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05-27-2018, 04:34 PM
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#1
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Vashon, Washington
Posts: 57
Year: 2003
Coachwork: BlueBird / Microbird
Chassis: Chevy 3500
Engine: Chevy Vortec 6.0 gas
Rated Cap: 30
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Floor insulation
Ready to lay flooring insulation.
I’ve been told—given the very very good condition of the metal sheeting—that I don’t ‘need’ to paint it first. But it’s a shortie and we’re only talking ~15 feet, so I want to paint it. Rustoleum, yes?
Now, the rigid insulation: should it be polyiso R-max or the pink / blue stuff (xps?).
Please give your reasoning; I’ve read so many conflicting “use THIS” responses.
Also (if it matters) I am NOT framing the floor, though I will sheet over the foam with plywood.
Thanks!
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05-27-2018, 04:49 PM
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#2
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,481
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
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No matter the condition, painting the floor is preventive maintenance, Rustoleum is what a lot use. IMHO, I doubt you would see much performance difference between the foam boards.
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05-27-2018, 04:58 PM
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#3
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Vashon, Washington
Posts: 57
Year: 2003
Coachwork: BlueBird / Microbird
Chassis: Chevy 3500
Engine: Chevy Vortec 6.0 gas
Rated Cap: 30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o1marc
No matter the condition, painting the floor is preventive maintenance, Rustoleum is what a lot use. IMHO, I doubt you would see much performance difference between the foam boards.
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Yes, I thought preventative was a swell idea.
Thanks for taking time to respond.
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05-27-2018, 06:06 PM
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#4
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Vashon, Washington
Posts: 57
Year: 2003
Coachwork: BlueBird / Microbird
Chassis: Chevy 3500
Engine: Chevy Vortec 6.0 gas
Rated Cap: 30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o1marc
No matter the condition, painting the floor is preventive maintenance, Rustoleum is what a lot use. IMHO, I doubt you would see much performance difference between the foam boards.
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Yes, I thought preventative was a swell idea.
Thanks for taking time to respond.
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05-27-2018, 06:17 PM
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#5
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Wisconsin N.E.
Posts: 412
Year: 2000
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Thomas
Engine: 5.9
Rated Cap: 72
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The difference in polyiso and xps from what I've been reading, is only in cold so if you plan on staying out of harsh cold you shouldn't see a difference
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05-27-2018, 06:27 PM
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#6
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Vashon, Washington
Posts: 57
Year: 2003
Coachwork: BlueBird / Microbird
Chassis: Chevy 3500
Engine: Chevy Vortec 6.0 gas
Rated Cap: 30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Whatthefak
The difference in polyiso and xps from what I've been reading, is only in cold so if you plan on staying out of harsh cold you shouldn't see a difference
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I’d like to be prepared for any situation 👍
I think I’ll go with the XP’s on the floor.
If I’ve researched enough, am I correct that I won’t need a vapor barrier underneath either the foam or plywood?
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05-27-2018, 06:53 PM
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#7
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,481
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Whatthefak
The difference in polyiso and xps from what I've been reading, is only in cold so if you plan on staying out of harsh cold you shouldn't see a difference
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And just how significant is that difference?
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05-27-2018, 07:19 PM
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#8
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Wisconsin N.E.
Posts: 412
Year: 2000
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Thomas
Engine: 5.9
Rated Cap: 72
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From what I've read it's not huge, the bigger difference is in the foaming gas from brand to brand and how fast they off gas and lose R value
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05-27-2018, 09:16 PM
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#9
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: pa
Posts: 2,442
Year: 98
Coachwork: 1. Corbeil & 2. Thomas
Chassis: 1 ford 1998 e350 4x4 7.3 2 mercedes 2004
Engine: 7.3 powerstroke & MBE906
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There is a no doubt biased article from owens corning. Search polyiso versus xps.
Xps absorbs more water if exposed and at 15f the r value drops from 5 to 2 . . so for the floor I would stay away from xps.
Later j
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05-27-2018, 10:20 PM
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#10
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Wisconsin N.E.
Posts: 412
Year: 2000
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Thomas
Engine: 5.9
Rated Cap: 72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joeblack5
There is a no doubt biased article from owens corning. Search polyiso versus xps.
Xps absorbs more water if exposed and at 15f the r value drops from 5 to 2 . . so for the floor I would stay away from xps.
Later j
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I've read alot on it from different sources. The gist of what I got is there are people in the industry pushing for better real life measure of R value because of the life span of foaming gases, some have larger molecules and permiate the foam cell wall more slowly and the gases have better insulation property than air.
