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10-12-2008, 06:54 PM
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#1
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 36
Year: 1988
Coachwork: Bluebird
Engine: 454
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Floor question
OK, I read another poster's question about the rubber, and I think we will be leaving our rubber in. I am, however, thinking of laying down 3/4 inch plywood on top of the rubber, with linoleum and/or carpets on top of that. One reason is simple: I don't want to have to crawl under the bus everytime I have to fasten something down. While I know I will need to go through with the seats and seatbelts, it seems like it would be easier to anchor cabinets and certain fixtures to the 3/4 inch subfloor. Plus, wood is a decent insulator, so it would add that as well.
My question, then: Is this sound reasoning or am I all wet? I'd hate to have to spend the money only to have to rip things out because I flubbed up. I appreciate any advice on this.
Also, I believe I read somewhere that the RV hookups need to be on the driver's side. Is this the normal setup?
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10-12-2008, 09:30 PM
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#2
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: near flint michigan
Posts: 2,657
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Re: Floor question
i left the rubber floor in all of my buses. They also had 3/4 marine grade plywood under the rubber from the factory. I really like to fasten things down with self drilling tek screws. A couple of those babies through the floor or walls and your all set!
puttign 3/4 over top of the rubber sounds like a fine idea to me. can't think of a good reason not to do it.
__________________
Quis custodiet ipsos custodes (who will watch the watchmen?)
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10-12-2008, 09:47 PM
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#3
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Clearlake, Northern California
Posts: 2,505
Year: 1992
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: TC-2000 Frt Eng, Tranny:MT643
Engine: 5,9 Cummins
Rated Cap: 84
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Re: Floor question
Correct -- the waste outlet is standardized on the left side. Hecka lot easier to drain it into the dump stations when you don't have to pick up the bus and turn it backwards first.
And I believe water and electricity hookups are also on the left, but I'll let someone who has used RV park hookups confirm this.
As was mentioned, a 1/4 inch "self drilling" screw will get a great bite in the steel floor, no matter how weak the plywood may be. I drill a 3/16 hole first, to make it easy.
__________________
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10-13-2008, 11:39 AM
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#4
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Savage, MN
Posts: 472
Year: 1992
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: International
Engine: 7.3 diesel
Rated Cap: 14
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Re: Floor question
They do put almost all of them on the left side near the rear. Some rv owners have complained about hookups being on the wrong side. Those are the ones that have them every other one water electric water electric. I have seen a few trailers were thy put the electric plug at the rear end and not on the side.
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10-13-2008, 12:08 PM
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#5
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Skoolie
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Regina, Saskatchewan, Canada
Posts: 130
Year: 1989
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: 3800
Engine: 7.3 International Diesel
Rated Cap: 72
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Re: Floor question
I ripped up all my rubber up and then install 5/8 ply with pex for radiant floor heat in grooves I left then put 3/8 over all that yet but if I werent doing the in floor heat I might leave the rubber in. Its not all that much work though! A couple of hours and it was out. Hook ups definately on the drivers side up here in Canada anyway.
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10-13-2008, 10:04 PM
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#6
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Skoolie
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Buffalo, New York
Posts: 191
Year: 1995
Coachwork: Bluebird, Model 3800
Chassis: International
Engine: T444E
Rated Cap: 42
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Re: Floor question
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lady Franklin
I ripped up all my rubber up and then install 5/8 ply with pex for radiant floor heat in grooves I left then put 3/8 over all that yet but if I werent doing the in floor heat I might leave the rubber in. Its not all that much work though! A couple of hours and it was out. Hook ups definately on the drivers side up here in Canada anyway.
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Say ... What are you thinking about using for heating for the radiant heating? I've been thinking about tying some into the coolant lines, but I'll need something for when the bus isn't running.
Anyhow, our plan is to rip up the rubber and wood (especially since pulling up some of the seat bolts yielded water that, when dried, left salt deposits), then putting down 3/4" planks and some rigid pink insulation. We're debating 1/2" radiant tubing in this 3/4" space, then some 1/2"-3/4" oak or maple tongue-and-groove over most of it. I expect the bathroom area will be tiled over some 1/2" plywood or cementboard.
Now, my question to add to this:
When ripping up the floor, do you all plan to do so all the way up to and including the driver's seat?
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10-13-2008, 11:34 PM
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#7
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Saint James, MN
Posts: 2,669
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Re: Floor question
I ripped up my floor. There was plenty of nastiness under that rubber. Everything seemed solid, but there was mold and mildew on the underlying wood, some slight rust on the steel floor in places, and that smell of rubber. I ended up doing furring strips and insulation. I would strongly suggest that you at least pull up a small amount of the rubber and check it out. Sure, most of my wood was good, but the areas along the central aisle and the edges where water had a path through were pretty ugly.
I ripped my floor out up until a convenient break in the boards directly behind the drivers seat. This gives me a bit of an entryway for dirty/wet shoes. Nevertheless, my carpet is pretty well trashed.
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10-31-2008, 11:38 AM
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#8
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Skoolie
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Regina, Saskatchewan, Canada
Posts: 130
Year: 1989
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: 3800
Engine: 7.3 International Diesel
Rated Cap: 72
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Re: Floor question
Quote:
Hex said
Say ... What are you thinking about using for heating for the radiant heating? I've been thinking about tying some into the coolant lines, but I'll need something for when the bus isn't running.
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Hey sorry for taking so long to respond. I am seriously looking at Precision Temps "Twin Temp-2" After inquiring they said it would heat domestic water and radiant floor heat with electric and or propane. I have to find out a little more info before buying though. http://www.precisiontemp.com/pt_rvmd_twintemp2.html
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