Floor Replacement

[Stu & Filo. T]

The roof it's self is pretty light, movement we're talking about is springing out when the ribs are cut

[New2Skool]

Ok, I see.
I was picturing the entire roof flexing left and right along the length and the ribs widening as well as curling front to back. I had the whole 6 axis twist in my head.

I think, I would be safe lifting with the assisted alignment bolts and brackets and floor jacks.

If not, we were certainly hear about it here haha.
Thank you.

[Stu & Filo. T]

You should Still use something to keep it stable like tube and all thread
You don't want it getting away from you, far as lifting one person can push it up a couple inches while one person or two run the all thread

[Stu & Filo. T]

Originally Posted by EastCoastCB

DO you have any pics of that? Thanks!

Here ya go

[New2Skool]

Yes,
I fabricated round tubing to fit around 5/8ths 3' all thread.
I will weld it to four (two on each side, second rib from the front and rear) to help stabilize and prevent movement. As well as, help with some of the weight between incremental lifts.

Once it is lifted, I will weld 1x1 tubing in the rib channels with at least a foot above and below the cuts. I have sheet steel and I made a metal break to produce the thin sheet angles to mimic the surface area of the original ribs for riveting the new sheet steel onto the ribs.

Oh, another important aspect is that I am leaving the first section above the driver's seat and door alone. It will not be lifted and the second section between ribs will be removed prior to the lift. I will finish the lift and then add reinforcements from rib to rib over the exposed area and cover with sheet steel to give it a nice aerodynamic flow.

I personally don't care for the look of lifting a truck nose bus when, it is lifted complete from front to back. It looks very unnatural and appears to create horrible drag. So, I will give it a nice air diverter look.

Now, as far as the lift, I have the full length rain edge above the windows. I plan to remove the screws and attach the top of the new sheet steel to the area under the drip edge and down to the first horizontal exterior rib on the body. It gives me roughly a 16 inch lift.

Should I predrill the holes in the sheet metal bigger than normal to allow for expansion in different seasons (Northern Minnesota temp sways of 100 degrees)?

Thanks

[Stu & Filo. T]

Originally Posted by New2Skool

Yes,
I fabricated round tubing to fit around 5/8ths 3' all thread.
I will weld it to four (two on each side, second rib from the front and rear) to help stabilize and prevent movement. As well as, help with some of the weight between incremental lifts.

Once it is lifted, I will weld 1x1 tubing in the rib channels with at least a foot above and below the cuts. I have sheet steel and I made a metal break to produce the thin sheet angles to mimic the surface area of the original ribs for riveting the new sheet steel onto the ribs.

Oh, another important aspect is that I am leaving the first section above the driver's seat and door alone. It will not be lifted and the second section between ribs will be removed prior to the lift. I will finish the lift and then add reinforcements from rib to rib over the exposed area and cover with sheet steel to give it a nice aerodynamic flow.

I personally don't care for the look of lifting a truck nose bus when, it is lifted complete from front to back. It looks very unnatural and appears to create horrible drag. So, I will give it a nice air diverter look.

Now, as far as the lift, I have the full length rain edge above the windows. I plan to remove the screws and attach the top of the new sheet steel to the area under the drip edge and down to the first horizontal exterior rib on the body. It gives me roughly a 16 inch lift.

Should I predrill the holes in the sheet metal bigger than normal to allow for expansion in different seasons (Northern Minnesota temp sways of 100 degrees)?

Thanks

Thats pretty much what I did except my 1in tube butts up to the roof frame, mine has what I can best describe as a 2 in square tube Ibeem that runs the full length of the bus above the windows & then the tubes below the cuts go almost all the way to the floor.

One thing I'm sorry I did was I made the transition cap from lower to lifted portion out of fiberglass, If I could go back I would have had a metal shop make one for me.

[slaughridge85]

Originally Posted by New2Skool

While we are on the subject, I know Burlking has an international 3800 but, has anyone with a 3800 completed a lift?

If so, what should I expect for movement and flex in the roof?

I raised my 3800's roof 16". Not a huge lift, but there was absolutely not a single bit of flexing in my roof when it was cut free. I also used allthread to do my lift. Went up square and lined up pretty much perfect. But then again I have almost no rust on my bus at all so that could be why nothing sagged for flexed weird. Not sure if I got lucky or what. Pics in my build thread called "Somethin' Happened!"