By the numbers alone xps looks better and does perform better in heat, but the cheaper pink board seems to be longer lived and performs the same in heat and cold, but at a slightly lower R rating
I'm not an expert, that's just what I got from researching because I live in Wisconsin and don't want to be cold.
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05-27-2018, 10:31 PM
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#11
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Vashon, Washington
Posts: 57
Year: 2003
Coachwork: BlueBird / Microbird
Chassis: Chevy 3500
Engine: Chevy Vortec 6.0 gas
Rated Cap: 30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Whatthefak
I've read alot on it from different sources. The gist of what I got is there are people in the industry pushing for better real life measure of R value because of the life span of foaming gases, some have larger molecules and permiate the foam cell wall more slowly and the gases have better insulation property than air.
By the numbers alone xps looks better and does perform better in heat, but the cheaper pink board seems to be longer lived and performs the same in heat and cold, but at a slightly lower R rating
I'm not an expert, that's just what I got from researching because I live in Wisconsin and don't want to be cold.
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The pink Owens Corning IS xps.
And now I’m utterly confused.
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05-27-2018, 10:36 PM
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#12
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,481
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Whywalk
The pink Owens Corning IS xps.
And now I’m utterly confused.
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Some, not all.
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05-27-2018, 11:21 PM
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#13
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Wisconsin N.E.
Posts: 412
Year: 2000
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Thomas
Engine: 5.9
Rated Cap: 72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Whywalk
The pink Owens Corning IS xps.
And now I’m utterly confused.
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Sorry was referring to EPS
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05-27-2018, 11:26 PM
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#14
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,674
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Whywalk
I’d like to be prepared for any situation 👍
I think I’ll go with the XP’s on the floor.
If I’ve researched enough, am I correct that I won’t need a vapor barrier underneath either the foam or plywood?
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XPS and marine ply is what my shorty's getting.
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05-27-2018, 11:34 PM
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#15
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Wisconsin N.E.
Posts: 412
Year: 2000
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Thomas
Engine: 5.9
Rated Cap: 72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EastCoastCB
XPS and marine ply is what my shorty's getting.
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But you sir live in the warm sun, I get -30 some times.
Good call on the marine ply
Not sure how I'm going yet
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05-27-2018, 11:41 PM
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#16
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,674
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Whatthefak
But you sir live in the warm sun, I get -30 some times.
Good call on the marine ply
Not sure how I'm going yet
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Yeah, but I know folks with less of NO insulation living in buses much farther north than me. And mine is just a cruiser/daily driver/weekend warrior.
Well-once I get around to fixing it.
-30 in a bus would have me driving south asap!
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05-28-2018, 07:39 AM
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#17
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Skoolie
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Pasadena Tx
Posts: 150
Coachwork: 1991 bluebird
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On the subject of the insulation, i would recommend a radiant barrier. Radiant barriers are, in my experience, make a world of a difference. For your plywood, find someone local that carries a product called "advantech". Comparable to 5/8" plywood, but denser, and completely waterproof. Mind you, you have to use the 5/8" and not the 3/4". The 5/8 is a sheeting and has a resin impregnated completely through it. It's also tongue and groove. The 3/4 only has the resin on the edges. You'll also find that the sound deadening properties of this are quite well.
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05-28-2018, 12:23 PM
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#18
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: GA
Posts: 611
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Amtran RE
Chassis: International 3000
Engine: T444e 7.3L
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Here in Alaska, I can get regular 3/4" plywood for $50/sheet, marine ply for $100, and I can't find Advantech. The floor needs around 9 sheets. $900 versus $450 is a big difference. How important is it in your opinion?
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05-28-2018, 02:42 PM
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#19
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
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Never saw a Skoolie that didn't have a leak somewhere or get the floor wet from something.
Also never saw regular plywood survive getting wet very well.
Since it will be the "foundation" for everything inside...well...
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05-28-2018, 03:31 PM
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#20
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Athens, TN
Posts: 1,572
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Amtran
Chassis: International RE
Engine: International T444e
Rated Cap: 76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Whywalk
Ready to lay flooring insulation.
I’ve been told—given the very very good condition of the metal sheeting—that I don’t ‘need’ to paint it first.
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I have a 38' rear-engine. I ripped up the floor then used a wire cup brush to blow off any and all rust, I then primed with Rustoleum rust converter and put two coats of Rustoleum gloss white down. It took a couple hours at best (minus wait times) and its BULLETPROOF- I'll sleep better at night knowing I did it.
I had my tarps fly off in the middle of the night a few times on me when it rained- had pools of water in the corners. Didn't matter- I painted every bare metal surface I could reach and I don't worry about it. I've made drain holes for any place that pockets up water so it can get out when it needs to.
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