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Old 01-22-2021, 04:38 PM   #1
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Floor: replacing corrugated with sheet metal

Our floor is corrugated, which I suspect was a fix for rusted flooring at some point (our bus comes from North Jersey). We are thinking of replacing it with sheet metal. Is this a good idea? Cold rolled vs. hot rolled? Gauge? (Thinking 16)
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Old 01-22-2021, 06:15 PM   #2
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Some buses have corrugated floors like that from the factory - yours looks like one of them. That rust looks pretty minor (especially for a Jersey bus!). Just scrape off any loose bits of rust and apply ospho, then prime and paint. Then build your new subfloor on top of that.

Rebuilding your floor with sheet metal would be a lot of extra work for no point. It would not be as simple as putting in sheet metal, as I think this type of bus relies on the extra strength of the corrugated sheet to span wider areas between framing members than is possible just with flat sheet. If you just replaced it with sheet, the floors would sag terribly (on a regular school bus with sheet steel floors, the supporting members are usually no more than 10" away from their neighbors).
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Old 01-22-2021, 06:18 PM   #3
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I would leave it like it is, the corrugated allowed ventilation under the plywood, also corrugated is much stronger. May be use galvanized corrugated to enhance the resistance. Assuming a reasonable gauge / strength of the existing corrugated I would put 2" insulation right on top of thecorrigated. It would likely compress 1/4' on the ribs.. Then 7/16 ply tongue and groove on top of that.
That is if you have enough headroom.


My 0.02


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Old 01-23-2021, 06:12 AM   #4
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But what about the rusted through parts?

Thanks for responses!

There are some sections that are completely rusted through. We thought about just cutting out squares and riveting new corrugated pieces on top. The rusted through parts are on the driverís side, so maybe just replace that strip with galvanized corrugated?

And no, we donít have enough headroom, so weíre planning a roof raise.
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Old 01-23-2021, 06:59 AM   #5
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Thanks for responses!

There are some sections that are completely rusted through. We thought about just cutting out squares and riveting new corrugated pieces on top. The rusted through parts are on the driverís side, so maybe just replace that strip with galvanized corrugated?

And no, we donít have enough headroom, so weíre planning a roof raise.
Yeah, just square up the rusted-out holes and patch with more corrugated. Galvanized is fine although non-galvanized is easier to paint. Your rust is the result of leaks (probably the windows) so if you stop the leaks you won't have to worry about further rust like this.

Riveting is OK, but you'd probably have an easier time using self-tapping sheet metal screws (no special gear required except a drill).
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Old 01-23-2021, 01:41 PM   #6
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hummm..

I would replace galvanized corrugated like what was there before.

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Old 01-23-2021, 03:06 PM   #7
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OK
i had a long post for this but it got dropped for whatever reason and probably me being computer stupid.
i have that exact same tin in my second bus and live in an AG community.
have several pieces of tin but nothing matches.
what i did and what others have the ability or money to do will decide?
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Old 01-23-2021, 03:11 PM   #8
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sorry for the OP.
that style of corrugated tin doesnt match anything you can run out and buy.
and i live in an AG community.
same tin in my 04 collins body.
rust wasnt that bad.
what i am doing and have done and what others can do i will not go there.
i have been welding for over 20 years,have access to a full sheetmetal shop and have been mechaniching since i could walk.
for the OP the or you getting rid of your road A/C,passenger air to delete those lines?
according to my wife i always overbuild. but
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Old 01-24-2021, 09:09 AM   #9
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i would agree, your plan sounds good. 16gauge would probably work but most floors are made up of sections bent into a c shape. which adds a lot of stiffness, so there may have to be some additional structure to create a sold floor that doesnt flex while walking on it.
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Old 01-24-2021, 01:15 PM   #10
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I would add in more cross members, and then put in insulation in the gaps, held up with either wood or thin metal. I was thinking of using the walls of old refrigerators, as they have thick polyiso foam and flat sheetmetal one side. I raised my roof, so no need for that, but if headroom is an issue.

The SIP idea is great, I happened to get some metal SIP panels that will go on top of my plywood. Again I raised the roof, but if floor height is an issue, elminate the thick plywood and go with the SIPs as the structural floor.
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Old 02-15-2021, 10:32 AM   #11
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Hi all. We just pulled up the old floors on our first skoolie this past weekend and were interested to find beautiful, completely rust free corrugated flooring. Now I don't need to bother with any rust (yay), but I do need to fill all the holes before I lay down foam board and ply overtop.

First question - does anyone have any great ideas for patching the holes in the floor from the seats when working with corrugated galvanized? We will have access to a welder. What have you all found great success in so far for just simple hole patches?

Next question - Will placing foam board straight over the top of corrugated metal cause issues in the future with uneven compressing of the foam board due to the peaks and troughs of the metal? Our original plan was to install a 1x2 perimeter along with 1x2 strapping up the middle for support. Foam board will be cut to size and wedged in between the wooden perimeter and strapping. Can't afford to lose much headroom here.
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Old 02-15-2021, 02:28 PM   #12
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Personally I think that their is no need to patch the holes..galvanized is unhealthy to weld.. it is already rust protected.. because it is corrugated you have some ventilation .