[New2Skool]

Excellent!
Thank you, 16 is a good lift.
It is about as much as I want to do.
Thanks

[New2Skool]

Slaughridge,

Were the all thread bolts the only thing you used to do your lift?

[EastCoastCB]

Originally Posted by Stu & Filo. T

Here ya go

Thanks, and if you have ANY more, please post em up somewhere or PM them to me, I'm absorbing all I can before undertaking this now that summer is upon us.

[EastCoastCB]

Originally Posted by New2Skool

Excellent!
Thank you, 16 is a good lift.
It is about as much as I want to do.
Thanks

Yeah, 16 seems to be what several have ended up going with for a raise.
I'm thinking of going 16", too.

[New2Skool]

Today, I ripped apart an old RV Captain's Chair I found at the dump.
It had a lap belt and I want a three point.
So, I quickly welded on a shoulder reinforcement to mount the shoulder belt.

Imgur: The most awesome images on the Internet
Imgur: The most awesome images on the Internet

My horrible welding job survived the 3lb swing test.
That is where I give the weld a full wind up, swing and hit with a 3lb hammer.
It survived the hammer and required another hammer to return it to place.

I tested two rust removers today on untreated rusted areas.
The first is the area in the lower part of the picture.
It is a locktite naval jelly rust remover.
Please note the section between the wheels wells in the top of the picture.
I forgot to take a before picture but, that is the second area.

Imgur: The most awesome images on the Internet
Imgur: The most awesome images on the Internet

Now the second area was untreated rust as well.
I used CLR to see how it worked on the heaviest of rust.
These pictures are during and after.
I forgot to take a before picture but, the results are amazing.

Imgur: The most awesome images on the Internet
Imgur: The most awesome images on the Internet

Thanks to these two tests, I have decided upon a rust attack plan.
Wire Wheel grind the entire floor.
Clean as best as I can.
I bought a new shop vac since my previous bust into flames yesterday.
Then treat with CLR.
Remove CLR
Dry
Prime immediately within 24 hours of CLR removal.

Now, this is my plan but I am certainly open to advise.
Plus, we have time to formulate.
As the weather has not been ideal for painting or priming.
It hit 89 degrees two weeks ago and yesterday it was 28 degrees.

I forgot to mention yesterday, I was hit in the eye by a shard of metal while grinding.
I had on a hat, goggles, respirator, glasses and a hat.
Still a small piece made it through and struck my eye.
An hour later, I left the hospital in good working order and an odd keepsake.


So, what do you all think?

[EastCoastCB]

Originally Posted by New2Skool

Today, I ripped apart an old RV Captain's Chair I found at the dump.
It had a lap belt and I want a three point.
So, I quickly welded on a shoulder reinforcement to mount the shoulder belt.

Imgur: The most awesome images on the Internet
Imgur: The most awesome images on the Internet

My horrible welding job survived the 3lb swing test.
That is where I give the weld a full wind up, swing and hit with a 3lb hammer.
It survived the hammer and required another hammer to return it to place.

I tested two rust removers today on untreated rusted areas.
The first is the area in the lower part of the picture.
It is a locktite naval jelly rust remover.
Please note the section between the wheels wells in the top of the picture.
I forgot to take a before picture but, that is the second area.

Imgur: The most awesome images on the Internet
Imgur: The most awesome images on the Internet

Now the second area was untreated rust as well.
I used CLR to see how it worked on the heaviest of rust.
These pictures are during and after.
I forgot to take a before picture but, the results are amazing.

Imgur: The most awesome images on the Internet
Imgur: The most awesome images on the Internet

Thanks to these two tests, I have decided upon a rust attack plan.
Wire Wheel grind the entire floor.
Clean as best as I can.
I bought a new shop vac since my previous bust into flames yesterday.
Then treat with CLR.
Remove CLR
Dry
Prime immediately within 24 hours of CLR removal.

Now, this is my plan but I am certainly open to advise.
Plus, we have time to formulate.
As the weather has not been ideal for painting or priming.
It hit 89 degrees two weeks ago and yesterday it was 28 degrees.

I forgot to mention yesterday, I was hit in the eye by a shard of metal while grinding.
I had on a hat, goggles, respirator, glasses and a hat.
Still a small piece made it through and struck my eye.
An hour later, I left the hospital in good working order and an odd keepsake.


So, what do you all think?

