a walmart because you ran out.

Have your heater valves open when you do this, otherwise you'll trap old coolant and air in the process. Run the engine at around 1500 rpm to purge air bubbles from the heater/system, and if you have one, have the heater booster pump on. If you can borrow a cooling system refiller, I'd highly recommend it. It makes purging the air and filling the system a lot easier.

Once the air is out, coolant level is stable, and the engine has been run up to operating temp for a bit, you can then test it with a strip. Then, if needed, add a bottle(s) of SCA's to bring the additive ppm up to correct level. Run the bus for a bit again to mix the coolant, and retest.

[adic27]

Originally Posted by Booyah45828

That zerex brand stuff is fine, just make sure you get enough of it.

Would you consider the color of Prestone antifreeze/coolant concentrate to be yellow or green? Do people refer to it as yellow instead of green or is there 2 different colors? Maybe they are referring to the color of the jug?

Also, I called an international trucks place and a parts guy told me I should use red coolant. He mentioned ES compliant. But he also sounded like he was saying i could go either way and it wouldn't hurt. I'm pretty much set on getting the green prestone concentrate from home depot and being done with it. Whats your thoughts?

[Booyah45828]

Without a jug in my hand or a link to the specific product, I couldn't tell you for sure.

The color really isn't what's important, it's the additive package, which can sometimes be indicated by color. The important thing is that you either get a conventional, or an extended life coolant, and the use only that.

The es compliant is the extended life coolant. It is "maintenance free", which is why they push it. It's also more expensive.

Your engine is 20+ years old, it really won't matter which coolant you use so long as the additive package is correct for the coolant being used. Regular green with sca's is fine, or an extended life coolant will also work. So flush out what you have, start with a clean system, put in your desired coolant, check the freeze point and the additive level if it's required, and on to the next hurdle.

[adic27]

Ok, I hear ya. Thanks. You seem to be pretty knowledgeable on this stuff. If it were you what route would you go as far as green/conventional vs extend life?

This is what I was referring to. The typical stuff I'm used to seeing

https://www.homedepot.com/s/antifreeze concentrate?searchtype=text&NCNI-5

[Booyah45828]

There are boat loads of different antifreezes and additive packages. Some work well, others don't. Some can mix, others won't. In the shop, if it is an older engine that doesn't have an egr cooler, we use conventional green. If it has an egr cooler, it gets final charge. Green is what I have in my bus. It's what it came with and does the job. It takes very little to check the additive level with strips every service.

This is the regular green I'm talking about. https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NAF1...wordInput=1gal. And what I would fill yours up with after a flush.

Here are the additives we use. https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/FIL4...Input=napakool. This is used to bring the sca's on the strip up to the correct level.

And here are the test strips. https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/FIL4...dInput=fil4106 That's a container of 50, they should be able to get you some in a smaller quantity.

All makes all models on any antifreeze indicates an elc type coolant, which may or may not have sca's. Not a huge deal on a gas engine, but being a diesel and especially with having cylinder liners, the sca's are what you want/need. If you don't have sca's, you need a specific additive package in place of them. Not every coolant made has an additive package that is good for liners and cavitation. They might say that it does on the jug, but you'll be left high and dry if/when it fails.

FYI - If I'm topping off a system, and I can't identify what coolant is present, it gets final charge.

[adic27]

Gonna try and tackle this in the morning and get over with already. Few quick questions..

1. I got some of the green stuff from a Napa store since I was close to one on the way to work. I only got 2 gallons. If I need more could a similar brand be used. I remember you said get enough but wasn't thinking at the time I purchased

2. The arrow in the picture when you said..

Originally Posted by Booyah45828

Green is the petcock or radiator drain.

Is the right/only place to drain/flush the coolant right? And the reservoir is where I pour my distilled water for to flush? I've read of people mentioning heater hoses or something. I ask this because you said if you wanted to top off and wasn't sure of what was already in you would use final charge. I'm assuming the same approach will be fine in my case? I only got 2 gallons because I assume the capacity is four. I might be fine


3. When you said run the engine at 1500 rpms, for how long, and that doesn't have to be driving right?

4. Remember I have the filter with the pelletized sca's in it? Am I still likely to have to add additional additives?

I had already purchased some Wix strips off Amazon. Just gotta research how to use them correctly

Thanks

[Booyah45828]

1. 2 gallons won't be enough. With 2 gallons, you have 4 gallons of coolant, and your cooling system will have a capacity of more then that.

2. On a 466, there should be a plug on the block, but it's just as easy to fill and drain the radiator with water a few times. The reservoir is where you pour it in. Top off with green coolant, after you flush all of the old out, you'll then know what is in the system, and can top it off with the correct coolant, no need to use final charge.

I'd use a garden hose to flush if you can, so long as the water from the hose is decent. You'll go though quite a bit of distilled water otherwise. It's also easier to flush the heater loop with a hose vs a jug and funnel.

3. 1500 rpm is to spin the water pump faster to get the air out of the heater loop. 1500 is essentially high idle. If you have a high idle switch, you can activate that instead. Run it at high idle until the thermostat opens and the engine is at operating temperature.

4. Possibly, it all depends on what the strip says and what amount of sca's are included in the coolant to begin with. Napa has green antifreeze that does and does not come precharged.

There should be instructions on the package of strips for how to use them.

[adic27]

I was draining the old coolant out and decided I'd check the thermostat. It looks like it needs replacing, along with the upper hose. Would you agree? I'm also gonna use a couple bottles of Prestone 2 in 1 flush