1-1/2" of foam will deform a bit on the top ridges , I would be fine with that. I think that a steel floor without ventilation is asking for problems. It is not if just when their will be moisture trapped in between these floors. From condensation or just a simple leak.. if it rusted through in 15 years then it will again.
I would drill 3/8 holes at beginning and end of each rib to help ventilation and help potential drainage.

Blue or pink foam is very strong and if you lat a 9/16 tongue and groove plywood on top it should be fine. If you want to go heavier fine to.

My 0.02

Good luck Johan
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Old 02-15-2021, 02:37 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by joeblack5 View Post
Personally I think that their is no need to patch the holes..galvanized is unhealthy to weld.. it is already rust protected.. because it is corrugated you have some ventilation .

1-1/2" of foam will deform a bit on the top ridges , I would be fine with that. I think that a steel floor without ventilation is asking for problems. It is not if just when their will be moisture trapped in between these floors. From condensation or just a simple leak.. if it rusted through in 15 years then it will again.
I would drill 3/8 holes at beginning and end of each rib to help ventilation and help potential drainage.

Blue or pink foam is very strong and if you lat a 9/16 tongue and groove plywood on top it should be fine. If you want to go heavier fine to.

My 0.02

Good luck Johan
Thanks for the feedback! I was curious if the corrugated floor could actually provide some sort of ventilation/inevitable moisture drainage. We live in a varied climate with cold, snowy winters and hot, dry summers so I'm battling the weather no matter the season. All around though I would say we live in a dry climate. I'm afraid that not plugging the holes in the floor will let all the nasty crap from winter roads up into my flooring. Am I just being paranoid?
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Old 02-15-2021, 05:47 PM   #14
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hi anonybus.
i am working with the exact same platform with my second bus.
have you pulled your original floor yet?
just asking about seat bolt holes suggest not?
my collins/midbus body was only held onto the chassis with u bolts through the corrugated metal to hold it all together and all of them on my 2004 needed to be resealed.
the seat holes are minimal compared to th wide open fuel tank filler neck access which needs to be and the rear refrigerant lines opening to the rear a/c unit and then i had several one inch holes for the wheel chair lift that was deleted before i got it and i wish it wasnt.
galvalume tin will last a long time and g30 metal will last even longer.
i have tried to match the flooring and have not found a match.
i weld for a living and it is to thin to weld much less spray galvanize inside and underside.
mine has an undercoat that looks fine so i covered that area with silicone around the holes and screwed flat sheetmetal down to cover and reinforce the flooring.
because the handi access is going to be my solar battery and maitenance area.
plug your holes with silicone and paint with rusty netal primer if it makes you happy and move on to the next step
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Old 02-15-2021, 05:56 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jolly Roger bus 223 View Post
hi anonybus.
i am working with the exact same platform with my second bus.
have you pulled your original floor yet?
just asking about seat bolt holes suggest not?
my collins/midbus body was only held onto the chassis with u bolts through the corrugated metal to hold it all together and all of them on my 2004 needed to be resealed.
the seat holes are minimal compared to th wide open fuel tank filler neck access which needs to be and the rear refrigerant lines opening to the rear a/c unit and then i had several one inch holes for the wheel chair lift that was deleted before i got it and i wish it wasnt.
galvalume tin will last a long time and g30 metal will last even longer.
i have tried to match the flooring and have not found a match.
i weld for a living and it is to thin to weld much less spray galvanize inside and underside.
mine has an undercoat that looks fine so i covered that area with silicone around the holes and screwed flat sheetmetal down to cover and reinforce the flooring.
because the handi access is going to be my solar battery and maitenance area.
plug your holes with silicone and paint with rusty netal primer if it makes you happy and move on to the next step

Thanks Jolly Roger! Yes the original floor has been pulled. I agree some sort of goop to fill the holes may be best. The only large hole I need to deal with is maybe 6 inches in diameter leading to some mysterious part of the undercarriage that I forgot to mention before. That'll get a good patch.

My floor is also held on with u bolts. Definitely wasn't expecting to see a bunch of corrugated metal under the original rubber and ply, but I was super pleased not to see one hint of rust under there
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Old 02-15-2021, 07:00 PM   #16
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find a local hvac contrator shop and ask for a 10x10 square of 16 guage or go prepared with your own snips to look in there dumpster and get what you want?
i do commercial/industrial piping but know the sheeet metal side for a living and question my office all the time of what gets wasted?
if there is something size specific anyone wants i can get the metal and work out shipping
if interested
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Old 02-15-2021, 07:15 PM   #17
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the only hole of the 6"x6" size in my little bus is around the fuel filler and overfill neck.
you can build over it but if something happens and youre mechanic dont want to deal with it or you dont wont to remove your cabinets to replace that piece of rubber hose?
i can look at it as a skoolie builder, a mechanic and commercial/industrial since 1996 skoolie since
dont matter
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Old 03-09-2021, 07:03 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by Jolly Roger bus 223 View Post
my collins/midbus body was only held onto the chassis with u bolts through the corrogated
plug your holes with silicone and paint with rusty netal primer if it makes you happy and move on to the next step
Iím glad I read this thread. We were just about to try to Bondo our corrugated floors in our Midbus. Iím gathering we should just use caulk and prime and leave it at that. We are using Rustoleum Rust Reformer, is there any real need to paint over that?
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