Worked with metal most of my adult life and no matter the amount of eye protection something always seems to make it into the eye.
Did they have to drill it out or did it pull out?

[New2Skool]

Thankfully, the doc was able to pull it out and give me antibiotic drops for the next few days.

It was bad luck, when I first got my bus I ground the seat bolts and everything else without any protective gear.
Never had a problem then.
I use protections and boom incident.
Haha

[slaughridge85]

Originally Posted by New2Skool

Slaughridge,

Were the all thread bolts the only thing you used to do your lift?

Yep, the threaded bolts were passed through the guides which were positioned on either side of the cut, I put the bolts and washers and nuts on and then cut the window pillars from the outside. No extra bracing was used.

[EastCoastCB]

Originally Posted by slaughridge85

Yep, the threaded bolts were passed through the guides which were positioned on either side of the cut, I put the bolts and washers and nuts on and then cut the window pillars from the outside. No extra bracing was used.

Cool, sounds like how I may try it.
Mind if I Pm you a million questions in the next 4-6 weeks?

[New2Skool]

Update
Last night my eye became worse.
I went into the Optometrist this morning.
She found another piece in my eye.
She was able to pull some of it out but had to drill the remaining part.
Then she had to drill the rusted area out of my eye.
A very horrible experience considering the helplessness.
So, now I am blurred, burning and pained in my right eye.
I assume my visual will return to normal in a week or two.
However, that is a nerve wracking week or two.
So, yeah kind of a turn off to grinding.

Nevertheless, today I still did some work on the Bus.
I also contacted Navistar to inquire about buying a new bus directly from the manufacturing plant. A custom order, a blank canvas.
So, we will see what they say.
It would be amazing to buy a new bus without seats, sub flooring, lights, paint, windows or any of the typical removal aspects and to start with a bare metal shell.

If anyone has advise on this eye deal feel free to comment.
I will be glad to squint and try read it haha.

[EastCoastCB]

Originally Posted by New2Skool

Update
Last night my eye became worse.
I went into the Optometrist this morning.
She found another piece in my eye.
She was able to pull some of it out but had to drill the remaining part.
Then she had to drill the rusted area out of my eye.
A very horrible experience considering the helplessness.
So, now I am blurred, burning and pained in my right eye.
I assume my visual will return to normal in a week or two.
However, that is a nerve wracking week or two.
So, yeah kind of a turn off to grinding.

Nevertheless, today I still did some work on the Bus.
I also contacted Navistar to inquire about buying a new bus directly from the manufacturing plant. A custom order, a blank canvas.
So, we will see what they say.
It would be amazing to buy a new bus without seats, sub flooring, lights, paint, windows or any of the typical removal aspects and to start with a bare metal shell.

If anyone has advise on this eye deal feel free to comment.
I will be glad to squint and try read it haha.

Yeah, in my experience they almost always have to drill. Not pleasant!
Sorry to hear, man but way to go and stay proactive. gotta be careful with them eyes, man.
New bus? get the Dt530 if you can. and PLEASE get me one too. I'll love you forever, bro!

[New2Skool]

Haha If I could I would get you a bus East.
I noticed an article in the local paper today about the district ordering specialized buses for the schools.
They wanted to move away from Blue birds and go with the Dailmer buses.
The budget was 65,000-85,000 each and I thought that price must be far less without seats, sub flooring, windows, interior panels, insulation, heaters, flashers and paint.
I don't know about you but, I would buy a brand new blank bus for 35,000 or 40,000 bucks.

The worst part of this whole eye injury thing is the concern if it could impact my vision. I am unable to see clearly through the right eye and I have no idea if it will improve or return to my normal out of whack eye sight.

[EastCoastCB]

Originally Posted by New2Skool

Haha If I could I would get you a bus East.
I noticed an article in the local paper today about the district ordering specialized buses for the schools.
They wanted to move away from Blue birds and go with the Dailmer buses.
The budget was 65,000-85,000 each and I thought that price must be far less without seats, sub flooring, windows, interior panels, insulation, heaters, flashers and paint.
I don't know about you but, I would buy a brand new blank bus for 35,000 or 40,000 bucks.

The worst part of this whole eye injury thing is the concern if it could impact my vision. I am unable to see clearly through the right eye and I have no idea if it will improve or return to my normal out of whack eye sight.

I've seen lots of guys have it happen. I'm sure your vision will be fine!